wayoverthere
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Posts posted by wayoverthere
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16 minutes ago, SpeedSpeak2Me said:
I would only use a ghost/phantom/pepper shaker antenna as a last resort. I can't see them ever outperforming any kind of stick antenna. That Comet is 16" (mobile) compared to 3.4", so that makes a big difference in propagation.
I didn't have high expectations to begin with, but wanted to test it, since the next truck (whenever i get around to replacing mine) will be taller and thus more of a height issue. On the current, the signal stalk was just a little too long, and the comet gave me a little space to spare for the work garage
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5 hours ago, SpeedSpeak2Me said:
If you are looking for low-profile antennas, I've had good success with Laird, but have never tested the salt & pepper shaker "ghost" antennas.
The other lairds I've used have been solid...the phantom, I just wasn't impressed. I hooked it up to an unlocked anytone at779uv and did some testing on 70cm (the UTRA4301S3N, rated for 430-490), mag mounted in the center of the roof of my truck. On mid power I was having trouble getting in readable to a repeater I can normally use on a handheld that's 30ish miles out on a 4000ft ridge. High power was usable.
Had no problems at similar power levels in the same location with a comet sbb1 (basically a mobile rubber duck) or the small signal stalk). Have also used the bb4303 with a handheld to the same repeater, no problem.
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Do any lights on the radio flash? I know with mine it took a little finagling to get the plug to fully seat in the radio due to the rubber bit that wraps around/between the 2 ports. It's been awhile since I messed with mine but I want to say the red and green lights flash when it's reading/writing.
You mention picking the port from device manager, so it sounds like windows is recognizing the cable.
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16 minutes ago, WRXD372 said:
Overall, I see very limited use cases
Agreed, seems like pretty limited use case, though it seems more like restrictions they were given, rather than their own (if I read the prior material correctly).
It does seem within where Midland has been going lately, marketing heavily to the off-road/overlanding crowd, though. Given Midland's hardware direction lately, I'm going to speculate wildly that they'll be rebranding the retevis rt99/vero vrn-7500 for this product
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1 hour ago, Lscott said:
Midland, good luck with that. If they get the data from a cell phone app why even bother with the two way radio?
Don't the Garmin have their own GPS receivers? Or are they dependent on a phone for GPS?
I've seen some conflicting info for some of the recent bluetooth-linked radios (btech gmrs-pro comes to mind) that either wholly depend on a phone/tablet for GPS, or use that as the first method, but will eventually get a fix on their own. To be fair, since the phone has it's own GPS receiver, it's feasible to be able to get a GPS fix even when outside of cell service, so using the phone isn't really a substitute there.
If it's depending on the radio itself, wouldn't Midland need some method of updating the internal maps to ensure they stay accurateon when they're in an allowable area?
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44 minutes ago, Cmoppin said:
I have acquired a used Midland MXR10 repeater and the program cable is missing.
I have reached out to Midland but they do not sell the cable individually and I have had no luck finding one on the second hand market.
Any suggestions?
Retevis lists one for the RT97; does your Midland have a similar plug? If so, it seems like a relatively inexpensive gamble.
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1 hour ago, ChaosActual said:
Mcbazel Surecom SW-102 Digital VHF/UHF 125-525Mhz Antenna Power & SWR Meter https://a.co/d/b3YS7m7
that one specifically. I’m just lost in the sauce about the connector types.
The connectors on that meter are N-female...it looks like it should have shipped with adapters to convert to so-239 (aka uhf female). If not, here's a cable that should be what you need to go direct from the meter to your radio: https://www.amazon.com/SDTC-Tech-Coaxial-Extender-Connector/dp/B07NY2VVBZ/
Edit: here is a decent chart of the different connector types https://www.air802.com/connector-identification-chart.html
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Would you mind clarifying which version of the sw-102 you have?
I've seen both so239 and N-female versions, and the two connectors aren't interchangeable (though you can go from one to the other with adapters).
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3 hours ago, WRXE944 said:
@wayoverthere Are you saying for sure the included cable uses the Prolific chip, as I have not been successful with a YouTube tip about how to use that driver in Windows 11, and I was going to turn my attention to the other chips' drivers.
Not sure offfhand, but I will try to remember to dig out one of the cables this weekend and see how it identifies. I think it's likely though.
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5 minutes ago, WRXE944 said:
The key programming tip is to leave blank channels between “chunks” of coordinated channels.
For example, after Channel 31, leave some channels blank and start, say with Channel 36 for your local repeaters.
