wayoverthere

I have heard a Ham near me with MTW in their call use Monday Tuesday Wednesday. It may not be traditional but it couldn't be easier to understand. I like it. 

There's one from Alaska I hear on nets sometimes that uses "Frozen Radio" for the FR in his call

There's one from Alaska I hear on nets sometimes that uses "Frozen Radio" for the FR in his call

There's one from Alaska I hear on nets sometimes that uses "Frozen Radio" for the FR in his call

I have decided to go with a magnetic mount for now on the Escape. I will have to use a 15-16 inch tall antenna so I don't tear up anything pulling into the garage.
Next question for the gurus. How far apart should I keep a 2m/70cm antenna and a GMRS Antenna while mounted on top of the Escape? 

So...I still stand by the statement that RIch can best say what that section of the site will and will not accept in that box.
That said, I created a "Test" repeater listing to be able to poke at the settings (marked it offline, etc).  Still not sure what kind of code it's using, but I did successfully create a link with the little "chain" icon (4th from the top right, in blue in the screenshot).  typed in the text I wanted, highlighted it, hit the link button, and pasted in the url I wanted it to point to.
 

Seems to have worked:

 
Hope it's at least a little bit of help.

Thank you for the information @wayoverthere. And yes most things will be a compromise, especially since I do not want to drill any holes. The mount you linked looks like the best option as far as mounting on the lift gate.
My Escape does have the factory roof rails but no cross bars.

If you have some roof rack bars/rails, those may help with keeping the cable off the roof between the mount and tucking into the hatch.
That may bring it back to a lip mount being the best option. This comet has a short section of thin cable to help with squeezing past the seal, and limits the amount of cable available outside to rub. Closer to the hinge also limits how much you need loose to allow range of movement with the hatch, but may complicate routing while leaving a drip loop.
(I know...Always compromises somewhere) 
Back to mag mounts, though, I've largely used Midland mag mounts, have to check the brand on one other (edit: it's a Browning), along with a late 90's radio shack mag mount and cb antenna.  Even with antennas up to 3 ft, comet 2x4sr or double 5/8 Browning, the only time I've had one come loose was when the whip directly and solidly hit something, like a good sized branch. Lots of light hits with no movement. I can't see something like a "hatpin" 1/4 wave having enough leverage to knock the mount loose, and is only 6" tall. On the hatch, you can likely get by with a 1/2 wave (which tend to be around 12-15" for 450-470 mhz) and still clear the garage.

So...I still stand by the statement that RIch can best say what that section of the site will and will not accept in that box.
That said, I created a "Test" repeater listing to be able to poke at the settings (marked it offline, etc).  Still not sure what kind of code it's using, but I did successfully create a link with the little "chain" icon (4th from the top right, in blue in the screenshot).  typed in the text I wanted, highlighted it, hit the link button, and pasted in the url I wanted it to point to.
 

Seems to have worked:

 
Hope it's at least a little bit of help.

If you have some roof rack bars/rails, those may help with keeping the cable off the roof between the mount and tucking into the hatch.
That may bring it back to a lip mount being the best option. This comet has a short section of thin cable to help with squeezing past the seal, and limits the amount of cable available outside to rub. Closer to the hinge also limits how much you need loose to allow range of movement with the hatch, but may complicate routing while leaving a drip loop.
(I know...Always compromises somewhere) 
Back to mag mounts, though, I've largely used Midland mag mounts, have to check the brand on one other (edit: it's a Browning), along with a late 90's radio shack mag mount and cb antenna.  Even with antennas up to 3 ft, comet 2x4sr or double 5/8 Browning, the only time I've had one come loose was when the whip directly and solidly hit something, like a good sized branch. Lots of light hits with no movement. I can't see something like a "hatpin" 1/4 wave having enough leverage to knock the mount loose, and is only 6" tall. On the hatch, you can likely get by with a 1/2 wave (which tend to be around 12-15" for 450-470 mhz) and still clear the garage.

