SteveShannon

The easiest way is to swap it out to another. Otherwise check for continuity from one end to the other on both the shield and the center conductor. But, the shield and center conductor must not be shorted to each other.

It might be the meter, but I bet it’s either the cable or the mount.

Although it’s possible to get a single radio that can tune almost everything from DC to daylight (cellular frequencies are blocked on receivers sold in the U.S.) and that functions well as a handheld radio for some of those frequencies, a scanner with a large discone would do a much better job as a home-rolled NSA listening post. It will scan the frequencies much faster. Even better would bet would be a bank of scanners, each covering a section of the spectrum. Understand that the RF spectrum is immense and there are many different types of modulation. My Yaesu FT5DR does a great job for a handheld that can still serve well as a 2 meter and 70 cm transceiver and listen to FM and AM from 1 MHz to 999 MHz (minus cellular). But there are several gigahertz of frequencies above that. But understand that antennas (or antennae for those who care) that are “more powerful” do so by focusing upon a smaller and smaller direction. And antennas are most efficient around a single frequency. It’s nice to have an antenna that can receive additional frequencies, but they do so at some cost: you have to include loading coils or traps or multiple elements that are tuned for different frequencies. I’m sorry, but I don’t know the difference between the AR5RM and the UV5RM, but here’s what an AI said:

I don’t have one but this radio seems to check the waterproof box, ip55 with microphone and ip68 without: https://www.retevis.com/retevis-nr30s-gmrs-waterproof-walkie-talkie-for-long-distance-use-with-ip55-speaker-mic-2pcs-us

BKFD650 (BaKersFielD 650) is operated by WRJF803:

Unfortunately, you cannot transfer a configuration file from a radio with one frequency selection to a radio with another. Nor can you change the frequency selection on the radio you’re programming and then import a configuration file from the same radio when it had a different frequency selection, even if all of the frequencies are compatible. That’s the most aggravating thing I’ve found about this radio.

Good job!!

From the regulations: (b) 462 MHz interstitial channels. Only mobile, hand-held portable and base stations may transmit on these 7 channels. The channel center frequencies are: 462.5625, 462.5875, 462.6125, 462.6375, 462.6625, 462.6875, and 462.7125 MHz. Not only that, but they are limited in power: (b) 462 MHz interstitial channels. The effective radiated power (ERP) of mobile, hand-held portable and base stations transmitting on the 462 MHz interstitial channels must not exceed 5 Watts. Also, for a repeater to function in fill duplex, they listen on one frequency and transmit on another. The offset is 5 MHz, so, your radio would have to transmit to the repeater on a 467 MHz channel. On 462.5625 MHz you’re only allowed half a watt: (c) 467 MHz interstitial channels. The effective radiated power (ERP) of hand-held portable units transmitting on the 467 MHz interstitial channels must not exceed 0.5 Watt. Each GMRS transmitter type capable of transmitting on these channels must be designed such that the ERP does not exceed 0.5 Watt. My suggestion again is to read and understand the regulations. The radio you have was programmed to follow the rules. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-47/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-95/subpart-E

I know people who make their own tubes (it’s not that difficult). I even know some people who have purchased tow winding machines for making them.

Klingons are aliens. It would be compatible with any outdoor antenna tuned to the frequency you’re transmitting on, provided you use the right SMA to either UHF or N connector, whichever the antenna has.

If you get the antenna back and want to replace the PVC with fiberglass, I think i can help you find some strong fiberglass tubes. But it sounds like you have it working well. I wouldn’t mess with it unless you have to.

The first thing you should do is familiarize yourself with the regulations. Repeaters may only transmit on eight frequencies and 462.5625 MHz is not one of them. (a) 462 MHz main channels. Only mobile, hand-held portable, repeater, base and fixed stations may transmit on these 8 channels. The channel center frequencies are: 462.5500, 462.5750, 462.6000, 462.6250, 462.6500, 462.6750, 462.7000, and 462.7250 MHz.

sounds like it might be coextruded, like this: https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=74636 If so, It is engineered to be UV resistant. I have removed metal parts from broken fiberglass tubing by heating the metal with either a high temperature heat gun or even a torch until the epoxy fails. It’s pretty noticeable when it fails because it gives off a puff of smoke. Anyway, it sounds like you did a good job of salvaging that Hustler, despite their lack of help!

