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SteveShannon reacted to a post in a topic: Linking GMRS Repeaters
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GrouserPad reacted to a post in a topic: Linking GMRS Repeaters
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No, it’s extremely easy with no checking. I did it by mistake (I cannot claim an accident; it was my own ignorance) They both appear in my ULS account. Once I realized my old FRN still existed I simply used it, but the other one still exists.
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GrouserPad reacted to a post in a topic: Linking GMRS Repeaters
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The219 reacted to a post in a topic: retevis RA87
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Yeah, the radio doesn't get the love that some of the Wouxuns and other fairly popular models get. But it's really pretty solid. Very close to the full 40w across the GMRS range (within, say, 5% in my most recent testing). Good sound quality. I kind of wish that it had more than six character channel labels. I like the "left" and "right" side option; I set the left up for scanning repeaters, and set the right up for the channels my family is most likely to use, as well as for open scanning. Signal reports are favorable, though that has a lot to do with the antenna and geography. It has some quirks. From the front panel you can only swap between low and high power. But within chirp there are five power options. I usually set "medium" power in the programming using Chirp, knowing that I can push the power button to get to high if I need it, for example. But I've been using it about a year now in my dusty old Bronco and it has held up great.
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GrouserPad reacted to a post in a topic: Linking GMRS Repeaters
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GrouserPad reacted to a post in a topic: Linking GMRS Repeaters
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Thankfully all laws (and rules) are moral and good... (I actually think that not linking repeaters on GMRS is a good rule. But rules are only as good as the enforcement thereof. If no one's going to enforce it....)
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WRYZ926 reacted to an answer to a question: High Voltage
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I agree. Actually, I put a 15 second time delay relay (rated at 30 Amps) on the power lead to my radio, so it will not get power until 15 seconds after the vehicle is started. The relay turns off power when the ignition it turned off, so this idea will work even with a radio that does not have an 'automatic shutoff' feature, and can save the battery. Just need to find a switched 12V line that is only active when the ignition is "on."
- Today
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WRTC928 reacted to a post in a topic: Baofeng BF-888s for GMRS
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WRTC928 reacted to a post in a topic: Trying to renew a long expired license
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Socalgmrs reacted to a post in a topic: Linking GMRS Repeaters
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It's not that people don't seem to understand, it's simply 'they don't give a rat's A$$.. They seem to think there will be no consquences so they do what they do. Maybe they listen to 'some people' reinforcing their thoughts. Whatever it is,, Linking is gong to be around for a long time.. What i think is funny though, when someone sets up a new repeater in area these linking guys operate, hogging all the bandwidth and the new guy has no choice but to use one of the frequencies the linker is using and it pisses the linker operator off.. Thats when you offer the Linker a sand box. Ok. Carry On,,,,,
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only if your created another FRN in your name which i think would be difficult if the information is the exact same. The FCC would have flagged that letting you know you can't create a duplicate FRN... If you have two FRN's in your name then i would say something like name spelling, address etc is different between the two.
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Yet, MOST Still don't seem to understand WHY linking on this band is a BAD idea ! I'll explain it AGAIN, for those who Don't understand ... it's called Bandwidth !! You don't have enough to do this without interfering with other users on the Same band !! You have HOW many channel pairs ?? 8, EIGHT of them !! That's it !! If you start linking More than One pair, then your preventing someone Else from using that pair, out side of your range !! WHY the hell should anyone have to listen to the SAME conversation on More than one pair ??? GMRS is NOT and was Never intended to be Long range, more than 30 -50 miles. IF you Want that kind of range, then WORK for it, and take the Test and get your Amateur Radio License where Linked repeaters are Legal, because there's PLENTY of Bandwidth !! Ok, Rant mode Off ...
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Ahh, but there's the rub. Who's definition of wrong. Most would say violating the law is wrong
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WSHX450 joined the community
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If you give it a try, let me know what you think.
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Check your inbox
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How many across states under the same call sight? Just curious.
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Good idea. And a new voltage regulator should fix it. You definitely don't have to worry about computer modules always on and putting a constant drain on the system with a vehicle of that age.
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tracieok joined the community
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Ah, you too. My employee number at work is 666. Don’t know if that’s lucky or not.
