SteveShannon

Good catch, Gil. I was wrong. He has 1-8 set as repeater channels. 9-15 are set for simplex. I would clear out tones at first though.

Edited: 1-8 would only work through a repeater. If you want to transmit directly from one radio to another you must have the transmit and receive frequencies the same.

That’s pretty cool. AircraftSpruce is where I get my fiberglass lamination supplies and I really like their products.

On my Ram with a tall topper I use a Midland magnetic base NMO mount (MXTA12 I think) and a Midland MXTA26 antenna for GMRS. It’s a great combination. I place the mag mount on the center of the roof, but I wouldn’t hesitate to move it to the back or to use a hood mount or 3rd brake light mount to avoid a moonroof. My radio is a Radioddity db20g, which is inexpensive and fairly easy to use, but has an abysmal software package. Fortunately the software is free, because it’s not worth more. But the MXTA26 is worthless for 2 meter vhf. So, for ham I use a Comet SBB5-NMO which is easy to place on the Midland mount. I use the same radio. The software sucks for ham also.

Obviously if it comes up more than once per week it’s too frequent for you to remain civil. You do well for a short time, but then you go back to acting like you have to debase yourself to help others. Changing your screen name obviously didn’t help. Now you’re inviting PMs rather than having us criticize your hubris nature.

Have you seen this website? https://www.qsl.net/kb9mwr/projects/900mhz/plan.html

Apparently Nautel uses this tool as well and provided this legend: from video:

Also, this tutorial video displays similar red areas, so I asked about the meaning in the comments.

Have you looked through the tutorial or read the posts on the io group: https://groups.io/g/Radio-Mobile-Deluxe? Tutorial: http://pizon.org/radio-mobile-tutorial/index.html

What are your criteria? What does “better deal” mean to you? Cheapest? Works on most different services (ham, MURS, and GMRS?), easiest to use on GMRS?

Go right back to that dealer. He might be able to clear this up quickly.

I truly believe it’s going to be the height and type of the antenna. Your antenna is at 25 feet. You’re surrounded by trees. Their canopies are probably about 25 feet. Any high gain antenna concentrates its power in a flatter pattern than an omnidirectional antenna. A Yagi also concentrates it in a narrow cone. Trees will absorb the signal. High gain directed into trees leaves little signal in other directions. Lowering the antenna to ground level might allow it to send the RF below the tree canopies. Also, ,are sure the 1050 is transmitting wideband.

Did you read from the radio first? That’s advised with almost all CPS.

Radio is funny and rules of thumb sometimes are never right for all situations. A Yagi should make you reach further, but because it limits the various other paths the RF may take I think it’s actually self-defeating in this situation. Try an omnidirectional antenna at ground level. After all, your 905 works at ground level with 1/10th as much power. Putting your antenna at 25 feet might simply be placing it at just the right level that the trees can block RF.

There are already forums here for FRS and amateur radio that you might not be able to see because you don’t have a full account. But to directly answer your question you could start a “club” for people to join. I think that requires a premium membership.

So the kg-905g is transmitting into a low gain antenna that transmits in all directions. I don’t know what your range is (same two miles or closer in?) but a Yagi is a poor antenna to use for anything other than a clear shot directly to another antenna. And I am not familiar with the ano-50g, but in trees like that I would be much more inclined to try a low gain antenna on the kg-1000g. That will let the signal radiate in all directions like the antenna on the 905 does.

Doesn’t that defeat the moisture seal?

Since you only have three posts, just create a new account using the right call sign.

My biggest gripe is the fact that there’s no alternative to the Radioddity software for,programming. My second biggest gripe is that you can’t export channels from one configuration and then import them to another configuration even if the channels are compatible.

Can’t you use Chirp? Chirp will import from RepeaterBook.

For the jumper at either end you typically want something very flexible. The shorter the jumper the more flex you want. LMR 400 isn’t very flexible because it has a solid inner conductor, but M&P makes two different 10 mm (same diameter as LMR400) cable types with stranded center conductor. One is called Ultraflex 10 and the other is called Hyperflex 10. Most of the cable manufacturers do something similar. For more flexibility you can even go to smaller sized cable, such as M&P Ultraflex 7. It really depends on you setup, but for example I have an 18” piece of RG8x going between my radio and my SWR/Wattmeter, then a six foot piece of some flexible coax that is similar to LMR 400 except with a stranded center conductor. I think it’s M&P Ultraflex 10 or maybe the ABR equivalent. That leads to the pass through/lightning protector. Yes, there are conductor differences. The thinner, more flexible jumpers have more attenuation, but because they are short the loss doesn’t matter much. That’s the only way it will adversely affect performance, but that’s the trade off and it’s doubtful you’ll ever notice the slight loss.

Depending on the connector on the hardline you should be able to just order a jumper from DX Engineering (they will also do custom) or Gigaparts or Ham Radio Outlet. All sell short jumpers with nearly any end. I have several LMR400 and UG8X jumpers for the last few feet.

I think that this paragraph is pretty succinct: The Moxon rectangle is a 2-element array using dual coupling between elements to produce its nearly cardioidal pattern. Because it depends upon both the mutual coupling between parallel portions of the elements and the coupling between element ends, it is not amenable to the addition of further elements for increased gain. In other words, a Moxon rectangle is not expandable by the addition of director in the manner of a standard Yagi. But the author, SK W4RNL, goes on to describe how to stack the rectangles: http://on5au.be/content/a10/moxon/moxstack.html

I thought that by definition a Moxon is only two elements. There are other antennas that claim to be three and four element Moxons, but a Moxon is just a specialized Yagi. Single band Yagis work by having a single reflector, a single radiator, and multiple directors. In most cases the directors are all 5% shorter than the radiator. Sometimes the directors taper so each is shorter than the previous director. Have you tried making your directors shorter?

He lives in Ramsay. In fact he just called me. I told him you were interested, Zach!