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Look, connecting your radio to any 12 volt source is unlikely to damage the radio, but connecting a 50 watt radio to a source that can is fused for 10 amps might fry the fuse. Not all 50 watt radios require more than 10 amps. Some are more efficient than others and get by with about 9 amps, others use as much as 11 amps. As far as that “jump pack” I don’t know anything about it.

They will learn the value of using radios after the tracking-data from their phones are used during their trails to prove they were at the scene of their crime.

That would be a full violation of the eff sea seas rules/regulations. I can't imagine those breaking the law would decide to use these frequencies illegally and for illicit purposes. They should have their licenses takes away. As soon as you here them ID themselves you should write it down and report them. /S

A friend of mine tried using his KG-1000G plugged into the lighter-hole in his car and the plug melted and caught on fire.. Not sure why a fuse didnt blow first... Melted plastic napalm got on his had and gave him a severe burn when he yanked-it out in a panic, but the radio was fine...

It is, or at least the backlight timer is! Menu setting 8 (labeled ABR - don't know why) is the Display Backlight Timer. If set to 0 backlight is off. Setting are 0-50 seconds, make sure this setting is not at 0.

Most 50 watt radios state a 10-15 amp draw on high power per manufacturer specifications. Even if the radio only draws 9 or 10 amps on high power, why take the chance with running it on a 10 amp circuit. One of two things can go wrong in that scenario. Either the fuses will blow all of the time or they might now blow in time to save the wires from melting. Why take the chance. Plus cigarette lighter/accessory ports are not the most reliable power source compared to using a more secure wire connection. I won't even run a 20 watt radio on a cigarette lighter/accessory port. I've had the radios temporarily loose power when I hit a bump while driving. Yes we have a lot of poorly paved roads and lots of gravel roads in my area.

How do they know the users were GMRS licensees or using GMRS radios? My money would be on FRS, and like @AdmiralCochrane, I'd be more surprised if they didn't use them. It's kind of an obvious tool for quick coordination. And, yes, I have no doubt law enforcement agencies are listening.

And D411N also means the same thing.

There is a miss conception when people say Lithium Batteries can completely die if allowed to completely discharge. Most Lithium batteries today have a protection circuit that wont let the battery completely discharge.. And most Lithium batteries have BMS System Circuit (Battery Management System) that manages an array of things, charging, bulk, discharging, temperature etc. BMS systems depend on a small amount of battery current to function, else they simply go to sleep and the battery will look dead until the BMS gets enough energy to function. New BMS systems do not allow the battery to completely discharge, it turns the battery off reserving the small amount of energy so the BMS can function. If the Lithium battery looses all voltage due to a completely discharged battery then it needs woken up. How do you do that? it depends on the battery as there are several methods,, a google search for your particular battery will find the answer,, but the most common way i.e. a Power Tool Battery, you take a good charged battery and apply its voltage for several seconds to the dead battery.. That should 'wake' up the BMS so that it can now operate and sense the real charger to talk with and do its work.. a lot of people have thrown away perfectly good power tool batteries because they simply didn't know who to wake them up

And that right there is the reason I will never suggest using a cigarette lighter/accessory port to power a 50 watt radio.

Personally I bought a Radioddity DB20G. It came with a cigarette lighter plug. I inserted Anderson PowerPoles into the power cord because I wanted them but in my pickup I simply use the cigarette lighter socket and plug. It’s a 20 watt radio but it does everything I need. It would make an ideal camp radio.

I just tested this to confirm, with the radio in GMRS mode, it doesn't matter what you do in Chirp to channels 8-14. I turned off TX disable. I changed power level, also tried changing the TX frequency to that of Chan 1 (462.5625). The radio refuses to TX on those channel numbers. It's locked in firmware and Chirp doesn't allow you to bypass it. ofc if you change the radio mode out of GMRS then you can do what you want.

Pretty much every single 50 watt GMRS or amateur radio is going to pull between 10 and 15 amps on transmit when set to high power. Read the specifications in the manual that came with your radio to be sure. I personally would not want to be pulling a 10 amp draw all of the time on a 10 amp fuse/circuit.

Off is not off with a cell phone. It's still pinging unless the battery is removed.

There are lots of power supply options today. Jump packs, as I mentioned, can do much more than jump start a car. I use small lithium units for things like my insulin refrigerator. Decades of using frozen media to keep it cool ended when we get usable/portable power supplies. For all the scare tactics about lithium, it's a heck of a lot less potentially dangerous than the tank of gas you drive around all day.