I’d be curious to see what effect using pvc rather than fiberglass had on SWR. I know that placing the radiator inside of different materials can change the velocity factor, thus changing the wavelength of the antenna, but I don’t know what the difference will be between pvc and fiberglass. Also, unless you used UV resistant pvc, there’s a probability that the pvc radome will suffer solar embrittlement. UV resistant pvc is used for non-metallic electrical conduit.

I don’t know what’s wrong with the laird, but what about rebuilding the Hustler? Different epoxy resins are more or less susceptible to deteriorating due to sunlight. I lost a rocket out in the hills for a two or three years. When I found it the epoxy on the body tube (very similar to a radome) was fuzzy. The epoxy binding the outermost fiberglass surface together was gone, leaving just the fiberglass fibers sticking out, but deeper into the structure the epoxy was still intact. I’ve been tempted to simply slather it in a good quality epoxy and vacuum bag it to restore the structure. But the fins and the epoxy used to adhere them to the body tube showed no signs of deterioration, so it seems obvious to me that the choice of epoxy resin is extremely important. The epoxy I used to attach the fins to the rocket would have been Aeropoxy laminating epoxy which is available from several sources. This was all a long winded post to suggesting that you replace the radome of the original Hustler antenna with a G10 or FR4 tube. Further, you may wish to paint or perhaps gel coat the radome after rebuilding it, but I don’t know what effect that might have on RF.

Good for you!!

I would love to see the inside to see where the chips originate.

There are a couple on eBay. Here’s one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/156538580363?_skw=russian+azart+radio&itmmeta=01JFDFJWQS1HSZ5DNCCBPZDHT6&hash=item24726d2d8b:g:i-AAAOSwsgdmh17q&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkX4zEjLnWi9fbtoqsfdhL7uO55Zr7nKYlkrSwkccdC34KJ0Nhw41%2B0cP2yv9ANcNzIusmuGKlA98MZKAUL0nP7tXk3aav1YI1yM%2BH4a1RKcPxS88eHVy2zQWlCFWUcjEbvuV%2BVzN9MqXUOtZrL4gIG1aAc4Zr7VOsSRMg1fj5LSx71xas9ayxu58mU3JMXm0ilZ6bP2r1Rey1c%2FbCSRsxIgUfq%2FDLlO3axEBBM5%2F8%2Bk2CzWCGdJZasvV1TRUwuZf8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_rLy6_7ZA

Apparently, UR3QQC has one (or at least had one long enough to make a YouTube video). Unfortunately, that call sign isn’t found in QRZ.com. I liked this section:

If the repeater is in the MyGMRS repeater directory just click on the button to ask for permission.

Then there are some search terms on your desktop that are filtering out the missing repeaters. Frequently it’s the check boxes for stale and offline but sometimes you have to go into the advanced settings.

I absolutely understand that feeling. Don't worry about it. Use the radio, get as much enjoyment as you can. That SWR isn't perfect (and honestly never will be), but it's better than what you had before, so don't let it concern you. I was thinking of your old antenna anyway. Thanks!

Good job! Did you measure the elements while you were there? You are still losing power, obviously, but you definitely deliver more power to the antenna now. Here’s how I cheat : I measure the swr at the antenna. I attach my Bluetooth capable antenna analyzer directly to the antenna and read it on my phone after raising the antenna, but of course I understand that I’ll need to lower the antenna and remove the analyzer. That’s a huge advantage that an analyzer has over a wattmeter; an analyzer generates its own signal and measures both the forward and reflected power then calculates the SWR. But I also generally measure the SWR before I put an antenna up in the first place. Lifting it up above the ground often lowers the SWR but I want to make sure it’s good enough before I put it up. You could also calculate what the SWR is at the antenna based on the measured SWR at the radio and losses anticipated for LMR400. It’s the same calculation I did earlier.