AT779UV Programming help?

[WRUE962]

I have been trying to program an Anytone AT779UV for what seems like countless hours.

I have downloaded the drivers, program software and firmware updates, but can't get my windows 11 to communicate with this radio, because COM port won't open.

I have tried everything I know to do but am getting nowhere with this and I'm about ready to throw the radio in the trash where it probably belongs!

[BoxCar]

What programming cable? There are lots using a counterfeit chip. It's best to use the Anytone cable.

[SteveShannon]

1 hour ago, WRUE962 said:

I have been trying to program an Anytone AT779UV for what seems like countless hours.

I have downloaded the drivers, program software and firmware updates, but can't get my windows 11 to communicate with this radio, because COM port won't open.

I have tried everything I know to do but am getting nowhere with this and I'm about ready to throw the radio in the trash where it probably belongs!

I’m sorry you’re having trouble.  I have nearly the same radio except branded Radioddity, the DB20G.

In Microsoft’s infinite wisdom, they changed the model they used for drivers in Windows 11.  That broke some software and definitely caused problems with some cables.  I’ve also heard (as @BoxCar mentioned) that there has been an effort to crack down on counterfeit chip producers.  Some new drivers have gotten better at detecting and then rejecting counterfeit chips.  If Anytone provided you with a cable built around a counterfeit chip they should replace the cable.  But I doubt that’s what happened.  Anytone has a better reputation than that. Here’s Anytone’s page discussing counterfeit USB cables and explaining how you can tell the difference. https://anytonetech.com/anytone-usb-cable

Because the correct cable is included with the radio, it’s doubtful that you are using the wrong cable.  Let’s concentrate on connecting the cable to the computer first because once you have the cable working everything else is just the usual annoyance of learning software with bad English prompts.  We’ll do that without having the cable plugged into the radio.  We just want to get the cable working.

First, before plugging the cable into your computer make sure you load the correct driver.  Also, make sure you’re running as the administrator of the computer.  Unfortunately for you I am still using Windows 10, so my experience might not be identical to yours.  I’ll go look to see if there’s a different driver for Win 11 and I’ll edit this post with whatever I learn. I didn’t find a specific W11 driver.  The instructions don’t specifically mention loading a driver.  

When you plug the cables into your computer, does it make the two tone sound that Windows has recognized the cable?  No radio should be connected yet; we just want to get the cable going?  I recommend having Device Manager up so you can see any changes when you plug in the cable.

 

p.s.  I haven’t found much on the drivers yet, but I found this page explaining how to make your own cable.  I’m including it because it’s interesting: https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_ProgrCableAT779.php

[WRXB215]

I agree with @Sshannon. Lots of people have reported problems trying to connect to their radios with Windows 11.

[WRUE951]

i've had issues with the Windows 11 drivers not only with programing cables but also my repeater controller..  Some cable manufactures have specific drivers only for Windows 11 such as Hytera..  Luckily i've kept a Windows 10 Laptop i can resort to when needed.   I've also heard of people installing drivers on Windows 11 under  Windows 10 compatibility mode but i've never figured that out, but i guess it's possible.   

[SteveShannon]

This from the Microsoft help site might help:

Hello, thank you for your reply! 

To add a COM Port, you can launch Device Manager, highlight your Computer Name at the top of the list, select Action menu and Add legacy hardware. 

Follow the wizard to Install the hardware that I manually select from a list, choose Ports (COM & LPT), Standard and Communications Port. However, I would suspect this will not work with your device. 

Would you also provide the model of your Yaesu Ham Radio and the internal adapter you have mentioned if the above did not resolve your issue? 

Please let me know if I can help further!

 

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/no-com-ports-in-windows-11/dd854eca-2b42-4c82-a785-86943163e703

[WRUE962]

2 hours ago, BoxCar said:

What programming cable? There are lots using a counterfeit chip. It's best to use the Anytone cable.

I am using the cable that was provided with the radio.

[WRUE962]

1 hour ago, Sshannon said:

I’m sorry you’re having trouble.  I have nearly the same radio except branded Radioddity, the DB20G.

In Microsoft’s infinite wisdom, they changed the model they used for drivers in Windows 11.  That broke some software and definitely caused problems with some cables.  I’ve also heard (as @BoxCar mentioned) that there has been an effort to crack down on counterfeit chip producers.  Some new drivers have gotten better at detecting and then rejecting counterfeit chips.  If Anytone provided you with a cable built around a counterfeit chip they should replace the cable.  But I doubt that’s what happened.  Anytone has a better reputation than that. Here’s Anytone’s page discussing counterfeit USB cables and explaining how you can tell the difference. https://anytonetech.com/anytone-usb-cable

Because the correct cable is included with the radio, it’s doubtful that you are using the wrong cable.  Let’s concentrate on connecting the cable to the computer first because once you have the cable working everything else is just the usual annoyance of learning software with bad English prompts.  We’ll do that without having the cable plugged into the radio.  We just want to get the cable working.