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OK, today was the big day. I got my buddy to bring over the bucket truck. I had already made up the antenna with the cable as you all know. 1st thing to do was get the existing antenna down. So up to the lightning arrestor and cut off the water protection. Used a set of channel locks to undo the N connector. Didn't see anything that would be a water issue in there. So up the mast I went in the bucket clipping off the tie wraps as I gained altitude. Got to the antenna and loosened the nuts on the U bolt and removed the antenna. Back down to the ground. 2nd thing was to put up the guy wire system. I used a triple clamp designed for 1 1/2" mast and attached 1/8" stainless steel cable using loop thimbles and aluminum double barrel sleeves. Crimped them up using 2 sleeves. One tight against the thimble and one about 1 1/2" away where the sleeve hid the end of the cable to make it prick proof. Had 50' of cable on each of the 3 legs which I knew was more than enough. I also knew it wouldn't be too short. Up in the bucket again and mounted it about 2' from the top of the mast and opened up the looped cable and let it hang down. Back to the ground again. 3rd thing was bring up the antenna. All the way to the top this time and mounted the antenna using the U bolts that came with it. And slowly went down to unfurl the cable. Forgot to bring the tie wraps up, crap. Back down to fetch them and back up and tied the coax off about every 10" with two tie wraps at each spacing. Then to the bottom to attach into the lightning arrestor. Put the heat shrink tubing on, ya.. didn't forget LOL. And used the self fusing tape to seal the joint. Slipped the tubing over it and hit it with the heat gun at 700ºF. Back down again. 4th.. Went into the house to pull the trigger. Hit my repeater and it came back with a good signal. Hit the Holyoke repeater which I could barely do lately and I got a response from a friend that I was Lima Charley (loud and clear) which I haven't been in 6 months. SWR on my repeater frequency was 1.01. Switched to Channel 22 and the SWR was 1.00, fantastic. 5th I got the 5/16" stainless steel turnbuckles and crimping equipment and tied off one side to take the slight lean out of the antenna that I've had ever since a wind gust bent my chimney mount a bit. I put 2 more straps on and lengthened the mast 8' and tied it into the chimney with a wood working clamp which stabilized it quite a bit. The guy wire straightened out the slight lean. Had to install a screw eye that I needed the bucket to do (or a ladder, but why I had the bucket truck here) I pulled out one of the long nails holding up my gutter and put a 3/8"x8" eye hook with a PVC ferrule and it hit good. Very secure, I was worried it's be a rotted pc under the aluminum siding. But I hit a roof rafter end. Tied that off with the guy wire and crimped everything up. Time was up for the bucket truck and he went on his merry way. I gave him a pair of the TD-H3s for the help and a bit more. 6th .. One more guy wire to tie off and I just moved my truck into position and stood on my tool box and secured the guy wire and turnbuckle. Pretty much completed the job. Took about 3 hours, 2 1/2 with the bucket truck. Still have to clean up all the little tie wrap clippings. That'll be a job for tomorrow. Have to paint the blocks I put in to secure the eye hooks sometime soon.
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Thank You, Sir!
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Man oh man what are we going to do with you two. Only 12 donuts and a 24 pack of beer for all of us. Fer shame Fer shame Fer shame.
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Thanks everyone for the responses the vehicle in question is a 1994 ford f-150 and I could kick myself in the hind end for not thinking about the voltage regulator, I am also a small engine mechanic and should have figured that one out. I reckon my old age is starting show. Again Thanks to everyone for the help, I'll be getting a voltage regulator tomorrow and putting it on. WSEK643
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I have a pair of them which I got as a freebee when I bought some stuff from Temu. I haven't done anything with them, but I had the thought of doing exactly what you did. I probably will at some point.
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Some of us pack heat and lie about vacations we never take.
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Ok, I'm with you on that one.
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Damn, and I only brought a 24 pack of beer.
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Good people. I've been dealing with them for years.
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I'd have to wonder if the OP's battery is deteriorating and causing the high voltage as the regulator is trying to charget. No matter, the whole system should be checked. Here, we have a "Battery Warehouse" battery store that provides free testing of both the battery and charging system - takes 10 minutes while you wait.
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yes but its not clearly written and I was not able to find much as far as setting for the RA87 online. some reviews here and there and some tutorials on how to set two up as a repeater but not much else. @WSHM765 Press the "FUN" button on the face then the "MHZ" button on the face and scroll to "MDF" its "menu #16" press the "MHZ" button on the face again turn the dial to"MN" then press the the "MHZ" button on the face to lock it in. you have to do it to both "sides" of the display.
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Squelch Won't Break Consistently Using DTCS Tone
WSGU500 replied to WSGU500's question in Technical Discussion
So far, using CTCSS is working well. I even added a new HT into the mix today and preliminary tests on it were successful. I appreciate everyone's input on this subject.