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All of the Part 95 certified Wouxun GMRS radios that I have messed with are locked down and can't be opened up for amateur bands. I haven't tried with the 805G. Now all of the Wouxun amateur band radios I have played with are easily unlocked.

OK, pretend I'm newish to this hobby and know next to nothing. I had to google MARS mod. So if that video is correct, you pop off those two transistors on the board and you can talk HAMS and GMRS?

Hello everyone from TX ... new to GMRS and got our license over the weekend. Looking forward to the next step beyond FRS. ~WSJY335

I change the radio transmit tones by: A+* to get into the Funnction Menu Using B/C to get to Menu 1 T-CTC UP/DN to choose a value D to save and exit menu I could make duplicates of each repeater pair, but that's not exactly what I'm trying to do. The scenario is I'm on vacation for a week, out of state, and I want to save that area's repeaters into say ch. 36 and 37. And to make it more complicated let's say they are on frequencies already saved in ch. 32 and 34 I think the simple answer is the change the tone on the default repeater channels and just live with it. Or be limited to channel 39.

Minor quibble: while to my knowledge the more recent wouxun stuff is locked down pretty solid, not so much for the 805g. That said, without a keypad, it isn't the easiest thing to use. My yaesu ft4x is also uncharacteristically easy to unlock/mod compared to most yaesu gear, requiring holding keys at startup similar to many inexpensive radios....I suspect the ft65 is similar as well. On the other hand, my btech GMRS 50x1 is locked down solid, and btech pretty much stonewalled me when I asked them about the possibility of unlocking it

I’ll give those a look I like that idea better than my plain pizza pan on the cab lol. John Deere green doesn’t upset me since it’s up on top I’ll never see it!

I like that solution a lot. That, and hood / fender mounts. Yeah yeah they're not "ideal" but they work fine for everything I use them for.

You will be better off tuning a non ground plane antenna with those third brake light mounts as you will only be getting a good ground plane in front of the antenna. My 2010 F150 is all steel but it is pretty thin. The mag mount will hold the Comet 2x4SR at highway speeds but even a small tree branch will knock it off. I will definitely look into adding reenforcement of some type when I finally decide to drill for a permanent NMO mount.

I’ve seen these discussed here on the forum, they are definitely pricey but it’s an option. Third Brake Light Antenna Mount - 2017-2025 Ford Super Duty

Yup, anything not getting out of the duplexer is heating the duplexer up. I suppose same with SWR, but not as dramatic. As for the tuning Marc had done for me the range didn't really increase that much but the clarity of the signal did. And the sensitivity of the repeater receiver vs being able to receive the transmitted signal on the HT was affected. The repeater could hear me but a lot of times I was just barely in range of the repeater. Whereas before I couldn't even trigger the repeater. I only moved up to a 100 watt duplexer because the transmitter pushes 71 watts at 13.8 volts and I have to reduce that to maintain below 50 watts after the duplexer. I've hear that a 50 watt duplexer does well up to about 35 watts in and after that doesn't. And I can say that a 50 watt duplexer doesn't do well with 65 watts in even though if you look at the specs it says 50-80 watts in.

I hadn’t considered that aspect. I absolutely agree with that and if @WSEL330 is experiencing any of those problems a replacement duplexer, correctly tuned to the right frequencies could certainly be worth the investment.

Unfortunately none of these are John Deere green: 17.5inchX11.5inch Large Stainless Steel Plate for Magnets, 3M Adhesive Back, Mounting Screws, Ideal for Magnetic Shelf, Spice Holders, Fridge Magnets. Mount Anywhere! (Silver, 1 PACK) https://a.co/d/7FDxliM

I've been working with @LeoG to optimize his repeater setup by testing and tuning his duplexer. We dramatically improved notching and the band-pass losses and SWR. Leo seems happy with the way things are working, but I'm not convinced there is a noticeable improvement in coverage. He has reported improvements in some places and reductions in others. I will say that improving tuning makes the radio happy. Less overheating, better duty cycle will translate to longevity for your repeater. Even if you don't get more usable range, it is still ideal to optimize tuning.

How about something like this Larson bracket?

Unless you like spending money with nothing of consequence to show for it, I wouldn’t. The difference in range between 24 and 48 watts will be nearly zero. Think of it this way: if your radio has a signal strength meter that displays the strength of your received signal, one S-unit is equivalent to 6 dB. In other words, to go from S8 to S9, you would have to quadruple your RF output power. Second, please tell us how and where you measured your output power and what kind of coax cable you have going to your antenna. Specifically, have you measured your RF output right where the coax connects to the antenna? A lot of times people unintentionally convert their radio’s output power to heat by using the wrong coax for UHF. So, how long is your coax and what type is it. Also, sometimes placing your antenna below the canopy will get you through vegetation better than raising it up into the thick part of the vegetation.

Nice! I travel to Texas quite a bit. Maybe we'll encounter one another on the road.

It's an interesting idea. I'd also like to know how it works in practice.

I don’t think Frank is running a Mac at all. He has only spoken about running Linux.

I was thinking that too.....I may update with the make and model when I get home.

Sounds like a crappy duplexer or it's not tuned correctly. That' about a 3dB loss when it should be on the order of 1.5dB or less, 1.2dB being typical of a normal mobile 6 cavity duplexer.

Or a glass-mount antenna.

If the tool box itself is aluminum, bolt on or 3M 5200 a round piece of ferrous steel on top of the tool box. 3M 5200 is permanent.

Have you tried using Editcp? Third party CPS software for the MD-380, 390, RT3S and a few others that claims to be able to upload/download and edit codeplugs to the radio via USB and runs under Linux native. https://www.farnsworth.org/dale/codeplug/editcp/

If through the roof NMO mounts are not desirable; I would do something like this.