MarkInTampa
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Posts posted by MarkInTampa
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19 hours ago, Lscott said:
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19 hours ago, Lscott said:
Well this got a lot of comments from people and photos taken at the Hamvention last May. The match was about 1.1:1 or so at our group frequency of 448.5MHz. It’s a 1/4 wave design. Ran DMR at 1 watt so the average power was about 0.5 watts.
I went to a local hamfest a few weeks ago and a few of us radio users that have never met decided to meet up. One of the guys said to find me, just "look for the odd ball, it will be me" but wouldn't say what to look for. He had a hat with a antenna kinda like yours, we found him.
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The strongest GMRS repeater by far in my area runs analog and P25 and has been for years. It's not exactly a secret, the NAC is published on their web page. P25 is seldom used, maybe a few times a week but almost every time it is used I'll hear folks freaking out about "what that noise is", "isn't that illegal", "how do I block it", etc. It's not my repeater so I really don't care.
We also had a repeater move frequency a month or so ago move due to somebody running encrypted DMR on the same frequency and causing interference with his repeater. That kinda sucks for me, now I have two repeaters (one 10 miles west, the other 35 miles southeast) pegging the S-meter on the same frequency but at least they are on different tones.
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I've got a VGC VR-N7500 Bluetooth 50watt base radio that is totally controlled by a Android or iPhone app, doesn't even have a head on it. The Bluetooth works about 40ft, good enough that can sit on the back porch with my tablet or cellphone to use it but not on the other side of the house. However if I leave my tablet connected to the radio and on internet, I can run the app on my cellphone and access the radio anywhere over internet (kinda like Zello) and can control the frequency and tone of the radio remotely - but not scan or other features. It's a fun radio to play with but I hate the interface so it sits on the shelf most of the time.
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6 hours ago, WRDC898 said:
I'd much prefer a separate speaker altogether for clarity and use one for my Icom 7000 Ham radio. You really don't need HI-Fidelity when your on a net, but something that has peak response in just the vocal range. A speaker that peaks from 200hz to 1khz is all you need as well as good enclosure.
Just want a nice clean desk. I have a remote head radio and keep the radio and power supply up and away from me to keep fan noise down a bit but also rules out the internal speaker. Right now I'm using a old TEAC desktop stereo speaker tucked behind the monitor. I needed to blow $20 at DX Engineering to get free shipping on a order and picked up one of their $20 external radio speakers. What a joke - my HT speaker sounds better. Guess you get what you pay for.
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I'd like to run the amplified external speaker jack of my base station to my desktop computer just to mix in with the computer speakers. Has anybody got a recommendation on an adapter to drop the speaker out to line level or as a USB sound device?
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I was doing a job a few years ago and picked up 6 "Ozark Trail" FRS HT's from Walmart in two packs. Just found one of them in a box yesterday and it does have a default ctcss tone of 67.0 across 22 channels.
Range sucks on them - we installed truck parking detectors at the interstate rest areas and had to validate and time stamp every truck that came in and out of the parking lot to make sure the system was working. They had a hard time trying to make it across the parking lot, had to sit outdoors in the middle of the lot to coordinate things. Battery life is excellent on them, one of the guys forgot to turn the radio off when he threw it in the back of my car. Every now and then for the better part of a month I'd hear a muffled voice when driving for a second and couldn't figure out where it was coming from before I found it (low battery chirps). At least it didn't interfere with the voices in my head.
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2 hours ago, kidphc said:
Have you unitrunker? How is it? I recommended giving it a try to someone whom was trying to listen to p25 and dmr trunked systems.
Out of of a lot of the software that was kinda free it had something that had something like a GUI vs dsd+ (I think that is what it was called).
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Haven't tried Unitrunker. I thought you had to have at least two SDR receivers to track trunked systems. I just have one at the moment (DX Patrol) but looking at getting different as a 2nd SDR receiver - looking at a RSPduo but find it hard to stomach the $300.
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SDR Sharp with Simple APCO (p25) and Simple DMR plugins most of the time. Simple point and click the waterfall for analog and most unencrypted DMR and P25 traffic. Kinda like HDSDR for the limited HF I listen too though. I'm a Windows guy and currently have HDSDR, SDR Console, SDR Sharp, SDR Uno, SDR++, SDR Trunk and SDR Angel installed. Spektrum is a pretty cool as well, makes your SDR dongle into a quick down and dirty spectrum analyzer and actually works pretty good.
