Lscott

While I'm not a big fan of Anytone radios, based on my bad past experience with the D878UV's firmware and programming software bugs, The new D890UV looks interesting. Might be worth at least a look. https://www.wouxun.us/item.php?item_id=488&category_id=64 What caught my eye in addition to being a DMR radio looks like they "plan" on adding a second digital mode to it, NXDN. This could spark more interest in this digital voice mode. I already have a bunch of Kenwood NX-200 and NX-300 radios for NXDN. Also the Kenwood NX-1200 and NX-1300 radios, DMR and a few with NXDN, can run either one depending on which one is "activated" and the mode specific firmware loaded. https://forums.mygmrs.com/gallery/image/290-nx-1300duk5/?context=new https://forums.mygmrs.com/gallery/image/251-nx-300jpg/?context=new And this is an example of a mobile NXDN radio. https://forums.mygmrs.com/gallery/image/250-nx-820ghjpg/ The D890 radio would compete with Kenwood's NX-3000 series, which allows both modes, but it's code plug specific. You can only run one digital mode in the code plug at a time. It would be interesting to see if the D890 allows the use of BOTH in the same code plug. I'm sure a few would have preferred P25 Phase 1 with DMR. However DMR and NXDN use the same basic modulation type, 4FSK, so that reduces the complexity. Whereas P25 Phase 1 uses C4FM.

Which by then might be gone.

If you're looking to go for the Extra class, or just for general knowledge, the attached files on VERY basic electronics maybe interesting. At some point you may find it necessary to try and make some basic repairs, or modifications, on equipment so having an idea what all those basic parts do can come in handy. Starting Electronics - 3rd Edition Brindley.pdf Basic Electronics.pdf

If you need to build a power supply for it. The voltage drops can get significant. If your using a full wave bridge rectifier you have two diodes in series so the total voltage drop can be closer 1.4 volts. So, if the transformer output voltage is a bit on the low side the extra drop due to the diodes can put you at or below the lower voltage spec, after filtering, for the radio. Also diodes are used to isolate parallel solar panels. That keeps any shaded panels from shorting out the the current from other panels. Some higher power panels have diodes bridged across part of the series string of cells to guard against hot spotting. Yes panels can develop what is called hot spotting from partial shading, or bad cells, which in some extreme cases may even result in fires. Then you have blocking diodes between charge controller and battery. You find diodes are used in places you wouldn't expect that can result in mysterious voltage drops.

Those radios look a bit like this TYT model I’ve played with.

Yeah, something like this.

Maybe. There are some radio clubs that don’t charge an exam fee. You can check around your area see if there are any. My buddy tells me where he lives, about 50 miles away in another town, the club there doesn’t charge an exam fee.

I have a collection of each type. Never know what one might need.

One has to pass a test to get a license. That also means at least do the basic research, read the rules and follow established band plans. These sort of questions are a bit disappointing when licensed operators know better. US Amature Band Plan 2020.pdf

They can. In fact the radio I use frequently for Ham and GMRS has Part 90 and 95 certifications. Ham has no transmit certification. The problem is if any significant design changes/upgrades are made to the radio the manufacture has to pay for the testing for all of the previous FCC parts. Most are to lazy and also don't want to spend the money. The last one comes down to market share. Some of the services are not popular enough for a major manufacture to bother with designing and getting the required certification. Don't forget they are also looking at selling the same radio in different markets around the world, many with significant differences in requirements. Just look at Kenwood's NX-1300 series. By tweaking the frequency range, maybe antennas, and loading different versions of the firmware they sell a "distinct" product around the world using one underlying hardware design. Including more bands just makes it even more complex when changes are required. https://comms.kenwood.com/common/pdf/download/NX1K_Specsheet_K.pdf https://www.kenwood.com/sg/com/lfr/tk-3701d_pmr446/pdf/TK-3701D_Brochure_SG_Market.pdf https://www.kenwood.com/au/com/lmr/tk-3710/pdf/TK-3710_CB_LMR Portable.pdf

Simple answer is NO. For example my Ham call is the same exact one since I was first licensed as a Tech. I've since upgraded to an Extra class level and left my call sign the same. I have zero interest in changing it. Oh, you can't tell which radio "district" a Ham lives in now either, based on the number in the call sign. The FCC lets you move clear across the country and keep the same call. Oops.

That's when ideals get mugged by reality.

Yeah, you can try using one of those orange fiberglass marker poles sold at the hardware store stuck in a hole in the case. Then zip tie a simple ladder line J-Pole antenna to it. No ground plane required. If the area has trees you can simply hang the antenna from it for better range. https://n9taxlabs.com/shop/ols/products/dual-band-murs-gmrs-slim-jim-with-10-or-16-foot-cable https://vfcomms.com/shop/antenna/fara-j/fara-j-antenna-for-gmrs/?v=0b3b97fa6688

My understanding is these guys got picked off really fast.

Anything with a huge whip antenna was the first target.

