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We don't have roof rights to anything else. We had to pay a one-time charge for the run of the cables across the roof and the roof penetration, plus annual inspection and any necessary maintenance. It is also the highest elevation on the roof (unless we were to construct a tower, which a) isn't needed and b) would be prohibitively expensive). If this was for a GMRS project, then getting additional elevation would have been worthwhile. But for GPS we have a good view of the sky and the cellular extender antenna has line of sight to antennas of several carriers. The L-channel was already there and provided a convenient mounting point for the antenna brackets. The cellular antenna is actually between the two units, while the GPS antenna is attached to the piping side of the mini-split but is comes with an ultra-flex N pigtail which we then connect to the LMR600 and put thick heat shrink with adhesive on the inside over the connection (as we did with the connection on the bottom of the cellular antenna). The unit to the right is top-exhaust and apparently defunct, and our mini-split has the antennas mounted on the inlet side, not the exhaust side, of the coils so they're not getting baked.

Oh I can feel my blood sugar levels spike just looking at that photo. Why tease a diabetic like that. Outside of just stocking one type of connector and keeping the prices and inventory down, there is absolutely no reason to use PL-259/SO-239 connectors for any VHF/UHF radio when N Type connectors are better. Wile N Type connectors are definitely more weather resistant, I still wrap them just like I wrap PL-259 connectors out of habit.

It's always a trade off when determining what type of coax to use. For the average person setting up a base station where the coax run is 50 feet or less then LMR 400 and equivalent is fine. Just like every type of antenna is a compromise. Go with what works best for your situation and that also fits your budget. Not everyone can afford LMR 600 or 1/2" Heliax cable.

Nice job, but I'm not sure why you would mount the stuff to a mini-split. Not good in my opinion.

If you can get me a baker's dozen of these magnificent French Crullers you got a deal!!! There's absolutely no legitimate use for the SO-239 and PL-259.

It's a trade-off between cost, ease of installation, performance during operation, and a bit of everyone's different opinions thrown in. At work, I ran two 200-foot runs of Times Microwave LMR600 between the roof and our basement office. One was for a cellular repeater antenna (this pre-dated the pre-registration requirement, by the way) and the other was for a GPS antenna. I had to put a 10dB attenuator between the indoor lightning arrestor and the Wilson cellular amplifier or I'd overload its front end. The General Dynamics box the GPS antenna went into was perfectly happy with the GPS signal level. All the connectors were ordered from Pasternack, as were the LMR600 stripper and crimper. I have a leftover piece of LMR600 with an N connector on the end that I use as a walking stick. OTOH, my entire (large) collection of home-use connector adapters cost less than two of the Pasternack LMR600 connectors. It's a trade-off between price, performance, and personal opinion. My repeater is currently using some no-name super-flex 400 (they can't call it LMR because that's a trademark of Times Microwave) to its temporary antenna. If the Commscope / Andrew fiasco ever starts producing antennas again, my DB420-B will be connected to the entry point lightning arrestor using 7/8" heliax with N connectors. My grounding consists of eight 8' long copper-clad steel grounding rods, 16' apart, with one end tied to the electrical service ground. The whole run from service ground to the antenna lightning arrestor is one continuous piece of #4 stranded copper with green insulation jacket except where the jacket was shaved to connect to the grounding post clamps, electrical ground, and lightning arrestor ground terminal. Forgive the non-GMRS pictures, but they do show good (to me, at least) cable installation practices... You can't see the outdoor lightning arrestors as they're at the point where the cables are about to go through the roof penetration.

I'll vote for that, except for handhelds. My nomination for "worst connector ever" is the large NMO. There's insufficient thread engagement on both the inside and outside threads of the large ring, the flats for tightening the large ring are on the wrong side, I have no idea what they thought putting the waterproofing O-ring where it is would accomplish, its impossible to tell if everything has a good connection until you key up and check the SWR, etc. And I had to wait weeks for an NMO to N adapter because I refused to stack a NMO-to-SO-239-to-PL-259-to-N adapter string. I'm actually thinking of changing the VHF/UHF connectors on my DG-503 power / SWR meter from SO-239 to N just to get rid of the adapters. The HF side can stay as SO-239. I'm not sure I'm going to like what I see when I open the case, though. My SW-102 already has N connectors.

You will get a baker's dozen if you can get all the radio manufacturers to start using N Type connectors on all HVF/UHF/GMRS radios.

Definitely, only if they are chocolate chip. Do I get two cookies if I get Amphenol to stop making PL-259s?

