SkylinesSuck
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Posts posted by SkylinesSuck
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Looks nice. What the solar panel power?
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I swapped sides on the CB and GMRS antennas today. Boom, no interference. I did notice though as soon as I provided power to the rear camera (which I had to disconnect during my rewiring) I got interference again even with the antenna on the other side, even when the backup camera wasn't "on." It has 2 12v inputs. One is the 12v trigger on the reverse wire, the other is switched 12v power to power it and so I can select the input and check on a trailer or whatever.
So for now, I put both power wires on the reverse switch so I only have to worry about interference in reverse which is a non-issue. I might try a different camera later to see if that makes a difference and then I can wire it up like before so I can check a trailer if needed. Not crucial though.
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PL Tones do not give you more channels they just cover up other users.
Exactly. I haven't heard much complaining about interference or crosstalk. Just not wanting to hear little kids and their call beeps. If it bugs you, use a tone and let them deal with your more powerful GMRS radio crapping all over their play time.
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I'm happy GMRS overlaps with FRS. It opens things up to a lot of people that would otherwise never consider it, myself included. If I want to sit by a radio and anxiously await for somebody to talk to using only correct phraseology and not hear any kids, I'll get in to ham.
I think some of you might be trying to think GMRS is something it isn't. It's test free, cheap, and overlaps with FRS for a reason.
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Yup, but for <$20, I'll experiment a little.
Also one thing I did this morning was hook up the little 5" mag antenna that came with my midland mxt275 and moved it around. When I located it on the front driver's side front fender as well as the mount for the CB antenna above the opposite corner tail light, no interference. So maybe I'll try moving the GMRS antenna as well.
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Just ordered this:
I'll mess around with it and see if it helps. I'm guessing since one end (the screen) will always be exposed though there is probably nothing that can be done. For less than $20 though, I'll try. Some of the reviews by people looking to make hats to block Bill Gates from controlling their minds were worth the price anyways!!
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He worked at several places in the states and around the world, but most of the time he was at Plum Brook research facility west of Cleveland. If you have ever seen the movie Armageddon, the scene where they are in a giant vacuum chamber and the female astronaut asks Bear what would happen if she kicked him in the balls, that's the world's largest vacuum chamber and it's located at Plum Brook. My kids have a tent on their bed made from cloth used in some sort of rocket humidity test that was inside that chamber.
- brasda91 and AdmiralCochrane
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So I got the ferrite beads and snapped a few on every single wire coming out of the back of that stereo. I even disconnected various different wires and bundles of wires to troubleshoot including the antenna and speaker wires. The only thing that has any effect is turning the unit off. I can turn the wifi and bluetooth off, but that has no effect. I don't think there is a way to turn anything else off.
So it looks at this point like maybe shielding the unit is the only possible option other than getting a new unit which isn't outside the realm of possibility, but not something I'm gonna do next week. Any thoughts on trying to shield it somehow? Considering it's a wireless Android auto unit (which is a feature I plan to keep) I'm thinking anything that would be effective would also probably kill my wifi connection for Android auto, but I'm willing to tinker.
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Hey Skyline, does the NASA sticker represent anything particular, or just a sticker?
My grandfather worked for NASA.
- Mikeam and Sean WRMH985
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Got a link to the tinySA? It just occurred to me I have the little baby mag antenna that came with my mxt275. Might that be helpful in sniffing it out?
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Just for my understanding of principals here, wouldn't disconnecting the antenna and not receiving any interference point towards the interference coming in through the antenna i.e. broadcast interference and tell me it's not something coming through the power cables? I mean, no amount of grounding the radio out ferrite beads on the radio power wires will help, right? It's all about either filtering what the antenna receives or stopping the broadcast interference at it's source, right?
The antenna wire is not run anywhere even close to the head unit btw.
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I just tried removing the factory fm stereo antenna. No effect.
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Well, the one easy thing I wanted to try didn't work. I just bypassed the lightning arrester and associated cable and ran the cable from the antenna directly into the meter then radio. Measured at 2.9 and while I'm curious why it dropped that much, it doesn't solve the issue. I guess the antenna and mast are coming down in the next couple of days for trouble shooting.
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Will do. Ferrites show up today so I'll mess with it tomorrow morning before work.
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Root is basically administrator privileges in Linux/Unix based systems. MacOS is built on that basic structure. So is Android. When a phone gets "rooted" you are basically unlocking those privileges.
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I will look in to it. It's not hooked up to anything though because not CAN bus, but I'll see if I can turn it off.
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Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX and I just swapped out my Midland MXTA26 5/8 wave for a Larsen NMO450CHW 1/2 wave. The FM antenna is at the front of the Jeep, GMRS is at the rear corner. Another thing I just tried was too see if I had any issues with me CB and I do not.
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And by remove the antenna I mean unscrewing the entire antenna off of it's nmo mount outside the vehicle.
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It is an aftermarket Pioneer wireless Android auto head unit.
Interesting twist I just noticed--if I remove the antenna, no more noise. Maybe it's not line noise then?
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If in fact the noise is coming from the car stereo it's likely radiating from the wires between the speaker output and the speakers. Many new car stereos use Class D power amplifiers. To make it simple its a switching type circuit operating at high frequency, HUGE noise generators if not filtered. If the filtering is insufficient on the amp's output you can try putting your clamp on ferrites on the speaker wires right at the point where they exit the amplifier. You might even have to shield those wires and ground the shield right at the stereo.
https://www.analogictips.com/class-d-amplifiers-for-high-efficiency-switched-mode-sound/
The communications between the head unit and the main body is also likely using a fast serial communication protocol. One common protocol used extensively in automotive settings is the CAN bus. Those signals may also be a source of noise radiation and might need those clamp on ferrites too.
No CAN bus for me. 1998 ftw
I will make sure to get chokes on the speaker wires. -
Make sure you have a ferrite or two on ALL wires connected to the car stereo.
Especially the radio antenna cable.
I'm sure it's not easy to access these things but you have to do all the wires or it won't help.
Vince
I didn't know that, thanks. Just ordered another assorted pack of 20. I only had them on the power wires before.
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Does the head unit have a USB charging point?
Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
Yes! Two auxiliary cable inputs. Didn't even think of that. Maybe unplug them or wrap them in foil? Is USB notorious for interference?
Jeeps & Radios
in General Discussion
Posted
A single 100w panel can do that?!?!! Wow.