All Activity

Gmrs 460mhz antennas don’t need to be grounded however most will be ground plane antennas. And in this case no good ground plane exists. A mag mount won’t work and it’s going to be hard to get access under the roof for an nmo mount. You’re gonna have to go with a no ground plane and an articulating lip mount. A Rear fender might be the best spot.

Oh please people, just relax! Let them give it to us and then we worry about what we do. I am sorry, may be I am the only one with the body of an adult (a sexy one, if you must know, ), but the wonder of a child. They haven’t given them to us and I am already thinking about all the possibilities. Like a child about to get a new toy. Even though, I am sure that the FCC in their infinite wisdom will ruin it but coming up with some crazy restrictive regulations. Our government doesn’t like it when we have too much fun and freedom. Oh well, sometime is better than nothing.

Yeah, we have had that happen around here a few times when a new machine was stood up. It sounds weird when its understandable.

I'd contact Maxon for guidance as the connection between the units may not be standard in their standalone units. "

You will still get some interference from the other repeater in overlap areas due to the phasing of the signals. Overall, it will work with the same frequency/tones.

You got it!

I'm looking for an antenna that is pretty much waterproof as it will be submerged at times. Possibly a Laird Phantom antenna will work? The surface area and curvature of the roof should give ample ground plane and have an optimal takeoff angle. It will need to withstand impacts from underwater obstacles. When on land, grounding shouldn't be an issue as there will be four grounding points, plus one auxiliary ground.

Part of the problem with aluminum wiring in homes was an issue with dissimilar metals and how they expand and contract at different temperatures. Special outlets were used with aluminum screws but if the wrong outlet was used which typicaly had brass srews or copper wires joined with the aluminum and a joint compound (antioxidant, aka Noalox) wasn't used then arcing and oxidation would occur and it's all down hill once the arcing starts. Later people started using stab style connections on new outlets and these are a recipe for disaster. Larger feeders isn't an issue when wire is prepared properly and isn't as prone to outside movement like an outlet in a home that gets plugged into and out of constantly or your DIY people installing things incorrectly. Back in the day electricians would put noalox into wire nuts and use this for splicing. Then some manufacture saw this and made wire nuts with the compound pre installed and got UL listing and a patent. Damn why didn't I do that moment . More info than anyone wanted I'm sure. Anyway it does not hurt to put a thin layer of Noalox when connecting aluminum to another metal. You don't need a lot.

I just got currious about anti-seize and pulled mine out of the cabinet to read. It's a copper base antisize recommend for electrical connections. I wonder if Comet recommends a copper base anti-seize to enhance the electrical connection with their antennas?

Yea, i have as well.. Water and moisture surelty contribute to the corrosion factor. About 10 years ago i restored a 1970 Yamaha 250 Enduro Motorcycle. It sat in my dads back yard for over 30 years. Many of the steel bolt used for the aluminum casing were seized with some destroying the threaded casing. The bolts that were steel to steel cam out with ease.

Once upon a time aluminum was used for house wiring but there were fires in some places. It’s a little trickier to work with aluminum because aluminum oxidizes very quickly and aluminum oxide is a pretty good insulator. We still use aluminum for utility conductors but with quite a bit of extra training to do it right when joining copper and aluminum. Gil @WRUU653 would be much more likely to understand the process than me. But that’s at DC and and 60 hz. RF travels through molecular thin oxide layers pretty well and I agree with you that stainless steel and aluminum don’t appear to bother Comet.

Wouxun in the title...seems to be a trigger for him, was guaranteed a negative response from him.

Depends on the coverage area of both repeaters. If they overlap, you will have interference when both are transmitting at the same time. Having different squelch tones is not the same thing as having different frequencies. My suggestion - Set the second repeater at a different frequency to avoid potential problems.

If the tones are the same, both repeaters would come up and 'repeat' your transmission at the same time. No loop could be created. If you set it to different tones, then the only issue to watch for is mistakenly causing interference. The users of each repeater would probably need to just transmitting a tone, but not using tone squelch. This way they can tell if the frequency is in use. Either that or they would need to 'monitor before transmit' if they have a monitor button on their radio.

So tone is TX. And tone Squelch is TX and RX?

Won't anyone listening on that frequency with no tone set, hear ?

Can two repeaters with same input and output frequencies but with different transmit and receive tones for each repeater work without creating a feedback loop or some other problem? Our situation is we have two repeaters, one is in operation now. It does not cover a critical location in a mountainous area. We have a second repeater set-up that is identical in frequency and tones. If the second repeater's tones were changed to be different from the first repeater could they operate in close proximity (10 miles) with out creating a problem? Anyone out there with similar experience?

Stop being such a looser. I doubt you even read it.

I have a Bridgecom GMRS repeater that uses the Maxon radios. The transmitting unit died. Can I just swap it with another Maxon unit or would I need special equipment to sync whatever? Bridgecom says they will not service their repeater if the transmitting Maxon unit is at fault.

The fan appears to be a rather standard-sized commodity PCM fan. You could probably replace or upgrade it with one from Amazon. With the TDR function on the 'C' key you can pretty quickly switch off the second band, but you're right, automatic muting as an option would be nice.

As I said, I've seen houses wired with aluminum wire and secured with steel screws without any significant corrosion. Granted, they aren't exposed to the weather, but they carry a lot of current. I'm not saying it doesn't happen and I'm not going to start randomly screwing dissimilar bits of metal together, but if Comet uses stainless steel radials screwed into an aluminum base, they must not be too concerned.

Cars and motorcycles do use dissimilar metals for fasteners and they also advise use of anti-seize. Also, dissimilar metals for fastening use does not promote the corrasion effect as much as it does when electrical current flows through the dissimilar metal.

I posted your quotes..

I've had this radio for about 2 years and it's a rock solid performer. Lots of compliments on how I sound from it. Functions very well, puts out full advertised wattage. Easily unlocked for full TX range to match the RX range (murs,marine vhf, gmrs,CB and more) on it using chirp. I've had zero issues with this radio and it gets used quite a bit. Yeah the 10m band is kinda useless without sideband unless your doing CB on it. Very nice radio and for what it does, it's pretty cheap compared to the mainstream HAM mobiles. My only complaint with it is the fan tends to make noise in cold weather. So you get in your truck and it's 10 degrees, the fan makes a bunch of racquet until the vehicle or radio warms up. The KG-1000G's do the same thing. The fan needs a redesign or different bearings or something. But it's never prevented it from working. The noise is short lived. That and I wish there was a setting like the 935H added over the UV8H to mute the secondary area while TX'ing on the main area.

Tsql is for a repeater that uses the same tones in and out