WRAK968

There are a lot of possible reasons for the errors. One: The 8180 scans single "Zones" Another words, if you have all simplex channels in one, repeaters in another zone, you would only be able to scan one or the other. Two: You may not have added the channels into "scan" In the channel edit screen confirm the channels you want to scan have the "Scan add" checkbox checked. Three: Off hook scan. Ensure "Off-hook scan" is checked in the Scan Information Window (Edit>Scan Info) Last, The radio may be in scan however your PL/DPL tones may not be set properly. The radio still checks for PL/DPL tones even in scanning. The same with "Opt Signal" if you have that set up. If none of the above is the problem, feel free to PM me and I'll send you my e-mail address so I can take a deeper look at the settings. I can tell you the 8180 will scan both repeater and simplex frequencies.

You should have RX CTCSS and TX CTCSS, you said your R-CTCS is set to 141.3 Check that the T-CTCS is 141.3 as well (This is the more important code as the repeater looks for this) As for SFT, check it is set for 1 which allows the radio to switch to the 467 frequency when you key up.

You want to go to "Advanced>Port Forwarding" You will have to chose the IP address the Pi is using, then select port 1 as 4569 using UDP, then port 2 using TCP on port xxx (Custom port number you want to set for the pi, this allows you and you alone to remote log in and edit files on the pi)

I always forget those stupid things since my place doesnt have them LOL. To add onto my post, if needed, you may need an extension rod for the drill bit.

Heres what I did, (Ill leave a shopping list below) I went to home depot and picked up a single gang old works box, a wire pass through cover, a jab saw (If you dont have one), exterior silicone (Not needed if your exiting through an eve) and a drill bit a little larger than the connectors on your coax (I would use a self driving auger bit, makes quick work of the project). After determining where I planned to mount the radios (Ham sorry lol) I used a magnet to find where the wall studs were. (The magnet is attracted to the metal screws used to hold up the drywall) Then I went into the attic to make sure I could access where I needed to drill a hole in the header. Once I had all that figured out I chose where I wanted to run the coax.(Be sure to avoid electrical and water lines.) Using a level to keep the box level, I marked out around the outside of the box. I then used a jab saw to cut out the hole. I then drilled a hole in the top of the old works box to accept the coax when ready. Don't install the box yet, its easier to run the coax down the wall first. I then returned to the attic and determined where I needed to drill to drop the coax down into the wall bay. I used the auger bit which took maybe 30-40 seconds to drill through 3" of wood. I then dropped the coax down into the wall bay. Returning to the install location, the hole for the box was big enough to stick my hand into and grab the coax, however the old hanger trick works fine as well. Pull out enough coax to reach the radio, + an extra foot or so. Route the coax through the top of the box, then push the box, top first into the hole. Tighten both screws to mount the box firmly to the wall, then route the coax through the wire passthrough and install the plate. Congrats, downstairs is done! Return to the attic and determine where you'll run the coax through to outside. If your near an eve, your better off passing it through there as its easier to waterproof. If you need to run through a wall, make sure there wont be any rain or high humidity for the next couple of days as to allow the silicone to cure. Route the coax up to the antennas mounting location, being sure to leave a few inches loose for expansion and contraction due to temperature fluctuation. If need be, use zip ties or plastic pipe clamps to secure the coax in place. Youll need: Old Works Box or bracket: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-Non-Metallic-Low-Voltage-Old-Work-Bracket-SC100RR/100160916 A pass through plate: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zenith-Brush-Pass-Through-Wall-Plate-White-VWPTBRW/310551912 To make the job easier: Jab Saw: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-6-25-in-Jab-Saw-with-Wood-Handle-15-206/100654908 Auger Bit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-4-in-x-6-in-Ship-Auger-Bit-48-13-0753/202256100

In theory it should work. The dish would simply act as one leg of the antenna much like the cookie sheet. However you may need to extend the feedline to get your mag mount up there which could reduce signal quality depending on how you do it. Personally, I use 5/8 over 5/8 antennas as they do not require much of a ground plane. By purchasing a base 5/8 over 5/8 antenna and a good feedline you could scrap the dish and just use the 1.5" pole to mount the antenna to. Either way, I believe you will see an increase in range. I liken it to running a portable from inside of a car vs using an external antenna. Either way you'll have improvement.

Well this has me a bit curious. Being the CW code is repeating, would it be possible to record the message for about 30 seconds or so and e-mail it to me? I can then try to decode the CW and see what exactly it says.

You would likely have to look into commercial UHF antennas, but I remember a local that had a 25' tall antenna mounted to his chimney for GMRS. He had some fair range off of it to but I cannot remember what brand it was or anything else about it.

