Jump to content

tweiss3

Members
  • Posts

    805
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Posts posted by tweiss3

  1. The only wiring in my attic is shielded CAT6 for my POE camera system.

     

    Roof is new asphalt shingle (replaced 2 years ago). All wire would be kept inside the house, as this antenna would be going almost right above my office.

     

    Wouldn't a proper ground plane/radial set keep the radiation from a downward trajectory and impacting the house?

  2. Not a radio cop but if you "do" ham and GMRS in one radio, You are asking for trouble.  Good luck with your setup.

     

    You are right that part 90 radios are technically not listed specifically approved for GMRS. I was talking about a Part 90 certified radio, not an off the shelf ham that isn't certified.

     

    Were would the problem be for example in my case out of curiosity since I’m doing exactly the above? I’m licensed for both services and use a Kenwood TK-370G-1 which is Part 95 certified, unmodified and has a full front panel keypad. The radio is not enabled, through hardware and software, for front panel programming. However it is programed for both GMRS simplex channels, a couple of GMRS repeaters and various local UHF Ham repeaters.

     

    Your's is Part 95, and 100% acceptable for GMRS: https://fccid.io/ALH29473110

     

    There is not a restriction, that im aware of, on using Part 90/95 equipment in the ham bands.

  3. As seen before, I don't have a clue with antennas. I did get the cars figured out, but there isn't nearly as much option with the NMO antennas.

     

    I'm looking to bite the bullet and just get a base station for my office at home. I definitely need to keep GMRS, but want to add the Ham stuff, and listening to public works 800MHz. That being said, I may have an easy time with zoning, because I think they wrote an exception in the code for amateur radio (email response waiting). I'm starting my window shopping in hopes for a good Christmas.

     

    My house is a split level with dual peak. I want to install the antenna off the higher peak, and pass into the attic under the eave.

     

    Challenge 1:

    I'm confused on what type of antenna. I know I don't want a yagi. Do I want a fiberglass amateur base station antenna, or a discone base station? I'd like the VHF/UHF and GMRS bands at a minimum, and good radiation pattern. This will be "roof" mounted, on the side at the peak, on a pole (probably 10'+-).

     

    https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/diamond-x6000a-4879

    vs

    https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/comet-cx-333-1076

    vs

    https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/diamond-d3000n-5695

     

     

    Challenge 2:

    What else do I need to look into?

    I was thinking grounding the support pole all the way to the ground and using a 10 grounding rod. I was also going to connect it (antenna)-(cable)-(multi strike under eave)-(cable through attic to office).

     

    https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/coax-cable-accessories-627/lightning-protection-628/multi-strike-50-ohm-629/20-1990-mhz-with-n-connector-635/

     

    I'm looking for just 1 antenna at this time as I ease my way into this and DMR.

     

    Thanks for all the help.

  4. Yea, I can program from 327 MHz to 550 MHz in KPG-79D (with it yelling at me out of range). Any further outside of that it doesn't keep the frequency. Many agencies around here are still on UHF and have not made the jump to 800, though Ohio MARCS is getting them one by one.

     

    I programmed it in a way that makes sense to me:

    Zone 1 - GMRS: CH1-7, CH15-22, RPT15-22 CSQ, Known Repeaters

    Zone 2 - County 1: Local Hospitals, County Jail, Malls, School Districts, County Highway Engineer

    Zone 3 - County 2: Local Hospitals, County Fire, Twp Fire, City Fire, City PD, Twp PD, School Districts

    Zone 4 - County 3: County Engineer, RTA, Local Schools, Local Traffic Reports, News Station Ops

    Zone 5 - GMRS Travel: RPT15-22 141.3PL wideband, RPT15-22 141.3PL narrowband

     

    Everything non GMRS has no TX frequency even programmed. Got to keep the wife out of trouble. Ends up just shy of completely full. I still have been using the BF-F8HP for VHF scanning (quite a bit of that around here too).

     

    I did set myself a hard deadline. I found a local Laural sponsored test session (free) on July 9th, so I'm taking it.

     

    As for digital/DMR, the AT-D578UVPRO is part 90 certified. It's brother, the AT-D578UVIIIPRO is Part 15 certified and has 220 capabilities in it. From what I have read, the hardware is identical just a different sticker and firmware. Any say on 220? Would it be used often?

