tcp2525

Whether using Linux or Windows I always use VMs for all my radio programming. It's so quick and easy to migrate the VM to whatever host OS you are using.

The moral of the story is you can blow $25 on things a lot worse than quality software. I never had a negative experience with RT Systems.

Let's break this down, even if you only have one radio: Cost -- RT Systems @ $25 vs. Chirp (Free) vs. Supplied Software (Free) Convenience and Time savings -- RT Systems @ Very quick and easy to configure allowing you to save multiple profiles if you travel or have different needs. Chirp @ If available for your radio is okay, but not as efficient to use. Front panel @ Just an unnecessary pain in the ass. Ultimate overall savings -- RT Systems vs. Two bean burritos from Taco Bell, Pepto Bismol, toilet paper, and missed time from work. Everything considered, it looks like RT Systems is a real bargain.

Cool! RT comes to the rescues once again. I'm just curious of what problems they are talking about with the cable? My OEM cable always worked flawlessly. From their site, "For a long while we could not get into this radio for programming only to find out the cable that came with the radio was not right for that purpose." Be brave and take a crowbar to your wallet and buy the software. Like any other RT software, it will be the best $25 you ever spent.

Have you tried the kinetic reset yet? The procedure is generally listed in the back of the manual and very rarely printed in English. When all else fails, I generally take the radio with the power switch on and rap it against the work bench with moderate force. Sometimes it might take several tries. If that fails, take a 20 oz. framing hammer and tenderize it for about 3 minutes. While doing this don't forget to recite a few scriptures from the good book. And lastly, if it's still stubborn, just throw it against the sidewalk and walk away smiling as you finally got the last word in.

Thank you for posting a more concise description of what this thing is really made out of. The link @gortex2 posted wasn't as descriptive and had me assuming, and you know what they say about assuming, that it is that fancy new marketing speak that's so prevalent these days. They didn't even mention plating. This reminds me of going to Home Depot to buy a garden hose with "copper infused" fittings, which simply means anodized aluminum that is colored to look like copper or brass. And yes, I do know what these differences are when it comes to metallurgy. I'm just not proficient posting from a smartphone. Yes, brass is made by alloying copper and zinc. Also, pure zinc or magnesium is used in sacrificial anodes in the corrosion prevention sector. And now that I see that they are using "zinc alloy" which indicates it's not pure zinc, not that it matters in this application. The primary reason these NMO mounts are being manufactured with "zinc" is it's much cheaper than brass, as you indicated. And requires very little machining, if any, as these mounts are die-cast. In my opinion, these are equivalent to Chinese pot metal. That said, I'm confident these mounts are still going to be quality from an electrical and mechanical perspective and one shouldn't have any second thoughts of using one. Call me old fashioned as I've been using quality brass NMO mounting kits for close to 40 years. Plus, I have a nice stockpile of kits to last me two lifetimes. No zinc for me.

Are you crazy? I added two more so that I can be prepared when the main one burns up. Remember, GMRS is all about being prepared.

I still have my two 380s in the drawer all charged and ready to go. Great little radios. They are my tower radios. If I drop one, I'll read a few scriptures from the good book, but other than that it's no big deal.

Brass is, at least yellow brass is 34% zinc mixed with copper. The nickel comes in as plating. Scrap the nickel and you will see yellow brass.

Maybe you are confusing Chinese "pot metal" with quality brass that is alloyed with zinc? I can assure those mounts are quality, definitely from a metallurgical perspective.

Definitely take it apart. I suspect that there is a mechanical issue such as cold solder joint, most likely around the center pin of the N connector. Doubtful you burned out the hybrid resistor. If you did, they are around $20. Get it apart and inspect and take measurements with your meter. Post pics of the insides and someone on here will give you better advice.

It's voluntary. You can put as much in your profile or not. I kept mine blank.

Are the 878s really $300? I paid $200 each for mine a while back. Sounds like these guys are hanging around with the big three Japanese manufacturers. I must say that the build quality, audio, battery life, and features are a great deal for what I paid. I think if I need to replace one in the future, I might be hard pressed to shell out $300 for one. I've always considered all these Chinese radios as disposable. That 168 looks like a nice economical starter radio.

Which is dissipated in as heat.

Generally a poor connection or impurities in the "copper". A poor connection increases resistant, which generates heat.