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A Hytera HR65X or HR106X repeater will link across internet out of the box.
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Two repeaters 24/7 at 30 miles. On rare occasion when the conditions are right there is a monster repeater 160 miles away. I am in Florida - not a lot of mountains.
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6 hours ago, wayoverthere said:
so...i have version 2.6 for PC installed (dug around and i still even had the installer file for it), and it DOES offer the option to "Create new Zello account" on the login screen. That said, they seem to have removed this version of the software from the website, and appear to only list the business focused version (with associated subscription fee).
Thanks for this! I downloaded the PC version of Zello from Zello yesterday (188mb) and couldn't get it to work right or even log in correctly with my existing account. The version you have is only 3.5mb and works like a champ.
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On 4/8/2023 at 5:24 PM, WRWR489 said:
Use DSD plus fastlane with your dongle for the best public service you can get, 35 Bucks for lifetime and it handles simulcast better than any of my scanners. 10 Bucks for a year if you want to try it.
Since I've started this thread I've switched over to SDR# with Simple APCO (P25) and Simple DMR free plugins. Doesn't do simulcast but works great for monitoring un-encrypted business and ham DMR and P25 with a simple point and click on the signal. Keep meaning to try out Fastlane, just haven't had a chance.
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22 minutes ago, KAF6045 said:
The upper loop is meant to be an RF choke, blocking RF from travelling down the outside of the coax shield. A drip loop is just a down below entrance point, U up and then across through entrance point. The goal is for the lowest part of the U to be outside and where you don't mind have rain water dripping off the coax.
10-4. Right now it's not a problem and the cable feeds way low (through doggy door) and back up into a window so it's not a issue at the moment. However right next to the antenna mast base (see first picture) is a cut and orphaned CATV drop going through the wall. My radio sits directly behind the antenna and that hole. I plan on reusing the hole for the coax, just don't have a masonry bit for a hole large enough to pass a terminated coax through. Hate buying a bit for a one time use, need to bum one from somebody at work. But I will keep the drip loop in mind when I do it.
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26 minutes ago, WRWR489 said:
I have my telescoping flag pole on the way. It will be secured to my second story deck railing and a five gallon bucket of concrete for the base then secured to the fascia board 8 feet up. On top will be my tuned today Tram 1486.
A 50 foot run of Times Microwave LMR400 to the wouxon 1000g and the house service ground directly below the deck.
I just did a flag pole for my antenna (Comet GP-6 GMRS/MURS) yesterday, see the thread I posted earlier today if it helps you any.
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2 minutes ago, WRKC935 said:
Looks good and it will get the job done. You need to get some outdoor rated ties and properly fasten the cable to the pole though. Those little zip ties will harden up in about 6 months and fall apart. They do make UV rated ties, and that's what needs to be used.
Also, you need to put a drip loop in the cable. The way it's run right now, water will get on the cable and ride it down to the point it enters the building and probably run into the building if it's not totally sealed. This will cause water ingress and the problems that come with it. Think P-trap for plumbing. Create a low spot in the cable run and then have the cable come back up a little so the water runs to the lowest point and then falls off the wire before it gets to the entrance of the building.
Didn't think about the zip ties being UV rated, I'll take care of that. The cable actually runs low through a doggie door next to the antenna and back up into a window right next to it. I did put a loop per manufactures (Comet) instructions at the antenna mount.
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I wanted a 30ft or so antenna mast/pole but didn't want any guy wires if I could help it. In walking the neighborhood with the doggo I saw a few neighbors that have flag poles and thought to myself that would make a great antenna mast. So I ordered up a 30ft telescoping aluminum flag pole from Home Depot for $160 and it came in yesterday but was kinda bummed that they shipped me a sectional flag pole and not telescoping that I ordered. It's a mixed blessing I suppose. I'd assume the telescoping pole and every section being a smaller diameter tube as it goes up is going to be a bit weaker than a sectional pole that has all the same size of tube but the telescoping would have been much easier to work with. Also with the telescoping pole there is a chance of water intrusion between each section of pole and on the sectional pole there is not.
