wayoverthere

I think it's probable it's either the key lock enabled (try pressing and holding the front panel keys one at a time and see if that resolves it) or someone goofed the programming and disabled the front panel keys (I want to say it's just a drop down in one of the screens) If it comes to programming, Bluemax49ers cables have worked well for my vertex stuff, though he didn't have one available for my vx4200; you can get the software from him as well (All the vertex stuff I've seen was free).the cables are also pretty reasonably priced as well.

i will second hard wiring it. both my 50x1 (rated for 50 watts on high) and the vertex (45 watts on high, if i remember right) both draw between 10 and 11 amps transmitting on high power, according to the meter on the PSU.

Michael, One minor correction: while the prior models did not support split tones, Midland appears to have updated the current mxt115 and 275 with split tone capabilities (and a usb-c port). https://midlandusa.com/product/mxt115-micromobile-2-way-radio/ Edited to add: i'm tempted to grab one to have a free radio to throw in the better half's car. Talking her into a decent antenna is hard part so I might just go with the one it comes with to start with.

If you are using a RX code, the person you want to hear has to use the same TX code. I think the best analogy is to think of the RX tone as a gate, and the tx tone as the key. No tones is like leaving the gate wide open, anyone can come in. If you want to get in when the gate is locked (RX tone set), you have to bring the right key (tx tone). If you want to hear everything on the frequency when working simplex, you can just use no codes on either rx or tx. (The gate is open, so no key needed). Does that make it a little clearer?

Thanks for the tip on PCH..haven't picked up Ethernet cables in awhile, and more of the tabs have been breaking off (and I needed some longer ones anyway)..put an order in saturday, and they came in today....good prices too!

Congrats, Mac!

think they'd appreciate someone directly asking for towels? ?

i'm not sure what the setup is on the repeater sides, but there's a couple repeaters around 30 miles out from me, up on the hill NE of me at around 5000 ft; one GMRS, one UHF ham. 15 watts from the mxt115 into a browning double 5/8 wave gets into the GMRS one okay if i'm on the north end of town. on the other hand, 5 watts from a ham HT gets into the ham one pretty well from most areas of town. The GMRS one used to receive better, but had to move locations due to last years massive wildfires.

Here's one that looks pretty similar: https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=191_192_196_213&products_id=4476 Here's another style: https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=191_192_196_213&products_id=796 Both list a height of 6", but no gain.

Fair point. I seriously consider grabbing one of those simplex repeater boxes, mainly for experimentation.

I don't mess around off road too much anymore, but I've tagged trees a few times in parking lots and neighborhood with the browning 5/8 over 5/8 (around 30" tall) on a mag mount, and no issues. It does have a spring built in, and it's on a mag mount, which hasnt come off or moved. It is kind of an invitation to get hit sitting where it is, though (center of the roof). I do also keep a little 1/4 wave in the glove compartment for low clearance situations like parking lots...I know Laird and some others make small flexible quarter waves, some with springs.

Yeah, I think my use case makes it easier being linked repeaters...all my HTs are UHF only except the baofengs, so I listen and transmit to the base on the UHF side, and the base transmits out on vhf. Been testing with a baofeng, but once I have it all set, I'll program the channels into the one of better radios. On topic, it would seem like a lot of work to go through for the power a ht offers, except in a pinch.

I still have some setup to do with mine, but I'm working out something similar with my icom base. I can get good signal from the repeaters with the ht, but not get out strong enough to open them consistently Planning to set the codes on the base so I transmit ht to base and it retransmits crossband, (since both I generally use have vhf and uhf linked). However, through codes and/or squelch, I'll set it so the base isn't transmitting back to the ht, so I think I'm okay without autoid as the only transmits will be carrying mine going out carrying my call

I started with a pair of midland gxt1000's, then a kg805g (which is my go to for a GMRS HT, though I mostly use the mobiles). also have a couple of Vertex EVX-539 that cover GMRS (450-512), one that covers GMRS & 70cm, and a couple other models (all part 90 Vertex stuff) that are programmed with gmrs channels, though not my go-to for that.

