Retevis RA25- 20W GMRS mobile

[MichaelLAX]

Strange that it shows different draws on RECEIVING!

[wayoverthere]

9 minutes ago, pcradio said:

For fun, I wanted to see the power draw on the Retevis RA25 mobile radio. I connected it to an AC to DC Converter 12V 5A 60W Power Adapter (Alitov brand.) . Then the adapter was plugged into a Kill-A-Watt meter.

 

Idle
~ 2W
~ .06A

Receiving on channel 16 (462.575) high power
~ 10W
~ .10A

Receiving on channel 16 (462.575) medium power
~ 4W
~ .06A

Receiving on channel 16 (462.575) low power
~ 3W
~ .06A

Transmitting on channel 16 (462.5750) high power
~ 48W
~ .71A

Transmitting on channel 16 (462.5750) medium power
~ 32W
~ .51A

Transmitting on channel 10 (467.6125) low power
~ 20W
~ .33A

 

Interesting to note what it's drawing on the 120v side of things. Also slightly curious why receiving draw would be different depending on transmit levels.

I was curious what my mxt115 draws, and since my alinco psu has power poles on the front along with a digital display, I put an adapter together and plugged it in, got 1.4A on low power and 3.5A on high, iirc, both at 13.8v.

[K9EMD]

I just got one of these RA25 radios and I am not able to edit the CTCSS/DCS codes no matter what model I pick.  Can anyone help me?  I have both Retevis and Radioddity software downloaded and unable to modify (add) some local repeaters that use CTSCC/DCS codes. 

Thanks.

[MichaelLAX]

Apparently the Ra-25 will only work with the Retevis programming software and cannot use either the Radioddity or Anytone software.

But you should be able to modify the Tones in the Retevis software:

Are you double clicking on the >> in the More column for the particular Channel that you want to edit the Tone?

[K9EMD]

I tried to load to the radio from the software Retevis and it tells me "Frequency is wrong!" when I try and load my list.  I tried switching the model and just to try and load the 2 frequencies that are in the software and I get Frequency is wrong.  I did get the software to let me program my frequencies for repeaters but I keep getting the same frequency is wrong message.  I have chose all the models and keep getting frequency is wrong.  I am starting to think you can not put your own frequencies into this radio.  

[MichaelLAX]

Which freqs come up as "Frequency is wrong?"

[K9EMD]

Ok, so I got it to work......forgot to read the radio after I changed to the non-gmrs setting in the radio.....like I said still learning. 

[cowboypilot]

I did up a python script that will take a chirp csv export and merge it with a Retevis CPS export that you can then open in the Retevis software and load into the radio.  Until Chirp figures out how to support it this has helped me quite a bit.  I developed this on an unlocked radio but it very well may work on the other modes.  It just strips the header and encodes the CSV into the retevis format.  

ChirpImport v1.0.py

[WRYS709]

7 hours ago, cowboypilot said:

I did up a python script that will take a chirp csv export and merge it with a Retevis CPS export that you can then open in the Retevis software and load into the radio.  Until Chirp figures out how to support it this has helped me quite a bit.  I developed this on an unlocked radio but it very well may work on the other modes.  It just strips the header and encodes the CSV into the retevis format.  

ChirpImport v1.0.py 11.64 kB · 0 downloads

Is there a tutorial that you can link those of us unfamiliar with snakes on how to take your file and execute it?

[Davichko5650]

Just got the Radioddity db20 version of this radio, so far liking it. A/B tested it against the ancient MXT275 I have and seems, subjectively, to have a much better receiver the the MIdland. Possibly the transmitter as well, able to hit a couple of repeaters farther out that I could never hear before due to the MXT275 no doing split tones (I did say ancient - pre usb-c model). It was very easy, albeit time consuming, to program right on the radio itself, but will be looking into doing it with the CPS software from Radioddity.  Came in a bundle with the GM-30 HT, which also wasn't too bad programming on the radio. Tried Odmaster as it shows a Beta version for the GM-30, but no go. Seemed to have misplaced my Baofeng cable, so ordered a new one. 

Will see how it goes long term and still looking at mounting options besides jamming in in the space between the center console and the passenger seat.

[WRYS709]

9 hours ago, Davichko5650 said:

Will see how it goes long term and still looking at mounting options besides jamming in in the space between the center console and the passenger seat.

