tcp2525

I tend to buy the items I think I need instead of what they think I need. Best to do what you're doing, asking questions and research. I see you're also looking at the IC-7300, which is a great radio too. I lean towards Icom for my station. Just stay away from package deals and get the radio you desire, a decent power supply to handle the load should you get your license. I don't know your physical situation when it comes to deploying an antenna, but a great choice would be an end-fed wire with an UN-UN. If you are unfortunate enough to be in an HOA, this is an easily concealable antenna. Calling HRO or DX Engineering and give them an idea of what you want is one of your best options. And they will gladly help you as they are knowledgeable and willing to help.

Yes, I never had any issues with Comet. I will definitely be purchasing another this fall. Hopefully by then it will come from a different production run. Plus, I prefer tower climbing in the colder weather.

Very nice! And good advice as well.

WOW! Thank you for the compliment. I'll definitely wear that as a badge of honor as I've always looked up to you for your infinite wisdom.

Good points! I forgot about the SDRs. I have one here on the bench, an SDRplay RSPdx, I bought used over a year ago and really don't use it much. When I do, it works really well, all depends on the software and computer. You just have to add the antenna and computer. And believe it or not, there are actually people that don't own a computer, but have a smartphone. That's even better, no extra hardware needed as there are on-line SDR services for free that work really well. See what happens when you kick the hornet's nest and people come out and put multitude of options on the table. http://www.websdr.org/

Just trying to prevent him from falling for the classic "Textbook Sad" option of wiping his ass with $100 bills and flushing them down the toilet. At least if he buys a real radio that has a receiver that will exceed that Chinese abomination in performance he'll have something to show for his investment. At the end of his day he has another option. I won't apologize for someone that gets butt hurt by someone putting another option on the table. And it's not going to hurt my feelings if he doesn't take my advice.

Take the $500 you're going to flush on that crap and add $400 and get a real radio such as the Yaesu FT-710 and have a transmitter just in case you get your ham license. https://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=H0-018470

The best advice is to read a lot of threads in this forum and start learning what works and what doesn't. Ask a lot of questions as well. There are a lot of topics on improving range and getting the most from your installation on the net. There's so much to learn, just take it slow so you don't get overwhelmed. Again, it's all about research and not thinking any question is not worth asking. Most of all, have fun.

Agree, it's definitely less of an issue on 10/11 meters and VHF, but when you are in the UHF region, one has to put in a little more effort to optimize their installation as it not only affects transmit, it attenuates recieve. A lot of newcomers rely on us to get the most out of their gear. I feel it best to advise them how to achieve the best performance, but also give them the option to get it just good enough if they have monetary and/or technical limitations. It's all about compromise, but UHF doesn’t handle compromise without a fight. That's just my opinion.

Very nice! I have a 2013 Limited. I finally upgraded to 20" wheels from a 2023 F150 after ruining two 22" rims from Baltimore potholes. I love the 20s and wished I did it sooner.

That's my point. Why suffer with a preventable issue?

This same picture was posted in the forum a year or two back. Don't sweat it, we're all trapped in an infinite loop of off topic crap.

What make and model is your truck? I was assuming it is a newer F150, but I'm not rally sure. Mine is an older F150 with sun roof.

Good advice! I really don't think the NanoVNA is overkill, it's just an inexpensive slightly more complicated device with a small learning curve that will give the user important information to help optimize their installation. I have read on this forum that some people are extremely happy with a 2.5:1 SWR since it is only reflecting 18% of your power back. I don't want to deprive anyone of their happiness, just as long as they are really happy. At 467 MHz every little thing adds up and can decrease performance. I know I wouldn't be happy dumping power into 50' of LMR400 and an antenna reflecting 18% of my power back, that's just me. Hell, maybe I'm too anal. But, when I tune duplexers, I try to get every 1/10th db return loss back I can. Bottom line, if whatever you're doing delivers the performance you want,, just roll with it.

Very nice install. If you have a GMRS radio with a detachable face you can always use the sunglass holder, which will fold up when not in use. I put the ham radio there and the GMRS in the center counsel storage. Both are hidden when not in use.

Nice!!! The DB20 has been a real winner and a great inexpensive performer at 15w on GMRS. A 40w version would be highly welcome just as long as they don't overprice it.

The best advice one can give is to install several runs of the largest diameter conduit in the walls so you can pull wires between floors from basement to attic and everything in between. This way you will have an easy time deploying whatever you plan now and in the future. Conduit is extremely cheap and installing it while under construction is easy and painless. As for a repeater in your situation, don't expect the signal traveling very far. If you can't get the antenna at an optimal height you will be limited to a few miles. Still install the conduit, though.

Soldier is expendable, Baofeng and AK-47 is not.

I totally agree. I'm just saying for the people that want to get the most out of their GMRS installation is to do it right the first time and squeeze out every bit of performance for maximum enjoyment. As we see on the forum we have many people not getting the performance they deserve. Like you said, "close is plenty good enough" for most people.

I'm sure it's just sample variations. I've tested a bunch of meters throughout the years and find that no two meters from the same manufacture will give you the same exact reading. This even applies to Bird meters. Bottom line, one has to accept the possibility that whatever budget meter they use it might be in the ballpark or not. A cheap NanoVNA is the ultimate choice if you're looking to get the best from your installation. This is even more important on UHF.

I second that. There are really only two choices for this task, a Bird 43 meter with appropriate slug on the high end of the price scale, or a Chinese NanoVNA for about $60. I have both and highly recommend Mr. Chung's NanoVNA as I use it for all my antenna building endeavors and checking SWR. I'll even go as far as saying it's totally and utterly foolish and breaks every terrestrial and celestial bounds of human stupidity relying on these cheap meters as I've found them to be off anywhere between 10 to 20 percent off. This even applies to Daiwa meters as well. For the budget minded hobbyist that want fantastic accuracy for only a few bucks, the NanoVNA is the only choice.

Fortunately, I have a bunch of these Transco switches. Right now I have two on top of the tower to switch between vertical and horizontal antennas on 2m and 6m. A bit overkill for those two bands, but the price is right and they are reliable. I'm eventually going to do the same for GMRS, switch between a high gain vertical and a stacked set of yagis.

I only use Transco switches. No fake specs and extremely low insertion loss.

Put a fan behind it and don't worry anymore.

Super Stationmaster https://www.wiscointl.com/celwave/antennas/uhf/pd455/index.htm