haven't noticed it on GMRS, as the level of activity here is pretty low. I did notice it on 70cm last night, though...had a good signal, came up to intersection in the right lane and it was like a light switched off...gone. i chalked it up to a physical obstruction, since it was so sudden, and when i jumped over to another repeater (different site, part of a linked network, and there's a uhf and a vhf/uhf site in range), the signal was fine.

quirks of the different forum software i guess, and little variations between desktop and mobile versions. If I want to go back to something on the computer (to write a reply with a real keyboard), i'll switch up the filters from "unread" to "everything" and change the timeframe of posts i want to see to 2 days (which, as frequently as I'm here pretty much always finds what i want). One thing I just noticed is in the list of posts, the time of the last post in a thread is a link, which will take you to the last post in the thread. I do miss the 'mark as read' link for individual posts, and the ability to expand a thread in the search view; sometimes if there was just one new post, i would read it there, then use the "mark as read" link for that thread instead of going into the thread.

i've been using this as well; i don't know if it's something that carried over or what, but i found if i hit that, then hit the number of replies below a thread, it takes me to the latest unread post (or seems to...maybe it's taking me to the last post, since i'm generally here often enough for there to only be another post or two? ? )

Yep, my alinco takes the same one, and I've absolutely used others with it rather than move the one that's all set up.

Thanks for the clarification ?

Same story here...5/8 over 5/8 tram browning uhf on the truck, with a Midland 115 for gmrs, or I have a sma male to so239 pigtail to use with the handheld ham radios. Eventually I'll put an actual ham mobile in...have a dual band comet antenna to go up when it happens).

it's a holdover term from the old radio days...Variable Frequency Oscillator, if i remember right. what this means in reality is the ability to scan through the frequencies freely, rather than being tied to set channels. not familiar with that Anytone specifically, but unless it has the ability to use some form of removable disk/memory card/flash drive, nearly all mobile radios need to be powered up while connected to the computer for programming via the software. if you're working with a laptop you may be able to do it in vehicle, downloading the configuration from the radio to the computer, and then disconnect and work on it on the computer, and later power it up to load the new configuration from the computer to the radio. a 120v to 12v power supply is one way to accomplish this indoors if you aren't able to program in place with a laptop, though batteries can work as well. i've run my btech 50x1 off of two 6v lantern batteries in series for some limited testing, and have run a cb extensively off an old car battery connected to a trickle charger.

Paul, Glad the community could get you going in the new pursuit, and introduce you to an even wider community and hobby.

I'll have to give it another try...the g7's were my first forays into the world of commercial CPS, so lots of learning curve. I have some inconsistencies between the two that I want to iron out anyway, and maybe try to get the g6 more consistent in buttons and lighting. I have the startup messages programmed with call signs and range label (g6/g7). Also done a vx924, and now a p824, and each version has its quirks...I've fiddled with the button/switch settings a bit on the 924 a few times, if I'm honest.

First, for repeater use, you want the channels with the RP suffix, on those the offset should be preset. If the channel is just XX, you're on the simplex channel. You do have to enable them in the menu, then the channels will count up to 22, then 15rp through 22rp. Second, good catch WyoJoe....625 and .675 should be channels 18 and 20. Third, it sounds like you got the codes set successfully before, it sets the tone for both tx and RX (as you mentioned, no separate setting means no split tones.), And you get the game of cross referencing the tone to midland's corresponding code. If .625 and .675 are the frequencies in use, set the tones on channels 18rp and 20rp and check again.

I suspect mine are from that overlap period...the evx's all say designed in Japan, assembled in china, while the vx's (925 and p824) say made in Japan. The mobile, I can't get at the label but I think some of the paperwork with it referenced yaesu. On a side note, I realized today that the g7 evx's actually came with Motorola batteries, rather than vertex...little more capacity than the vertex one with the 3rd (2200maH vs 1800, if I remember right). Given they came with 2 chargers and a vertex speaker mic, not a bad deal.