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kidphc

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Everything posted by kidphc

  1. Never asked if it was a soft top or hard top. Another option would of been to mount the antenna inside. Definetly, not ideal, but the fiberglass and soft top would of been some what transparent to the rf. Hopefully, (kinda expect) it's not mounted to moving glass. Which is a no no. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  2. They work. Lot of hams don't like them. Why you are going to waste energy transferring between the inductive coils. They don't work well above 800mhz, not a problem for gmrs. If it works be happy. They only way to know is to use it and get reports. You really won't know the differences till you throw a mag mount on the hood or roof. Then you'll get a better idea of the differences. I went from a through the roof nmo to a hood hinge mount. Were there noticeable differences? Yes. More picket fencing a bit loss of range, (some repeaters I can't even hit in certain locations). Was trade off acceptable to me? Jury is still out. Don't sweat it too much. I looked a the Larsen glass mount to get idea of losses, even they don't publish them. They tend to publish almost all their spec some where or another. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  3. Actually, a field strength meter with be awesome. You can set up multiple test and remove variables to get the answer. Knowing the gain of the antenna, coaxial losses etc. You could derive a formula. In conjuction with the swr meter, you could get some more of the values. Unfortunately, the swr meter is deriving power and swr readings using some calculations. But really are only good to see if you have a resistance mismatch for the tune circuit ( radio, antenna, feedline). It however is better then nothing. Glass also is unfotunately, has great thermal and magnetic insulation properties (emf and ir for instance). Magnetic forces can make its way through, they have to be strong enough though. Easiest way to calculate the losses is to ask the manufacturer. Hopefully, they will be forthcoming. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  4. I would say the Wouxun KG-1000G is a better option and cheaper. It is the sister of the Wouxun KG-UV980P (which is the ham 2m/70cm version. The UV980P can be unlocked, haven't found the files for it. The KG-1000g no one has seamed to unlock it yet. Hell the 2x Wouxun KG-1000G can be configured as a makeshift repeater using 2 antennas (you would need to space them appropriately), the PC cable. One is set to receive and the other to transmit. Personally, I would research ammo can SHFT ham or ammo cam SHFT gmrs radios. These guys have setup systems that use lipo, solar or generator power to quick deploy. Kinda like this for a quick $$$ commercial unit https://shack-in-a-box.com/. Better yet make your own. As far as antennas quick slim jims and jpoles come to mind, like Ed Fongs antennas. You could use a slingshot with mono filament (fishing pole) to quick deploy the antenna up trees. Crap even tethered helium balloons could hold up the antennas. On flat terrain a pushup pole with tripod could elevate the antennas. https://youtu.be/xRmLJUzOPRg
  5. Avoid the troll.Move on. Your equipment, your time, your money. You react how you please. Generally, speaking this is why we can't have nice things. Look at gun contol and the arguments. Don't waste your brain cells or a moment on it any further. Like he said YOUR resources. He is entitled to his thoughts. Just proceed to ignore, you are giving them power otherwise. Just document the jerk abusing the repeater and send it to the fcc. Shutting down the repeater when you heard him absolved you of your responsibility after your ignored request. Yes, you are responsible for the repeater, but can't contol everyone using it. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  6. How's about fabricating something that will mount to the spare tire or even a hood bracket? I usea ditch light mount to mount a pod and an antenna. Another ditch light mount on the driver rear hatch to mount another antenna. You could always also find a flag pole mount (used for sand dunes) as a basis. At least you won't be scratching up the hood to mount an antenna on/off. Also could be left semi permanent just routing the cable and using a bnc adapter to connect to handset. Personal favorite: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/gmrs-wouxon-kg1000g-installation.33535/ Other ideas. https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/antenna-mount-for-cb-gmrs-ham.24936/ https://www.google.com/search?q=bronco+antenna+mount&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjRmunoqvj3AhXln3IEHYiiByYQ2-cCegQIABAC&oq=bronco+antenna+mount&gs_lcp=ChJtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1pbWcQAzIECAAQGDoECCMQJzoECB4QClDqGlj2ImDPJ2gAcAB4AIAB1gOIAawIkgEHNC4zLTEuMZgBAKABAcABAQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-img&ei=-OmMYtG-F-W_ytMPiMWesAI&bih=634&biw=360&client=ms-android-att-us-rvc3&prmd=sivn#imgrc=xsm-C6R-9CQpmM&imgdii=sGNHyz8TJOftXM Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  7. Kinda sucks. I feel for you. Only takes one bad apple to spoil it for everyone. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  8. Yup. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  9. Good info. Thx. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  10. Actually, did more research shocking. Looks like sometime around 2004 Canada reclassified their FRS/GMRS into FRS/GMRS/GMRS-M. GMRS-M seams to mimic the MURS. Although our MURS is on 151-154 MHZ. Short is our CH19 is their CH9. Which is allocated to GMRS. I guess the FCC is slower then I thought. Being lIne A and C really are only now a consideration for the 467 side of the repeater pair. Since they decided to drop the 467 MHz (8)pairs for GMRS repeater use and no longer made them available. /sarcasm shocking the FCC hasn't updated the rules on the US side for LineA/C /sarcasm Canadian 462/467 Spectrum Permit License Exempt https://www.ic.gc.ca/eic/site/smt-gst.nsf/eng/sf08144.html