I figured it out when I had to reinstall the OS...
Before running number "8. Run the script with the following command: sudo ~/repeaterfinder.sh" from the section "Configure Your Node Manually" on the page How Do I Join The myGMRS Network
I had to change "deb http://mirrordirector.raspbian.org/raspbian/" to "deb http://legacy.raspbian.org/raspbian" in the file "/etc/apt/sources.list"
I had to change this because it was causing an error while trying to run the script, as the old website link is no longer in existence!
Once I changed it, I then ran the script from number 8, and it downloaded everything correctly. It then rebooted, and I changed my password... I checked the "manage nodes" page, and the node came up correctly. I was able to manage it then, as well as connect my node to a regional node.

I'll also suggest protecting the point where the cable turns the corner into the hatch. Been running mag mounts (1, 2 or 3) on my truck for the past 3 years or so, and you can see the "rub" where it turns to tuck in behind the door seal

I'll also suggest protecting the point where the cable turns the corner into the hatch. Been running mag mounts (1, 2 or 3) on my truck for the past 3 years or so, and you can see the "rub" where it turns to tuck in behind the door seal

Regarding pinch points, I have found that taping two short cut pieces of coax on each side. They will take the brunt of a pinch instead of your active coax. Metal ducting tape works well to keep it in place. Add some slack where the bends are so the bend diameter is larger. I think the articulating lip mount will be your best option.

Some helpful images for mobile antenna mounting considerations.




Good luck on your install and happy mobiling!


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You deserve to hear this: you were right and I was wrong. The power indicator rotates through H, M, and L, with no other indication and I completely missed it. 

@rdunajewski is the Rich in question.
And racking my brain in the meantime as to what it might accept.

this is the code i was using (html):
<!DOCTYPE html>
<html>
<head>
<title>Open a New Page</title>
</head>
<body>
<p>Click the link below to go to Pikes Peak GMRS:</p>
<a href="https://www.pikespeakgmrs.org" target="_blank">Go to Pikes Peak GMRS</a>
</body>
</html>
 
Markdown Code:
[Go to Pikes Peak GMRS](https://www.pikespeakgmrs.org)
 
Even tried with an iframe:
<!DOCTYPE html>
<html>
<head>
<title>Pikes Peak GMRS</title>
</head>
<body>
<p>Here's the website embedded in an iframe:</p>
<iframe src="https://www.pikespeakgmrs.org" width="100%" height="500"></iframe>
</body>
</html>
 
Then tried using just the link part (html):
<a href="https://www.pikespeakgmrs.org" target="_blank">Go to Pikes Peak GMRS</a>
 
Lastly, even tried php:
<?php header("Location: https://www.pikespeakgmrs.org"); exit; ?>
 
None of those seemed to work and the page would just show what i pasted in here.

Comet also makes a couple generic brackets that are basically an s bend, and use one of the fender bolts to hold the mount just above the fender. This is the shorter one, I believe there is a "tall" option also.

not familiar with ford escape, if it is a SUV type vehicle their might be a third brake light mount available..   I have a ram truck and have a third brake light NMO mount..  no drilling, looks factory and works well..   

Comet also makes a couple generic brackets that are basically an s bend, and use one of the fender bolts to hold the mount just above the fender. This is the shorter one, I believe there is a "tall" option also.

Well you’re no fun, lol.
I would look at a fender mount or an articulating lip mount for the rear hatch/trunk.





Good luck with your install!


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I ended up bringing the radio in and using the CPS. I might try out changing the mode and adding the GMRS code plug to it later. For now, I'm just getting used to having a radio in the truck with me. Next step is going to be the permanent antenna, but that can wait for another day.

It looks like they've moved to a club requiring dues, probably why they switched the channel to requiring a password (I got bumped out by that move too, btw). Their webpage seems to be offline, but they have a club page on the site, if you want to go that route:
https://forums.mygmrs.com/clubs/49-broadnet-gmrs-repeater-systems/

The thing that I don't like about clubs is that they (Group Leader) make it a point to change things without notifying their members of procedural changes and when they try to log in to the page only to find out they have to request for membership all over again that's why membership in groups are dropping IMO.

If you're talking about needing a password to connect to a certain channel, identifying the channel may help with getting you pointed to the relevant contacts (or otherwise providing help).
I've definitely run into a couple that I hadn't been on in a bit and either needed a password, or had been bumped out of the "trusted" group.