berkinet

It all depends on what you are trying to achieve. https://forums.mygmrs.com/topic/1977-a-word-on-antennas/

Take a look at this thread... https://forums.mygmrs.com/topic/1977-a-word-on-antennas/

Isn’t there also a higher powered version of that radio?

The term legal is a misnomer. The correct question would be: is a given radio certified for GMRS operation. The specific requirement is stated in Part-95E § 95.1761 GMRS transmitter certification. (a) Each GMRS transmitter (a transmitter that operates or is intended to operate in the GMRS) must be certified in accordance with this subpart... If your radio is not GMRS certified then you are in violation of the rules. However, you are no more, or less, in violation than you would be if you did not properly identify. Nobody can or should tell you it is ok to violate the rules, that is a decision you have to make for your self. However, I will tell you that many people have chosen to use high-quality non-GMRS certified (but often certified to the more stringent Part 90) equipment. I will also say, that there is no recorded case of anyone ever having been cited or punished for running Part-90 equipment on GMRS. In fact, there are no know citations for running any non-certified equipment on GMRS. What I would advise is to always run quality equipment maintained in good working order and operate that equipment in accordance with the GMRS regulations.

Honestly, I think the answer to the original question has been given in the posts above. Keep the CB to 4W, and keep the antennas as far apart as possible, but not some multiple of a 1/4 wave length on the GMRS band*. Trying to optimize the situation by antenna switching, adding dummy loads, or anything else is only going to add complexity and increase the chances of failure, without adding any benefit. * 1/4 wave is roughly 6.30 (467.725 mHz) to 6.37" (462.725 mHz) for the GMRS band. So, use some number midway, like 6.335" and give your self 1/2" distance around that: 5.85 " to 6.85" So, avoid distances like 23.4 - 24.4, 29.25 - 30.25, etc

Well, there are other options, especially if you would consider used equipment and possibly Part 90 gear. Motorola (which I use) is excellent, but getting the programming software can be an issue. OTOH, there are a lot of other quality brands out there and many have been reviewed on the MyGMRS forum. Take a look around. Also, Maybe someone will suggest something here as well with a large channel capacity.

Sure, it just needs someone to start it. Rich can make it sticky if it gets enough information. Abut, there are 2 considerations. 1) similar ideas in the past have fizzled because the people who have the skills and knowledge needed are not the ones who will benefit. And, 2) There are A LOT of UHF radios out there. In many cases two or three identical looking radios will have very different specs. Also, especially for used equipment, it can take some effort to research each radio you find on ebay. Just as an exercise, look into Motorola P1225 HTs. You will find a huge number of models that offer differing: channels, interfaces, displays, bands and technology (trunking vs non-trunking). Each variant has its own unique model number and even then you find some radios that shouldn’t exist. Like a 16 channel non-trunking UHF radio with LCD display and 16 button keypad.

This is exactly why people look for Part 90 and older Part 95 radios that have greater internal channel assignment capacities. Some new Part 95 radios may do this, but they are usually not as flexible.

Separate conductors also are much better at heat dissipation. Important in the event of a long-term overload that does not trip the breaker.

We purchased a house built in 1929 that had been partially “upgraded” with bulldog breakers. Half the house was still on fused knob and tube wiring. I immediately changed out the main panel. Still have the fused knob and tube. Looks like hell but actually safer than Romex.

In theory, yes. However in practice it’s not so clear. The transmitting radio will desensitized the receiver if it’s too close. You may need to move several feet away, maybe 10 or 20 feet or further. But, give it a try and see what happens.

Talk to others directly, radio-to-radio. If there is nobody to talk to, then a repeater won't help.

in fact, since the last update of the GMRS regulations, there are no more radios that are both FRS and GMRS certified. Either one or the other. Therefore, if you buy a GMRS radio, regardless of anything else you may or may not do to it, you must, according to the rules, follow GMRS regulations. of course, has Marc notes, there is absolutely nobody listening to see if you are identifying correctly. And, even if someone were to report improper identification, there is no one in the FCC who really cares.

Very nicely stated. In life sometimes there are some questions that are best left unanswered, giving us a long time to think about them.

Or mom!

