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Took a short video of my finished radio install. It’s not the best, but it does work. Repeaters come through generally well except back home where there’s a lot of trees and hills that cause the signal to skip.

Did a couple test transmissions, but with no response. Double checked the CTCSS codes, and those were correct. Tried with two antennas.

The radio DOES work, just can’t seem to get a response from anyone from the repeaters. Either no one is online to listen, or it’s a LoS issue. I can hit local radios just fine, some from my apartment and some from work.

Let me know what you all think or what can be improved.

 

 

18 answers to this question

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Posted

If your getting the courtesy tones back from the repeaters you know your making the trip. If you don't hear people talking and no CT you might be out of range. Maybe they changed the CTCSS tones or DPL tones as well and you might need to scan to find new ones.

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Posted

If you’re looking to clean up the install, consider detaching the faceplate and mounting the radio body under one of the front seats. You can use some heavy duty Velcro (hook side) on the bottom of the radio, then it’ll stick to the carpet well (avoid the rear seat heating ducts).

The faceplate could easily mount to the top of your cubby area using the same type Velcro, or better yet 3M tape strips (often found at the hardware store).

This would eliminate the boxes and all that mess in the console.

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Posted
48 minutes ago, Hoppyjr said:

If you’re looking to clean up the install, consider detaching the faceplate and mounting the radio body under one of the front seats. You can use some heavy duty Velcro (hook side) on the bottom of the radio, then it’ll stick to the carpet well (avoid the rear seat heating ducts).

The faceplate could easily mount to the top of your cubby area using the same type Velcro, or better yet 3M tape strips (often found at the hardware store).

This would eliminate the boxes and all that mess in the console.

That’s good advice. The removable face plate is such a great feature of this radio. My only primary concern is the ventilation of the radio itself, don’t want to kick dust or debris into the radio with the fan.

Thank you for your input. 👍 

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Posted
That’s good advice. The removable face plate is such a great feature of this radio. My only primary concern is the ventilation of the radio itself, don’t want to kick dust or debris into the radio with the fan.
Thank you for your input.  

I really don’t see dust or debris being an issue. Velcro the chassis on top of or next to the rear floor vents and it’ll be fine.
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Posted

I ended up installing the main body of my KG-1000G+ under the steering column of my Ram 1500. As it turns out, there are two holes in the cast housing that are perfect for tapping to 1/4-20 (IIRC, could've been #10). I mounted the radio there, then ran a short piece of flat CAT5 cable through the dash and up above the stereo. There's a little depression/"cubby" there that's completely useless. I installed a Bulletpoint mounting base that I forgot I'd bought, then bought an AMPS plate to connect the faceplate mounting bracket to. I think it turned out pretty slick.

One quick note: You can use any CAT5 cable you'd like, but BE SURE to get a female/female coupler and use the short, flat cable that came with the radio. I ran the Wouxun cable from the main radio unit to the coupler, then my aftermarket cable to the head unit on the dash.

As far as your issues with not hearing anyone on the repeater(s), try turning off your RX-CTCSS for those repeaters. Yes, this will allow you to hear all traffic on the simplex channel, but it can sometimes affect whether or not you hear the repeater, as well.

 

IMG_4514.HEIC IMG_4205.HEIC IMG_4206.HEIC

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Posted

Interesting install.

Reviewing my vehicle, there's no reliable way to install my radio underneath my seat due to mechanics being in the way and the station being too large. Also, would need to purchase external speakers, since there's no Aux input on my car's radio -- USB only. Unfortunate, but will have to do. I could use some sort of Bluetooth transmitter to my car, but that's just another potential complication.

Edit: Here's a YouTube video update:

 

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Posted
Interesting install.

Reviewing my vehicle, there's no reliable way to install my radio underneath my seat due to mechanics being in the way and the station being too large. Also, would need to purchase external speakers, since there's no Aux input on my car's radio -- USB only. Unfortunate, but will have to do. I could use some sort of Bluetooth transmitter to my car, but that's just another potential complication.
Edit: Here's a YouTube video update:
 

You could mount the radio body in the trunk too.
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Posted
Unfortunately the power cords are not long enough to reach the trunk.

Should be just Ethernet cable, if so you could add another and use a female-female connector.
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Posted
12 hours ago, Sonicgott said:

Interesting install.

Reviewing my vehicle, there's no reliable way to install my radio underneath my seat due to mechanics being in the way and the station being too large. Also, would need to purchase external speakers, since there's no Aux input on my car's radio -- USB only. Unfortunate, but will have to do. I could use some sort of Bluetooth transmitter to my car, but that's just another potential complication.

Edit: Here's a YouTube video update:


 

 

Is there room under your back seats? 
It actually looks like there’s room under your console.  You might find that by separating the body from the face of the radio you have more flexibility.

 

 

 

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Posted

It was a tight squeeze to get two radios under the driver's seat in my 2023 Ford Escape. I detached the control unit on both radios and they are mounted on a Lido seat bolt mount. I definitely had to run an external speaker for both radios. I couldn't hear either radio with the base under the seat.

Here is the remote heads for my Wouxun KG-1000G and TYT TH-7800 on the Lido seat bolt mount.

Escaperadios.jpg.b58ec997d19db69258c78eb926c8ca4e.jpg

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Posted
14 hours ago, Hoppyjr said:


Should be just Ethernet cable, if so you could add another and use a female-female connector.

If I move the base of the radio to the trunk, the power cords to the base won't be long enough to reach my battery. Faceplate positioning wouldn't be the problem.

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Posted
10 minutes ago, Sonicgott said:

If I move the base of the radio to the trunk, the power cords to the base won't be long enough to reach my battery. Faceplate positioning wouldn't be the problem.

Extend the power cable.  

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Posted
12 minutes ago, Sonicgott said:

Looking for a power extension cord, can't find it. I'll have to check again.

Just buy some 12 gauge stranded insulated copper wire from an automotive supply store (avoid CCA or Copper Clad Aluminum). If needed pay someone to terminate it correctly. Or take it to an automotive stereo installer. 

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Posted
2 hours ago, SteveShannon said:

Just buy some 12 gauge stranded insulated copper wire from an automotive supply store (avoid CCA or Copper Clad Aluminum). If needed pay someone to terminate it correctly. Or take it to an automotive stereo installer. 

Ah, a bit more work than I'm willing to put in, but I'll keep it in mind. Appreciated. ❤️

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