SteveShannon

https://www.allstarlink.org

Thanks for getting that from them. That sounds like a real botched delivery.

Rohn makes towers that hold up antennas. They have a tilt base that can be installed. I don’t know if Rohn makes a winch for it, but they’re pretty pricey. You still need an antenna to mount to the tower. if I were you I would call Cushcraft or DX Engineering, tell them what you have, and ask what they recommend. I would certainly do that before sending the Cushcraft back and ordering a Rohn tower. The Rohn towers are free standing I thought, so no guy wires needed for most shorter heights but a poured concrete base is part of the installation. Rohn also makes round tubing masts that would have guy wires or brackets depending on the installation.

Removing the receive tones allows you to be certain that you’re on the correct receiving frequency. With no Rx tone your receiver reproduces everything on that frequency. I’m not sure it you’re describing a roger beep or a station ID when you say the repeater occasionally beeps at you. Is that when you transmit or when you hear someone else’s transmission? A roger beep can be programmed to sound at the end of every transmission. A station ID is required to sound every 15 minutes while the repater is in use and at the end of a conversation for GMRS. It’s frequently done using Morse code so it’s more than a beep. Is the repeater programmed to sound a roger beep? That would be unusual, I would think, since many people feel roger beeps are annoying. But if the repeater were programmed to give a roger beep and if you’re reliably hitting the repeater you should hear the roger beep with every transmission, so the fact that you only hear it occasionally would seem to mean that you’re not able to reliably hit the repeater. Or you only occasionally hear a beep because only occasionally does someone who has programmed a roger beep transmit to the repeater. Clear as mud, right?

DX Engineering sells winch kits for some of their vertical antennas: https://www.dxengineering.com/search/product-line/dx-engineering-manual-winch-add-on-raising-kits/part-type/hf-vertical-antenna-pivoting-fixture-manual-winch?fr=part-type

I’m in Butte, so SW Montana, but as far as ham radio there’s a DMR repeater on 70 cm in Eureka. I assume you’re in that area, maybe Troy or Libby. It’s networked to the Brandmeister network so you can literally talk to people all over the world. https://www.dmr-montana.net/radio-site-data/eureka-dmr.html Ham radio is much more active than gmrs in Montana although Billings now has gmrs repeaters. Good luck!

Before you programmed the repeater tone did you hear it when someone else used it? I always recommend leaving the receive tone unprogrammed at first. That way you’ll hear everything on that frequency. Then concentrate on getting the transmit configuration right. It’s possible to have the transmit right and still not hear anything until someone responds. How are you testing your settings? Do you have a friend who can go half a block away and listen on a different receiver set to receive on the repeater frequency to see if you’re getting through?

Your other three radios would only receive from the repeater; they don’t receive on the frequency you’re transmitting on. Now if you mean why don’t they receive from the repeater when you’re transmitting to the repeater from within the same room, you’re receivers are doing something called “desense” which is when they are swamped by a nearby transmission (even at a slightly different frequency) and thus cannot hear the repeater. Give one of them to a friend and have him travel half a block away and I bet all three will hear the repeater.

In your case the 0.698 w is the power going forward, from the transmitter towards the antenna. You see it also in the FW value at the bottom left of the screen. RW shows the Reflected power, which you want to minimize. On yours that’s shown as 0.000w which makes sense given your low SWR. If you had a high SWR your reflected power would also be high.

The ham licensing process is also dependent on the VEs and when they submit to the FCC. I took the ham tests at 7 pm one night and before I awoke the next morning my license was ready to print, so it can be quick. However, I just got word that the fcc process for ham licenses is experiencing a glitch right now.

Here's a link to the R56 standard: https://www.blm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files/Lands_ROW_Motorola_R56_2005_manual.pdf

I did! ? I’m not sure how I double posted. I clicked submit once and it took forever but I know better than to click it again. So, I reported the message and asked for it to be deleted. Click on the ellipses and choose Report. Add a note explaining what’s needed.

The half mile hop reference was not aimed so much at bubble pack handhelds as worst case urban conditions or even valley to adjacent valley in hilly terrain. As you correctly point out it’s possible to achieve much greater distances by planning.

Yes, molded into the case. None of that tiny set screw business for Garmin. They have built in topo maps, reflective color screens, and you can also send short text messages. Neither text messages nor gps locations are allowed to be relayed by repeater, so I assume that when the repeater channels are selected digital data isn’t sent. Also, my radio was made in Taiwan, not China, and cost as much as a higher end Yaesu HT. They have a less expensive monochrome model.

My Rocketry friends and I have used them for years. They work very well.

This ^ They’re everywhere. Someday I’ll change mine to N connectors.

The link he provided definitely says SO239 Connectors: SO-239 (UHF Female)

Also I believe you can transfer all your licenses to a single FRN and then either ignore the other FRN or request they be deleted.

Show us how you have it wired to the power supply, please. I don't know whether the meters on the front reflect the power delivered to the rear outputs only or the rear outputs plus the two outputs on the front (cigarette lighter + one more connection which is limited.)

When you click on the tab it lists which items are on sale and the discount codes for each of them. I don't see ABR in the list anymore, but maybe I just missed it.

Good choice. At that length the loss because of cable type is minimal, but it’s good to have quality cables anyway. I saw also that ABR cables were no longer on sale for 10% off.

SO239 = SOcket PL259 = PLug your jumpers need to be terminated with PL259. At 18 inches I would still use an LMR400. At that length the difference in cost of the cable is small. Most of the cost for a short jumper is in the making. PL259 connectors connected to SO239 are not weather proof and if subjected to moisture will eventually begin degrading the ends of the cable badly. There are several kinds of self amalgamating tapes and compounds that can be placed into the fittings to prevent moisture damage. also gigaparts has a 10% off sale on their ABR jumpers. I just bought some LMR 400 jumpers from them. The discount code appears when you click on their special deals advertisement.

Before spending much more time on it I would suggest that you start a trouble ticket with Retevis now. That way if you’re unable to get it working to your satisfaction you may be able to return it.

They don’t sum. The output of the radio is considered separately from the output of the repeater. But if you can contact the repeater with your 50 watt radio turned down to 5 watts, you should.

71.9 Hz is tone 3 on the Wouxun (page 79): https://www.buytwowayradios.com/downloads/dl/file/id/1464/product/5434/wouxun_kg_935g_owners_manual.pdf