  11. Nah.. would rather have my ham repriocity then anything I would gain from GMRS over any change. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  12. True. It's the ones that don't know about line a and c. Read the internet or watch clips from influencer and are unaware they just violated a international treaty. It is our job as a community to watch out for it as a whole. How many times are the same questions asked? It is the nature of the hobby. Not like gmrs actually requires a test. As someone who use to cross line a to visit in laws on a regular basis pre covid. Thos frequencies are very much in use, by public safety and other services. So it behoofs us to use a frequency that is ok to use for the entire country. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  13. Update. No more water in the nmo after 2 days of sporadic heavy rain. I think putting some dielectric grease in to the hinge and showing it closed may have stopped the water entry. Not positive but no more water. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  14. Seems like a nice radio. Wonder if they will put firmware update out for the v1. Personally, I have 2x of the v1s and they do the job. So I won't be upgrading. Now if they charge me like $15 for a firmware upgrade (which I hope they have but don't charge for) I would consider it. They radio it is based on always has been rock solid for ham use, for at me atleast. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  15. Swr works on any antenna. It really doesn't tell you if the antenna is resonant or not. Low swr doesn't always indicate the antenna is efficient or resonating where you want it to. However, it is easiest way to get to resonance. The unity gain (most phantom/low profile style antennas) antennas are usually designed well with low swr to begin with. Nmo antennas may or not be tunable. The base usually has a coil. This is used to electrically make the antenna longer. Without knowing the coil type and other variables you can't/may not be able to realistically ever get it tuned. You should talk to your ham friend to guide you in tuning it. Many hams have a crap ton off old whips because when chasing low swr, we tend to over trim. Sometimes rendering the whip useless for the band we where chasing. Learned the hard way tuning a nmo cb whip. Wasted alot of whips before realizing the nmo(coil) was coupling with a near by structure. Completely, throwing off the swr readings. I was 2:1 on my truck bit when a buddy tested it on his truck it was 6:1 vswr. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  16. Deleted. Because no value add.
  17. Nah, not for the hinge. The Larsen is uber flexible, part of the reason it is indestructible. So never worried about it. The Comet is way way stiffer, hence the spring. The Comet vibrates at every bump rocking the hood mount, the Larsen was laid back at speed but never rocked the hood mount. It was mainly for a better match at GMRS frequencies. Going off of Marc's testing, hence the switch.The Larsen was about 2.5:1 across the GMRS frequencies. Haven't put it on the nano yet to see how I fair on my installation location. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  18. Pretty much what I did. I pulled the spring (which had water drops). Greased the crap out of it. Looks like that section is sealed anyways. Then greased the hinge area which is not easy. We shall see. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  19. That is what I believe. The gasket should stop it from comming up the nmo. I did switch the lower section out for a spring. Might need to remove it and grease it up. That might atleast eliminate one possibility. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  20. I am not sure which. I believe it is comming down the center pin. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  21. It does have a gasket but looks like water is making its way past it. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  22. Any one else notice water pooling up on the inside of the nmo and the underside of the antenna? Just took it off to make some changes and there was about 4-5 drops of water on the inside of the nmo and underside of the antenna's nmo fitting. Never had this problem with my Larsen/pulse antennas, they however have a rubber ring gasket. The Comet ca-2x4 doesn't. Actually, starting to wonder if it some how made its way down the hinge.
  23. Rear hatch mount pics with 3ft Wilson flex Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  24. Bought a newused truck. A 2000 landcruiser. Been swallowing all my time. Tough moving all the radio gear and such over. It is so much smaller then the burb, with very little space to mount anything. Congrats on getting the tarheel installed. Switched to a Comet 2x4sr, on Marc's comments about the antenna. Probably going to switch the pod light and antenna location. The Larsen was better on the inside and got less interference on the GMRS frequencies there. Bit bummed the wife bought me a Hustler 102" whip and hd spring. Had to return it, turns out the hatch mount was designed for 3-4 ft fiberglass whips. The mount is fine front to back but rocks side to side. So I think a 102" might be asking for torn sheet metal. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
  25. Figured out my issue with the APRS not beaconing. DISCLAIMER> I do not have the latest firmware update. I think it is about 2 years old. Yaesu makes it a pain to update. In the sense you need to open the radio and flip DIN switches. Currently, the way the body is mounted in the Land cruiser, it would take some time to get the radio out. HERE IS THE SHORT FIX CURRENTLY. I simply remove ALL power from the radio for a few seconds. Luckily, I installed quick disconnect breakers on the power lines from the aux battery to auxiliary (fused power pole box) distribution box. Because reaching the andersons power poles beneath the radio would be just as bad as removing the radio.
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