Jones

Almost any antenna is better than Midland's MicroMobile series of "included in the package" antennas, HOWEVER... there is no such thing as a one-size-fits-all antenna for UHF. What type of vehicle are you running it in? Where would you like to mount it? There are many questions that must be answered before we can recommend the correct antenna for your needs.

I love my Kenwood TK-8180 - Much better than my 880s or my 862s. I can't tell the difference between them on the air, they all have the classic "Kenwood sound" on the other end. I do like the fact that the 8180 has so much more flexibility in programming, a better alpha-numeric display, and LOTS more channels. I just ordered another 8180 from eBay for $70. They say it works, but as usual, we'll see. If it does, that's a great deal. The 8180 also seems to have a hotter receiver than my 880s, but not as hot as the receive on my old Midland LMR 70-1526Bs (That's Midland Part 90 professional, not MicroMobiles) Those old Hitachi-made Midlands were great in the day, but hard to program, hard to find, and impossible to get parts for these days.

My house was built in 1917. I have upgraded all of the outlets and added many more using modern wiring, but my lighting circuits are still knob and tube. There is nothing wrong with having a "hot" wire running a foot and a half away from the "Neutral" wire through ceramic insulators. That's not gonna short out. Just be sure the wire is copper, not aluminum. In my case, I have 2 separate lighting circuits of 12-AWG copper that were originally rated for 20 Amps each on the old fuse box. I run them on 15 amp breakers, because that's the smallest I can buy for my panel. Even with old-style incandescent bulbs, it would take thirty 60 Watt bulbs all on at once to pull 15 Amps. With today's LED lighting, I can turn on every light in the house, and still pull less than 2 Amps on each leg. Wow, I have now drifted this thread WAY off topic, but then again, that's what ham operators do on a good rag-chew session.

Calm down, have a beer. .....Yes, I'm OK now.

As a contract radio broadcast engineer, I am on the road a LOT in Nebraska and Kansas. I very rarely hear anything on GMRS other than my own family, but I did just a few weeks ago hear a couple of truckers on 462.675 (Channel 20) on hwy 81 north of Salina. I usually monitor either 462.675 (20) when I'm on the road, or 462.625 (18) when I'm around my hometown, since my family uses 625. Channel 20, with a CTCSS tone of 141.3 (Midland "privacy code" #22) is sort of the "official/not quite official/depends who you ask" traveler's channel for FRS/GMRS, so that is where like-minded people should hang out if they want to have a chance at talking to someone else on a road trip. So, one-way to Kansas?? Where in Kansas, and why?

OH NO!! Not an old Bulldog PushMatic! Those had to be the absolute WORST breakers of all time... right behind the Federal Pacific Stab-Loc. The last time I had to maintain one of those was at KHAS-TV back in 1999. The old section of the TV station, built in 1955, had pushmatic panels - BIG ones - with 48 single or 24 double breakers in each panel. Back then you could still get new breakers for them from Siemens. I think you can still get some today from ITE. The original Bulldog breakers were junk. Many times, when they overloaded, they wouldn't trip, just half-way disconnect, and arc, and smoke, and buzz real loud, destroying any sensitive electronics plugged into that circuit. Junk that panel and get a Square-D QO series load center. Even a less expensive Homeline series would be an improvement in safety over the old Bulldog boxes. Check your local code requirements - some areas require newer style (and drastically more expensive) "arc-fault" breakers when replacing and upgrading old panels. In some areas, it may even be illegal for you to do it yourself. If in doubt, have a pro install the new panel, then you can install your own new branch circuits from there.

