73blazer

Amazon

He really only calls ham's a sad ham if...well your a sad ham. Otherwise, your a happy ham. Mabey you should watch this video:

Remember the days when your name, your wife's name, address and phone number were published for all to see in a book then promptly mailed free of charge without anyone asking, to everyones house! I was just searching my name today for fun, it's pretty funny, it says I'm single, I'm not, it says I went to a high school I never went to or even lived anywhere close to it. It says my net worth is pennies while my yearly income is some giant number. And says my family members include people who's names I've never heard of. It says my past address while correct, was from 2000 when I havn't lived there since college in 1989. The interweb gets ALOT wrong. But i'm sure the media would be happy to publish it as fact.

I think what they mean to say is the current could flow through the radio during a high current event with some failure point. If say your negative ground from your starter were to break or corrode badly enough (which is common in older vehicles) , the the current or part of it *could* find it's way through your radio through the negative lead

It has something to do with current finding another path to flow via the antenna or it's shielding during high current events, like starting, or winching. They say if wiring radio direct to battery, use fuses on both. If your negative lead is grounded to the chassis, you don';t need a fuse on the negative. I'd have to read more about it to figure out exactly what the scenarios are and why.

All three are the same. Same type and rating. 15amp fuses. Two on the positive lead, one on the negative lead. I almost think the 2nd one on the positive lead was a mistake? I dunno. But interestingly enough, they also give you 6 extra fuses in the box. And I can't say I've ever seen a fuse on the negative lead unless it was a positive ground old ford vehicle.

Well, your allowed to your opinion. I've built many vehicles and I've always used aircraft breakers. The W31 type are far better than any fuse out there. These are not the typical pull type, those are slower. I've compared the specs between what I have and typical auto fuses. But you have your opinions so who am I to try and change them. I used a connector because I move the radio between three vehicles. And it's sealed because I powerwash the inside of my K5. ANd don't worry the spec on the delphi connector is well above it's rated amps, and I use the class above what's called for. But you have your opinions so keep on keepin on. I wired the center console years ago for a CB radio, so 14ga was well enough. It still is for any 15amp circuit. 15amps calls for 18ga min, so I'm really already two gauges higher. It's a short run and as I've indicated, voltage drop at full transmit is .2v, so...14ga is obviously well enough. In a typical vehicle I would agree, direct to battery is best as most acc's outlets use 18ga wire on a 15amp fuse routed through many extra feet of stuff and other connectors. But if you keep doing direct to battery for all your high power accessories, amps, subs, radios, winches, trailer brakes.... etc...etc..etc...you'll have a mess of crap to hook to your battery which causes it's own problems. My circuits are well designed and short. So, it basically is direct to battery.

Why are there three fuses on the lead wires that come with this radio?!?!?!? And the fuse holders are garbage. When I installed this in my K5 Blazer, which I rebuilt and wired completely from scratch myself not using any those kits, all with modern SXL wiring, sealed connectors etc. Anyway, I put a 15 amp circuit to the center console which I built to hold a radio. It has two nice 14ga sxl wires running to it protected with aircraft style circuit breakers (P&B W31 type, almost no fuses on my truck) , when I first hooked this radio up to those wires leaving the factory wouxun leads, standing voltage with truck running was 14.1V and during transmit on high (50w) voltage dropped to 12.3v and the power meter read 34w on GMRS17. I could jiggle the fuse holders and watch the voltage and power jump up and down. I cut off the wouxun leads , the connector and all three fuses, and put my own connector on reconnected it to the same leads in my center console and voltage drop during transmit was 13.9v and power meter read 48w on GMRS17. Leave it to the Chinese to make a really nice radio and put some really crappy fuse holders and connectors to power it. I'll trust my circuit breaker over those crappy fire hazard unsealed fuse holders they use. And why's there three of them!?!??!?!?!?!

This is quite common with Chinese manufacturers, I think they think more websites is better or something. Try finding the driver for the Retevis programming cable. YOu can go to retevis.com or retevissolutions.com each have different versions of the driver. One has links to Allunice.com to another driver version. Each display most of the same radios and stuff but each also has some stuff only on it's website as well. I found this when buying bitcoin miners from China as well. Same deal there, multiple websites showing mostly same stuff but different firmware versions, some different miners, etc.

It wasn't like that two years ago when I renewed my GMRS license. Which was the last time I was on it.

ULS has been timing out, locking up, and the picks that do make it seem to take 1m or so to come up. Been like this for days. I thought mabey it was just my machine or my browser, nope, I tried from my phone not on wifi, same thing, tried from a work computer, same thing. Tried multiple browsers. I'm just trying to check on my new HAM license that's supposed to show up there any day. I have zero confidence it actually will. CORES was super slow as well but at least worked. It took my monies anyway. Anyone actually get a GMRS recently in there? Most of the time ULS ends in this after a minute or so:

I have this radio. It's the one I carry when I'm by myself hiking or kayaking in areas with no cell coverage and I've programmed in all the HAM repeaters I can hit in the areas I go in case I get into some trouble. Mine is unlocked and works on GMRS although when in an area with GMRS repeaters I don't use this radio. My biggest complaint with it is the transmit audio quality, how you sound to others, is not so great. Low audio and even if your ontop of a repeater or close simplex, audio carries some background hiss.

I've never experienced this with my 905G's. The biggest complaint I have about the 905G is the PTT pressure is far too light. You put it in your front coat pocket or on your belt the button gets pressed by passing clothing. I can tell every time my uncle gets out of his blind to go mess with something as you hear his radio butt calling you constantly as he moves around. I'd prefer an adjustable trigger , I mean um, PTT. The 905G's PTT is setup as a hair trigger.But unlike my favorite rifle, there's no easy way to disassemble the 905 and adjust your PTT pressure.

Yep, the 935G is just a good solid performer in all conditions, and with the 771G antenna on it, I don't think it can be beat in the GMRS HT class. I have not tried a newer 6w KG-Q10G but the reports of non-removable or glued on antennas, I'm not so sure. The 771G gives my 935G an extra clarity at the far ranges.

In case you didn't get to the part that says it, this is heavy forest. Not a line of trees, not a few trees sprinkled around. Solid heavy forest mostly all 1-2' diameter (or more) white and red oak, maple, hickory from 50-80' tall complete with lots of ground brush, for many square miles. And it's all very flat, so no side has any elevation advantage. I invite you to come here with your 4 or 5w HT so you too, can experience radio ED. I've extensively tested many different HT's in these woods, HAM's, MURS, CB, business, GMRS on frequencies from 29 (or whatever CB is) to 800mhz range. From $25 Baofangs to $600 motorolas. No 4-6w HT goes more than 1.5mi simplex. If you also didn't catch it, I can use the repeater 18mi to the north, so..of course once the signal gets out of the canopy and in the open it goes it's usual, many miles. Why do I want to go simplex that far in these woods? Simple, I was tasked (volunteered) by our hunting group, to find a set of radios we could actually talk on reliably without contorting ourselves or having to find a small hill or open area, in a very similar woods where we all sit about in about a 1.25mi radius. The KG935G fit the bill. 4w, does not at least not reliably without having to go find a small open area or stand in particular positions. Plus in these woods I go out cuttin wood (we heat with wood) in our back 40 and there's also no/unreliable cell signal here, so my wife sometimes likes to get a hold of me when I'm out "playing" in the woods. This is why I wanted to try the 10w HT's as the extra wattage, based on my experience, in these woods, helps to penetrate the heavy forest. But in this case, the RT29 disappoints for reasons mentioned in the original post.