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Posted
1 hour ago, WRPL700 said:

that there are two versions. M version and L version.

That's interesting and certainly worth investigating.

 

1 hour ago, LeeBo said:

Just having my thumb on the plug did the trick.

That too.

Posted
1 hour ago, WRPL700 said:

I did not see this covered in previous posts:  I remember seeing in the 5RM manual (toward the back of the manual-page 36) that there are two versions. M version and L version.  Could this be the problem?

Both of mine are the M version and so far, (knocking on wood) I've had no issues with Chirp or listening to air band channels.

Posted

The UV-5RM Plus has the same issue, no go with CHIRP but it'll read with factory program. Oddly enough I can't write the program I hand wrote and saved for the AR-5RM into the UV-5RM Plus even though it technically be the same radio. I'll have to read the UV-5RM Plus then delete each channel and rewrite the new channels into it.

I did test the power level of the AR and it's not too bad, I need to check the UV now.

Posted
20 hours ago, WSAA635 said:

I just ordered a UV-5RM Plus, it'll be here tomorrow and I'll see if it responds differently to CHIRP than the AR-5RM. It'd probably going to be the same radio just with different stickers but you never know. Either way it'd be good to have 2 of the higher powered radios. 

I'll post the results.

I could be wrong, but I was thinking the UV-5RM could not RX airband like the AR-5RM.

Posted

I know it wouldn't TX on MURS but the AR does. I had the same issue with CHIRP so I'm going to return the UV-5RM Plus. I may get another AR-5RM at a later date because I do like the power level and it's nice having a large battery that'd usb-c chargeable. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi folks, interesting to ready all this with CHIRP/this unlock radio. It worked fine with the 2 I got. Then again, I just programmed them in October & I did download a CHIRP update that included this model. No issues onprogramming. The reception is great!

Posted

Has anyone noticed a change to transmitting wattage once you program the radio with chirp? Out of the box my wattage output was as it should be. After programming through chirp my wattage increased, pretty significantly.

Posted
1 hour ago, WSEZ645 said:

Has anyone noticed a change to transmitting wattage once you program the radio with chirp? Out of the box my wattage output was as it should be. After programming through chirp my wattage increased, pretty significantly.

Usually we hear reports of it going the other way or swapping low and high power. 

Posted
2 hours ago, WSEZ645 said:

Has anyone noticed a change to transmitting wattage once you program the radio with chirp? Out of the box my wattage output was as it should be. After programming through chirp my wattage increased, pretty significantly.

It hasn't happened to me. You're using the "5RM" profile, and have a code plug from the same model of radio?

Last time I heard a report of this happening I hooked mine up to a power meter to confirm that things were as they should be, and they were.

Posted
On 11/12/2024 at 2:18 PM, WSDE760 said:

Thank you for your comprehensive review.

Question: I did not receive a model specific manual and cannot seem to find one online, can anyone post a link?

bump..........

Posted
3 hours ago, WRXB215 said:

Sounds like they may finally be getting embarrassed about all the re-labeling they do. 🤣

Part of the success of inexpensive overseas brands is a lack of embarrassment that would otherwise hinder them from bringing products to market. And sometimes it works out fairly well for them; they sell a ton of radios, the radios are reasonably acceptable to use, and cheap enough for everyman.

Posted
19 hours ago, SteveShannon said:

It looks like it’s just the same as a UV-5RM.  Here’s its manual:

https://baofeng.s3.amazonaws.com/BAOFENG_UV_5RM_PLUS_User_Manual_EN_20240304.pdf

Thank you, as an absolute novice, I sincerely appreciate your assistance.

However, I already found both a UV-5RM and the UV-5RM PLUS manuals online.
The problem is both manuals document only two transmit power levels where AR-5RM has three.

So, I wonder what else in these manuals might be different?

Posted
2 hours ago, WSDE760 said:

Thank you, as an absolute novice, I sincerely appreciate your assistance.

However, I already found both a UV-5RM and the UV-5RM PLUS manuals online.
The problem is both manuals document only two transmit power levels where AR-5RM has three.

So, I wonder what else in these manuals might be different?