First, before plugging the cable into your computer make sure you load the correct driver.  Also, make sure you’re running as the administrator of the computer.  Unfortunately for you I am still using Windows 10, so my experience might not be identical to yours.  I’ll go look to see if there’s a different driver for Win 11 and I’ll edit this post with whatever I learn. I didn’t find a specific W11 driver.  The instructions don’t specifically mention loading a driver.  

When you plug the cables into your computer, does it make the two tone sound that Windows has recognized the cable?  No radio should be connected yet; we just want to get the cable going?  I recommend having Device Manager up so you can see any changes when you plug in the cable.

 

p.s.  I haven’t found much on the drivers yet, but I found this page explaining how to make your own cable.  I’m including it because it’s interesting: https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_ProgrCableAT779.php

My PC is making the tone and recognizing the cable as shown in device manager.

53 minutes ago, Sshannon said:

This from the Microsoft help site might help:

Hello, thank you for your reply! 

To add a COM Port, you can launch Device Manager, highlight your Computer Name at the top of the list, select Action menu and Add legacy hardware. 

Follow the wizard to Install the hardware that I manually select from a list, choose Ports (COM & LPT), Standard and Communications Port. However, I would suspect this will not work with your device. 

Would you also provide the model of your Yaesu Ham Radio and the internal adapter you have mentioned if the above did not resolve your issue? 

Please let me know if I can help further!

 

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/no-com-ports-in-windows-11/dd854eca-2b42-4c82-a785-86943163e703

This...may very well be worth a try. But I'll have to look into it later today.

I will check back later for any other new suggestions, this has been a most frustrating experience!

My UV5R radios are easy compared to this thing.

[SteveShannon]

2 minutes ago, WRUE962 said:

My PC is making the tone and recognizing the cable as shown in device manager.

This...may very well be worth a try. But I'll have to look into it later today.

I will check back later for any other new suggestions, this has been a most frustrating experience!

My UV5R radios are easy compared to this thing.

If your computer makes the correct tone (device recognized) then you should see the com ports appear when you expand the com port section.  The fact that your computer works with your UV5R strongly suggests the driver works (it should be exactly the same driver because it’s the same USB to UART chip).

Please take a screen shot of Device Manager with the Com Ports expanded while the cable is plugged in when you can.

Worst case you can send the radio to me and I’ll program it and send it back (you would only pay shipping).

[WRUE951]

I dont know if you checked this faucet but worth a try..  When you launch your software you need to choose your Comm Port within the programing software.. If you dont choose correct com port it won't communicate with radio,..  Look for com port selection in your programing software and try each one and hopefully one will work..  

[WRUE962]

16 minutes ago, Sshannon said:

If your computer makes the correct tone (device recognized) then you should see the com ports appear when you expand the com port section.  The fact that your computer works with your UV5R strongly suggests the driver works (it should be exactly the same driver because it’s the same USB to UART chip).

Please take a screen shot of Device Manager with the Com Ports expanded while the cable is plugged in when you can.

Worst case you can send the radio to me and I’ll program it and send it back (you would only pay shipping).

As you probably already know, the 779 uses a different plug (RJ-45) vs. (K2)

I'm leaning toward it being a driver issue in which case I'll probably have to do a legacy version somehow.

8 minutes ago, WRUE951 said:

I dont know if you checked this faucet but worth a try..  When you launch your software you need to choose your Comm Port within the programing software.. If you dont choose correct com port it won't communicate with radio,..  Look for com port selection in your programing software and try each one and hopefully one will work..  

Tried that already also.

[SteveShannon]

14 minutes ago, WRUE951 said:

I dont know if you checked this faucet but worth a try..  When you launch your software you need to choose your Comm Port within the programing software.. If you dont choose correct com port it won't communicate with radio,..  Look for com port selection in your programing software and try each one and hopefully one will work..  

I would have gotten there

 

1 minute ago, WRUE962 said:

As you probably already know, the 779 uses a different plug (RJ-45) vs. (K2)

It does, but that’s just the physical audio interface and should have nothing to do with the USB to UART chip. 
But, your screenshot definitely appears to indicate that the driver shown in Device Manager is incompatible. 
I’ll look at the Radioddity site to see if there’s a Win 11 driver there. 

[SteveShannon]

34 minutes ago, Sshannon said:

I would have gotten there

 

It does, but that’s just the physical audio interface and should have nothing to do with the USB to UART chip. 
But, your screenshot definitely appears to indicate that the driver shown in Device Manager is incompatible. 
I’ll look at the Radioddity site to see if there’s a Win 11 driver there. 

There’s no win 11 driver on the Radioddity site that I can see. 

[WRXB215]

1 hour ago, Sshannon said:

There’s no win 11 driver on the Radioddity site that I can see. 

Just more Uncle Bill/Micro$oft shenanigans.

"YOU WILL BE ASSIMILATED!"

[SteveShannon]

3 minutes ago, WRXB215 said:

Just more Uncle Bill/Micro$oft shenanigans.

"YOU WILL BE ASSIMILATED!"

Maybe, but I think that it's more benign than that.  It's completely up to interface chip makers to provide MS with the correct drivers for their devices.  Who better to write the drivers?