Congratulations on getting your ticket OM. I'll be listening for you on the bands. I did a big jump like that as well, but back in the day... there used to be 5 levels of license. I passed my Novice exam plus 5 WPM Morse code test with my team of Elmers, then before I even got my call sign (you had to wait for the mail back then, 4-6 weeks) I went to one of those newly-formed VE testing sessions, and took all of the written tests. I passed the written elements for Technician, General, and Advanced class, but I missed the Extra written by 2 answers. I also failed the 13 WPM Morse Code test which was then required for General or Advanced class. All classes of ham license required Morse code then: 5 WPM for Novice and Technician, 13 WPM for General and Advanced, and 20 WPM for Extra. Since I had all the written elements passed, plus 5 WPM code, when I finally got my Novice license and call sign in the mail, I was automatically a Technician. 3 months later, after practicing Morse Code some more, and doing some additional studying of the parts of the Extra I had troubles with, I went to another VE testing session, and passed the Extra written element, and the 20 WPM code requirement, thus bouncing me from Technician to Extra. I should have gotten a ham license long before I did, but it was the code that held me back. I was already an ISCET certified "professional" electronics technician and radio broadcasting engineer before I got my first "amateur" ticket.

Yes, you will have a problem. You won't be able to hear the repeater if they are not returning the same tone. It won't work with your particular radio. The repeater WILL hear you, but you won't hear it. You might, if you have a "Monitor" key to open the squelch, use that on receive, but that will be a hassle.

This $100 is one of the best investments I have ever made. HIGHLY recommended. A GREAT starter kit, with everything you need.... and you can order replacement pins and parts as you use them up to refill this kit. I've owned mine for 3 years now. https://powerwerx.com/powerpolebag-tricrimp-powerpole-case-gear-bag

I like using Sewell Deadbolt brand banana plugs. https://sewelldirect.com/products/deadbolt-banana-plugs There is a :40 second installation video on this page. - Yes, they are that easy to install. They are made for speakers, yet are heavy enough for power supply work as well. You can get them at a reasonable price on Amazon, and they will work with 10-24 guage wire. They are a pressure-fit plug, and require no soldering. Fremont, in the photo you posted above of that Pyramid PS-21KX, those are screw-type binding posts, but you can also plug a banana plug into the front of these type of posts... as shown in wayoverthere's post. I personally, like many others, use whatever is easy to connect to the supply I am using, and make a short 6 or 8" jumper out to an Anderson Powerpole connector.

You need to set the RX frequency to the 462.xxx, and in your programming for that channel, you will need to set the OFFSET to 5,000 KHz, (5 MHz) then set the SHIFT to +. You should see in your display that the frequency will shift up +5MHz to the 467 frequency when you hit the transmit button, and go back to the 462 on receive.

I think you have got it. GMRS repeater inputs are always +5 MHz from the receive frequency, that is by law, so it never changes. The repeater input of a machine that you hear on 462.600 will ALWAYS be on 467.600 - exactly 5000 KHz, or 5 MHz higher. In other radio services, such as ham, there are some repeaters with - offsets, and others with + offsets, but in GMRS, it is always +.

Tone mode is to transmit a tone to the repeater, while leaving your receiver open to hear everything. TSQL mode is Tone Squelch. This option allows you to put in a transmit tone in the "Tone" column, and receive tone in the "TSQL" column. This allows your receiver to only hear this repeater, and not other chatter on the same frequency. DTCS is Digital Tone Coded Squelch - does the same thing, but slightly different mode of operation. CROSS allow you to program repeaters the use DTCS for access, and a separate tone for you to receive, or vice-versa. Don't forget on repeaters, you will need to set the offset to 5,000KHz and set the shift to + in order to access the system.

To make it real simple, and Midland friendly, Yes. You may talk between your FRS radios and your Micromobiles on channels 1-7, and 15-22. (NOTE: To make this even simpler, channels 8-14 are not even included on the Micromobiles - it skips over them.)

Wow... That is in NO WAY legal for use in the USA. The 463 (and 468) MHz band is reserved as National Interoperability frequencies for Medical Emergency communications - ambulance and hospital two-way radios. The 409-414 MHz band is for US Federal Law Enforcement, and "Federal Incident Management - Tactical Interop Communications" - whatever that is, I wouldn't want to mess with it. By the way, there are 20 channels in the 409 MHz band that are known as the "CB" band in China, and they are legal to use there.