You could try Baofeng K5+ ... they seem very close and it is 10W tri-power, aircraft ban RX.  I can't tell what if anything is different.  The extra battery being sold for AR fits them both.  It has 5RM as part of the ID #s on the inside back label.

https://www.baofengradio.com/pages/download

Posted
18 minutes ago, UncleYoda said:

You could try Baofeng K5+ ... they seem very close and it is 10W tri-power, aircraft ban RX.  I can't tell what if anything is different.  The extra battery being sold for AR fits them both.  It has 5RM as part of the ID #s on the inside back label.

https://www.baofengradio.com/pages/download

Thank you as well, always appreciate kindly avuncular advice!

Amusingly, the linked K5+ manual also only shows two Tx power levels, so I will assume for now that this is a persistent typo across several manuals.

I should note that the 5RM CHIRP (legacy) profile works fine as far as I can tell and does show three power levels for my AR-5RM.

Thanks all.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So someone mentioned that some AR-5RM have a sticker that you see after removing the battery. They mention M and L, but on my batch of AR-5RM, the sticker is FK.  So these are fully unlocked.  For me, the model that worked in CHIRP was UV-5RH.  Also, I was able to use Odmaster software with the Bluetooth dongle.  Funny, but after I programmed the radio with Odmaster, then CHIRP recognized it a 5RM.  As always YMMV. 

Posted

I made a mistake getting the AR5RM. I screwed up and got the AR5RM-PLUS. That radio is locked and can't transmit on FRS/GMRS/MURS frequencies. I just sucked it up and threw it in a box and got an AR5RM that comes unlocked. It's a great little radio and I'm still learning stuff about it. I had to get a GMRS antenna for it. I bought a couple of GMRS antennas for additional Baofengs. I was using a NAGOYA 771-G and the reception was very weak and scratchy. I was talking on a repeater to someone who was about 25 miles away. She could barely hear me and I could barely hear her. So I switched antennas to an ABBREE 771-GMRS and it sounded like we were talking next door to each other. The ABBREE antenna is only $8 bucks on Amazon and the NAGOYA is $22 bucks. That's $22 bucks wasted IMO. That's just my personal unscientific test of GMRS antennas.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/26/2024 at 6:46 PM, dosw said:

I recently picked up a Baofeng AR-5RM. The kit included the radio with battery, a standard "701 clone" antenna tuned to FM (broadcast radio) / 136-174MHz / 400-520MHz, an Abbree AR-771 VHF/UHF antenna, a desktop charger, wrist strap, belt clip, and a manual which turned out to be better written than the manual for my old UV-5R radios.

 

For those who are unfamiliar with this radio, it is pretty much identical to the UV-5G Plus, the UV-5RM Plus, and possibly other Baofeng radios. It's marketed as pushing up to 10w transmit power.

 

The radio is quite a bit larger than the older UV-5G (UV-5R sibling). The screen is much nicer, though I've seen complaints that it's hard to read in bright sunlight. I suspect that's true, though it's still legible to me. The menus seem better laid out, but maybe that's because the display has more characters, so it's easier to understand what the menu is saying. Compared to the UV-5R's 128 memory locations, this radio has 999.

 

Just about the first thing I did was use my old Baofeng UV-5R USB cable to program it with Chirp. This process went smoothly, and the data upload/download is about twice the speed of data transfers with the older UV-5G. Chirp is going to be Chirp -- if you know how to use it with one radio, it works just about the same for any compatible radio, with the addition or subtraction of a few field columns depending on the radio you're programming. I noticed that this radio allows up to 12 characters in the channel name field. And it offers three power levels, low, medium, and high. Through some testing I determined that these equate to about 2.5w, 5w, and 10w.

 

Spurious emissions.... When transmitting with my older UV-5G and looking at the spectrum waterfall on my RTL-SDRv4 I would see a sharp peak at the frequency center, with two short peaks a few kilohertz away in either direction. This isn't terribly surprising, as my SDR's antenna is only six feet away when I test. But when I transmit with the AR-5RM and observe the waterfall, I don't see those secondary peaks on either side of the frequency center. I also used some software to do a wider scan with the SDR to see if there were other significant emissions across a broader portion of the UHF spectrum, and really didn't see much, in my unscientific test.

