Riktar

Specifically the antenna. While the installation presently has a mag mount I am going the drill route (Center of the roof) for max performance. If nobody has, I am still going to do this and will post back with the results.

Noted for future reference. Thanks!

That should not be a problem since I have a specific set of mixed (repeater and simplex) channels that I seldom change. The ability to set volume control for either speaker is paramount to this project.

Thanks for confirming the volume question! I never considered that possibility. I will check the back the manual for my TK-8180 and see if the back ports have that same capability!

If I am running a KRK-6DH with a TK-890 head unit (Single radio controlled by 2 separate control heads) is the volume able to be set independently from either control head? Or does changing the volume level on control head "a" also change the volume level on control head "b"? Reason for asking is for the consideration of having one radio service the upstairs and downstairs of my home.

Aside from putting 13.8 to the yellow wire you also have to provide the same 13.8 volts to the red wire. Have you taken the front faceplate off and (gently) checked the ribbon cable that connects the faceplate to the radio body? The reason I ask is that one of the TK-8180 radios I purchased was listed as non working. Which it was until I checked the ribbon cable and found it wasn't inserted fully into the body. I surmised that someone previously had the KRK-10 remote kit in use and when converting the radio back, they did not fully insert the ribbon cable back in. Just a thought. Good luck!!

Then how does the DB-404 work? It consists of 4 folded dipoles which are combined by what appears to be a phasing harness. And they are not pointing the same way. Or is that because the folded dipole design allows that while the Yagi design does not?

Pretty close to 150 degrees. I did some searching on how to make a phase harness. If I understand the theory I need 2 75 ohm coax feeds to the antenna(s) and a 50 ohm feed that get connected to a coax splitter/combiner of sorts which is then connected (via the 50 ohm coax) to my radio. All the sites I found that mention how to do this are referencing VHF frequencies for the math and measurements. Still looking for someone who has done the math in the 462-467 range.

It wasn't the $$$ amount of the DB404 that was the egads part. It was the cost of the splitter I was commenting on. And yes on the 2 yagis. I do have a coax switch already from a prior setup. I just thought it would have been convenient to have both antennas "on" at the same time without having to remember to flip the switch on the coax switch. But for that price, I will bear with the added effort of flipping a switch.... ?

Thanks for the reply. As to the power level, I am using a Kenwood TK-8180H so 45 watts output. And EGADS that is an eyewatering price!! Not to mention the 3db loss....

Most of my needs (at distances over 10 miles) are in 2 specific directions. Using just a single yagi pretty much covers my "local" (under 5 miles) needs. So instead of using a rotator on a single antenna I was wondering if it would be simpler/more efficient to have two yagis pointing at 2 individual compass points?

Fascinating idea! It would definitely take some advanced planning to make it practical. I think the 1/2 mile hops that were mentioned earlier were in reference to people using bubble pack HT's. My experience has shown 4 (Suburban) - 12 (Rural) mile simplex range between my base (TK-8180) and my mobile (TK-8180H) radios. Now this has been achieved by listening to all the advice and experience of this forum's members as well as doing A LOT of reading on the subject. Anyone in SE Wisconsin care to try setting something like this up?

Thanks for the replies. Since I didn't mention the cable type I have run the following: Started with 50 feet of LMR400 and later found a 30 foot length of FSJ4-50B with N connectors already install that made a noticeable difference. So for the sake of seeing what would happen if I went "cableless" to the antenna I considered this. I did not consider the ground. Is that to say I should ground the antenna itself aside from the grounded power supply to the radio body?

I am considering moving my TK-8180H radio right next to the antenna in the attic since I have a spare KRK-10 kit which would allow me to put the head unit right on my desk. And it would eliminate any power loss from using 30 feet of coax cable I am currently using. Would there be any need to shield the body of the radio from RF since it would be right next to/below the antenna? The antenna I am using is a Commscope DB404-B.

Thanks. Will give that a go...