kidphc

True. It's the ones that don't know about line a and c. Read the internet or watch clips from influencer and are unaware they just violated a international treaty. It is our job as a community to watch out for it as a whole. How many times are the same questions asked? It is the nature of the hobby. Not like gmrs actually requires a test. As someone who use to cross line a to visit in laws on a regular basis pre covid. Thos frequencies are very much in use, by public safety and other services. So it behoofs us to use a frequency that is ok to use for the entire country. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Update. No more water in the nmo after 2 days of sporadic heavy rain. I think putting some dielectric grease in to the hinge and showing it closed may have stopped the water entry. Not positive but no more water. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Seems like a nice radio. Wonder if they will put firmware update out for the v1. Personally, I have 2x of the v1s and they do the job. So I won't be upgrading. Now if they charge me like $15 for a firmware upgrade (which I hope they have but don't charge for) I would consider it. They radio it is based on always has been rock solid for ham use, for at me atleast. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Swr works on any antenna. It really doesn't tell you if the antenna is resonant or not. Low swr doesn't always indicate the antenna is efficient or resonating where you want it to. However, it is easiest way to get to resonance. The unity gain (most phantom/low profile style antennas) antennas are usually designed well with low swr to begin with. Nmo antennas may or not be tunable. The base usually has a coil. This is used to electrically make the antenna longer. Without knowing the coil type and other variables you can't/may not be able to realistically ever get it tuned. You should talk to your ham friend to guide you in tuning it. Many hams have a crap ton off old whips because when chasing low swr, we tend to over trim. Sometimes rendering the whip useless for the band we where chasing. Learned the hard way tuning a nmo cb whip. Wasted alot of whips before realizing the nmo(coil) was coupling with a near by structure. Completely, throwing off the swr readings. I was 2:1 on my truck bit when a buddy tested it on his truck it was 6:1 vswr. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Deleted. Because no value add.

Nah, not for the hinge. The Larsen is uber flexible, part of the reason it is indestructible. So never worried about it. The Comet is way way stiffer, hence the spring. The Comet vibrates at every bump rocking the hood mount, the Larsen was laid back at speed but never rocked the hood mount. It was mainly for a better match at GMRS frequencies. Going off of Marc's testing, hence the switch.The Larsen was about 2.5:1 across the GMRS frequencies. Haven't put it on the nano yet to see how I fair on my installation location. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Pretty much what I did. I pulled the spring (which had water drops). Greased the crap out of it. Looks like that section is sealed anyways. Then greased the hinge area which is not easy. We shall see. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

That is what I believe. The gasket should stop it from comming up the nmo. I did switch the lower section out for a spring. Might need to remove it and grease it up. That might atleast eliminate one possibility. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

I am not sure which. I believe it is comming down the center pin. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

It does have a gasket but looks like water is making its way past it. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Any one else notice water pooling up on the inside of the nmo and the underside of the antenna? Just took it off to make some changes and there was about 4-5 drops of water on the inside of the nmo and underside of the antenna's nmo fitting. Never had this problem with my Larsen/pulse antennas, they however have a rubber ring gasket. The Comet ca-2x4 doesn't. Actually, starting to wonder if it some how made its way down the hinge.

Rear hatch mount pics with 3ft Wilson flex Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Bought a newused truck. A 2000 landcruiser. Been swallowing all my time. Tough moving all the radio gear and such over. It is so much smaller then the burb, with very little space to mount anything. Congrats on getting the tarheel installed. Switched to a Comet 2x4sr, on Marc's comments about the antenna. Probably going to switch the pod light and antenna location. The Larsen was better on the inside and got less interference on the GMRS frequencies there. Bit bummed the wife bought me a Hustler 102" whip and hd spring. Had to return it, turns out the hatch mount was designed for 3-4 ft fiberglass whips. The mount is fine front to back but rocks side to side. So I think a 102" might be asking for torn sheet metal. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Figured out my issue with the APRS not beaconing. DISCLAIMER> I do not have the latest firmware update. I think it is about 2 years old. Yaesu makes it a pain to update. In the sense you need to open the radio and flip DIN switches. Currently, the way the body is mounted in the Land cruiser, it would take some time to get the radio out. HERE IS THE SHORT FIX CURRENTLY. I simply remove ALL power from the radio for a few seconds. Luckily, I installed quick disconnect breakers on the power lines from the aux battery to auxiliary (fused power pole box) distribution box. Because reaching the andersons power poles beneath the radio would be just as bad as removing the radio.

I like signal sticks. Lot more flexible than many other antennas. In theory you could trim them down to gmrs frequencies (about ¹/hassle. For the 440 version). But don't find it necessary, or worth the hassle. Although the 440 version is about 6 inches, about the length of the rubber ducky. Wonder if the baofeng is simply getting the front end overloaded from adjacent signals. Which would desense it, always had intermod issues with most of my baofengs. Minus the gmrs v1. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Most of the 2/70cm and gmrs antennas are going to dc blocked. Some of the ones I looked at said I need to run a ground to the base of antenna (memory is really fuzzy been years). Ground plane can be over come with chicken wire, pizza dishes etc. Is the coax going out the side of the house? If so you could get static build up that way. If so I would suggest a way to discharge the static (poly phasers). In my setup all the antennas coax lines are grounded to polyphasers in a dxenginnering outside box, which is grounded to the main electrical ground rod. The radios are bussed back to the dxengineering box. I don't like using grounding lines in the house, have seen some wonky electricals in houses we have owned. The point of bounding everything in a specific way is to make sure max ground potential is even. If the main grounding for the house is on the other side of the house. You may want to drive 8ft grounding rods ever 16 feet, and bond everything with 1-2 copper straps. If in doubt call an electrician. A lot of the grounding work is to help discharge the static and help with common mode noises. Not really going to help with lighting in most cases, it just going to vaporize everthing in its path. Even in a properly grounded set up, lighting is going to do a lot of damage most of the time. Common mode noise, which you will see more of on 10m. Most can be allieviated with air baluns or chockes.Fortunately, a 10m dipole hides well in most attics, barring metal shielding from vents, electrical and insulation. Shockingly, most of the rfi you will experience will be comming from your house. The proximity to the antennas to the house electrical won't help. Everything from wall warts, led lights, stoves, washers, and tvs will have the potential to interference on different bands. Grab an sdr from a buddy and do a sweep to see what frequencies you will see interference.