I didn't pick up anything on the repeaters that cover the downtown are and my own. If they are using simplex they'd have to be in a high rise to have line of site with me. So I didn't pick up anything with my radio set to scan. But, I am on the coast so it's a few miles away and if they were on the ground they are in urban canyons. About the only thing happening is some idiot transmitting rap music on 462.575. But we get idiots like that from time to time.

Lithium Ion batteries can be very volatile even with protection systems. Internal shorts can happen with minor damage to the battery and overheat them. Fun is. Glad you weren't hurt.

*Proving* it is an entirely different matter...

FYI, anyone following this: Walmart has a 2 ridiculously cheap power stations perfect for running a radio/charging your gear/lighting your campsite/etc... https://www.walmart.com/ip/EF-EcoFlow-Portable-Power-Station-RIVER-2-240-243wh-LiFePO4-Battery-1-Hour-Fast-Charging-600W-Output-Solar-Generator-Solar-Panel-Optional-Outdoor-Cam/5478283286?adsRedirect=true https://www.walmart.com/ip/Flashfish-Portable-Power-Station-Mini-Solar-Generator-98Wh-26400mAh-Lithium-Battery-120W-110V-AC-Outlets-LED-Light-Backup-Battery-Camping-Outdoor/371451213?classType=REGULAR Note: the $149 one is marked in watt-hours, and the $69 one is in amp-hours. LifePo cells are about 3.7 volts, so multiply the Amp-hours by 3.7 for a rough(very) comparison. Whether the numbers listed are true? Well, Walmart's better than Temu, but marketing departments are ubiquitous...

Thank you so very, very much. I deeply appreciate this.

I have the DB25-G (25 watts). When I plug the cigarette lighter into this the control tells me it is drawing ~35 watts. This cable can connect to a solar panel, so I have a full off-grid set up without fear of burning down the house. Dialing back from 50 watts makes things much simpler.

I have Dewalt jump packs in each of my vehicles. These are models with lights, air pump, etc. I already have an adapter made up to power my electric jack. Using the adapter it works well to power my radio. Now this isn't really the most convenient power source due to the weight. But jump packs do supply in an emergency.

DN411 means the same as DPL411.

The DB20-G and the DB25-G are two completely different radios.

I absolutely agree about double checking the legality. Internet has little to do with this though. The fcc simply included internet because it is an example of “any other network.” Originally the prohibition was against connecting to the phone network. “GMRS stations cannot be interconnected with the public switched telephone network or any other network for the purpose of carrying GMRS communications, but these networks can be used for remote control of repeater stations.”* *The above is the FCC’s interpretation, not the actual regulations @Blaise, arguing it’s a mesh, not a network, probably wouldn’t make a great first impression on the FCC. It’s funny though.

And that will make you his favorite fan.

If you use the libraries, you can get it to do a whole lot more, I'm told. I'm not afraid of a compiler! Every packet has a 237 byte payload, so you'd have to spend a lot of effort hacking the voice data into chunks, then reassembling them. It might work, it might not, but it sure would be fun trying! Also, GMRS data is likely only about 2 kbps, so there'd be plenty of room for at least that.

Well, as long as we keep in mind that Meshtastic is a mesh technology, not a network technology, I'm sure it will be fine...

Yes Midland mobile radios do have the capability of charging other devices such as phones and tablets through the USB C port built into the radio. I don't recall if all Midland mobile radios have this or if it is only certain models.

Other than the one negative person whom we all know which as @SteveShannon mentioned is not because of who they are but rather the stuff they say I don’t see down voting based on who someone is. Could it happen? Sure but someone would just up vote them back. It’s just a means to elevate the best technical answer. I do prefer reading things in chronological order though as it’s easier for context and it would be nice if you could make that a default setting.

The only person well enough known to be upvoted or downvoted just because of “who they are” is Randy, and for the most part I don’t think many (if any) people have downvoted him because of that. SoCalGMRS gets downvoted because of how he treats others, not because of who he is. If he stopped treating others that way the downvotes would quickly cease. It’s that simple.

And certainly not in social media, the bastion of genteel behavior, patience, and selflessness.