I used expanding fence post foam for the pole base sleeve, used it before when building a fence and it held up a 6ft tall and 4ft wide wood gate so figured it should work in this case and I'm to lazy to use concrete. I also decided to clamp it to the side of the house even though it could be used free standing. It made it a lot easier to level the pole when pouring in the foam for the base sleeve. Also figured it would make the pole a bit stronger and easier to work with. If I want to lower the pole, just loosen up the clamps and remove sections as needed. Not as easy as a telescoping pole would have been though like I planned.
Overall I think it came out decent, just have to wait for a windy day to see how much it sways in the wind. I can guy it if I have to but time will tell.
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Out of curiosity, what makes a repeater go into the stale status? A new GMRS user in my area was asking why our #1 by far repeater for the area wasn't on the MyGMRS map when I know it was there last month. It is off the map but now shows as a stale repeater when it is not. It's still a public use repeater using travel tone and the webpage for it also invites public use. It does show last updated "a year ago". Does the owner of the repeater have to check in ever now and then to keep the status up?
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27 minutes ago, WRQC527 said:
Is it just me or does the notion of a "dual band" GMRS handheld seem a bit odd? GMRS is one band.
But you must not have known about the Tera TR-505 dual band GMRS radio with "Optional (MURS) VHF license free channels" if you buy the programming cable (obviously sarcasm)....
https://powerwerx.com/tera-tr505-gmrs-recreational-handheld-radio -
2 hours ago, Lscott said:
The antennas are hand built. You might have got one that was better constructed. Also the connectors on the end can influence the results too. I have two of these antennas, both dual band. One is cut for MURS/GMRS and the other is for 2M/70cm. I forget which connector is on which antenna. One had a PL-259 plug while the other one had an "N" connector.
I might take some time to re-scan the MURS/GMRS version.
I've attached the scans I did for the 2M/70cm version.
I found some scans, the photos are poor quality, the builder posted on his web site. They are for the Ham bands. The best I can see it the UHF scan shows an SWR of 1.82(?) at 439MHz and 1.34(?) at 450MHz.
N9TAX-2M-70CM-VHF Scan.pdf 285.04 kB · 0 downloads N9TAX-2M-70CM-UHF Scan.pdf 285.33 kB · 0 downloads
Mine has a 16ft pigtail with a SMA connector on it. I never ran a SWR sweep on it for MURS until just now - it is actually quite good!
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3 hours ago, Lscott said:
I've done an SWR scan of the dual band, MURS and GMRS, version I have. The testing was done with the antenna hanging by a non-conductive cord. These antennas are not that broad-banded.
https://forums.mygmrs.com/gallery/image/284-n9tax-murs-gmrs-scansjpg/
I did a SWR scan on my N9TAX GMRS Slim Jim as well, a bit different than yours. Overall I'd say it's a decent antenna for what it is and the price point. Much, much better than using a Nagoya 771G on a HT but sucks compared to my Comet GP-6 that cost 5x as much. After getting the Comet I relegated the Slim Jim as a scanner antenna for my SDR setup and it actually does a wonderful job for that. I bought a MFJ Discone antenna to replace it with but the Slim Jim actually performs better than the discone on receive, go figure...
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41 minutes ago, Sshannon said:
If you do a thread on this I’ll subscribe.
How about a grounding question. I've got a spool of 14AWG sold and a spool of 12AWG stranded green ground wire laying around, don't know if that's good enough. Would you suggest grounding just the pole, run the wire up with the coax and ground just the antenna, do both or isolate the antenna from the pole using something like a PVC sleeve and ground just the antenna?
Repeater Testing
in Technical Discussion
Posted
I picked up a Vertex VXR-7000u repeater for a heck of a deal without a duplexer that I would like to test to make sure it works. It does power up fine. I need to order up a programming cable to find the frequency it's set at and ordered one last night. For testing since I don't have a duplexer, can I run the repeater WITHOUT a RX antenna since I'm sitting right next to it with the TX antenna hanging 40ft directly above me? Would not connecting a RX antenna provide enough isolation to test? Hate to buy a duplexer if the repeater doesn't work.