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HCCFCA

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Posts posted by HCCFCA

  1. March 2024 Update from Bastrop, Tx.

    Alamo/New Braunfels is my closest repeater on the Alamo network. It is 70 miles away and pegs the meter on my KG-1000. Yesterday, I did a radio check and spoke to a 2 mobile units at both ends of 1604, east side and west side. They were as clear as day on my end and they heard me LC.

    What an awesome service to our Tx GMRS community. Many thanks to all involved.

    IMG_3309.JPG

  2. On 1/22/2022 at 10:24 AM, mbrun said:

    @HCCFCA I have some seriously good news for you. Who says an old dog can’t learn new tricks? This old dog just learned one! What is it? There is indeed a way to create new repeater channels on the KG-1000G on the fly! Why did I miss it? Blinded by behavior expectations derived from past experiences.

    You can build a repeater memory channel from scratch, you can copy an existing one into new memory channel, and you can completely overwrite and existing one with a new one. WooHoo!

    First the reference. On Page 40 of the owners manual you will find some supporting information.

    Lets start with an easy one. Duplicating an existing channel.

    Lets say you have an existing repeater channel that works on a 550. Now lets say you encounter a need to add another 550 repeater, only with different codes and name.

    1) Activate the existing memory channel on your radio that you wish to duplicate. (The next steps will copy its settings into a new memory location).
    2) Press [4] on your keypad.
    3) Enter the three digit memory channel location you want to want to receive the current channels settings. (Make sure you enter all 3 digits).
    4) Press [Menu]. You just duplicated the configuration, all except the name and the new channel becomes the current channel.
    5) Press [Menu]+[2]+[2]+[Menu] to enter channel naming mode.
    6) Enter a name for the channel using your keypad. (Refer to page 50 of the manual for how to do this).
    7) Press [Menu] when complete. Whatever name appeared on the display at this time is now the name of your new new channel.
    ? While keeping your new channel the active channel, customize its CTCSS and DCS settings to suit. You’re now done.

    The hardest and most time consuming part of the above is channel naming. Other than that, pretty simple.

    This next sequence is for creating a repeater memory channel from scratch.

    1) Put your radio into VFO mode.
    2) Enter the Rx frequency.
    3) Press [7] key multiple times until only a ‘+’ symbol appears above the displayed frequency.
    4) Press [Menu]+[4]+[Menu]+[0]+[0]+[5]+[Menu]. (This establishes the 5 MHz offset frequency).
    5) Complete entry of your preference of CTCSS and DCS codes. (Refer to owners manual).
    6) Press [4] on your keypad.
    7) Enter the three digit memory channel location you want to want to receive the current settings. (Make sure you enter all 3 digits).
    ? Press [Menu] to commit the number. You just created a new memory configuration.
    ? Switch radio to Channel Mode. Your radio should be on the channel you just created.
    9) Enter the channel name as described in the steps described earlier.

    An there you have it. Fully field programmable.

    * An important note. You must move pretty quickly through the steps otherwise the radio times out and returns to normal operation. You will find yourself repeating steps if you do not move fast enough.


    Michael
    WRHS965
    KE8PLM

    I followed Michaels instructions and they worked like a charm. Thank you!

  3. Any suggestions for a half wave that'll be ok with the suction cup mount? I'm still getting acquainted with the antennas and all their different flavors. And how power output is affected by a ground plane (or not). I could see radiation pattern but output power?

    I was perfectly happy with the Tram 1126B's performance. If I hadn't checked the SWR we wouldn't be having this conversation(!)

    Appreciate the help as always.

  4. Not to beat a dead horse...

    But, here are some further observations for more forum insight into identifying ways to reduce the SWR:

    In testing my previously described set up on the Ferrari with the Tram 1126B, I'm getting an SWR of 2.78 on Ch 25 (15 W) to SWR of 4.21 on Ch 17 (18W). On the same mount in the same position on the glass by the roof (previous posted photo) a different antenna has different results. 

    With a Tram 1174 the SWR on Ch 25 is 1.75 (18W) to 1.80 on Ch 17 (21W). The 1174 has transmitted about 2 miles further than the 1126B although it was at least 6 miles simplex for the 1126B. The 1174 hit a repeater 40 miles away, the 1126 couldn't hit the repeater.