At its heyday, CB was a social event, the Internet of its time. People bought CB radios because they didn't want to miss out on what was happening. CB was the end, not the means to an end. I would guess that a huge percentage of CB radios were trashed within a month of purchase. As you summarized from the responses to your original post in this thread, people get into GMRS to support some end that exists outside of "radio." So, the picture to me is any group of people engaging in some activity, which could just be their daily lives, who have a need for simple, reliable communications to support that activity.

You asked why I got into GMRS. You did not ask if it should be promoted, or on what basis. Perhaps you should also be asking that question as well... Do you feel GMRS should or could be promoted, and if so, how? Personally, I see no need to promote the service. The reasons described above all relate to benefits provided to some activity or another. So, promote the activity. But, I see no point in just encouraging the salles of more GMRS radios and the issuance of more GMRS licenses.

There is no doubt Powerwerx crimper will work well. But, if all you want too crimp is Powerpoles they are all pretty much ok. The main differences are exchangeability of the crimping dies and whether they ratchet or not. You definitely want a ratcheting crimper. OTOH. The kit is nice and if you continue the radio hobby/addiction, you will get full value from your purchase.

Because GMRS is a service that exists for one simple purpose, providing voice communications in the local area, with a very low barrier to entry. Note, there are people who try to turn GMRS into a sort of mini amateur radio, and there are amateurs, who try to build a pseudo-GMRS service for friends and family. But, in the end each service has its own intended applications and it’s own reason for existence and that’s why I am licensed in both

Most crimpers for Powerpoles cost around $30. They are all pretty much equal though, I would really avoid the cheap ones. If you make a mid wire connection, that is four crimps, and your cost has suddenly dropped to $7.50 per crimp. One more similar connection and it’s down to $3.75. And so on. Plus, It is hard to put a price on the value you get from, the convenience of being able to make the connection at home without having to get in the car and drive to the store, which might not even be open when you need it.

Thanks for the pictures. However, I am still a little confused. Are you asking a general question about connecting to a power supply or are you asking about help with a specific power supply you own? Since you asked about eyelet connectors that slip over a threaded rod and are held in place by a nut or some type, then the answer is: you need to measure the outside diameter of the bolt. The bolt size may vary by power supply amperage. Also, there are variations in thread (coarse vs fine) and, of course, Metric vs Imperial. As for the connectors, I tend to buy the uninsulated ones and then first crimp, then solder the wire in place. After that, I put a bit of shrink tubing over the crimp ferrule. Banana plugs are, I believe, all nominally the same size. Which means, they all probably vary a bit. You may have to bend the plugs a bit, or find another brand. And, finally, if you buy a set of cheap alligator clip jumpers be prepared to solder all the cheap crimp connections. Better, don't buy cheap connectors at all. The savings in minimal and the cost can be excessive.

Depending in how you look at it, there is either no standard for power supply connectors or there are several standards. Could you post a picture, or a link?

Hmmm.Somebody is dating themself

Good points. Although, the wiring can be resolved by using Anderson Powerpole connectors on everything. BTW, I would suggest this anyway as you never know what you want to move at some point, put on the test bench, etc. As for radios which fit the same brackets, there is kind of a bizarreness to doing that when one radio is a complete superset of the other. In other words, why swap out a GMRS only radio for a ham rig that can also do GMRS. Well, there is the compliance issue. Though I am pretty sure most people with ham and GMRS licenses would be willing to take the risk in trade for having only one radio.

I think you will find that swapping radios into and out of a vehicle is, in fact, not a common experience. It is a bit similar to my wife's attitude (since revised) that she only had to take her cell phone when she was going to it. It seems to me that in today's world, most use of personal radio services (I.e. non-business/official), like GMRS, ham, FRS, MURS, & CB, is unessential. With the general ubiquity of mobile phone service, personal radio plays a different role. We use it for fun and to add value to our daily lives. So, if you like contacting people via any given service, you will probably want to have that radio handy at all times. However, if you are, in fact, in a situation where a given service is essential, then you would certainly want to have it always available. All of which is to say, I think most people add rather than swap radio installations in their vehicle (or home for that matter). And, besides that, unlike car radios, two-way radio mounting hardware tends to be designed for a specific radio (size, fastener placement, etc.) and swaping is not an option.