There is a post on this forum somewhere that shows how to use an inexpensive plumbers cap to make a cup-holder mount that easily connects to that radio; I use one in the EV with the cigarette lighter plug and a $20 dual band mag-mount from Letsgetreadyinc.com  

In my shack I find that the DB20-G outperforms my Yaesu FT-857d FM on 2 meters and 440 MHz with the rooftop antenna.

Let me know if you can get Odmaster to work; I am not optimistic as some reports on the Chirp website say Radioddity used a non-common serial port protocols in their communications protocol with the RJ-45 cable.

[amaff]

18 hours ago, Davichko5650 said:

Just got the Radioddity db20 version of this radio, so far liking it. A/B tested it against the ancient MXT275 I have and seems, subjectively, to have a much better receiver the the MIdland. Possibly the transmitter as well, able to hit a couple of repeaters farther out that I could never hear before due to the MXT275 no doing split tones (I did say ancient - pre usb-c model). It was very easy, albeit time consuming, to program right on the radio itself, but will be looking into doing it with the CPS software from Radioddity.  Came in a bundle with the GM-30 HT, which also wasn't too bad programming on the radio. Tried Odmaster as it shows a Beta version for the GM-30, but no go. Seemed to have misplaced my Baofeng cable, so ordered a new one. 

Will see how it goes long term and still looking at mounting options besides jamming in in the space between the center console and the passenger seat.

Radioddity's programming software works. It's a little clunky, like a lot of CPSs, and doesn't allow keyboard-shortcut copy and pasting, but will, using a mouse. Annoying, but if you're like me, once you get the thing programmed the cable won't get used again for years.

RE mounting it, it's small and light enough that you might be able to get away with some good Velcro...in the space between the center console and the seat.

[WRYS709]

1 hour ago, amaff said:

RE mounting it, it's small and light enough that you might be able to get away with some good Velcro...in the space between the center console and the seat.

Two problems with that mount:

1) You're blocking the speaker on the bottom with the seat and

2) In my experience, it gets HOT! Does not look like there is enough space for cooling.

[amaff]

9 minutes ago, WRYS709 said:

Two problems with that mount:

1) You're blocking the speaker on the bottom with the seat and

2) In my experience, it gets HOT! Does not look like there is enough space for cooling.

Fair, from that picture.
1. yes, and it's literally not a problem. It's got plenty of volume. Most of the time I have it to less than half. And the speaker is mounted under that surface so it's not like it's actually touching the seat.

2. It's not as close as it looks. It's not super clear in the picture but I have the bracket velcroed to the console. So it has the same air-gap to the heat sink as it would mounted to any other surface. So far it's been there a couple months. Maybe I don't spend as much time on the PTT button as others, but even after having a, for me, lengthy conversation, the case was warm but never hot to the touch. Even on high power.

[Davichko5650]

11 hours ago, WRYS709 said:

There is a post on this forum somewhere that shows how to use an inexpensive plumbers cap to make a cup-holder mount that easily connects to that radio; I use one in the EV with the cigarette lighter plug and a $20 dual band mag-mount from Letsgetreadyinc.com  

In my shack I find that the DB20-G outperforms my Yaesu FT-857d FM on 2 meters and 440 MHz with the rooftop antenna.

Let me know if you can get Odmaster to work; I am not optimistic as some reports on the Chirp website say Radioddity used a non-common serial port protocols in their communications protocol with the RJ-45 cable.

I actually have a cupholder mount already cooking in the Exploder - has my FT-891 on it (the shole radio, not just the head unit. So going to pop the two front top screws off the 891 and affix the bracket for the db20 there. Just need the time to do it!

Will keep looking at Odmaster to see if they update beyond a Beta for the GM-30.  Will also be looking at comparing the db-20 to my Kenwood 281a

[Davichko5650]

On 5/20/2024 at 11:42 PM, WRYS709 said:

There is a post on this forum somewhere that shows how to use an inexpensive plumbers cap to make a cup-holder mount that easily connects to that radio; I use one in the EV with the cigarette lighter plug and a $20 dual band mag-mount from Letsgetreadyinc.com  

 

Here's the mounted DB20-G in the Exploder. More great radios for Wifeypoo to admire!

 

 

[WRYS709]

OMG: which radio is on the dash?

[Davichko5650]

11 minutes ago, WRYS709 said:

OMG: which radio is on the dash?

 

11 minutes ago, WRYS709 said:

OMG: which radio is on the dash?