    Does this have something to do with the ground plane effect or lack thereof? Ways to reduce the SWR?

     

  5. Epilogue...

    It's a happy ending.

    Thanks for everyone's advice and links to radio and antenna mounts and an antenna, All was installed and tested to 8 miles Simplex to base this morning. I was amazed that this tiny Tram antenna bested the roof magnetic mount Nagoya UT-72G on my SUV with the same radio (I need to check the SWR on that install). And no drilling or other alterations to the Ferrari were necessary and it's all temporary. The car will be ready for the caravan drives with the car club.

    1. Tram 1126-B

    2. Rugged Radio suction cup antenna mount

    3. NMO mount & RG58 cable

    4. Rugged Radio/Scosche cup holder mount (modified to work)

    Antenna.jpg

    Radio.jpg

  6. I'm going to do this right, so I ordered the specific-purposed suction mount for an NMO that Steve suggested -that I missed entirely - and will place it top center/hinge area of the glass over the engine compartment as Marc suggested. If I had seen this method it would have saved us all a lot of conversation once I realized nothing else would work. So now we have the mount figured out...

    Antenna suggestions (I want to keep the antenna relatively short)

    What do y'all suggest

    Tram 1174? Midland Ghost? Other candidates?

    Continue to appreciate all your help. We're almost done.

  7. As for where to place the DB20, that's still up in the air too. The previous picture was just to test power. Italian cars are not know for their robustness, well robust anything (except maybe the engine ?. But she powered up with the car on and transmitted.

     

    I have a cupholder with bracket but it's about an inch too tall, well, probably 2 inches to provide some air flow.

     

    I feel I'm getting closer and will look forward to any and all suggestions. This may work after all.

    cupholder.jpg

  8. Chapter 2...

    Thanks for everyone's input. Outside the car is just a non-starter. I looked at all the suggestions and none will work. If I wanted to drill a hole or use a fender mount, then this would be easy. But no damage to the car was the over-riding consideration.

    It's either stick with an HT which is the opposite of what i was trying to accomplish, or I'm going to try the below arrangement. The antenna is in the interior at the window between the passenger compartment and engine. - Its a Nagoya window clip slipped over a piece of aluminum. The antenna is off one of my KG-905's but I have a Retrevis 20W antenna coming fromChina (thanks to the recommendation above). The radio is a Radioddity DB20. The cable if you can call it that is not much but it's fixed in place.

    I was able to get 3 miles using the shorty antenna to my base which would be more than enough for my needs. I do have a Nagoya 771G that I use on my HT's. If I slant the 771, I might be able to use that. The caravan of cars never stretches more than 2-3 miles. HT's often exceed their limit when the roads are twisty or hilly.

    Any Pitfalls? 

    IMG_7821.thumb.jpeg.7a80a121aeeff1e052c52ab6d48b48c9.jpeg1827775272_IMG_78202.thumb.jpeg.86d68454e212853c87055a476635d121.jpeg

  9. I thought about something along the lines mentioned by wayoverthere. There are grills on either side of the rear glass window. Theoretically i could throw some bolts from the underside thru the grill work. OTOH it gets REALLY hot in the engine compartment and then Id have to run the cable out the pass window along the body work to the grill. Upon closer inspection, the mesh is too fine, plus, as mentioned - no possibilities of scratches is the prime directive (so to speak)

     

    IMG_7669.jpg.3b376ecaa773cd95e447f24825056abe.jpg

  10. I use HT's when my car club goes on drives. Depending on the number of cars, the line can get pretty long. I recently purchased a 20 watt mobile unit to gain some distance. The dilemma is this: the car is completely aluminum so no mag mounts (or those base plates with the double sided tape) and I will not use a lip mount that might mar the paint or drill holes. Where could I mount an antenna and what antenna would it be. Does such an animal exist? 

  11. And the rest of the story...

    Well...My worry about hammering in the ground rod was justified...Not! After about half an hour of hammering the ground rod, it went in as easy as I could have hoped for. Being near the house, I suspect that fill dirt was originally pushed up against the foundation when the house was built but without the rocks found on the rest of the property. So I pounded away and got it it in. If it had been a few feet away from the foundation, I would have needed a hammer drill or stick of dynamite.

    Now it's wiring up the bonding wire from the mast to the rod and from the rod to the house ground by the electrical meter.

    Thanks guys.

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