Just get a Cat 5 or Cat 6 extension cable: https://a.co/d/fJtoY4p

They are to a price point and are bringing in a lot of new interest because they are accessible. All good things

That’s really an expensive, inefficient, and possibly inadequate solution. First, it’s fuse limited to 10 amps DC at 12 volts, so it possibly won’t work for some 50 watt radios. Of course you could use it to power your radio by plugging a switch mode power supply into the AC outlet but then you’re accepting the inefficiency of the inverter to produce 120 volts AC and also the inefficiency of the switch mode power supply. So you lose several percent of the energy in the battery. Just get a decent LiFePo4 battery and put it in a plastic ammo box. Or buy a ready made one that isn’t designed around a 10 amp fuse.

No mobile radios will have a built in battery. Your best bet is a separate 12v LifePo 4 battery. You will need a way to charge the battery if used for extended periods. There are a lot of solar options.

I know/am familiar with a lot of the Jeep groups around here and sadly many of them are just very pretty mall-crawlers and grocery getters with fresh wax-jobs and tire-sidewalls still wet from all the ArmorAll, that only go "off road" on flat dirt roads one or two times a year. We dont associate with those kinds.

I picked up a Wouxun KG-UV980P, like new in box, on ebay, and thought I'd give some of my impressions now that I've used it a few days. The KG-UV980P is a quad band amateur radio, featuring 10m, 6m, 2m, and 70cm bands. It will also receive in the CB range, airband, and with proper CHIRP configuration, MURS, Marine VHF, and GMRS. The KG-UV980P is the amateur radio version of the well known (in these circles) KG-1000G GMRS radio. The KG-UV980P will transmit with 10w in the 10m and 6m bands. And it is advertised as 50w in the 2m band VHF band, and 40w in the 70cm UHF band. In testing with a dummy load, my unit comes in at a little over 10w in the 10m and 6m bands, about 46w in the 2m VHF band, and around 43-45w in the 70cm UHF band. So its marketing may be slightly overstating the VHF power, and understating the UHF power. However, it doesn't matter. For practical purposes, it's an ample mobile and base station radio in the UHF and 2m VHF bands. First obvious question: Will it work for me, a person reading posts on a GMRS website? And the answer is that through some simple configuration adjustments of the band ranges in CHIRP, yes, this will work for you. You might also ask if it will work for those people who prefer more of a Smokey and the Bandit radio band, the answer is sort of, with caveats. And some might ask if it will work for them on a band that has five VHF channels numbered 1-3,Green,Blue. The answer is somewhat, with a caveat. The caveats: On the smokey and the bandit band the radio can listen in AM mode, but I think only transmit in FM, and would need to set the power to L or M. But at "M" you're only putting out about 2.6w in the 11m band, whereas this band is FCC restricted to 4w maximum for AM and FM transmission, so you come up a little short. On the other hand, at "H" power, you're way over the limit, at 10w, so don't do that. In other words, if you're buying this for the Superbowl band, it's not ideal; only FM, and wrong power levels. As for the 5-channel VHF band starting with the letter M, there is no power setting that brings you down to compliance, as the lowest setting is a little over 5w in the 144+ VHF band, and the M band is limited to 2w. So if you're buying this for the M band you're making a mistake; it cannot meet the technical limitations required for that band. The final caveat is this radio is an amateur radio, not type approved for bands that require type approved equipment. If you have your amateur license, it's useful. If not, radios specific to your license make more sense. About our on-topic band: Low power will comply with the technical restrictions of channels 1-7 -- narrow band or wide. Medium and High power will comply with the technical restrictions of channels 15-22 and the repeater inputs -- narrow band or wide. The radio's lowest power setting in UHF is about 5w, and it's a mobile radio, so, like all mobile radios, it will not meet the restrictions for channels 8-14, which must transmit below a half watt. The radio: it's two in one. This radio has two radios inside. It has two volume knobs. Its display has a left side and a right side, each of which corresponds to one of the radios. It literally can play both sides at the same time. It can function as a full-duplex repeater, and as a full-duplex cross-band repeater. It can receive and transmit at the same time, in repeater mode. Some radios have a left and right side, but only one radio on the inside. Those radios achieve this trick by rapidly shifting the one internal radio to listen on the channel set on the left, and then on the channel set on the right. This is how the RA87 works. This is how the UV-5G or UV-5G Plus work. But the Wouxun KG-UV980P doesn't need such a trick; it has two transceivers in it. This is a really nice feature for some people. The mic: It's well balanced, and weighted. My RA87 mic feels like it's mostly air -- like a hollow chocolate bunny. The KG-UV980P mic feels like a MaBell desk phone from the 80s. It feels