 

Next I hooked up the Surecom SW-102 along with a dummy load, and tested power output at 2m, MURS, Marine VHF, 1.25m, 70cm, and GMRS frequencies. At low power, the output was usually in the 2.3-2.7w range, with a bit of a dip, closer to 1.9w in the 1.25m band.  At medium power, there was another dip down to just over four watts at 1.25m, but in other VHF and UHF portions of the RF spectrum power was very close on either side of 5w -- sometimes a little over, other times a little under, but just barely. At full power it came in around 8.2w in the 1.25m band, but everywhere else was between 9.4w and 10.2w.

 

It's worth noting that as a GMRS radio (for which it isn't type approved), it would be inappropriate to set it up to transmit on GMRS channels 8-14, since they're supposed to be 0.5w channels, and this radio really doesn't go below about 2.5w. For MURS (for which it is also not type approved) you're also pushing it a little, since MURS is supposed to be <2w. But 2.5w is only 25% too powerful, versus 5x more power than it should be putting out, which is the situation for GMRS 8-14.

 

The antennas: I did sweeps with a NanoVNA within each of the ranges mentioned above; 2m, MURS, Marine VHF, 1.25m, 70cm, and GMRS. The included antennas perform fairly well. The shorter one had an SWR of <2.5:1 throughout all the ranges except 1.25m, where it was something like 3.5:1 -- not appropriate for use in that band. The longer antenna scored consistently better in all of the ranges I tested. Still not really appropriate for 1.25m. With both antennas, they tended to see a bit too much rise near the top of the Marine VHF spectrum. If this spectrum is important you would probably want an antenna better tuned to that set of frequencies. But they both did pretty good at 2m, MURS, 70cm, and GMRS. I compared a Nagoya NA-771G, and it did even better at GMRS frequencies, at the expense of slightly higher SWR in the lower parts of the 70cm band. The 771G did okay in the upper portions of the 2m band, and MURS as well, though it's not designed to be a dual band antenna. 

 

Testing with the long antenna (the Abbree 771) at 5w (medium power) I hit the Ogden repeater (43 miles away) and the Promontory repeater (64 miles away). It helps that I have line of sight to those repeaters. Over Simplex I tested at about 3 miles and 5 miles from my home at each power level using both the shorter and longer antenna. The 5-mile test was more interesting, so I'll rank the results of that test from best configuration to worst. First, though; I did manage to get through to my home, with where I had a VOX recorder set up, using each of the configurations. I'm going to mix my RA-87 (40w radio) with MXTA-26 for comparison:

Best to Worst:

  1. Retevis at 40w: Full quieting, no static at all. Crisp sound.
  2. Retevis at 25w (M): Nearly full quieting, no static. Crisp sound. The noise floor was just very slightly higher.
  3. AR-5RM at High with long antenna: Obviously it's going to sound a little noisier at 10w with a 771 clone antenna than the Retevis, but still very good.
  4. Retevis at 5w (L): slightly higher noise floor than AR-5RM at 10w.
  5. AR-5RM at Medium power, long antenna: noise floor was just a little higher than before.
  6. AR-5RM at High power, short antenna: I had to listen several times to hear the difference between high/short and medium/long. But medium/long won by a hair.
  7. AR-5RM at Medium power, short antenna: Still pretty good, but high/short was a little less hiss.
  8. AR-5RM at low power, long antenna: Noise floor was quite a bit higher, and some static coming through.
  9. AR-5RM at low power, short antenna: Considerable hiss and static, but my voice was still very clear, easy to make out.

I should have tested against my older UV-5G but I ran out of time. At higher powers, the difference between the long and short antenna wasn't as important. At lower powers, the antenna length mattered a lot more. Overall, though, antenna length seemed to make more difference than power level.

Configuration: I don't see much point in draining the battery and singing my eyeballs by transmitting at 10w all the time. The sound quality at 5w from 5-miles away was pretty good, particularly with the longer antenna. And I was able to hit those distant repeaters at 5w. Therefore, as I configured the radio with Chirp, I set channels 1-7, 15-22, and repeater inputs to medium - 5w. I set MURS to Low, 2+w.  Marine VHF/16 and the 68,71, etc working channels are set to Low (2+w). I haven't tested it with an antenna -- only with dummy load -- at 2m, 1.25m, and 70cm, and currently have it configured to not be able to transmit on any frequencies. And I've set GMRS channels 8-14 to not transmit, since its minimum power level is way too high compared to the requirement of staying below 0.5w on those channels.

