WRZM243

Repeaters use two frequencies. The higher one is your transmit and the repeaters receive frequency while the repeater broadcasts on the lower which is your receive. Depending on the simplex frequency it could cause interference.

Feedline is another important consideration. If your going to be under 50' good LMR400 with the proper connectors will work well for your application. You want cable to be minimum length needed to get to the antenna and surge arrestor and not use adapters. 

After being a rigger aboard ships in the US Navy, we had static suppressors to keep the St Elmo's Fire effect from occurring on the masts and antennas all over the ship ... 
BUT - a lightning arrester is kinda a hoax in that you have a bolt of electricity that has traveled miles to your antenna and has a gazillion volts in it and a small spark-gap device is going to take that charge away from your equipment?! No way! 
 
If you get hit by lightning, I don't really think any of your gear - let alone the place where it sits - is going to survive. 
 
Your results may differ - but don't count on it.

Just use a lightning arrestor like this one on the antenna feed line. If you had a tower, you would want to ground that.

Here’s a pretty good document that describes what the National Electrical Code requires:
https://reeve.com/Documents/Articles Papers/Reeve_AntennaSystemGroundingRequirements.pdf

So how did the static suppressors work on the masts and antennas on the ship and why wouldn’t that work on land?
A direct strike to your antenna probably would be a very bad day, but a properly grounded gas tube surge suppressor near your entry point, as well as other measures, such as single point grounding of devices that are connected along the coax, adequately grounding your tower, and placing lightning rods higher on your tower than your antenna, can help prevent a direct strike in the first place.  Before lightning strikes, a static charge often begins building up.  A gas tube surge arrester can help avert the conditions that can lead to a “direct strike” by allowing that static electricity to dissipate more easily to ground rather than building up.  I suspect the static suppression on-ship worked similarly.  
No single measure is perfect, but many thousands of professionally designed repeater installations survive storms annually (and some die).
Of course you folks in Hamilton never get storms, right?
Welcome to the forum!
Steve, in Butte, where gallows frames serve as lightning rods.
 
 
 
 

Oh, this should be fun... 🍿

I have both a Comet 712 EFC and a Commscope DB404 and my repeater is a Motorola GR500 (I also have a few GR1225's) I don't understand why, but the Comet is performing better but either of those would be a good choice. Both so far have held up to some good winds. Some gusts over 50mph
 

I use the DB404 and 408 but those are a bit big for your application. The TRAM is the economical way to get it up but requires tuning and care on installation. I like the Laird FG Series of antennas for applications like yours. The FG4605 is a solid LMR antenna and you only connect the cable and install. No tuning and no radials to worry about. I used the FG4603 and FG4600 on my Motorohome for years. 
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-laird/FG4605/3519995
 

I used a Comet GP-6NC at a similar height. It worked decently, however, it snapped in half in a high wind storm.

You aren't going to cover a large area with an antenna that's that high off the ground. The Tram is a decent choice, but the antenna needs to be tuned to the frequencies your repeater will be using for best results.

I use a Tram 1486 on my repeater.. Its not very expensive, it has a very low wind-profile and it does not look like some kind of space-antenna on the roof.
EDIT: .. and it is very easy to tune for GMRS.
 

Thank you... I was able to get this taken care of... I appreciate your response... Steve