amaff

Are you running it unlocked, or in GMRS mode? If in GMRS mode, are you using 1 of the pre-programmed repeater channels? Also, Menu 6 is Step size, not repeater offset. Step size is, when you're in VFO mode, the smallest increment of frequency change when tuning or scanning. I will say that programming the DB20-G on the face is...pretty annoying. It's still a bit clunky but a heck of a lot easier with the programming software (EDIT: I forgot this radio's in Chirp now, which helps a lot)

Yep, same. For $125, I figured it was worth the experiment

Asked and answered in the same post https://www.antenna-theory.com/definitions/desense.php It's not usually a problem when the receiver and transmitter are on the same frequency, but on a repeater, where you're transmitting on 1 frequency and listening on another, the transmitter will 'deafen' the receiving radio if they're too close. I actually did similar testing today w/ a radio I'd just installed in a car in the garage, and my kid standing out by the street to let me know how I was coming through.

I finished tidying up all the wiring and snipped all the zip tie tails. I...made a bit of a mess

Yep, HF or linked repeaters are the only likely solutions, but that's all ham radio.

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say 'probably not'.

Nice, I like that for testing. I'd suggest borrowing one of your friends' GMR2+s for an afternoon so you're not trying to troubleshoot this on the trail. I'd be shocked if the KG1000 doesn't have a tone scan function. Worst case you can use that to figure out what's actually going on.

GTA... @nokones you wouldn't happen to know Butch Kummer would you? He runs in the South East so, maybe not, but that community isn't *that* large

I know there's at least a couple others here running GMRS radios in race / track cars. Whatcha running? Up until now I've been making do with a handheld based system in my car (with an external antenna). Nerdie racing car harness with Fuze molded ear plugs / buds, and a KG905-G on the door bar, but I've never been thrilled with it. It's performed fine (100% coverage at most tracks I run, 80%+ at worst), but it's something extra to manage and care for and the only decent mount I could find for it had it rotating around to where the screen wasn't visible (did I just bump the channel knob? uh oh...) and if I was lucky I would just be able to reach the volume knob to adjust it while belted in the car w/ a helmet and HANS. Always had to make sure it was turned off for the night, always had to make sure the battery was charged. Before: So I wanted a mobile radio solution. But most mobile radios obviously won't work with a K1 connector based car / headset harness. Cut to learning this weekend about the BTech UV25X2. Compact 20W radio, but has an adapter with a K1 connector to plug a headset in. It is technically a ham radio (actually, I don't know how they get away with it, the thing near as I can tell is WIDE OPEN, not just restricted to 2m / 70cm ham bands), so, caveat emptor and all that, know what you're doing when you're messing with it because it definitely WILL let you do things you maybe shouldn't be. Changed the power connector on the back over to a more weather resistant 2-pin deutsch connector. No I'm not using the cigarette socket in the car, this was just for testing on my desk. In the car it's wired to a switched bus-bar and battery ground in the car. Integrated the mounting bracket with my switch panel with a pair of rivnuts: I don't plan on running it at full power most of the time, but I tested with it to make sure everything works. Good SWR, and higher than the advertised 20W. (1.12 SWR @ 8.6W on Low power). I need to finish cleaning up the wiring and zip tying / wire-wrapping everything, but it's in and I got to test it out simplex with my son on an H/T, and also to a handful of local repeaters, both with the handset it comes with, and with the full helmet & earbuds setup. Seems to work great, good signal reports all round, we'll see how it holds up

Yeah that looks correct. I'd try putting another one in with the DCS tone just to try. I still don't know why it wouldn't be giving you the "I can't do that" tone on GMRS 18 tho.

Ah that makes more sense. Like I said, hard to read (at least, for me). Can you provide a screenshot of the configuration line in Chirp?

I think you have the problem backwards. @cjvespa's friends have GMR2+ handhelds, chvespa has got a KG1000

Another thing I just noticed. 18-10 is actually a preset channel in the GMR2+. I hadn't seen this when I scrolled through the manual earlier: Of course, it doesn't say if that means 10 on their CTS chart (94.8), or 10 on their DCS chart (65...N, I assume because it doesn't say otherwise). So maybe it would be beneficial to program 1 of each in the KG1000 and see which one actually works with their gear.

I'm having a hard time following what's going on with the programming info there. The way I read it, it looks like you've got both CTC and DTC tones programmed in? Which seems odd? But maybe I'm misreading it. This is the tone chart for the GMR2-Plus I THINK your table there shows that you're running 88.5. Tone 10 on the RR chart is 94.8. So I'd start there. That said, I don't know why you'd get the "no you can't" tone on 18. I see Duplexer set to OFF on 8-14, which would disallow transmit, which is expected. But that's not the case on 18. I'd start by making sure your DCS tones are disabled / cleared out completely on 18. It wouldn't hurt to disable the Rx tone (you'll hear anything on 18), and input ONLY the Tx tone of 94.8 and see if it's still messing up. This'll be easier to test if you have another radio close by to play with as well

Probably yes, but that doesn't make sense since that radio doesn't have an internal battery.

You mean the car battery? The GMRS20V2 is a mobile radio. There would be other symptoms with the vehicle if the battery had an internal short.

Sounds like it might just be down then. Or they changed the input tone. Do you hear other traffic on that repeater?

That seems really un-good. Even sitting in a hot car, in the sun, it shouldn't be hitting close to the boiling point of water.

I just figured enough people had him blocked to where I wasn't even seeing replies to him anymore

With the experience I had with one of those (worked for a few days then just wouldn't receive *anything*...worst radio I've ever owned.) I'm going to go out on a limb and say "it's probably the radio." Those things suck, unfortunately, because it's a cool concept, with everything in the handset including a useful screen.

1. What do you mean it 'shows' that it's a repeater? 2. Municipalities have on occasion stepped on GMRS channels. I think we've had a couple stories of fire departments on here in the last couple years. But without, just, SO much more info, I'm not sure we can diagnose it for you. Is Channel 4 a GMRS repeater channel? No. Is there much (other than the FCC rules...) stopping someone from setting up a repeater and using it on Channel 4? Also no.

All 22 non-repeater channels are shared GMRS / FRS. "Need" is a strong word. Like @OffRoaderX said, no one knows you're not using FRS radios, which don't require call signs. Especially when you're out in the woods in a hollow where no one else is going to be listening in. Basically no one I'm out and about with 'doing stuff' (and using radios for comms) with is a 'radio person' and we basically use them like FRS radios.

Have you tried shouting your call-sign on the repeater and seeing if anyone else can hear you? With both radios side by side like you describe, you're de-sensing the receiving radio while you're transmitting to the repeater so it won't 'hear' much of anything until you come off the button. Try talking, see if you get anywhere. Or have someone hold the other radio some distance away and see if they can hear you.

It's not advice. It's a statement of the current reality. So long as you're not egregiously breaking the rules and interfering with others (...and even then...), they don't seem to give a care. hey quick question: ..........what?