73blazer

I've had it just over a year. No problems whatsoever. I have a Diamond Dual band 70cm/2m SRJ77CA antenna on it which is just about as good as a 771G Nagoya in GMRS bands. One time it came unclipped from my side-by-side and fell off and was left outside on the ground being rained on for over a week, before I found it I actually drove over it with the sxs. No damage at all! My HAM buddies sometimes rib me for running a "Chinese" radio. All I have to do is say, yeah, but it's dual band and only costs $160. And good luck finding a dual band HT that isn't Chinese and doesn't cost $1000+ and you don't need a $100/mo subscription to program it. I have one of the only other ones I know of a Yaesu FT65 (yes it says made in japan on it) while a decent radio a) it isn't chirp compatible and their software sucks , chirp says it works, and it takes the load but the chirp driver is broken as it adds a DCS code to every channel programed, in addition to any PL code which isn't even possible with it's menu's or software b) it's audio quality on both TX and RX can't hold a candle to the Wouxun.

I run the UV8H. This is my main HT radio. Same exact radio as the 935 hardware-wise. Great radio! But it's not a GMRS radio, it's a HAM radio. You can use Chirp, if you were so inclined, to unlock the 8H to transmit GMRS. In those bands it only transmits 5.5-5.6w (which is why the 935 is labeled a 5.5w radio)> it transmits over 8w on VHF and 6-7 on most HAM uhf bands. The menu's are more or less the same as the 935 (I have those too I hand out to our hunting and off-road groups) they are just labeled rather oddly. It may be missing one or two features of the "plus" model, I dunno I don't have those only the 935 non-plus. Read thru the manual and you'll get a sense for it. And you can use it as a cross-band repeater, as in it receives VHF and re-transmits on UHF bands or vice-versa.

Try Richmond 725 141.3 . Not sure if it's operational yet I think it is. I don't think there's too many people using GMRS for simplex cold contacts as you usually have to be within a few miles of them unless someones on a tower or mountain.

Uh...have you looked at the map. There's loads of repeaters around there. Three should be easily reachable. Depending where in St. Clair county Mayville 550 or Macomb 675. Actually there's two in Mayville the 600 which used to be Michigamme network and the 550. Usually plenty of traffic on the Mayville and Macomb. Throw your call out someone will respond.

Now it's let me in!

I just asked a specific question, where is the violation in the FCC database .....as you described, based on your post saying very explicitly that there was a letter sent in the mail from the FCC outlining a violation complete with proposed fine and being that no such enforcement action exists, it sounds alot more like the operator(s) took down the linking at their own volition rather than any FCC action. I was just curious to see the actual violation wording and sections violated and how, but being that no such letter or action actually exists, I guess that's not possible. The call sign you mention does not appear to be a user on this forum as such the only way for me to contact said call sign is via USPS from the address listed in the call sign FCC database. It was a pointed specific question, no whining my friend. The only whining appears to be coming from an exclusive source.

@WRXL702 your post said it was all "All Documented In The FCC Website For Violations..... " Well, if it's not in the FCC database of enforcement actions....it's not an official action and certainly not be anything anyone would have needed to act upon unless they wanted to. And any "proposed fine" (the wording the fcc always uses) or "pending fine" would certainly be documented in the FCC database and there appears to be none. So I'd love to know what kind of communication they actually received, because whatever it was, it was not official. And they almost never propose a fine until they have contacted you first (which would be documented in their enforcement database as well) asking nicely to cease whatever activity your doing that is breaking the rules and wait their requisite period of time for a response, after a no response then they *may* issue a proposed fine. Was it like the NY systems "friendly" email from the FCC guy under the table saying you should probably shut those down or you might get an actual letter?

Is there a link to this violation notice? I just had a look at every type of enforcement action from July thru Nov and cannot find any notice of violation pertaining to GMRS, linking or $20k fine. I just picked every type, date july 1st thru today and nothing. Their search tool isn't the best, I could be missing something.

Amazon

He really only calls ham's a sad ham if...well your a sad ham. Otherwise, your a happy ham. Mabey you should watch this video:

Remember the days when your name, your wife's name, address and phone number were published for all to see in a book then promptly mailed free of charge without anyone asking, to everyones house! I was just searching my name today for fun, it's pretty funny, it says I'm single, I'm not, it says I went to a high school I never went to or even lived anywhere close to it. It says my net worth is pennies while my yearly income is some giant number. And says my family members include people who's names I've never heard of. It says my past address while correct, was from 2000 when I havn't lived there since college in 1989. The interweb gets ALOT wrong. But i'm sure the media would be happy to publish it as fact.

I think what they mean to say is the current could flow through the radio during a high current event with some failure point. If say your negative ground from your starter were to break or corrode badly enough (which is common in older vehicles) , the the current or part of it *could* find it's way through your radio through the negative lead

It has something to do with current finding another path to flow via the antenna or it's shielding during high current events, like starting, or winching. They say if wiring radio direct to battery, use fuses on both. If your negative lead is grounded to the chassis, you don';t need a fuse on the negative. I'd have to read more about it to figure out exactly what the scenarios are and why.

All three are the same. Same type and rating. 15amp fuses. Two on the positive lead, one on the negative lead. I almost think the 2nd one on the positive lead was a mistake? I dunno. But interestingly enough, they also give you 6 extra fuses in the box. And I can't say I've ever seen a fuse on the negative lead unless it was a positive ground old ford vehicle.

Well, your allowed to your opinion. I've built many vehicles and I've always used aircraft breakers. The W31 type are far better than any fuse out there. These are not the typical pull type, those are slower. I've compared the specs between what I have and typical auto fuses. But you have your opinions so who am I to try and change them. I used a connector because I move the radio between three vehicles. And it's sealed because I powerwash the inside of my K5. ANd don't worry the spec on the delphi connector is well above it's rated amps, and I use the class above what's called for. But you have your opinions so keep on keepin on. I wired the center console years ago for a CB radio, so 14ga was well enough. It still is for any 15amp circuit. 15amps calls for 18ga min, so I'm really already two gauges higher. It's a short run and as I've indicated, voltage drop at full transmit is .2v, so...14ga is obviously well enough. In a typical vehicle I would agree, direct to battery is best as most acc's outlets use 18ga wire on a 15amp fuse routed through many extra feet of stuff and other connectors. But if you keep doing direct to battery for all your high power accessories, amps, subs, radios, winches, trailer brakes.... etc...etc..etc...you'll have a mess of crap to hook to your battery which causes it's own problems. My circuits are well designed and short. So, it basically is direct to battery.