Now lets say you put Tucson Repeaters into Channels 43-49
Then Flagstaff Repeaters from Channels 54-62 Etc
Then receive only Public service channels starting in Channel 100
I put the NOAA channels in the last Channels up to 500.
As you operate, contiguous channels will be easier to switch around using the Up and Down buttons on your Mic, and blank channels will be ignored.
Leaving blanks allows you to more easily add new Repeaters into their proper Channel groups.
This is a big plus since the software doesnt have some basic stuff like copy and paste....if you need to move a block of channels, you're retyping everything below where you need the space. Leaving a gap leaves you room to insert later in the blanks, and the scan skips right over the blanks like they aren't there.
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23 minutes ago, jsneezy said:
I'll be programming it mainly by computer, unless I happen to need to add something in while on the road. I'm still on Windows 7, so I'm not sure what will be in store for me with drivers for the programming cable. I think some of the reviews I had come across mentioned something about using another brand of cable, but I don't remember where I had seen them.
Ive been declining the "upgrade" to 11, but afaik, the issue there is some cables that need an older version of the prolific driver, and win11 is especially bad about "helping" by updating drivers. I thought I saw something recently about being able to tell it that a certain version wasnt working when you install an older version, but I dont remember where I saw it.
I've had minimal problems on win10, though. I forget if I needednto manually install the older driver or no...it's been a year or so since I picked up my anytones (which program just fine with the radioddity software).
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On 7/12/2023 at 5:39 PM, SpeedSpeak2Me said:
@jsneezy, the Midland (5/8λ stacked) will be far superior to either the Nagoya or the Tram, hands down. If you want a good UHF-only performer that's not as tall, the Laird BB4503 (Black) or B4503 work great, but have to be tuned (trim the bottom of the mast). They are both 5/8λ, and about 10" tall, and work very very well. I normally use the BB4505C (32", also 5/8λ stacked), but when clearance is a concern I swap in my BB4503. With the BB4503 I have no problems hitting repeaters (250-300' AGL) at 30-40 miles with only 15w.
*The Midland MXTA26 will not require any tuning.
I had the 430-450 version of that base loaded 5/8, and that worked very well also. Was picking up a 70cm repeater at something like 100 miles out, and it worked great for overhead clearance on my truck.
I also clarified my other post to indicate it was the tram 1181 that didn't work so well for me
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1 hour ago, jsneezy said:
I ended up ordering from Amazon. Looks like it will be here Saturday. Now I just have to figure out the antenna and what I want to do there. I've been kicking around a mag mount like the Nagoya UT-72G or an NMO mounted through the roof with either a Midland MXTA26 or the Tram 1181. Either option would be going as close to the center of the roof of a Nissan Frontier Crew Cab, so a good ground plane shouldn't be of too much concern.
Also, @WRXE944, I won't complain if you want to share some more shortcuts.
It's tall, but I'd vote the mxta26 over the tram. Have the tram 1181, and it just doesn't seem to work well anywhere I've used it. Had trouble getting into repeaters on 10 watts Ive used with a handheld inside the car, from the same area.
Also ran it on a piece of sheet metal on top of a bookshelf, testing receiving APRS....barely received anything, half a dozen packets over the course of a week. Switched it to the base antenna (comet gp1 in the closet)band saw a couple dozen inside an hour.
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55 minutes ago, JamesBrox said:
Link?
He may be exaggerating slightly on the price difference, but he was referring to the Midland MXR10, which lists for $459, or the Retevis RT97s which is currently on sale for $379 or RT97 which is on sale for $349, currently.
All three are rated 10 watts on high, with 5 watts after the built in diplexer.
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On the input tone, as @Sshannon suggested, you may try setting the speaker to "on" on the receiving radio, so you can at least hear if it's receiving the audio.
From there, the other thoughts that come to mind are the connection cable between the radios, and the configuration on the radios themselves...are they set properly for their place in the setup, especially the tx radio.
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On 7/3/2023 at 10:04 AM, axorlov said:
Like many 3-band HT's, this one has reduced power on 1.25m. However, 3W is better than Yaesu's 1.5W. If I was in the mood to buy 1.25m radio, I'd go with Wouxun.
If didn't already have both of the extra bands covered, i'd be highly tempted...BUT...i gambled on an untested VX-7R someone picked up from a SK estate, which works well, just needed a new battery, which checks off 6m (and actually has 1.25m too, at reduced power). on the 1.25m side, i went Wouxun, with the UV7D covering 1.25m and 2m (they also offer a 2m/6m version).
