wayoverthere
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Posts posted by wayoverthere
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6 minutes ago, WRUU653 said:
I know that seems lame. I did notice some of those accessories are cheaper on Amazon while the radio is cheaper from GigaParts or Dx engineering.
Definitely cross shop the accessories separate from the radio. That said, I've been happy with mine, and have a couple channels set for a 1 way crossband repeat. The remote head is great for flexibility, with the plus of being able to connect the mic to the control head or radio. Compared to the ftm400, I alsonget along better with icom's menus vs yaesu..
I haven't been super impressed with the Bluetooth, though., even with icom's Bluetooth dongle...it's good inside the car to not subject my passenger get to whatever I'm monitoring, but the range was maybe 10 or 15 ft at most when I had it on my desk in the house, and it's worse in the truck...much further than just out the door and it's breaking up.
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1 hour ago, WRXL324 said:
I know what you're saying. I had to go threw their "vetting" process for my Business Account and then they allowed my MOL Account to view and download the software for all my radio models I have. It is a process I must say, yet it was worth it because I needed the software.
At least someone had luck. Last I heard was they needed to convert my account to a business account to give me access to the software (for a couple of xpr6500's), and then ghosted me since
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Loop testing is great to test no breaks in either conductor in one shot, but it's not a great check to make sure the center and braid aren't shorting together.
Did OP by chance shorten the cable and crimp on a new connector?- marcspaz, AdmiralCochrane, WRQC527 and 1 other
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Radio reference has a list as well.
3 minutes ago, gortex2 said:https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0531/2856/0817/t/10/assets/GXT1000-Owner-Manual.pdf?v=1621291161
they are in the manual on the website...
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1 hour ago, back4more70 said:
Agree on this one.
When I got my ham call sign, the first thing I did was change it to something more fun (W7SXY). Then when I sat for my general exam, the test guy looked at my call sign and said "uh, ... seriously?" I guess "some people" have no sense of humor lol
Well, he can't say it isn't memorable
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18 hours ago, Kc9pqt said:
Good morning. Speaking of hex editing I have a vertex 7200 uhf mobile with the 450.0000mhz and I would love to get it down to 430.0000mhz any ideas how I can do that.
to be honest, i still haven't gotten around to digging into it. a little googling did find instructions for the vxd720, which is the handheld cousin of your 7200, which may be worth a try.
http://vertexdmr.blogspot.com/2015/11/vertex-out-of-band-mod.html
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2 hours ago, WRYF792 said:
However, it was stupid how they shipped the radio with a total menu lock that per the manual, can only be disabled by programming the radio. Which gave me trouble because I wasn’t even able to disable this without updating the firmware first. I love the radio and I’d love to get one for myself, but that factory lockout is really annoying. Especially when you’re not expecting it!
Sounds like it may have been shipped in part 90 ("professional") mode then, which disallows most programming from the face.
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1 hour ago, WRXE944 said:
I believe the 878 is an analog/DMR Ham Radio and as such, it is probably blocked from transmitting outside the Ham bands, like GMRS.
This.
They generally ship locked down to prevent transmit outside the ham bands. However, I believe they do (or some models, anyway) have part 90 (no 95e though) approval, and the ability to open them up to additional ranges via the software, in theory with the appropriate restrictions for part 90 usage.
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21 minutes ago, WRXE944 said:
Somewhere I posted how to program a channel manually. I am on a driving trip to Montana.
v2.30 is good for now
@wayoverthere - please link him to my instructions that I posted recently in a thread you were also a part of
That was earlier in this thread
around the middle of page 1, and there's a link in the last post on page 1, but here is the post again:
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40 minutes ago, WRYF792 said:
The “FUN” button does not work for this. I can’t get anything to happen once I’m in the mode selecting for GMRS. I can’t find anything online either
Took some looking, but I found this in an older thread...looks like you switch it to the range you want, turn if off, then turn back on normally.
It does also look like (at least in some firmware) that the tones may be locked out in the menu in gmrs mode
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52 minutes ago, WRYF792 said:
It's a little unfortunate that it will wipe all channels. What I'm not able to figure out though is what button do I push to start up in said mode from this menu. I can find GMRS in the menu, but I don't know how to select it. I'm currently attempting to figure out how to program a repeater into it without using my computer currently. Would be very nice to be able to get at least one repeater dialed in until I can mess with it on my computer at home tonight!
it might be the "fun" button that selects the mode, once you're in that menu.
From there, all you REALLY need to do is dial up the correct repeater channel (the base 30 should be there in gmrs mode) and enter the transmit tone. The instructions @WRXE944 linked has how to set the tone on page 14.
On 8/7/2023 at 11:26 AM, WRXE944 said: -
1 hour ago, WRYF792 said:
I snuck away from my desk for a second to check it out a little bit more. You were right! I'm just not entirley sure what exactly I did to put it into GMRS mode, not sure which button did the trick lol.
