SteveShannon

This has nothing to do with a “control unit”, just the ability of the license holder to impose a modicum of control over the use of their license and stations, remembering that they are responsible for the actions of everyone they authorize to use their stations. 99.9% of the time nobody would know, but it doesn’t change the requirement.

What was being transmitted, by whom, on what channel? Were they using a tone or digital code to reduce interruptions? If so did you have the same code or tones programmed into your radio? Welcome!

Yes. Most of the NanoVNAs have SMA connectors. I bought one that has N female connectors on the NanoVNA.

Yeah, but really, how far will your radio work?

DXEngineering claims they should ship on the 16th of September. I would just order it rather than letting others get in the queue ahead of you.

Yeah, zoomed in on your picture, it doesn't look right.

From that picture I can’t tell if the center socket is whole or not. Here’s one:

I'm sorry; I haven't.

The connectors do not need to match the brand of hardline, but they must be sized correctly. The connector you showed in your picture (L5NF) was made by Andrews. The L5NF is no longer manufactured, but I would think they make something similar. I don't know if it could be reused with the correct preparation, but it looks like it might be an N female, rather than N male. It looks like someone used it with a jumper of coax, possibly something like LMR. I know some people are against using LMR400 for repeaters because it has two different shield metals. If you subscribe to that theory, get M&P Ultraflex 10 jumpers; they are copper for all layers of shielding. So, with the connector you have, with N female on the ends (male thread on the outside, but a female socket on the inside) you would use an N male to N male coax jumper. A short jumper of M&P Ultraflex from Gigaparts will work well.

Welcome, Vince!

Before buying the connectors, see what the manufacturer has for resources for the exact connector you need. The better manufacturers provide training videos. Some (okay, nearly all) strongly recommend using their preparation tools, but once you understand the process you will understand what tools you really need. Here is an example:

As we all should.

There are various reasons not to run the ground directly to the battery. This site explains: http://www.k0bg.com/wiring.html

Yes, the positive side should come directly from the battery. It’s not necessary to run a separate ground however; the vehicle manufacturers provide chassis ground points that you can use.

Thanks very much. WRQC527 was the member with the spur on his Quantar. I’ll pass along your recommendations along with the others this question has received. Meanwhile I’ll research the MTRs.

That’s exactly the kind of input I’m looking for. Thank you!

I peeked. No apologies needed. I overreacted. You’re back on my Christmas card list.

Our ham radio club is looking for a replacement 2 meter analog repeater. I’m kind of interested in a used Motorola. Our current repeater is a Yaesu DR1x that has locked up twice during the winter when we can’t get to it. We want something more reliable. We run at 25 watts now so it would not have to be more. Also, we don’t need digital audio, not DMR or P25. Im interested in suggestions based on actual experience. Thanks!

Me too, then I added him to my ignore list.

I have not, but I’ll be curious to hear how well the “two-way noise reduction” works. Good noise reduction can really help in SSB mode on my ham radios, but I’ve not tried it in FM. Other than noise reduction and IP67, all the other features are typical of most GMRS radios.

It’s no bother. How long of a cable do you need? I can link a cable with the correct ends. If you want.

No, that’s a female N connector. The center is a tiny socket with spring fingers. We already told you what to get: 1. LMR400 or equivalent cable with pl259 on both ends. 2. Adapter with SO239 on one side and N male on the other side. Or call DX Engineering and order a DXE400 cable with an N male on one end and PL259 on the other.

Brent, Where would you plan to mount the bracket? Personally I would get a bracket designed specifically for your model and year of truck rather than a generic bracket like you’ve linked. Alternatively, there are thin steel plates with double sided adhesive on one side that can be adhered to your aluminum roof which then allow magnetic mounts to be used. There’s also a company that makes antenna brackets that attach between your third brake light and the cab. They’re expensive but very well done. Or get a bracket and antenna like you linked.

You mean the person who marked the antenna as 162-167 MHz?