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Couple quick pics. Ignore the body damage.. it my offroader.

That's great if it works for him. All antennas, even the no ground plane antennas, will benefit from a ground plane. That being said. Plenty of ground plane antennas still work with a less than optimal ground plane underneath.

I used the Diamond SG7900 on my truck where the ground plane is practically nonexistent and it works fine. I bought it because DX Engineering said it didn't need a ground plane, and then found out it is actually a ground plane antenna, but I'm not going to argue with success. It's one of the options I'll suggest to my friend.

Thanks! I feared that might be the case.

Those are all useful options. I'll show them to the owner.

One of the reasons I always go with an NMO mount is so I can remove the antenna for car washes. Full disclosure: It's not my vehicle; I'm helping a friend figure out what to do.

Definitely don't overcomplicate things. Either use the existing fuses where they are at or move them closer to the battery. I have yet to burn up any wires or blow fuses even when talking for a long time with any of my 50 watt dual band and GMRS radios. And I run them on high power all of the time.

I wouldn't put 2 fuses, but i would relocate the one that came with it to no more than 18 inches from the battery. The closer, the better.

Jeezus... Stop trying to over-complicate everything and use the damn fuses that came with it.

I am installing the new Btech GMRS 50PRO in my truck. A general rule of thumb is to install fuses about 6 inches from the connection to the battery. However, the fuses on the radio I got come hardwired six inches from the radio and not on the extended cable it comes with. My question, is do I add extra fuses in line next to the battery on top of the fuses that come with the unit, or do I just use the fuses that come with the unit itself, despite them being so far away from the car battery?

Here's three options for the Jeep. The lip mount on the hood is a Laird Lip-Mount and Phantom antenna, and does not need anything special. This Phantom antenna is used for UHF DMR. The mount on the driver's side near the A pillar is a Laird non- ground plane for VHF and the mount is a Rugged Radios mount. The glass-mount on the rear glass is a Larsen and used for UHF. I get great performance with the glass-mount antenna. All of these options can apply to the Gladiator. The Midland antennae are great if you are just transmitting on GMRS freqs. If you are transmitting on a mix of GMRS and Business Radio Service freqs use the Lairds and Larsen antennae, do use any of the HAM crap stuff.

Fiber or fabric roof. That's not an option. For a fiber roof, mounting some type if reflector for a ground plane doesn't work. The material is too thick for it to be inside and it's ribbed up top, which adds a whole new level of aggravation.

If you are mounting an antenna that large, i would drill a hole in the top of the bed rail over the tail light and hard-mount a UHF mount. (Or NMO). The only other option would be to use a lip mount on the hood. Something like this... ot the Diamond version. https://www.cometantenna.com/product/coment-hd-5m-heavy-duty-rs-840-lip-mount-w-dlx-166-coax-gold-uhf-conns/ I'll take a couple pictures of mine in about an hour and show you what I have (both) for GMRS and Amateur Radio

If you do choose a ground plane antenna, mount it to the center of the roof. That’s the single most effective place to mount an antenna, but it brings with it other challenges: is the roof metal? If not you’ll need a sheet of metal to provide the ground plane. Is the roof strong enough to withstand the vibration of the mount and antenna? Do you go through car washes? Etc.

i used a cowl mount on my JK that worked well. Check out Cool-Tech, i belive that have one for the Gladiator.

I used to use ARC but i lost my account access when i retired 3 years ago.. Now i use a KML version of this data base for repeater access info etc, which also works great on the mobile app.

A mount on the spare tire is popular. You will want to use an antenna that does not require a ground plane with the spare mount for best performance. All antennas are a compromise, the trick is to decide which compromise you can live with and still get the performance you want.

What's a good antenna mount for the 2025 Jeep Gladiator Mojave? IIRC, the hood is aluminum, so it should provide a decent ground plane, but the way the hood wraps down toward the fender makes me wonder if a regular hood lip mount will work. Does it need something special? Is a hood lip mount even the best way to go? I'm planning to put a 52" antenna on it, so it needs to be sturdy.

I’ve used ArcGIS Earth for that (and line sight analysis)—I’m more suggesting a compass-style feature for the app for when traveling, to quickly discern if programming the tones in the mobile is worth it given mountains possible in the way.

Big 'Pop' vs small 'Pop' .. Love Shooting and i love Parump, my Ammo Depot

That's only 3 paragraphs! Dont worry, the 10 paragraph answer will come.

And here it is. Antennas are tuned to specific frequencies. When they’re used at frequencies other than those they’re tuned for, the results are usually bad. Also, the cable used for a CB antenna is usually very lossy at GMRS frequencies. So, as Randy said, no.

Short answer: NO Someone will come along shortly with the 10-paragraph longer answer but it will say basically the same thing.

maximum pew vs minimum pew

We run separate duplexers with all of our repeaters. The repeaters and duplexers are all mounted in a server rack so no coax going between the repeaters and duplexers are not longer than 2 feet, most are closer to 12-18 inches in length. If the cables are going to longer than 3 feet then definitely go with coax that has less loss since you are going to always lose some power after the duplexers.