I plugged my cable (the factory cable for the Radioddity DB20G) into my Win 10 laptop and it came right up.  It uses a driver that's published with Windows, rather than requiring a custom one from the radio company.

Of course the fact that I'm on Win 10 could make this completely false also.

Here's the driver my computer loaded when I plugged in the cable:

 

Maybe @WRUE962 can tell Windows to use this driver instead.

[UncleYoda]

1 hour ago, Sshannon said:

Of course the fact that I'm on Win 10 could make this completely false also.

Here's the driver my computer loaded when I plugged in the cable:

I'm on Windows 10, an older version, and the Radioddity DB20-G cable is not recognized.  I've never seen that driver you show.  (And the cables I use with the UV-5R models do work, so pretty sure the chip is not the same.)  I suspect that Anytone is distributing these counterfeit chip cables because this problem has been reported for both models.

[SteveShannon]

10 minutes ago, UncleYoda said:

I'm on Windows 10, an older version, and the Radioddity DB20-G cable is not recognized.  I've never seen that driver you show.  (And the cables I use with the UV-5R models does work, so pretty sure the chip is not the same.)  I suspect that Anytone is distributing these counterfeit chip cables because this problem has been reported for both models.

So are you still unable to program your radio? I’d be happy to do any testing that might help. 

[UncleYoda]

yes - never found compatible cable, and no idea where to find that driver you mention (but I would not want to install a driver that messes up the prolific driver I use with the others)

[SteveShannon]

9 minutes ago, UncleYoda said:

yes - never found compatible cable, and no idea where to find that driver you mention (but I would not want to install a driver that messes up the prolific driver I use with the others)

The driver came with Windows 10. I have two of the cables if you want to borrow one to see if it works. 

[UncleYoda]

4 minutes ago, Sshannon said:

The driver came with Windows 10. I have two of the cables if you want to borrow one to see if it works. 

Windows 10 is not all the same.  Mine is from September 2017, the Home version.  All/most updates have been blocked.  No thanks on the loan of your cable.  I would only want to use the software if I have the ability to update channels when needed.

All this could be avoided if there was a way to identify both the chip and the available installed drivers BEFORE you buy something.  There is no logic to the process as it exists.

[WRXB215]

10 minutes ago, UncleYoda said:

There is no logic to the process as it exists.

Actually, I think there is logic to how they are doing it. Unfortunately, it's not the kind of logic that you and I approve of. 

[SteveShannon]

21 minutes ago, UncleYoda said:

No thanks on the loan of your cable.  I would only want to use the software if I have the ability to update channels when needed.

Okay, if you change your mind and want to try it with a cable that’s a known quantity, including knowing which driver works, let me know. Maybe it would help you troubleshoot your cable/software combination. 
Or if you want to send me your cable I can try it here and let you know which driver works on my laptop, an HP Pavilion 15. I would return it quickly. 

[SteveShannon]

During a slight insomniac moment I decided to look and see what I could learn about the ch340 chip, which is used in my cables which shipped along with the Radioddity DB20G radios when I bought them this year.  They’re used in a lot of Arduino circuits to provide the USB to serial interface. Here’s the manufacturer’s driver page.  Their driver is available for download and covers various versions of Windows, including W10 and W11:

https://www.wch-ic.com/search?q=CH340&t=downloads

[WRUE962]

1 hour ago, Sshannon said:

During a slight insomniac moment I decided to look and see what I could learn about the ch340 chip, which is used in my cables which shipped along with the Radioddity DB20G radios when I bought them this year.  They’re used in a lot of Arduino circuits to provide the USB to serial interface. Here’s the manufacturer’s driver page.  Their driver is available for download and covers various versions of Windows, including W10 and W11:

https://www.wch-ic.com/search?q=CH340&t=downloads

I'd assume the one at the top is the one I would need to DL?

[UncleYoda]

4 hours ago, Sshannon said:

During a slight insomniac moment I decided to look and see what I could learn about the ch340 chip, which is used in my cables which shipped along with the Radioddity DB20G radios when I bought them this year.  They’re used in a lot of Arduino circuits to provide the USB to serial interface. Here’s the manufacturer’s driver page.  Their driver is available for download and covers various versions of Windows, including W10 and W11:

https://www.wch-ic.com/search?q=CH340&t=downloads

Yea, I found the manufacturers site yesterday from the info in the image you posted of the driver properties.  But I didn't want to download from a Chinese site (they're known to be high risk for viruses).  Anyway, this morning I decided to go for it.  Driver installed OK.  I'll try it later when I find my cable.

@WRUE962 I downloaded the zip file instead of the exe but either would probably work.  There's a setup.exe you need to run after extracting the zip.

 

[SteveShannon]

I think you can do either the first or second. Personally, I would do the second, the zip file named ch341ser.zip.  It’s the one that’s WHQL certified by Microsoft.  The exe file above it almost certainly does the same thing but it appears to me that it’s created for manufacturers to distribute with their devices.

I would also create a “restore point” before installing the driver.  That allows you to easily get back to where you were before you installed it.