Then you look at the spec's, particularly the output power, for the old WWII "man-pack" radios. Most of the old WWII radios were still in active use during the Korean war too. The radios used in Vietnam were a bit better. Imagine what a modern VHF/UHF HT would have done for them back then. Scary when you understand people were literally betting their lives on this equipment. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCR-300 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN/PRC-77_Portable_Transceiver

I think your power budget is way under unless your usage on the radios will only be a few hours per day. Before you start purchasing hardware I strongly suggest you do a power consumption analysis using a realistic duty cycle on the radios. also being up in Idaho the usable number of sun-hours in the fall, I assume is when you'll be hunting, will only be a few hours per day. The definition for "sun-hours" is the solar radiation over the course of a day, which varies from morning until night, and assumes it a fixed value at the max for a given number of hours. This makes the calculations easier. See a sample for charts for Michigan where I'm at. It's shocking to see the difference between summer and winter. It's not uncommon for solar installations to over produce during the summer and way under produce during the winter. I was going to build a small portable solar power system for field use with a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery. The attached calculations I did because I wanted some idea of what the likely endurance would be. The calculations are a bit more detailed than what you would need to do. I went a bit overboard with it. Michigan Cities Solar Radiation Data.pdf Renogy RNG-50D 50 Watt - System Sizing Rev 3C.pdf Renogy RNG-50D Latest.pdf

Sounds like you did your homework on this project. There are charts for breaker operating time and fuse clearing time based on over current. If you want a deeper dive you can try to obtain those for the specific items you have and check the time delays based on your max fault current. That would be the best way to ensure the system will function as you expect. I've attached some sample fuse datasheets for those interested to see what they look like and they have the arc clearing times curves. I don't have any sample breaker datasheets. Most of what we use were I work are simple disconnect switches inline with high speed "semiconductor" type fuses. The few "breakers" we have used are based on magnetic overload detection. A lot of the small breakers use thermal overloads. Those you have to watch and make sure they will trip before the fuses open. Of course fuses are strictly thermal overload detection based too. Bussmann JJN 300Vac, 1-1200A, Fast-Acting Fuses.pdf FKS ATO - 80V.pdf

One practical note. You should keep a copy of your license in your wallet and or your vehicle. Some states are really picky about having a "scanner" in a vehicle, some cops aren't the sharpest tool in the shed, and may assume your radio is a "scanner" particularly if it's scanning when they walk up to your window. As far as I know most, if not all states, have a specific exception for Ham's, not for GMRS users to my knowledge, which allows scanners in a vehicle. It helps to have a copy of your license and a print out of the exact section in your state's motor vehicle code. It might save you some grief when a dumb cop wants to confiscate your radio, or worse.

DMR is one of several digital voice modes that isn't the easiest to build code plugs for. It can be a rather long and tedious process. Then you have to go back and double, triple, check the various entries for errors. I'm not sure how you organized your code plug but I found using a separate "zone" for each repeater and one memory slot for each talk group, slot number and or color code on the repeater worked well for me. Most radios have only the option to set a "global" DMR ID. The particular radio in the example allows me to set the DMR ID per zone. So, I can use as many ID's as I have zones. For people who may use their radio for both Ham and maybe search and rescue work, where the ID's are very likely different, this is a handy feature. There is also an option to set the zone DMR ID as global if desired.

That was some very generous gift! Wished I had friends like that. Congrats on your getting your license. Now the fun part starts, spending money on all sorts of radio equipment. And you thought GMRS sucked up a lot of money, ha-ha.

Looks like enough power to run some small power efficient appliances for a weekend on battery power, assuming you only use the cabin on the weekends. The solar panels are enough to recharge the battery system over the work week. Upgrading to 320Ah battery system at 24 volts gives you about 6KWH at 80 percent capacity drain. If you keep your power usage to 2KWH per day that gives you at least 3 days of power assuming zero input from the panels. With a decent amount of sun light you could run maybe a full 7 days per week. The real challenge is the winter when the total number of sun hours is markedly reduced. That’s when most solar power systems come up way short. Solar panels have gotten way cheaper so it might not be a big deal to double the array size. What I don’t see is the special DC fuse. https://viox.com/how-to-properly-fuse-a-solar-photovoltaic-system/ Also can’t tell from the photos but all the circuit breakers and cut off switches must be DC rated. If they are AC/DC type then the DC rating is noticeably below the AC ratings. Typically the DC voltage rating is below the AC one to ensure any arcing when the device opens under load is extinguished. With AC the voltage goes through zero thus helping to quench the arc. Of course with DC this doesn’t happen and why you must use the properly rated devices. Same with fuses. This really looks like a great system if you budget your power usage carefully.

Wow! Now that is a nice system setup. How long has it been in operation?

I hear this comment often on this forum. One main sticking point most don't consider is during an emergency there is likely a power outage. Most repeaters have no emergency power backup so when the SHTF the repeater will likely go down just when you need it. You should plan on simplex type communications. If by some luck there is a repeater with standalone backup power it might be reserved for emergency traffic only. Trying to contact family members likely wouldn't count. I had that experience back in 2003, the great North East black out. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northeast_blackout_of_2003 I found a local Ham UHF repeater that was up and running, didn't hear any traffic at the time, and wondered if anybody else happen to be on the air. Made a general call using my HT. A few seconds later got told in no uncertain language it was reserved for emergency traffic only. Oops. Signed off immediately. After that I put up a portable mast, about 20 feet, with a small dual band antenna on it. At the time I lived in a ground floor apartment so it was easy to do. Ran the cable out the front room window. Spent the time monitoring the 2M calling frequency and several of the local police dispatch channels. Had a few gell-cell battery packs, with a 12VDC adapter, to keep the HT powered up for extended time periods. On receive with no audio the HT wasn't that much of a power hog. Now I have a collection of LFP, Lithium Iron Phosphate, battery packs (3.3AH to 40AH), LFP specific MPPT charge controllers and solar panels from 5 watts to 100 watts to keep them charged. Now if the power dies I have enough battery power to keep the cell phone charged, an HT up and running along with a few LED lights around the house. I have basically nothing in the fridge so that's not a concern. The fireplace is gas so I'll have heat in the extreme case when it's really freezing outside. If the situation last more than a few days to a couple of weeks then you have maybe more to worry about, like uninvited visitors who want your stuff.

It's not recommended since the output power amp stage filters and load matching are not designed for that frequency band.