BTech- Baofeng uses the same "2-pin" speaker-mic plug as most Kenwood handhelds. I have never used Otto mics, because I just hate speaker-mics in general, but Otto seems to specialize in them, so they should know which connector you need. I would guess that all of their mics would be available with different plugs for many models of radios.

You set it down under dat twee by da wabit hole.

If you are just talking to your family, then yes. That is right. Find a blank spot, and use it. All channels are shared, no one owns any channel, so feel free to use it as long as you aren't intentionally interfering with anyone else. If others are using the channel, then you should use tone squelch, or "Private Tone" on all of your radios so that you don't hear others. Note that Private Codes or tones have absolutely nothing to do with privacy, they simply prevent your radio from hearing any other radios that are not using the same code. Others not running code can still hear you anyway. Likewise, if you are not running code, and other people are, they won't hear you if you try to talk to them.

GMRS is not part of ARRL field day, and GMRS contacts do not count for any kind of score. ...however, nothing says you can't contact another ham friend via the GMRS link, and set up a ham contact, like: "Hey Jim, 10 Meters is open to your part of the country. Let's try hooking up on 28.450"

If all the parts come in, I'll be traveling across northern Kansas this weekend trying to get a 30,000 Watt signal, and two 100,000 Watt signals back on the air in the 3-Meter band. (a.k.a. FM Stereo) I might try some simplex on 146.520 in the 2 Meter band while I'm on the road, but unfortunately, I won't be able to play with amateur radio much during this year's field day, since I'll be busy with commercial radio.

Me calling my son: W Q Y M 5 4 1 unit 1 to unit 5, you around Michael? My son: This is unit 5, go ahead Pops... ...both sign off with call sign.

Midland GMRS radios are not programmable. They are fixed with GMRS channels, and that's it. Also, you can find MUCH better antennas than Midland's junk, and for a better price. That link is for Midland Biztalk series business-band part 90 radios.

It depends on how far you want to talk. If you only need a half-mile or so, then just stick that mag-mount on top of your refrigerator or washing machine lid. Yes, a flat plate of steel or sheet metal will work as a ground-plane on the GMRS band. I have had success using a 14" pizza pan. Just don't put a temp installation like this in expecting to talk 5 miles, because there is no way that will happen.

I don't think he is talking about the signal actually being repeated, I think he means the signal comes in on his radio on both channels - in which case his receiver is not alligned properly, or it is a CCR with a lot of unknown IF leakage.

Your chart looks correct to me, however keep in mind that the GRMS 50 Watt channels are rated at TPO, or Transmitter Power Output, and the 0.5 and 5 Watt channels are rated at ERP or Effective Radiated Power, which includes antenna system gain or loss in relation to a half-wave dipole. This is correctly worded in your chart, but to clarify: If you have a mobile radio that puts out 50 Watts on high power, and 3 Watts on low power, and you have an antenna with 6dBd of gain, then your 50 Watt TPO would be around 200 Watts ERP. This is still legal, as the channel is rated for TPO of 50 Watts or less. This same radio on low power of 3 Watts into that same 6dBd gain antenna would calculate to around 12 Watts ERP, so would in fact be NOT legal for use on the 5 Watt ERP rated channels. I know there are a lot of guys out there (myself included) running Kenwoods on "Low Power" at 5 Watts TPO on the interstitial channels, but this would only be legal with a quarter-wave antenna. Also note that a quarter-wave vertical ground-plane antenna IS in fact, a half-wave dipole. and thus has Zero dB of gain or loss compared to a dipole. Remember guys, don't use channels 1-7 with your high-gain antenna screwed onto the NMO mount, and don't use 8-14 at all with a mobile radio.