OffRoaderX

"uplink" = TRANSMIT
any "D" tone = DCS/DTC/DPL
So just select DCS/DTC tone D423 from the Transmit Tone menu whilst on the correct repeater channel, save it, and you're done.  Should take no more than 15 seconds start to finish.  
PRO TIP!  -- The numbers of CTCSS and DCS tones do not overlap, so if you ever aren't sure, just scroll through both menu options until you see the number you are looking for - it will only be in EITHER DTC or CTC, never both.

"uplink" = TRANSMIT
any "D" tone = DCS/DTC/DPL
So just select DCS/DTC tone D423 from the Transmit Tone menu whilst on the correct repeater channel, save it, and you're done.  Should take no more than 15 seconds start to finish.  
PRO TIP!  -- The numbers of CTCSS and DCS tones do not overlap, so if you ever aren't sure, just scroll through both menu options until you see the number you are looking for - it will only be in EITHER DTC or CTC, never both.

LIES!! I know this for a fact because the guy that posted that spurious RF emissions from a UV-5R will totally black-out emergency services started his post by saying  "..I have been a licensed ham radio operator for 23 years"... and in his forum signature there was license number and a list of all 17 radios that he owns.. So, yah, he was totally legit.

I was going to say the exact same thing.
and just so everyone knows, the newer UV-5Rs do not suffer from the horrible deadly spurious emissions/"dirty transmitters" like the early models that you referenced.  

Incorrect.. If the (factory) box says "GMRS Compatible" as stated by the OP (and it was not written in crayon) then it is the GMRS version, which is FCC Part 95 approved for use on GMRS meaning they are perfectly legal and within FCC guidelines to transmit on GMRS with.

"uplink" = TRANSMIT
any "D" tone = DCS/DTC/DPL
So just select DCS/DTC tone D423 from the Transmit Tone menu whilst on the correct repeater channel, save it, and you're done.  Should take no more than 15 seconds start to finish.  
PRO TIP!  -- The numbers of CTCSS and DCS tones do not overlap, so if you ever aren't sure, just scroll through both menu options until you see the number you are looking for - it will only be in EITHER DTC or CTC, never both.

I was going to say the exact same thing.
and just so everyone knows, the newer UV-5Rs do not suffer from the horrible deadly spurious emissions/"dirty transmitters" like the early models that you referenced.  

Pretty much all XTL5000's are Analog and Digital (P25) capable (at the same time).  Although i'm sure there are some out there that do only one or the other, I have never seen one (and I/we have gone through buying & setting up dozens for our local GMRS gang). 

Incorrect.. If the (factory) box says "GMRS Compatible" as stated by the OP (and it was not written in crayon) then it is the GMRS version, which is FCC Part 95 approved for use on GMRS meaning they are perfectly legal and within FCC guidelines to transmit on GMRS with.

There are many companies & business-radio resellers that will do all the paperwork and footwork for you, for a modest fee. Last month I got my LMR/Business license and 7 frequencies from a place called Kemp Wireless in Eugene Oregon - everything included was less than $400 if i recall correctly.  Basically they asked me a bunch of questions over the phone, I gave them my FRN info (YOU have to create an FRN/account on the FCC website) and 15 days later I had my LMR/Business License and my frequencies .

"uplink" = TRANSMIT
any "D" tone = DCS/DTC/DPL
So just select DCS/DTC tone D423 from the Transmit Tone menu whilst on the correct repeater channel, save it, and you're done.  Should take no more than 15 seconds start to finish.  
PRO TIP!  -- The numbers of CTCSS and DCS tones do not overlap, so if you ever aren't sure, just scroll through both menu options until you see the number you are looking for - it will only be in EITHER DTC or CTC, never both.

"uplink" = TRANSMIT
any "D" tone = DCS/DTC/DPL
So just select DCS/DTC tone D423 from the Transmit Tone menu whilst on the correct repeater channel, save it, and you're done.  Should take no more than 15 seconds start to finish.  
PRO TIP!  -- The numbers of CTCSS and DCS tones do not overlap, so if you ever aren't sure, just scroll through both menu options until you see the number you are looking for - it will only be in EITHER DTC or CTC, never both.

There are many companies & business-radio resellers that will do all the paperwork and footwork for you, for a modest fee. Last month I got my LMR/Business license and 7 frequencies from a place called Kemp Wireless in Eugene Oregon - everything included was less than $400 if i recall correctly.  Basically they asked me a bunch of questions over the phone, I gave them my FRN info (YOU have to create an FRN/account on the FCC website) and 15 days later I had my LMR/Business License and my frequencies .

No, thats not why.  Missing the entire point and not "getting it", as you just demonstrated is why.

Yes for many people No for many people. The moral of the story is: Buy what best suits your wants, needs, and desires in a radio, and don't worry about what other people prefer.

No, thats not why.  Missing the entire point and not "getting it", as you just demonstrated is why.

Being a sad-H.A.M. is a mental/emotional-defect, not a test score/status. And while there is a very high correlation of sad-H.A.M.s having H.A.M. licenses, this does not prove causation.

Sorry to have to be the one to break this news to you but bragging about not being a ham BUT how easy it would be to pass the examS "if you wanted to" is a strong indicator of being a latent sad-H.A.M. .. Your other posts already proved you also fall into the "some people" category..
And as the inventor of the term Sad-H.A.M., my declaration is final and cannot be disputed or overturned.

Just based on this post alone, I can confidently proclaim that the Midland is not the right radio-choice for you.

Nobody can answer that with any accuracy more than "maybe".. The only way to know is to try it.
If you can't reach them, then next step before base setups would be by connecting both radios to mobile-antennas on a cookie-sheet and put them in a high-up window.. This will greatly extend the fars.

Nobody can answer that with any accuracy more than "maybe".. The only way to know is to try it.
If you can't reach them, then next step before base setups would be by connecting both radios to mobile-antennas on a cookie-sheet and put them in a high-up window.. This will greatly extend the fars.

Nobody can answer that with any accuracy more than "maybe".. The only way to know is to try it.
If you can't reach them, then next step before base setups would be by connecting both radios to mobile-antennas on a cookie-sheet and put them in a high-up window.. This will greatly extend the fars.

Nobody can answer that with any accuracy more than "maybe".. The only way to know is to try it.
If you can't reach them, then next step before base setups would be by connecting both radios to mobile-antennas on a cookie-sheet and put them in a high-up window.. This will greatly extend the fars.

Yes for many people No for many people. The moral of the story is: Buy what best suits your wants, needs, and desires in a radio, and don't worry about what other people prefer.

Unless you are trying to bounce your signal off the moon, just mount your antenna in the best spot you can, as high as you can get it, and it will work fine for for highway/trail comms.
My antenna is mounted above the rear tail-light/rear fender of my jeep, below the roofline, where many "experts" warned me it "will not work". and while it certainly does not work as well as it could, it works just fine. I can hit a repeater with it at 92 miles and regularly get 20+ miles on simplex and have never had issues on the trail where i could not hear someone that others could, or they could not hear me.
My two words of advice are:
1) ignore the 'experts'
B ) - dont over-think it.