  5. You can do it. When you are scoring mid 90's on the test it is pretty much a pass at that point. Gl

     

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

     

    I usually get 25 or so correct, when 26 is passing. I did just get 27, I should have gone Saturday, but I already had people lined up to help me clean the garage. Next testing date I'm going to just go.

  6. Tech is super easy. Just study and take the practice exams. BTW, most just study for the general at the same time. Lots of cross over material. I wish I had done that.

     

    I've taken about 6 online practice tests without studying and fall a few correct short from passing. 

     

    Unfortunately there was a group testing this past Saturday that I didn't find out till Friday. I should have just gone and tested, but didn't feel like wasting $15. The even allow retests after everyone has gone, and up-testing. I need to keep an eye on the next available date. DMR is screaming my name, I'm a glutton for projects that can never be finished and always tweaked.

  7. That does look like a neat install. How easy is it to get up on top to remove the antenna when necessary? I assume you have a cap to screw on the mounting base when the antenna is removed to keep out the elements.

     

    I don't have a cap yet, but i can reach it by standing on the rear bumper without an issue. I need to pick up a cap, it will probably be part of my next order.

     

    My wife called on her way to work yesterday, first thing she said was "I can't even see the wires or anything." That's a good sign, she was worried it would be a half butt install. Talking to her this morning after I dropped the kids off, she mentioned that I have to show her how to work it, which means she is not opposed to learning. I'd say its a double win. 

     

    Now I just have to find time to study for my technician exam, because I definitely want to get that taken and put behind me soon. I don't do well with tests.

  8. Well, I just finished. Ended up cleaning the garage yesterday, and was too tired to attempt today.

     

    I set the antenna 12" from edge of the back of the roof sheet metal. Routed the antenna cable down the D pillar, which keeps all the wire away from the airbags. Antenna is almost invisible, and I can still get drywall on the top. Also, I didn't have to move a roof rack bar.

    49980457563_2c46b9ff3a_c.jpgAntenna Installed by tweiss3, on Flickr

    49981239232_eca9bba7cc_c.jpgInvisible Antenna by tweiss3, on Flickr

    49981238617_5f694a6746_c.jpgAntenna Location by tweiss3, on Flickr

    Nobody is ever going to see or notice it. It fits right along the satnav receiver and the FM antenna.

     

    I hid the receiver in the access panel where the jack is. Still have full access to the jack.

    49980985751_78fc8fef8a_c.jpgRadio Hiding Spot by tweiss3, on Flickr

    49980455813_b814a2163e_c.jpgMounted Radio Hiding Spot by tweiss3, on Flickr

     

    Routed the remote head wire up the D pillar and down the center of the roof, came out in the overhead shelf where it will be permanently mounted. Still waiting on the bracket, should be here Tuesday.

    49980985281_1e21e97497_c.jpgRemote Head Placement by tweiss3, on Flickr

     

    Programmed it, and all works well. Wife is ok with it as long as it looks good. She recommended the head location. I like it because you can't see it though the window and won't give someone a reason to break in. Now to get her comfortable with using it.

  9. No, the drill bit I'm talking about is a metal working drill bit, for my drill press, not to ever be used on wood. For just shy of $12, I will have that dewalt bit here tomorrow. I was more worried about not having it tomorrow/this weekend. Stores around here are a bit of a pain in the ass to get anything at.

     

    Cross bars are 3-3.5" from top of roof to top of bars. Antenna is 6", so I'm not so much worried about overhead clearance. Antenna will stick up over crossbars, but will still be hidden.

     

    I'm going to drill a 1/8" pilot hole after I use the punch. I will be slightly dropping the headliner, figuring out where the cross member is, then go slow. 

     

    Wife gave the "ok" to install a radio in her car, as long as it looks good. She doesn't know yet I'm drilling the roof. She won't ever see it, so as long as the kids don't rat me out, she will never know.

     

    The comet lip mount will be kept for "road trip CB" usage when I toss a CB in the car temporarily for vacation.

  10. The comet mount came yesterday, and I'm rethinking not drilling. Interference when its open, and placing the antenna in front of the 3rd brake light.

    In the above #2 location, am I to assume that is just in front of the rear cross member, where the headliner dips back up?

