MichaelLAX

WELCOME to this Forum: While I am not in New Jersey, until a local chimes in: Many times Tones are not used for simplex, especially if a wider approach to communications is desired. A Tone (whether CTCSS or DCS (a/k/a DTC) on the receive end will work to keep your radio quiet (squelch on) until it receives someone transmitting with that Tone. A Tone on the transmit end, can be received by anyone listening to Channel 20 in range if they have not set a Tone on their receive end; even though some manufacturers call them "Privacy Tones." Using a prearranged Tone on both transmit and receive with another radio in range, will, for the most part, work to keep your radios silent until such time as one of you (or someone else in range using the same Tone) transmits

Never mind...

Why not? Here is the easy to remember Emergency Plan for New York state: 212, 315, 347, 516, 518, 585, 607, 631, 646, 716, 718, 845, 914, 917 and 929 ?

That reply wasn’t addressed to you, so no need to take it so personally; AND I posted a LIKE to your last comment.

Not quite sure where all this paranoia about the Federal Government comes from, but the events since the presidential election of 2020 show that election workers have more to fear from being Dox'ed by anti-government activists than the other way around: Attacks Against Election Officials are taking a Toll

Sure: Buy another radio, unscrew the nut and put the rest in your parts drawer! Jack Nicholson needs a nut for his HT! ?

And not sorry to hear about my stolen AT-779UV... because you are looking at the "used market"?!? ? PS: I have the GM-30 clone, the Pofung 15UV and was very happy with it and gave it to my grandson to use!

I have never owned or used a Midland, but I have read comment after comment on this Forum about their shortcomings and limitations and the only primary advantage of them seems to be: easy to use out of the box (then why so many problems requiring posts here and elsewhere?). For years, I have declined using an HT inside my car for all of the obvious reasons. When I purchased my first Anytone AT-779UV a/k/a Radioddity DB-20G with a $29 mag mount antenna my whole attitude towards mobile communications changed 180 degrees! With the addition of a cup-mount holder from Amazon, it is easily installed/uninstalled from my vehicle and 18/20 watts pushes my signal well past the limited distances that HTs would provide. Unfortunately @KAF6045has measured the output of two separate units and has published his results here that his units are woefully underpowered. With all due respect to him, others have reported power output as claimed by the manufactures, and I cannot recall any other similar report of low power output. $99 - $109; plug in cigarette lighter, mini-sized, easy to use on GMRS out of the box, 18 watts GMRS and an inexpensive mag-mount and you will be able to hit your wife's GM-30 for greater distances that you could with another GM-30 and mag-mount. I will be buying another one soon, as unfortunately someone broke into my garage and stole my bike and my 2nd mobile AT-779UV while it was out of my car. Any questions?

Those steps will also tell you the version of the firmware installed.

And the Anytone AT-779UV, which in the United States is sold and locked to GMRS.

I agree

Grab it as Amazon shows it for $109 to me today!

Because the included software does not seem to allow for "cut and paste" from other software* (and as of the date of this post, there is still no CHIRP for this radio), be sure to "segment" your channels and leave empty channels in between each segment. In that way as you grow with new channels to be inserted, there is existing space and you will not have to redo your codeplug from Channel 1 all over again Empty channels are ignored when scanning or manually changing channels. For example, my "segments" separated by empty channels are: 30 GMRS channels GMRS Repeaters 5 MURS channels PAPA channels (linked 2 meter and 70 cm HAM club in SoCal) 2 meter repeaters 2 meter simplex 440 repeaters 440 simplex Local "scanner" frequencies of interest; and finally 494 - 500: Weather Channels *NOTE: I believe you can cut and paste within this CPS software so that you can more easily create empty spaces between segments, since you have already written your first codeplug.

Another reason to: "Be sure to FIRST download and save the default Codeplug that comes pre-installed."

What if they first restore the factory settings and codeplug to then stop its abilty to transmit on the Ham bands, and then “turn around and use that radio for GMRS?”

Be sure to FIRST download and save the default Codeplug that comes pre-installed.

I think you are correct but I use Radioddity v2.02 CPS software with my Anytone AT779UV. I have never updated the firmware. CORRECTED to list the v2.02 software the CPS software.

The defect in your power measurements, if there is one, is not necessarily linear, such that you can say that the defect should show a 120% increase in power in the DB-20G.

Good explanation and summary! It is, however, easily accessed in the official Radioddity software. NOTE: The settings in the screenshot above are from a default launch of version 2.02 of the Radioddity CPS software and are not representative of either my codeplug settings or the actual radio's default settings when shipped and received by the end user. It offers the simplicity of a similar sized Midland radio, with all this extra versatility, at about a 40% discount in retail price, and other than @KAF6045's stated problem with its power output, I have not seen any other such complaints about this unit. Still waiting for the 50 watt model!

There is no such thing as a "certified radio" for HAM! If someone opens up the DB-20G specifically to transmit on 2 meters and 70 cms; more power to them (about 18 watts on 70 cms and 20 watts on 2 meters ?) And that's Mr. CA guy, to you!

I have to agree: I go repeater hunting with one of my HTs and jot down the applicable channel and access tone when I can successfully hit it. Then you can attempt to duplicate it at home and tweek your antenna, if applicable. What is your zip and which repeater are you attempting to hit with your 50x1?

Go easy; he suffers from Newbieitis! ?

Really?!? Care to correct your misinformation?

I can't explain why your meter shows such discrepancies. All I know is that others on this forum have measured this unit and received results that more accurately represent what it is capable of doing: 18 watts on UHF and 20 watts on VHF. I have also conducted transmission experiments that show that this unit is capable of clearly hitting both simplex communications and repeaters that are many miles from my home base. It even outperforms my Yeasu FT-857d on 2 meters and 70 cms. I had two units: one in my shack and the other in my car and have been very happy with the results. As I said earlier, you are unlucky to have received two defective units, especially since you only want to use it for GMRS. When operating to full power specifications, the only two "complaints" I have about this unit is: 1) The CPS software is a bit cumbersome to work with, but there are workarounds; and 2) There is no 50 watt model. AND for the price and size component, it can't be beat! One guy on this Forum even installed one in his Ferrari!

You’re unlucky to have received two defective DB20-Gs.