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I haven’t seen any reports here of the Db20g failing. I have two of them. One I opened up and connected to a Comet dual band SB5 antenna. I use it for 2 meter and 70 cm in my 4Runner. The other is factory configured for GMRS and is connected to a Midland MXTA26 GMRS antenna in my pickup. Neither have acted up. For the price they seem very capable little radios.

I just tested the power output on 146.940 MHz of my dB20g and the radio, which is rated for 20 watts on GMRS, put out a solid 30 watts. I had to double check it, but that’s what it said. I wish now that I had another wattmeter for VHF to compare.

This is the funniest F*king thread i've seen in a long time. You guys are a great resource for me!

They could, but that’s their right. Not to intentionally interfere of course, but as @wrci350 said:

Well, like it or not, FRS users have just as much right to those 22 channels as GMRS users. Unless the FCC can go back in time and not ever allow those FRS/GMRS bubblepack radios, we're stuck with sharing. As far as repeaters go, if you run with both transmit and receive tones on a repeater you'll never hear someone using an FRS radio unless they happen to pick the same tone as what you are using on the output, correct? You are right about the "everyone can hear you" part, and it's not just kids who don't understand that.

Contrary to what a number of YT'ers have reported, the power output from my AT-779UV was at or slightly above the rated power. I've had it since last June ('22) and it runs most every night as I drive out town after supper. I like the little bugger!

Just want a nice clean desk. I have a remote head radio and keep the radio and power supply up and away from me to keep fan noise down a bit but also rules out the internal speaker. Right now I'm using a old TEAC desktop stereo speaker tucked behind the monitor. I needed to blow $20 at DX Engineering to get free shipping on a order and picked up one of their $20 external radio speakers. What a joke - my HT speaker sounds better. Guess you get what you pay for.

I just recently got a KG1000G+ as well. I get excellent audio reports with it. I think a lot of non radio folks hold their radio/mics to close. Kids on FRS are really bad about this. Overload the mics so bad you can hardly understand a word they say.

Nice old jeep by the way...

I had mine on a 1979 Buick Lesabre four-door red hardtop. Ground straps on all the doors and hood trunk lid SWR stayed around 1.6 on 20. Still have the radio... good old Midland. From St Paul Mn to darn near Hudson Wi WRXD808

What consitutes "a while"? I had to check my Amazon orders for dates on my two anytones... one was late February 2022, the other was mid March 2022. The February one has been in the old car unlocked for ham use the whole time, and seems to be going strong...it's on almost every time I drive the car , and often rag chew on mid power for the 30 mins drive to and from work. The one in the truck replaced a mxt115 and gets less use, but the occasional use it gets is usually on high power (nearest active repeaters are ~60 miles out)...going strong there as well. That said, it's not out of the realm of possibility that I got lucky, and later examples went downhill, or just some bad quality control let some with issues slip through. QC is one corner that often gets cut to meet a low price point. I'd also wonder about the usage on the ones that died...I'm not the most long winded on air ?

Thank you . This was the solution.. It has a weird USB Network adapter, and required a fixed IP which I could not alter, and which conflicted with a fixed IP device on my network. I unplugged the network cable from my computer, and it allowed me to connect to the repeater ? I programmed a single mixed mode channel. thanks dan

More like a ? Deadpool. ?

I found another Ghost antenna for you -- Should work as well as the one you have.

In the menu, click on Staff and then click on @rdunajewski. As far as I know he is the owner and administrator. Or you can simply report your own post and it will eventually attract the attention of a moderator.

WHAT! You're giving up 500W?

It's even simpler. Just start up the software - and in the top level menu items - select "view" choices should be something like basic / expert. Select expert. Now you see all the options for rear accessory connector & CWID. The built in Help files in the CPS are worthwhile - even if they are somewhat cryptic.