Surfer59840

OK --- I see the suffix options in Chirp, but without it, trying to program the HTs on the keyboard --- nope; all you get is "N"s. Sooooooooooooooooo .... I'll try to understand what I just learned. Thanks --- there will be more questions someday.

As I was waiting for your response, I went -a-scrolling through all the settings for DCS and around-and-around it went and got to D754I again (3 times) --- it always ran through nothing but the suffix "I". I think I'll fire up Chirp and see what it allows me to do on my end.

Perhaps I misspoke --- the radio (mine) is the Baofeng GM-15PRO. I have 4, actually, and they all talk very well with each other on CTCSS or DCS. I also run a repeater and they can work the repeater too. This is not the problem. When I try to talk with a buddy - simplex with digital codes/DCS over a range that I have talked with no CTCSS or DCS - 8 miles no problem. My radio allows me to directly go to a scroll-up/down with a long stack of alpha-numeric titles. The DCS I've chosen for mine is D754I (that's an "I", not a one (1). My buddy's TIDRADIOs - (no model available at the mo') - only have as his digital values, things that all end in "N" and he can see: D754N. They will not talk together although I can hit his squelch as noted by the green light on top of his radio, but the screen never lights up as it would with any other communication going on and he cannot hear me at all - even if he holds his squelch gate open. I hope I made this clear as I am very confused right now.

I know this is a zombie post, but I need to know how to toggle an HT from "I" suffix to "N" suffix in the DCS codes for my Baofeng GM15PRO. The numbers are in a list where you can select the one you want, but these radios are all "I" suffixes eg: D105I, although that may not be a true value --- just for approximation.

After being a rigger aboard ships in the US Navy, we had static suppressors to keep the St Elmo's Fire effect from occurring on the masts and antennas all over the ship ... BUT - a lightning arrester is kinda a hoax in that you have a bolt of electricity that has traveled miles to your antenna and has a gazillion volts in it and a small spark-gap device is going to take that charge away from your equipment?! No way! If you get hit by lightning, I don't really think any of your gear - let alone the place where it sits - is going to survive. Your results may differ - but don't count on it.

As the owner of 4 Midland mobiles right now (3 MXT275 - 1 MXT575) I admit I had some hesitation with trying to program them on the fly - which isn't easy because they use their own metrics and it's just confusing. That said - if you can stop and watch what you're doing and have that chart with you to make the changes, I guess one could get along that way. I tend to use my own repeater and just stick with it and the TX/RX CTCSS tones on everything. HTH - Joe - WRQJ422

I know this is a Zombie - but I have the same static bursts all the time on my new MXT575 with the new or old microphone. It seems to do this for an hour and then stops. I've tried changing the wire attachment points from directly on the battery to the first power relay box from the factory. Vehicle: 2005 Chevy Trail Blazer - Engine 4.2 Liter L6 - Model: EXT (extended wheelbase). I have a few GMRS HTs and when they are in the same vehicle, they are stone-quiet while the MXT575 goes nuts. I can sit under the repeater antenna (it's mine and it operates normally for everyone else) and still get the squelch-breaking in cycles, lighting up the green "Receive" light The ONLY cyclical devices on this vehicle that run ON-OFF for a while are the oxygen sensor heaters, but I ran my OBD-2 scanner and these do not operate in the same time period, nor cyclic-rate as the noise in the radio. I'm beginning to see that there are not just a few people experiencing the same trouble with the MXT575s, and I have MXT275s in three other vehicles and they work correctly and are not doing the same thing. I feel it's a bad cap or circuit in the radio base itself and it has to be hitting Midland with a bunch of complaints by now. Has anyone figured out a repair or way to make this stop acting up? Joe - WRQJ422 .