One thing to know, you are required to use your FCC call sign when using GMRS systems. Also, equally important, to reach the net you must be linked into a repeater as the link system currently does not support simplex traffic. Just some things to remember Welcome to the world of GMRS

I normally use a Browning BR-450 which is a 5/8 over 5/8 5DB gain antenna, However I've heard that for mobile operations it may be better to use unity gain. The big thing is to stay away from "Phantom" or "Puck" antennas as they aren't too good for GMRS use. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Browning-BR-450-450MHz-470MHz-UHF-5dBd-Gain-Land-Mobile-NMO-Antenna/123809990994?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Ill send you a private message with some information on it.

you want to run Wide band for GMRS, narrow band for FRS. Setting this wrong could make your volume sound low so make sure that is set correctly first. If you still need to make adjustments I believe you'll need to do it in test mode and likely will need a way to read the signal coming out of the radio which means you may need to visit a shop.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/807760/Ericsson-Drc-200.html#manual Figure the manual may be useful for you one day I would start by checking the fuse (back of radio near AC powerline. 4A fast blow) then check the power supply voltage to radio (13.8VDC). Confirm the power supply is plugged in and sending power to the main board. Based on what you describe this should be the culprit however its always better to confirm the PS is the issue before spending money on a new one.

Im not too good with Chirp (I prefer to use factory software but thats just me) First, you are in simplex mode, that is to say, you are transmitting direct to the other radio without going through the repeater. I believe (And I would like another user to confirm this) you need to go into duplex mode with a +5 offset. I believe that would put you into the repeater. As for no voice, I'm at a loss, It seems everything had been programmed correctly for simplex operation. The only thing I can think of is simple errors such as the volume being set too low.

The issue you'll likely run into is that they are probably using whatever frequencies that come with the radios, or using random frequencies that they can program from the face. Thus they can have stored frequencies, but also tune into whatever frequency they wish when they need to talk. Likewise I'm sure they are using the scrambler function so police dont try to listen in.

Marc and Mike have answered your question however I'll expand on it. If you wish to disable Ignition sense, Open up the 89D software and read from the radio (you need to have the radio on for this) Click "Edit>Optional Features" A new window should open. At the bottom right there is a field labeled "Ignition sense" By unchecking the box you disable the ignition sense cable (Works by switch only.)

That is actually normal for Kenwood radios. The TK880 has 3 option kits for computer control, messaging, and vehicle interface depending on what the radios were used for. The wires simply connect to a series of pins on the board and can easily be removed with a pull (no soldering required) For GMRS function you can remove the wires to "clean things up"

The YYYYYYYY message is usually due to passport trunking firmware being installed in the radio. While the 49D will reload all of the kenwood software features it does not replace the firmware which causes confusion within the radios programming. The easy way of determining if passport is the culprit is to power up the radio and see if it says Ver. 1.5xxx. FPro comes with the 49D software though you do need to locate it in the program folder. As Mygmrs does not allow the upload/download of firmware or programing files, anyone who needs the newest firmware should PM me with the following info: E-mail address to send the firmware file to, Version number of the radio (Check the SN label. If you see Ver. 2.0 then its a version 2 radio, if not its version 1. This is important as Ver. 2 firmwae doesnt play nice with Ver. 1 radios and vice versa)

Some repeaters use Zello or Teamspeak, others require a username and password to log into. You would need access to a repeaters server to get a username and password.

Sounds like you have a duel watch feature on the radio you are using. You'll be able to hear both frequencies at once, but will only transmit on one of them. Some radios allow you to disable this via programing.

Most UHF radios can handle up to 2.0 SWR, (Actually most radios can handle up to 2.0 with no damage) 1.5 is great and 1.0-1.1 is near perfect. For GMRS tuning, if your only using the 462 frequencies you would tune it at 462.6250. If your tuning for repeater operations you should tune it for 465.125. (Use that frequency for where to cut the antenna then fine tune. with the SWR meter.) One thing to note as you tube is to check both 462 and 467 frequencies BEFORE making cuts/adjustments and if you have a reasonable reading on one and near perfect on the other you should stop.

You were likely listening to a linked repeater during the Sunday net. The net meets weekly and is nation wide. The net starts at 8PM EST with regional check ins starting shortly before. For more information, including net and check in times, and available repeaters, please visit https://mygmrs.com/nets

The type of power supply you use determines what connector you will need. There are screw terminals which you would use "Forks" with to connect a wire, then theres bolt and post styles for battery's, some power supply's use banana clips, and others use power poles. Some even use clips. Really its all up to how you want to hook things up. I typically use power poles, building small jumper wires to adapt direct to the power supply. This allows me to work on/switch out radios without having to pull out a screwdriver, but this is all up to preference. Some people do not like power pole connections.

A code plug is the programing file of the radio (When you read from the radio you are downloading the code plug.) While Steve is correct you should save a code plug, I've found thats only really a thing with Motorola, as the code plug saves a copy of the radios SN. If you try to load a code plug from another motorola radio it causes an error, thus if you mess up the code plug, you run the risk of bricking the radio (making it unusable.) Kenwood radios do not save or check the radios SN, instead confirming the model number for compatibility. Thus one file can be loaded to several radios. This is why I prefer Kenwood or Icom radios over motorola, that and the software and parts are cheaper.

I think before anyone will begin helping you with your radio setup, we would like to see you at least have a ham license so we know we are not aiding a boot legger (amateur term for an unlicensed operator), Getting your ham license is free and only requires you to pass a test with the FCC. This ensures you understand the basics about RF exposure and radio operations and safety.