Ok? Do you want a cookie?

Here's a great example of using the proper connector for the the task at hand. One that is waterproof and can withstand the demands of being used on a motorcycle in all weather conditions. As you can see in the pic, no further waterproofing is needed other than heatshrink with hotglue protecting the LMR240 entering the N connector. I know, I should have used 1/2" Heliax for this extremely long run to minimize cable loss, but the bending radius was too large to get in those tight spots. Anyway, This has been on this motorcycle for close to 10-years and no water has entered the coax. Damn, sometimes I do a job so good I scare myself.

I decided to convert my Motorola XPR5550e Dashmount radio to a Remote Mount in my 23 Wrangler IZARUBICON. It was a fun project in the early morning hours on a Hot Momma Day here in Arizona. I'm still waiting for my accessory connector so I can hook up my remote speaker.

Evry one i have actually has worked great, but i wouldn't 100% rely on it. I mainly use mine to monitor local PD/FD, NOAA and Ham channels. I guess the H3 is a great creeper radio. lol

The BTech uses DCS and my Tidradio uses CTCSS and DCS

The only thing those CPR's used for marketing was Amazon and the video guy

There were several names used by the real radio manufacturers for their CTCSS marketing names. PL for Motorola Private Line; CG for General Electric/ Ericsson/Tyco/Harris Channel Guard; QC for RCA Quiet Channel; CG for EF Johnson Call Guard; and QT for Kenwood Quiet Talk. For the DCS Digital Coded Squelch names used by real radio manufacturers, there are DPL for Motorola Digial Private Line; General Electric/ Ericsson/Tyco/Harris just went with DCS; RCA stayed with QC; EF Johnson also stayed with their old CG name;and Kenwood uses DQT Digital Quiet Talk. I don't believe that the CPRs (Cheap Pandaland Radio) manufacturers used any marketing names for CTCSS/DCS.

I don't know why it's so hard to teach people to do that. It drives me nuts. I tell them, "Push the button, THEN talk. Think of it like the second or so it takes your phone to dial a number. You're essentially doing the same thing." They smile and nod, then continue to start blowing from their pie-hole before they push the button.

That would be idea for my openspot 4 pro !

I saw a lot of discussion on challenges loading airband channels and I thought I'd mention that there's some pre-programmed related frequencies in CHIRP. Go to File > Open Stock Config > US Aviation Frequencies.csv. Not sure if that helps anyone but thought I'd mention. They also have GMRS/FRS, Marine, etc. under there.

I have a few small gripes with this radio but, for the money, I think the AR-5RM is simply awesome. Dislike the red font on menu settings - hard to see. No memory banks for 999 channels? Oh well. I have my ham and gmrs license and have friends using both. Being able to use either in the same radio is super key to me; I used to seek out older Baofengs for this reason. That capability alone (and being tri-band) has earned it a place in my emergency bag (GHB,BOB), as well as my "shack", for sure. Thrilled with it over all.

Just a suggestion, instead of wasting money and time buying substandard coax and finding out it's not making you happy, just buy some 1/2" Heliax and save money and time. UHF isn't forgiving when it comes to feedline.

Just a suggestion, instead of wasting money and time buying substandard coax and finding out it's not making you happy, just buy some 1/2" Heliax and save money and time. UHF isn't forgiving when it comes to feedline.

Two very important tips to always remember.

I'm glad to hear that you redid the connections and that improved things for you. While ABR makes excellent coax cables, their ABR240-UF is pretty much the same as RG-213. Line Loss per 100 Feet RG-213 - 5.28dB, 70% loss LMR240 (same as ABR240) - 5.40dB, 72% loss LMR400 - 2.87dB, 48% loss RG-58 - 9.16dB, 88% loss Again, The calculations were made using 50 watts in and an SWR of 1.5. I used the https://kv5r.com/ham-radio/coax-loss-calculator/ to get those numbers. Your numbers will be different depending on the actual gain of your antenna. Higher loss cable will actually show a lower SWR due to loss. Go with the best that you can afford along with the acceptable losses for your needs. I would go with the DX Engineering 400MAX or R&L Electronics Jetstream 400Flex before going with RG-213/ABR240/LMR240. ABR coax is good stuff and I use their cables for all of my portable/POTA setups. Check out the coax loss calculator I linked. It is very helpful.

Tell this to the other person: Press the button... THEN talk.... This fixes the problem 99.998% of the time.. The other 0.002% the problem is because the person did not listen to what you told them to do.