Oops, clicked Quote twice - That's the Kenwood TM-281a 2 meter radio.  Been velcro'd to the dash for 4 years now!

[WRYS709]

8 hours ago, Davichko5650 said:

 

Oops, clicked Quote twice - That's the Kenwood TM-281a 2 meter radio.  Been velcro'd to the dash for 4 years now!

 

8 hours ago, Davichko5650 said:

 

Oops, clicked Quote twice - That's the Kenwood TM-281a 2 meter radio.  Been velcro'd to the dash for 4 years now!

Is there an echo in here!? 

How does the DB20-G compare in fars to your Kenwood? It out performs my Yaesu FT-857d on FM, but that's 20 watts compared to 20 watts.  Your Kenwood is up to 65 watts?

[Davichko5650]

18 hours ago, WRYS709 said:

 

Is there an echo in here!? 

How does the DB20-G compare in fars to your Kenwood? It out performs my Yaesu FT-857d on FM, but that's 20 watts compared to 20 watts.  Your Kenwood is up to 65 watts?

Since the Kenwood is a 2 meter Amateur rig, can't compare, I only have the DB20 set up for GMRS.  I've talked simplex a good 250+ miles on it when we've had some tropospheric ducting. Around the city I can get a good 15-20 miles simplex, with repeaters I can talk around the entire Twin Cities metro area. 65 watts of pure Kenwood Fars!

But so far with the DB-20G, I'm getting into 3 of the metro area repeaters, two are located about 10-12 miles distant, the other one is about 15 or so distant.  The two closer ones come in full quieting, the father out one, in N Minneapolis, I getting about an S5-7 reading back and slightly scratchy audio.

Next step is to rig up the MXT275 at home so Wifeypoo(tm) can call me in the mobile, then we'll see what kinda Fars we get on Simplex and with the one repeater that doesn't run split tones

[amaff]

On 8/30/2021 at 11:27 AM, MichaelLAX said:

Programming a repeater channel without using a computer:
......

Use the Up and Down arrow keys to set your offset split, such as 5.00000MHz or 0.60000MHz (you can hold down the Up or Down key to have it continuously change). 

Once you get to the proper offset, push the FUN key again.

5) Press the FUN key on the Radio and go to Function 01:T-CDC and use the Up and Down keys to find the proper transmit PL Tone.  

Use the same method to optionally set the proper receive PL Tone, if necessary, on Function 02:R-CDC (or Function 03: RT-CDC if both tones are the same)

I don't know if this changed in later versions (I bought mine this year, so it's bee a few years now), or maybe it's something specific on the Radioddity DB20-G I have (tho these are supposedly fairly identical) but there's a step missing here you may want to consider updating for other johnny come lately noobs like me, since the "manual" gives F-all direction on how you should expect to do this.

If you are programming in a channel in VFO mode on the radio, once you get to this step, using the Up and Down buttons won't do *anything* until you press the MON button. And thanks to the legend on the FB Anytone 779UV group that got me pointed in the right direction.

The MON button will cycle through what type of tones you want (CTS / Custom CTS / DCS). And then once you're in the list you want to use, you can use the Up / Down buttons to cycle through the various tones / options (or presumably do a non-standard one if you need to, but I haven't played with that at all).

But if you try and do this without that step, you'll just keep getting the "F-U" tone

[WRYS709]

19 hours ago, Davichko5650 said:

Next step is to rig up the MXT275 at home so Wifeypoo(tm) can call me in the mobile, then we'll see what kinda Fars we get on Simplex and with the one repeater that doesn't run split tones

I don't have any direct experience with Midlands, but from what I read here on this forum, some models, especially the older ones, tend to be programmed (or even fixed in firmware) for Narrow Band FM.  Be sure to try to change it to Wide Band FM for better audio compatibility with your DB20-G and Repeaters.

[WRYS709]

4 hours ago, amaff said:

...but there's a step missing here you may want to consider updating for other johnny come lately noobs like me, since the "manual" gives F-all direction on how you should expect to do this...

I think you just did; nice work!

[amaff]

No worries, just sharing what was shared with me that worked.

But it'd be nice if it was in the original post instead of having the next person have to stumble across it buried in the thread

[WSCF389]

I’m running the ra25 GMRS radio in my shack right now and I’m impressed with it. You can’t change many settings unfortunately it’s all locked up but it’s a decent radio for the price point. 
I run the retevis vhf repeater for mobile use and their rt29. VHF commercial radios for the family when we go out and need comms