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Radioddity DB20-G


Question

Posted

I just recently received my FCC GMRS license.  I am new to GMRS and reviewed many radios, purchasing a Radioddity DB20-G mobile unit.  I am planning on installing the radio in my truck and was looking at the Midland Micro Mobile Ghost MXTA25 and mounting it to a ditch light bracket; however I currently am using a LT-UT72 19 Inch,VHF/UHF (144/430Mhz) Super Loading Coil antenna and I am not getting any reception.  Any idea on the best antenna to use?

 

I live on the Southern Tip of Illinois and see that there is a repeater about 50 miles away in Harrisburg, Illinois and a couple repeaters in Western Kentucky. How do I access these repeaters or are they too far away? 

 

Any advice for the GMRS beginner would be greatly appreciated.

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Posted

What version firmware do you have (power off, hold down V/M button, power on)? AND is yours the Part 95e version that is set to "US GMRS" in the MODE just above the Version number (or have you opened yours up to Transmit on Ham 2 meters and 70 cms and MURS)?

When you push A-FUN on your mic, does a "func" appear in the upper left hand corner, next to either A or B?

Are you on a Channel or VFO? Is it a frequency that is authorized for transmission?

 

Of course, the Power Setting is the H, M or L in the upper right hand corner just below the amount of volts being supplied to the radio.

Anytone Channel 8.jpg

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Posted

Firmware is 2.33 and I run mine in 2m/70cm mode (which I love). When I push the fun button (A on the mic) "func" does appear in the top left, but once I push the 0 (pow) button, the "func" just goes away. Also, I'm in channel mode, not VFO (I'll try it in VF0). The frequency is authorized, just a GMRS repeater. 

What firmware is yours on?

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Posted
14 minutes ago, donniefitz2 said:

Firmware is 2.33 and...

Hmmmmm: I wonder.  Mine is 2.26 on my Anytone AT-779UV and I have heard about Radioddity's with up to 2.30.

Since I don't feel like I am missing anything, I have not attempted to upgrade my firmware.

But if 2.33 allows you to still open the rig to transmitting on 2m/70cm, I can't imagine it would prevent you from changing the Power Setting by using the Mic buttons.

Do any of the other A-FUN "func" combinations work for you, such as:

A-FUN -- 9: change repeater split to +, - or none

A-FUN -- 6: Reverse the repeater input and output frequencies

A-FUN -- 1: Goes to Squelch menu so you can use Mic Up and Down keys to adjust the Squelch setting

Do you let go of the A-FUN button when you then push 0-POW? Yes, you must otherwise it would lock the settings until you long push A-FUN again.

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Posted

Hi. I'm a ham but started with the gmrs 

I bought the DB20. For base gmrs.

The programming sucks. I found if you open radio at start up, by holding v/m while turning on. You get different options. So if you chose opened 2m 440 everything is open. Then in the programming you have to change model of the DB20 the same.

This gives you power options and you can do more with the radio. But it is still limited 

No copy and paste and if so one line at a time.

I hope the guys on chirp make it available in the menu soon.

Regards Larry Mutz 

 

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Posted
On 1/27/2022 at 2:26 PM, donniefitz2 said:

After checking the firmware, it's working now. Not sure what that did but all of a sudden, it changes the power level. Sweet. Pushing buttons on this command is so exciting FUN -> POW!

I'm having the same issue on my new DB-20G with not being able to change the power setting from the mic.  I am on V2.34 and have mine set to GMRS.  Even after I checked the version, the power setting still does not work from the mic (trying to set Repeater 15 to Low).  Only way I can change it is via the CPS software.  I sent an email to Radioddity Tech support.  We'll see what they say.

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Posted

Received an email from Radioddity.  The Pow button on the Mic does not work on the DB20-G when it is in GMRS mode.  They said the only way to change the power setting is via the CPS software.  Not the answer I was hoping for but at least I know now that my radio is not malfunctioning.

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Posted

That means youll have to do the unlock on it. Press and hold the V/M button while turning it on. Then use the Up/ Down arrows to select the Frequency sets. Youll loose all you data, so save all that before. When you choose you new band set, be sure to select the same one in the programming software.

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Posted

I was just reading critical reviews of DB20-G on Amazon and one of the biggest issues seems to be durability.  It quits working properly after a while?  Is that really a big issue with these?  Other than that it seems like a better option that the others in the same price range.

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Posted
4 hours ago, UncleYoda said:

I was just reading critical reviews of DB20-G on Amazon and one of the biggest issues seems to be durability.  It quits working properly after a while?  Is that really a big issue with these?  Other than that it seems like a better option that the others in the same price range.

What consitutes "a while"?  I had to check my Amazon orders for dates on my two anytones... one was late February 2022, the other was mid March 2022. The February one has been in the old car unlocked for ham use the whole time, and seems to be going strong...it's on almost every time I drive the car , and often rag chew on mid power for the 30 mins drive to and from work. The one in the truck replaced a mxt115 and gets less use, but the occasional use it gets is usually on high power (nearest active repeaters are ~60 miles out)...going strong there as well.

That said, it's not out of the realm of possibility that I got lucky, and later examples went downhill, or just some bad quality control let some with issues slip through. QC is one corner that often gets cut to meet a low price point. I'd also wonder about the usage on the ones that died...I'm not the most long winded on air ?‍♂️

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Posted

I haven’t seen any reports here of the Db20g failing.  I have two of them.  One I opened up and connected to a Comet dual band SB5 antenna.  I use it for 2 meter and 70 cm in my 4Runner.  The other is factory configured for GMRS and is connected to a Midland MXTA26 GMRS antenna in my pickup. Neither have acted up.  For the price they seem very capable little radios.