nice. Its keypad works well, and has all the features you would want on it (better so than the faceplate even). There is a speaker in the mic handset, and there are two speakers on the base unit. There is a volume control on the mic, a monitor button, menu button, band selection, direct frequency input, and a lot more. It's a good mic, and from what people who have heard my voice over this radio say, it sounds awesome. The speakers: With a speaker in the mic, and two speakers on the base unit, it sounds good and offers nice options for listening. There are also two external speaker outputs. Remember, it has two radios in it. And this is why. I've used the radio indoors, and in my super quiet 2014 F150. In those environments, the speakers are plenty loud. I have not tried it out in my old Bronco with a 5.8L v8, 3" exhaust, every rattle known to man, and a thin shell of a roof. I suspect that just like my RA87, which is mounted in the Bronco, its speaker will be almost adequate unless I'm at highway speeds. However, the fact that it has a mic speaker may help in noisy environments. The faceplate: The radio's faceplate is removable, and can be mounted separately from the base unit. It comes with a short connector for mounting the face plate on the base unit, and it comes with a long connecting cord, as well as a dash mount to allow the faceplate to be located a few feet away from the base unit. CHIRP: This unit can be programmed with Wouxun's kooky Windows software, or it can be programmed very easily from CHIRP. You will need to purchase a data cable, as it doesn't come with one. The cable is not expensive. With CHIRP you can program its 999 channels, set the band limits, set many other options, and even allocate channels to ten different scan groups, of user-defined size. This allows you to set it to scan only 2m repeaters, or only GMRS, or whatever other scan groups you can imagine that fall within its band capabilities. On my Linux laptop, the cable required no additional drivers; just download and install CHIRP, which I already had, plug in the cable, download the code plug from the radio, modify it, and upload it back to the radio. Modes: The "left side" radio supports AM and FM. The "right side" is FM only. Despite supporting 10m, it doesn't have SSB. It also doesn't have any digital modes. Transmit bands: 10m(&11m), 6m, 2m(+...), 70cm(65cm). Receive bands: 11m, 10m, 6m, VHF from 144-179, UHF from 420-470, plus airband (123), and 33cm. Heat: I don't talk nearly as much as I type, so I haven't really gotten it hot. It has a fan, and the fan can be set to always on, on while keyed up, or on when it reaches a certain temperature or is keyed up. Heat dissipation doesn't seem to be a problem. I keyed it up for 90 seconds into a 50w dummy load at high power, and it got warm enough to feel the warmth, but not hot. Nevertheless, dash-mounting the radio and then rag chewing in southern Arizona may not be a great plan. If you're going to dash mount it, dash mount the faceplate, and put the base unit somewhere shady in the vehicle, with sufficient ventilation. Programming: The menu is not too difficult to understand, but it's sure easier using CHIRP to get the radio configured, and then to just rely on the menu system for a little tweaking here and there. That goes for programming channels, too. Just do it in CHIRP, upload, done. Overall quality impressions: The radio is hefty, solid, has nice sound, close-enough power, good venting, great features, and great mounting options. Antenna choices: The closest I have to an antenna that will cover this radio's capabilities is a Comet CA2X4SR-NMO. I don't have a General class license, so I don't spend time in the 10m band. And nobody uses 6m in my area, from what I can tell. The CA2X4SR-NMO covers the 2m, 70cm, and closely adjacent bands nicely, so that's what I use. Odds and ends: Independently configurable Tx and Rx tones, compander, over-temp detection, high/low power input detection, scan groups, CTCSS and DCS scanning/detection, and very important to some, a roger beep. Very important to others, the roger beep can be disabled. DTMF, call groups, lots of features you'll never use. Should you consider this radio? Well, it depends. It's not cheap, at about $380-$400. There are far cheaper ham radios out there, and far cheaper GMRS radios. You might even find less expensive quad-band radios. But the build quality and sound quality are pretty darn good. If you are only GMRS licensed, get the KG-1000G Plus. It's the same radio but type approved for, and configured for GMRS. You'll be very happy with that radio. If you're a CB person, no, get a proper CB because it will have the appropriate power levels available, and will be type approved. If you're a MURS person, no, get the KG-1000M radio (which is serious overkill -- so really get an inexpensive MURS radio). If you're an amateur who operates in the SSB portions of the 10m band, get a proper HF radio so you can also enjoy 12m, 15m, 17m, 20m, and 40m. But if you're like me -- rather addicted to nice equipment, enjoying both amateur and GMRS, needing flexible installation options, and appreciating the features this radio offers, it's a pretty decent choice.

Thanks for this! I am sure a lot of people considering one of these will find it helpful.