20 hours ago, WRXN668 said:http://www.eagle-antenna.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=282
So there's at least one quad-band antenna that will work with it.
The 6m band is more interesting to me than the 1.25m band. It's not that I'm opposed to operating on 222MHz, but I don't see 1.25m offering anything that I couldn't get with a dual-bander 2m o4r 70cm. 6m offers range and possibly nearly HF range if solar conditions are right.
EDIT: yes, it's an HT, but I have used an HT with a roof-mount antenna for more results than just handheld.
Diamond makes a quad band mobile as well, which looks very similar to that Harvest.edit: brain fart, the diamond is 10/6/2/70cm, no 1.25m there. -
2 hours ago, BidenSucks said:
@wayoverthere Thanks, Ive seen this. The midland antenna I have now is basically the same configuration as that. The clamp/attachment approach is a bit different, but otherwise it has the removal PL259 and a hole in some steel hardware for mounting the NMO connector. If I could just somehow add/convert to a mag mount, that would be preferred, but I have yet to find a stand alone magnetic mount that takes a user supplied NMO/cable. Next best to that is to find an antenna with the removal PL259 (like you reference) but in a mag mount config. From what Ive seen, the mag mount and cables are generally integrated by the manufacturer. Seems like a no brainer as a potential product offering, but what do I know.
Right? That would be a winner on a mag mount. Given they also do it on a pl259 to pl259 cable, I can't see why they (or anyone else) don't offer a similar setup on a mag mount.
It'd be way overkill, but I imagine it's be possible to work it into one of those triple magnet mounts like this one https://alphadistributor.net/shop/ham-equipment/mobile-antenna-mounts/magnetic-mounts/triplex-5-magnet-cb-antenna-mount/
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Midland sells a cable for hard mounting that has an NMO at the antenna end, and uses a smaller connector at the radio end, along with an adapter to pl259 for the radio.
https://midlandusa.com/products/micromobile-mxta24-low-profile-antenna-cable
Free is a good price for a phantom antenna. I've done a little testing with a laird phantom in the middle of my truck roof on a mag mount, results werent super, it was having trouble getting readable audio into a local repeater with 10 watts that I can generally use on a handheld and rubber duck.
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2 hours ago, WRXN668 said:
I don't feel compelled to have many redundant radios in the same form factor and band as each other, and for what redundancies I would have, they're based on practical use like handing to family members that are entitled through my license to use them. I don't feel compelled to have them just to have them, they need to serve a purpose.
In my case it wasn't so much a lot of redundancy as upgrading equipment (baofeng to ft4x to ft5d), and chasing bands and modes, and some of it that single band LMR gear...DMR/MotoTrbo and P25 in both VHF and UHF, C4FM, wanting in-built APRS, plus 1.25, 6m, and 33cm. With antennas, it's been more chasing functionality, or adapting to limitations. i am finding myself wanting to pare down a little, though...start shifting some of the stuff for projects that never got off the ground.
when i really dove into the hobby, everything was shut down, so antenna heights weren't an issue, as office days started up again, i had to either get used to folding the antenna every time, or swapping out (and finding one short enough to work), and later relocating with new limitations. It has kind of come in handy as i shuffle equipment between vehicles, though....the antenna that was slightly too long on the truck will be a good fit on the better half's car, and can be joined by the compact radio that was in the now-departed beater, without needing to purchase new gear.
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30 minutes ago, Lscott said:
You don’t want to know how many HT’s I have.
I plead the 5th on that answer
- Lscott, WRUU653 and back4more70
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2 hours ago, WRXD372 said:
I am still getting the "maintenance" screen
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Is it just the banner at the top with the notice? Or clicking the link for ULS goes back to the 'down for maintenance' screen?
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ULS appears to be back up and running
(6/20/23, 10:27pm PDT)
https://wireless2.fcc.gov/UlsApp/UlsSearch/searchLicense.jsp
edit: slow response times, some timeouts, some error messages. did a little searching for some of the posters above, but no more joy to report.
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(6/20/23, 10:27pm PDT)
Input Tone? Output Tone? Am confused.
in General Discussion
Posted
You're close, imo. Input for the repeater is what you're transmitting from your handheld, though it may be T-DCS or T-CTCS, depending what the repeater is using (dcs or ctcss)...I haven't seen the data for that repeater. Output tone is the signal coming from the repeater, which fits with your receive tone on your handheld.
One easy way to (usually) tell ctcss vs dcs is the number format...if there's a decimal, it's ctcss. If it's just 3 digits, it's most likely dcs, especially if they're followed by a letter N (normal) or I (inverted).