To configure it to not be able to transmit on a frequency that you have programmed into its memory slots, you set the "offset" to "off." At that point, when you hit PTT, nothing happens. In Chirp there are four possible offset modes: (blank) which is no offset/simplex; off which is no transmitting possible, + (positive) offset, and - (negative) offset.

Air band: I've listened to air band with this radio. When you set it into the airband (108.0000 - 135.99875MHz) it automatically switches to AM, and will not transmit (tested with a dummy load). It does pick up ATC just fine.

Battery life: I've never run it all the way down, so I don't know. But I do like that you can charge it either from the desktop base, OR with a USB-C plug.

In the spirit of avoiding surprises: This radio, at least in the package I bought, doesn't come with a USB data cable. But it works with the same data cable used with the UV-5R or UV-5G. And within Chirp you chose the Baofeng 5RM profile (my UV-5G uses the Radiodity UV-5R profile).

The green button (search): Hold the green button for a few seconds. The phone will say "Search." Now hold the PTT on another radio. In a few seconds this radio will show the frequency, and a second or so later, will show the DCS or CTCSS tone. Then it will let you save it into a memory bank. I can't remember for the life of me how to delete it (other than with Chirp) but that's in the manual, for sure. The point is that you can pair it up to another radio that is already set to a frequency and tone quickly and easily. I tend to be the one setting up my radios and handing them out to family members when we go skiing or hiking, so it's probably not a feature I'll need much. But if you find yourself bringing a radio to an event where you know others will be using GMRS or FRS to keep in touch, you can get paired up to their radios easily.

I'm well aware this isn't a $50, $80, $100, or $150 two-way radio; it's a $35 (with extra antenna) multi-band two way radio; it should, by all rights, be a much worse radio. But its power levels are quite close to what's advertised, within about 5-6% of advertised across most of the bands I tested. 1.25cm is kind of the exception, being more like 10% off. But still, this radio is better than it should be. It feels pretty solid. Its sound quality is quite good. Listening to my recordings, it sounds like it transmits clearly. Scanning is pretty slow -- scanning is always slow on 2-way radios I've used. Squelch isn't perfect -- scanning 2m repeaters I keep getting hung up on one that must have another more distant one on the same frequency, too far to hear, but powerful enough to break squelch even when I have it set high. 

When people review equipment there's often some level of confirmation bias. I'm probably looking for reasons to like the radio, and to defend my purchasing decision. If I were looking for negatives, things not to like, I would come up with a few: It's quite a lot bigger than the UV-5G / UV-5R. It doesnt' fit into a pocket as easily. The included ABBREE 771 knockoff antenna feels cheaper than my Nagoya 771G, and the 701 knockoff is even cheaper than that. The scan button requires a long press, and an accidental short press puts you into a DTMF transmit mode that you can't seem to get out of except by hitting the "monitor" button once, which is an undocumented path. The antenna jack is SMA-M, whereas the UV-5G was SMA-F, so I had to order different adapters to be able to use an external antenna. The dust cover over the mic/speaker/data ports feels like it could wear out if you're opening and closing it a lot.  Unlike the UV-5R/G you can't alter the levels associated with the squelch settings. That was a common customization people made with the UV-5R series. The USB-C charging light on the back of the battery shows a dim green when fully charged -- too dim to see in outdoor daylight. You can't set the power level low enough to meet power requirements for GMRS 8-14, but I don't really care about using those channels anyway; my mobile radios can't use 8-14 either. In the overall picture, those are minor things, for a $30-35 radio. 

Ok, so which antenna do you (and others) recommend buying?

 

Is the  ABBREE 771-GMRS good enough to start with?

Posted
On 11/14/2024 at 1:54 PM, WSEZ645 said:

Has anyone noticed a change to transmitting wattage once you program the radio with chirp? Out of the box my wattage output was as it should be. After programming through chirp my wattage increased, pretty significantly.

I didn't have that experience. Mine tested at 1.8-3.9 watts on low, 6.5-8.3 on medium, and 8.3-9.9 on high, depending upon the frequency (and apparently phases of the moon, because I get noticeably different readings on different days). It does seem to transmit with more power on VHF than UHF, which is understand is pretty common.

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