SteveShannon

Please let us know how it works out. Good luck. 

When it comes right down to it, price and size both matter.  The Comet antennas will both have similar build quality, but the size of the Comet CA-712EFC results in better performance and higher price.  It’s also higher gain, which should not be confused with better performance, but should be considered more focused.  If the stations you wish to contact are more or less horizontally aligned with your station, contacts with them will be easier, but if they’re vastly different in elevation (angularity) horizontal gain might actually result in less signal reaching them or coming from them.
The CA-GMRS is a nice size for use in an attic, but you must recognize that its smaller size will result in different performance compared to the 712EFC.  It’s lower gain, so stations that are at a higher or lower angle may be heard better.
I have several Comet and Diamond antennas.  They are well built and perform well for my purposes. If I needed lower gain I would have no compunction about trying the CA-GMRS.  If I wanted higher gain I would get the CA-712EFC.  Both will do well if you mount them correctly and use appropriate feedline.  Neither will overcome topography or otherwise bad circumstances.  If you truly only want to do this once, bite the bullet and get the 712.  The added height is often the determining factor.

Exactly right. Almost every car comes with a power port that accepts the cigarette lighter plug. Although the cigarette lighter plug isn’t what many of us might eventually use, it’s the closest thing there is to being universally available and works well for these low power radios allowing them to be used immediately.  

Would this help?
https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-categories/antennas-mounts/mobile-antenna-mounts/nmo-mobile-antenna-mounts/270-thick-surface-mounts/292-thick-surface-mount-up-to-1-2-/1153-laird-connectivity-mabvt8-detail
 

In my opinion, the best way to do it is to replace that puck with something like this, but you’ll need some kind of sealed bushing to fill the hole the puck required:
https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-categories/antennas-mounts/mobile-antenna-mounts/nmo-mobile-antenna-mounts/266-permanent-hole-mounts/289-nmo-3-4-hole-mount-no-connector/1140-laird-connectivity-mb8-detail

Power and gain does not defeat a terrain dead zone. Having a central located repeater on a high spot is the correct solution. 

I actually was about half done with my test when I remembered the ultra high setting and started over. I don't leave very much on that high of a setting. I would rather the battery last longer and just use what I need to get the job done. But yeah the power setting is probably the thing I forget the most. At least this time I remembered to make sure the battery was 100%.😁

Alright, let me check on my issue. Thank you for the clarification.

Yeh if I were starting with a fresh roof I would go that route, but the hole I drilled is 1 1/4” diameter and that is 3/4” diameter. It’d be so easy to find a 3/8x24tpi nmo male to just thread into it. 
I found something on digikey: maybe this will thread in…. 😬 
 
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/amphenol-pctel/BMATM338/13687616?gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax Shopping_Product_Medium ROAS Categories&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20223376311_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-13687616_sig-Cj0KCQiAy8K8BhCZARIsAKJ8sfQqFauzeZ7C4QiHLgVT-V1JQq3UB6lZXeLRoMr2uko-7BG3nXeb9_caApgSEALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLliIWxjmuHaZB-x47WDNoxzQ9&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy8K8BhCZARIsAKJ8sfQqFauzeZ7C4QiHLgVT-V1JQq3UB6lZXeLRoMr2uko-7BG3nXeb9_caApgSEALw_wcB
 

In my opinion, the best way to do it is to replace that puck with something like this, but you’ll need some kind of sealed bushing to fill the hole the puck required:
https://theantennafarm.com/shop-by-categories/antennas-mounts/mobile-antenna-mounts/nmo-mobile-antenna-mounts/266-permanent-hole-mounts/289-nmo-3-4-hole-mount-no-connector/1140-laird-connectivity-mb8-detail

Both of those mounts that I linked have a SO 239, which allows you to use antennas with a PL-259.  

Who cares? I don't. 🤔

Can you replace your puck mount with this (same manufacturer) and then use any antenna that uses a UHF mount?
https://www.icamanufacturing.com/shop/p/fatboy-puck-3-antenna-mount
Or perhaps this would make better sense and allow you to adapt your existing system to something more widely used:
https://www.icamanufacturing.com/shop/p/so-239-hardware-mount
 

I am looking forward to trying this radio. I have a Nagoya NA-320A triband antenna along with the stock antennas. There are two 220 repeaters near me. I can hear both but only reach one so I am curious if the extra power this gives over the Q10H will be enough to hit the second repeater. I just don't have the time right now to play unfortunately. Family obligations... I hope Chirp is running with this soon, it should be easy enough given the similarities to the 935G, 935G plus and the UV8H.

There’s a real truth bomb!

Not really. I enjoy knowing who else is a ham. I use an alerting software when I do FT8 that watches for specific call signs. I might run into them on the air sometime. 
Like most aspects of life folks should simply ignore it if it doesn’t apply to them. 

Lightning is capable of jumping the gap from the earth to the sky. The gap in a burned fuse would just be ionized fuse metal and highly conductive. Watch a lineman open a switch under load sometime and you’ll immediately understand why fuses can’t interrupt lightning. The contacts would have to operate fast, open far, and something would need to quench the arc. 
However, I’ve heard there are lightning arresters that incorporate inductors to present greater impedance to the rapid onset of voltage along the center conductor of coax. I don’t know anything more about them. When I heard about them I thought I needed to follow up but I didn’t. Sorry. 

How am I supposed to be mad about things that have nothing to do with me if I IGNORE them?

Not really. I enjoy knowing who else is a ham. I use an alerting software when I do FT8 that watches for specific call signs. I might run into them on the air sometime. 
Like most aspects of life folks should simply ignore it if it doesn’t apply to them. 

That’s a terrible design if traffic which triggers the busy channel lockout only occurs after tone squelch. 

Yeah, one of the values of a properly designed busy channel lockout is to prevent interfering with transmissions you might not hear because of tone squelch.  This design completely fails.  
 

Either they changed something, or yours is broken (or something else is preventing transmission). I have 4 that I just tested, all of them will Tx with the keypad lock *on*. Both when I lock it manually, and when I let it auto-lock.
 

That’s a terrible design if traffic which triggers the busy channel lockout only occurs after tone squelch. 

I think they just put it there in case you had one and wanted to share, you could fill it in. The caveat being the way the profile section is configured it shows percent complete and it seems to irk some people they can't get to 100%. The better action is to remove the percent complete business from the profile, as this isn't the first time this question has been asked. 

I received the new KG-935H yesterday and ran test on high power this morning with a fresh battery using my Surecom SW-102 and a *dummy load, here is what I got. I posted my KG-Q10H at ultra high setting results for comparison. I have not had a chance to take it out in the world as of yet.
* I mention this because obviously MURS and GMRS are not type approved and MURS output is way high at these settings. This is only a test, if this had been an actual emergency you would have heard screaming 😂
KG-935H
2m - 8.8 watts
1.25m - 4.6 watts
70cm - 8.4 watts
GMRS - 6.8 watts rept, 7.4 watts smpx 
MURS - 9.7 watts
KG-Q10H
2m - 4.5 watts
1.25m - 2.9 watts
70cm -  6.5 watts
6m - 1.1 watts
GMRS - 5.5 watts
MURS - 4.6 watts