If you want really cheap. The rtsdr that I got on Amazon does an awesome job for listening. I would suggest building a long wire with a bias t or getting an active antenna. For like $20 it is hard to beat. I personally, perfer sdrconsole over all the panels. Biggest difference I found with the rtlsdr versus the rsp1a was that it takes less to overload the front end on the $20 dongle. Think baofeng versus a quality ht. Including a clip of the Rsp1a versus the ft991a waterfall. Connected to the same antenna (no gain). The switch does degrade the signal a bit on the ft991a. When plugged in directly the waterfall is a bit better. The scp span frequency is set at 50khz, the highest resolution I can get. The radio gain is maxed out. The rsp1a is set to 6 rf gain and -35 if gain an -5 visual gain. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

About the tunernon the ft991a. Anything greater the 3:1 and then you are using a external tuner. C4fm us nice to play with on the radio in 6m/10m. But since it was an older design it miss out on the ability to be a node even with the hri200. That is a sore point for me at least. Personally if the amp and tuner was cheaper I would recommend a ic705. They are all when not on sale about the same price. Why? You could use it as a base, mobile and a qrp field radio. You buy what you want/need. It is really unfortunate that there isn't one radio that ticks all the check boxes from any manufacturer. All are close but just miss the mark. Good luck on your choices. Dedicated hf with dual bander is what I say. Flexradio if you got the money for hf, with a maestro you can play with the radio at home from work. But I was a computer tech so I love technology and lean towards sdr radios they can hear so much more then the super hets like the ft991a. So much so that I can pick signals out with the rsp1a that don't show up on the waterfall of the 991a much less can be heard from the 991a on the same antenna. Have you looked at the kenwood ts series?

Really, both are great radios. It is really going to come down to DStar vs c4fm. I am a tech. I have a ft991a. The waterfall is nothing to right home about. Enough so I setup a quasi panadapter using a rsp1a and mfj sdr switch. Also did a catswitch because unlike the Icom 7300 the menu is a complete pain at times. Both can be used for field work. Personally, the ft991a works better in my books because it is all in one box unlike the Icom 7100. Also I'd didn't have a choice. Wife bought it as a gift and she didn't want to spend 1k on a radio that looke like an alarm clock. Any reason an all mode versus a dedicated hf radio and dualbanner? If you are into 2m/70 ssb work or satellites a 9700 and 7300 would be awesome minus the $$$ Asking because I found with 2m/70cm ssb work alot of it is the same 10 guys unless you get luck with antenna height (no hoa) or tropo. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Fabulous site. Hoped it helped. I did see a long time ago on expedition portal that one guy on his 80 had prinsu (actually think it is what started prinsu) build a rack that had ears on the back of the rack. Specifically, for his 2m and aprs antenna. He had the same problem with his rtt. You could accomplish something similar depending on the rack you are using. At least on the 100 the roof rack screws go though the entire roof. Should note i changed the configuration of the massive metal hood mount. I brought the antenna inboard and flipped the mounting ear and moved the pod light outside towards the fender, as well as dropped the pod mount lower. I wanted to get the nmo coil to be a little less obstructed by the pod light. It seams by the seat of the pants to have helped. Might be pseduo pill effect. If it did help I wonder if it because more horizontal groundplane (hood) underneath and not next to it (fender) or was a bit of height. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Have had the chance to upload the photos. Here is a link too my lc100 thread on ih8mud. Using a massive metal hood ditch mount (photo was before I mounted the ditch lights) for the 2/70 and a trailer tailor hatch mount for my 10m/11m antenna. Both are on the driverside, both are worth the money imo. May swap the 10/11m antenna for a little tarheel. Post in thread 'Kidphc's 2000 LC100 attempt to rebuild, maintenance and rebuild/build up.' https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/kidphcs-2000-lc100-attempt-to-rebuild-maintenance-and-rebuild-build-up.1263236/post-14088632 Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Could be. I get to a repeater that is about 45mi on 70cm. Was surprised to hear it in the mountains of wva, about 85 miles at point. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Localized tropospheric ducting.. or incredible repeater setup with a good line of sight to you. One tropo event we were talking to people in NY, about 275 miles from the repeater. Only last 30 minutes but was awesome. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

No matter what antenna you choose a gmrs antenna is going to be too short to clear the roof line. What that means is skewed radiaton pattern and loss of range. As well as irradiating you and your passengers a bit at high power. On my landcruiser I mounted the 2/70 ham antenna to the hood mount on the driverside. On my suburban it was mount smack in the middle of the roof. It had much better reception and less picket fencing. I plan on adding another 2m/70cm antenna to the roof. Pics welp going to have to wait. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Don't forget an automatic controller, unless you are tuning stationary by ear. 300 or so. A side benefit would be the coax connector could be use when camping etc. To throw up a wire or if your really keen on it a 1/4 multibander (dxcommander). Really about how much you are going to use it and why. Plus with the tarheel and extra cables it could be moved to your daily driver. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk