Leaderboard

Through October 31st, 2022: Announcing the QRZ New Ham Jumpstart Program

Start simple: If in simplex, someone transmits within a half mile of you with no squelch tones set in your radio, do you hear them? If in simplex, someone transmits using a squelch tone, and you have the same programmed into your receiver, do you hear them? If in duplex at a repeater output frequency, with no squelch tone set, do you ever hear anyone hitting the repeater? If in duplex at a repeater output frequency, with no squelch tone set, plug your receiver into a digital recorder (your phone, your computer, or a handheld digital recorder), or set a digital recorder next to its speaker. Use VOX mode. Take another radio 150 feet away and transmit to that repeater using the correct squelch tone to open the repeater. Does your receiver receive it? (do you hear a recording when you get back to listen to your recorder?) Now swap the radios and do the same. Did it still work? ...again, with the transmitting radio set with appropriate squelch tones to open the repeater. Now program squelch tones for the output frequency on the receiving radio and record. Again go 150 feet away with the transmitter. Do you record anything? Notice how at each step we're trying to add only one additional thing that could go wrong. By the time we arrive at the final test, we're fully configured for typical repeater use. If you find it fails at one of those stages, you at least have eliminated the other layers as an issue. It's unlikely though possible that your radio doesn't transmit at all, or doesn't receive at all. I once had a Motorola T355R that, for whatever reason, lost its ability to transmit. So while it's unlikely, it's possible.

Use the Power Pole connectors between the fuses and the power source. Power Poles use the same housing for inserts rated at 15, 30 and 45A. !5A terminals handle 14Ga wire, 30A for up to 12G and the 45A will take 10Ga and maybe even 8Ga. I only have 10Ga as my heaviest wire so I can't say for certain about the 8Ga.

Testing with PTT down, on high power, might be desirable -- it would show if the higher current drain pulls down the voltage. Suggest picking the emptiest channel in the 15-22 range (1-7 are limited to HT power levels). Better would be with a dummy load -- so you don't have to fully ID and declare "equipment testing". At least you aren't looking at a 100W HF/6/2/70 radio... THERE is a current hog. (Fortunately, that install didn't need extending the factory power cable -- under passenger seat to battery was in range).

Well fellas it’s been fun but guess I’m out of here thought this was the way to go to know when trouble was coming but wrong again at least I got me a fancy license and a couple of more pieces for my junk box. If your wondering how I made out with the scanner it’s along i81 north of Scranton pa somewhere I live a very hard life my patience are very thin that’s why I tried to buy things that were pre programmed and said take it out of the box and your good to go none of these worked like advertised. Guess the radios might work if I ever get anyone that wants to hunt with me. As far as a warning platform guess I’ll have to try that liberal Facebook crap

I always cut the T connector off and use power poles because that is my standardization. This allows me to move gear to any of my test benches or vehicles and have a standard connector, so it just plugs in. Also, as mentioned above, you can get them in specific amp rating for adding heavier wire. Also, unlike the T connector or weather packs, the power pole connectors are spring loaded, applying more force for less losses at the connector. They were designed to be crimped, but I both crimped and then solder.

That's a cool idea. As a new Ham most start off with an HT. The question is which one to buy. This program takes the risk out of spending you money on something you later don't like. This gives the new Ham a chance to get on the air quickly.

As @KAF6045 mentioned, you do need to do the test on both ends while transmitransmitting at the highest power possible. I missed that very important step.. So... what is it on the battery side when transmitting, and then what is it at the radio when transmitting? There should be 0.5vdc difference or less to be considered 'ok'.

I have the 935G and use it with a cup holder mount and external antenna in my wife's Honda. It works well. That looks like a good set up you have there.

Too bad that doesn't apply to FRS radios and their Roger beeps.

Generous offer ! I'm in Alabama... but if/when I get your way, I will look you up ! I tested at the battery and the radio end and it was the same, I might need to move my meter over a click or two to see if there is a .5v loss.... I was thinking I needed to measure when keying the mic ? Other than using the needle point prongs and poking a hole in the wire, I wasn't sure how to do it.. or if I needed to.

Where are you? Like, what state? I am in VA and have a ton of test equipment, if you're nearby. The best way to check for voltage drop is to measure the power at the source and then at the radio. It should not be more than 0.5v or the loss is considered excessive. The antenna and cables really require an analyzer.

There are lots of tables on the web that list the current carrying capacity of the different gauges of wire and others that cover the loss or resistance of wire by the foot. The tables from the NEC are primarily for household wiring and not for low voltage DC wiring.

According to the FCC Enforcement Database, since 2012, there are no ramifications. Unintended consequences include more "pure" spectrum-use since virtually every LMR radio is better designed and has far less spurious output than pretty-much any consumer GMRS radio on the market.

I know it is, but you gotta smoke with the pack you got. I'll be getting some better terminations soon(tm). The cable was found in a pile of junk out in the truck yard where I work.

It’s OK, I don’t have any friends to talk to either?

My radios display name and callsign per the way my radios are configured.