     

    Is drilling as easy as this: http://www.satstar.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=Z7UO3B-qIjc%3D&portalid=4

     

    Do I need a hole saw bit, or will my nice machine drill bits work? I have a 3/4" traditional bit. Anything else I need to know, keep in mind, get for the install? For dielectric grease, just any old automotive dielectric grease will work?

     

    Do I need to move the roof rack bar from the antenna 6"+?

     

    Thanks,

  11. I was talking about a mount like the following. All mounts as far as mobile (hell even base stations) for the most part are all compromises. It is what you can live with when it comes to compromises.

     

     

     

     

     

    I'll look into those. Where can I get one?

     

    My concern there is my wife works at a hospital, and that might ask to be vandalized. High, dark and 6" in length would be hidden and less likely for her go get ripped off. 

     

    The comet will also allow a 1/2 wave for road trips to get over the snail cargo holder. Is the hinge option an NMO?

  12. So, moving on to my wife's car, the second TK-8150 is going to be installed, main unit in the back and remote head somewhere up front. Its a 2015 Transit Connect with the roof rack, see attached photos (pulled from the internet). Seeing as we use the roof rack quite a bit, for lumber, drywall and a snail pack when going on long trips, I did attempt to debate drilling the roof, but decided against it since it would make the antenna useless on road trips. 

     

    In talks with Mark and his comet hood mount on his jeep, do you think it would work ok on the back hatch? I will be using the same Tram 1126 1/4 wave antenna. I guess I don't understand the ground plane with these mounts. 

     

    Thanks!

    post-3159-0-02376900-1591117777_thumb.jpg

    post-3159-0-53839400-1591117781_thumb.jpg

  13. Hi this is more a question than an answer.

     

    I just want to know is there any rules stating that repeater owners that list their repeater have to have a valid callsign to list their repeater on here. Is there a rule in general that the owner have to have a GMRS license?

     

    Technically, in order to have a repeater online, it has to have a licensed owner/operator, and thus would have a valid callsign, since that device would be broadcasting your input.

  14. Thanks Guy's, so I found a couple different Kenwoods TX-880H-1 & TK-8180-K  & two Vertex's  a VX-2200-G7-45 and a VX2500U   I'm thinking about a Comet CA-712EFC and about 75' of LMR-400 cable.   

     

    Any suggestions on which one is better.  Should I be looking for other models?  I would like to find a good model to start and try under $200 and see how things go and add another later ;).  I would also like to be able to program the radio's myself.  I read ALOT on the kenwoods today but not much on the Vertex's but see them referenced a lot in searches.

     

    Thanks again!

     

    Rueben

     

    The 8180 is Part 95 certified, but only 30W, the 8180H is 45W.

     

    I recently bought two 8150's and really like the Kenwood stuff. That 880 you should be able to get for about $100.

  15. So I found quite the deal on a pair of TK-8150 radios with remote heads, from a local PD that went to 800MHz.

     

    Tonight I installed the radio, programmed it using KPG-79D. I got all the standard GMRS frequencies in, plus the known repeaters I might be close to when driving for work.

     

    Anyways, it starts up like it should, I can select channels and zones that I want no problem. My problem is I have no sound. The radio came with Pins 5&6 jumpered from the PD, and from what I read, that should make it use the internal speaker in the head. Is there something I'm missing in the programming? I did check one repeater that is in range, 1s keyed up, when I release the key, I get the green busy light for 2 seconds after, but no sound.

     

    I'm just feeling defeated today.

  16. I have been scanning on my way to work for a few months now. I've found a repeater by the morse code identification. Now, as far as I can tell, its got a tone on it, because I can't seem to hit it. I've also attempted to hail the owner on the corresponding non-repeater frequency with no response.

     

    My method to try and hail the owner: "This is WRFV692 attempting to hail the owner of the repeater on frequency XXX.XXX, commonly know as repeater channel XX."

     

    Is this the correct method to hail them?

     

    Secondly, other than using the RTL-SDRV3 that just came in the mail to record the morse code identification, any other way to figure out who it is/where it is? based on my commute, and assumption it's about 10-15 mile radius of reach, I have an idea, but have no idea how to reach the owner.

     

    Is it rude to identify the morse code, look up the call sign and send a snail mail letter to the owner based on the registered address? 

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Guidelines.