Looking for the post right now (may have been another thread), but I was corrected that it's holding the v/m button when turning it on that will give you the option to change modes. Be aware it does wipe any channels you program when changing modes, and for gmrs mode, reverts to the base 30 channels (22 simplex, 8 repeater).
Edit: found it.
https://forums.mygmrs.com/topic/5871-radioddity-db20-g/?do=findComment&comment=60575&_rid=2738
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11 minutes ago, WRYF792 said:
I just picked my AnyTone AT-779UV from an Amazon locker on my way to work. Is this thing for GMRS? Because it looks like everything is preset for regular ham channels. I can still go to a GMRS channel, but I've currently got it stuck in FM radio and about to read the manual, I'm a little unsure how to work it quite yet
It may have been shipped in the wrong mode...it does have a mode that's locked down for gmrs, but there are also unlocked modes that can be used for ham use (I have one that was in the older car for exactly that reason)
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10 minutes ago, WRYF792 said:
Awesome, thank you so much for your help! The anytone at779uv seems like a much better option, for the time being, I will absolutely be getting this one! Thank you for the size comparison, this is a great help! I'm not seeing this listed on CHIRP's website, however. Is it supported with CHIRP, or fairly eas to get programmed? It seems like a pretty straight forward little radio for sure!
It's reasonably easy to program, though the actual manual isn't the greatest. On chirp, I believe they were working on compatibility, but I didn't see a lot of progress... https://chirp.danplanet.com/issues/8953
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4 hours ago, WRYF792 said:
Would you be able to elaborate a little more on this? I surely hope you're not saying that when you change the tone for one channel, it applies to all channels!
No, it doesn't apply across all the channels like that. in my case, there are two repeaters on .575 (ch 16). On the midland, i usually had the tone set for the closer repeater (Auberry), but if i wanted to use the other that's on the same frequency (Central1), i'd have to either look up or remember the code number for the correct tone for that one, and set it in the menu.
when i moved to the Btech GMRS 50x1. the situation was similar, but without the codes, that lets you choose the tones directly), since the hard coded 30 channels in that are all you get for transmit, and anything else you program is receive only. (i hear they've made the GMRS50v2 a bit more flexible).
For my current radios (anytone at779uv, vertex vx4207), they're a lot more flexible about what you can program, so I can have whatever combination of frequency and tone desired for each memory preset/channel. I programmed preset channels for Auberry and Central1, each with the appropriate tone, so instead of having to go into the menu and change tones, i just switch to the desired memory channel. I also have a ham system near me that operates similar to the SWCRS setup, where using one tone repeats at that repeater only, and a second repeats across the linked system, so i have memory channels that are C15-Local (which uses the local tone) and C15-Link (which uses the tone to repeat across the whole system).
On the size comparison, i snapped some pictures awhile ago of the midland and anytone side by side, if that helps.
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32 minutes ago, WRYF792 said:
I have decided to become more familiar with the manual, as everybody keeps referring me to parts of it to help clear up the confusion. I did also watch a couple videos about the radio by some rubicon guy. Thankfully I got the newer version of the radio with USB C. However, I do still think repeaters are sort of an issue on these units. From everything that I can see, you cannot set an input and output tone to be different, there’s no split tone option on the radio. Which seems like a huge dealbreaker to me. So unfortunately it seems like the issues with repeaters still do persist. Also keeping in mind that it is in fact still shortwave only, unfortunately. I may return the radio and save a few extra bucks to get something a little more expensive and feature full. Thank you for your help!
If you're within the return window, that's definitely a viable option. There's a number of users (myself included) that have been happy with the anytone at779uv/radioddity db20g/retevis ra25 triplets; it's around the same size physically, and a little less expensive. The software is a little limited though, but usable.
On the manual, at least for me not being super familiar with specific radios (or in this case, a newer model), i'll refer to the manual too to have a better idea what menu options to look for.
On the tones, it does look like it has options to set transmit (tC) and receive (rC) tones separately, at least based on the manual. On the downside, it doesn't offer an option to have 2 copies of the channel (one with the local tone and one with the link tone), so it'd be changing tones in the menu to switch (which does sound like a pain).
I have a couple repeaters locally that are both on .575, but with different tones..on the Midland I'd have to remember the code to change tones depending which I wanted to use. Next radio didn't allow programming more TX channels, but it at least used tones instead of codes. Current radios, I have a present for each with the appropriate tones set.
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I'll have to look at it a little more. Between what I saw in the menu, and what you have above, I think you're on the right track. The only thing I think is missing is to tell it if the offset should be + or -.
If this is the missed step, the giveaway would be to monitor 462.700 and 467.700 with no tone set, and key up the icom...if the signal is on 462.700, it's not applying the offset. If it's on 467.700, the tone settings are likely where the problem lies.
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Been a bit since I've messed with programming, and none of what I have in mine uses DCS, but the naming in the icom is a little bit different than some of the other brands. I want to say the R tones are actually transmit tones, and the C tones are receive tones. Will try to poke at it in a bit and see if I can be a bit more specific.