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Posted

Contrary to what a number of YT'ers have reported, the power output from my AT-779UV was at or slightly above the rated power.
I've had it since last June ('22) and it runs most every night as I drive out town after supper.  I like the little bugger!

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Posted
2 hours ago, fe2o3 said:

Contrary to what a number of YT'ers have reported, the power output from my AT-779UV was at or slightly above the rated power.
I've had it since last June ('22) and it runs most every night as I drive out town after supper.  I like the little bugger!

I just tested the power output on 146.940 MHz of my dB20g and the radio, which is rated for 20 watts on GMRS, put out a solid 30 watts. I had to double check it, but that’s what it said. I wish now that I had another wattmeter for VHF to compare. 

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Posted
22 hours ago, Sshannon said:

I just tested the power output on 146.940 MHz of my dB20g and the radio, which is rated for 20 watts on GMRS, put out a solid 30 watts. I had to double check it, but that’s what it said. I wish now that I had another wattmeter for VHF to compare. 

When I did the testing I was getting around 12-13W on 467MHz (less than the MXT-115), about a watt higher on 462MHz, but 22W on 2m. I suspect it fits a linear plot.

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Posted
28 minutes ago, KAF6045 said:

When I did the testing I was getting around 12-13W on 467MHz (less than the MXT-115), about a watt higher on 462MHz, but 22W on 2m. I suspect it fits a linear plot.

I'll recheck the same radio on GMRS but with a different antenna to see how it does.  I'll also check my other DB20G radio to see how much they differ. That'll have to wait for a dry day though. ?

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Posted
22 hours ago, Sshannon said:

I'll recheck the same radio on GMRS but with a different antenna to see how it does.  I'll also check my other DB20G radio to see how much they differ. That'll have to wait for a dry day though. ?

I'll try to remember to get some numbers from mine too...add that to my mental to-do list. Also have another antenna en-route to check out...giving one of the "phantom" antennas a try.

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Posted
7 hours ago, wayoverthere said:

I'll try to remember to get some numbers from mine too...add that to my mental to-do list. Also have another antenna en-route to check out...giving one of the "phantom" antennas a try.

had some time to kill, so i went hunting for my dummy load (shack is mid-rearrange), and did some testing. AFAIK, the one in the car is the older one, but I'm not 100% sure on that. both were tested with the same pigtail between radio and meter, same Surecom SW102, and same 50ohm 60 watt rated dummy load, pretty much back to back with the dummy load not even getting perceptibly warm.

Truck / Car

  • 467.675 - 15.9w / 14.1w
  • 467.725 - 16.0w / 14.2w
  • 446.000 - 16.8w / 14.6w
  • 146.520 - 19.1w / 17.7w
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Posted
2 hours ago, wayoverthere said:

had some time to kill, so i went hunting for my dummy load (shack is mid-rearrange), and did some testing. AFAIK, the one in the car is the older one, but I'm not 100% sure on that. both were tested with the same pigtail between radio and meter, same Surecom SW102, and same 50ohm 60 watt rated dummy load, pretty much back to back with the dummy load not even getting perceptibly warm.

Truck / Car

  • 467.675 - 15.9w / 14.1w
  • 467.725 - 16.0w / 14.2w
  • 446.000 - 16.8w / 14.6w
  • 146.520 - 19.1w / 17.7w

I did the same a few hours ago, and need to get my data into a spreadsheet.  But I used a dedicated Astron RS-50M power supply, so I would have a constant 13.8v.  No jumper cables, direct PL259 barrel connector to the SW102, and my 50Ω 100w dummy load attached directly to the meter.

I tested all three power levels, all with a keying of 3-5 seconds so power output stabilized, and about 15 seconds between frequency changes to let the rig cool down.  Initial keying did have higher numbers, but in the real world I don't see many people having one second conversations.

Low / Medium / High (rounded to a 1/10th)
GMRS Simplex (averaged from 462.550 to 462.725 MHz) - 4.5w / 8.1w / 15.4w
GMRS Repeater (averaged from 467.550 to 467.725 MHz) - 4.2w / 7.5w / 15.1w

2m (averaged from 144.000 - 148.000 MHz) - 5.5w / 11.1w / 24.2w
70cm (averaged from 430.000 - 448.000 MHz)- 4.8w / 9.5w / *19.1w
     * High power started at 20.9w @ 430 MHz, and had dropped to 17.4w @ 448 MHz

2m National Simplex Calling (146.520 MHz) - 5.7w / 11.3w / 24.3w
70cm National Simplex Calling (446.000 MHz) - 4.4w / 8.8w / 17.8w

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Posted (edited)

Since there doesn't appear to be a way to recreate a table within a post, I'll use a PNG instead.

Tested the transceiver with a Surecom SW102, into a 50Ω 100w dummy load.  All connections were direct, as in using a PL-259 barrel connector between rig and meter, and dummy load attached directly to the meter.

Power supplied by an Astron RS-50M for a constant 13.8v.  Power output averaged over 3-4 seconds of keying.  About 15 seconds between frequency changes to allow rig to cool.

image.png.0ca3512a39a0de1e2d30cf9733051aa9.png

Edited by SpeedSpeak2Me
Added testing conditions.
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Posted
On 5/7/2023 at 2:51 PM, Sshannon said:

I'll recheck the same radio on GMRS but with a different antenna to see how it does.  I'll also check my other DB20G radio to see how much they differ. That'll have to wait for a dry day though. ?

I was going into a dummy load.

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