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3 hours ago, WRYF792 said:
I do not see 165N in my DCS tones on this little radio, would 65 be the right one for that, do you know?
I'm starting to feel like I bought the wrong radio to start out. A lot of people online seem to say it's really awful for repeater use.
Looking at the chart in the manual, it looks like DCS #27 equates to a DCS tone 165....since it's specified as (N)ormal, that should be the one you need.
If it were (I)inverted, it'd be looking for that chart @Sshannon mentioned for an equivalent tone to use, then using the chart in Midland's instructions to find what code to enter. I won't say Midland is bad, but their use of code numbers to enter the tones does add an extra layer of complication.
Also, some of that reputation online is based on prior versions of the radios, which WERE less than stellar for repeater use due to being narrowband only (which sounds quieter on a wideband repeater) and not having the ability to set transmit and receive tones independently. As far as I know, those shortcomings got addressed when they updated the radios from a usb-a port on the front to usb-c.
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On 8/6/2023 at 1:26 AM, WRYF792 said:
I'm looking at many local in Phoenix, Arizona. But in particular, I am looking at SHAWBUTE 725, it appears to be a good choice from my newbie perspective. However, in particular, this one confuses me because it says in the description "USE DCS CODE 165N ON THE ENCODE SIDE OF YOUR RADIO ONLY FOR LINK ACCESS" - which I'm assuming may not apply to me, but I also I'm not entirely sure what that means.
What that's saying is if you just want your signal repeated from that repeater, only use one tone, and if you want it repeated across all of the other repeater sthat are linked to Shawbute also, use the other tone (the "for link access" part.
In either case both of those are the transmit tones, and you will not use a receive tone, as the listing is saying the repeater does not send one.
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8 minutes ago, WRXE944 said:
The V/M button
Good catch, thank you. Been awhile since I unlocked one of mine.
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9 minutes ago, WRYF792 said:
The part that I am having trouble with is finding out what the tone is from the repeater info on this site. I don't seem to see anything about that on there. Would it not be showing that if it's an open system?
Usually if they are fully open, they'll have the tones on the repeater listing; some may still want to have a permission request to keep track of who may be using the repeater. Is there a specific repeater listing on the site you're looking at?
One side note: the main site (where the repeater listing is located) and the forum side don't always link up well; make sure the main page is showing you as logged in. It should be the same login as the forum.
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4 hours ago, UncleYoda said:
The Radioddity software will not work on my Windows 10 machine. Would I be missing out on any important settings without programming software? And is there a way to switch it over to Ham frequencies without using the software?
Will the software not load? Or is it a driver issue with the cable? If it's the software, you may try anytone's version of it; I have the anytone, but program with the radioddity version, with no issue.
If I remember right, you can hold the xxx button when you turn it on to access the range setting. (correction: the "V/M" button)
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33 minutes ago, WRYF792 said:
First and foremost, I am sorry if I am posting this under the wrong topic.
Today I just got my little Midland MXT115 from Amazon. I just got my license yesterday and today I’m trying to get it linked up to some local repeaters. I watched a little video explaining how to program for a repeater, but I am very confused about the CTCSS/DCS codes. I don’t see anything on a local repeater on here. I’m just wondering if there’s something I’m missing here. I see an input tone on the repeater as “047 DPL” but nothing about CTCSS or DCS. I also have no idea how I'm supposed to know which channel a repeater frequency is under, I have one on my radio, and I keep hearing static. I feel like I am close to something here, but I'm not sure what to do. I'm not having much luck finding any info for this online. However, it is very possible I'm just not sure exactly what I should be searching for.
So, general stuff first. Think of tones as a filter, that only lets signals through that carry a matching tone. These are ctcss (also called PL by Motorola, or QT by kenwood) and DCS (aka DPL or DQT). Repeaters will usually have it enabled on the input (what you transmit to).
Getting a hair more specific..Midland radios commonly need the repeater channels to be enabled in the menu; with that out of the way you'll see 1-22 (skipping 8-14, most likely ) and then find 15r-22r, which are set with the proper offset for repeater use. As far as tones, you want to be on the appropriate channel for the frequency of the repeater, (page 26 of the instructions has what channel is what frequency), then set the transmit tone; use the table on page 27 to see what tone exuals what code, and page 19 has the instructions on how to set the tones.
Looks like DPL 047 would be code 7 under dcs.
https://cdn.accentuate.io/81031332017/1623709961570/MXT115-Owners-Manual-11-16-2020.pdf
Considering a New Mobile VHF/UHF
in Amateur Radio (Ham)
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honestly, I've rotated through a few, looking for that elusive combination of good signal and overhead clearance.
I also have a 1/2 wave Signal Stalk (the low temp version), but the numbers are ~3:1 on 2m...analyzer shows its sweet spot is around 142mhz currently, so trimming it a little is on my to-do list.