I just tested the power output on 146.940 MHz of my dB20g and the radio, which is rated for 20 watts on GMRS, put out a solid 30 watts. I had to double check it, but that’s what it said. I wish now that I had another wattmeter for VHF to compare.
I haven’t seen any reports here of the Db20g failing. I have two of them. One I opened up and connected to a Comet dual band SB5 antenna. I use it for 2 meter and 70 cm in my 4Runner. The other is factory configured for GMRS and is connected to a Midland MXTA26 GMRS antenna in my pickup. Neither have acted up. For the price they seem very capable little radios.
I think that misses his question. For some repeaters the status in the database changes from “Active” to “Stale” (or some such language) after a period of time with no updates to the database, generally thought to be a year. Why does the database continue to reflect that these repeaters are active?
His title said BTech GMRS Pro.
There's a bluetooth dongle that fits the K1 size audio plug that allows programming just as if a cable is plugged in, when it works. I don't have one and I don't have a BTech GMRS Pro, and my spanish is poor, so I can't really help.
Here's the bluetooth dongle:
The manual Bird coax switches are still available. I just got a 718 and went to the Bird site to learn more about it. It’s impressive. It physically disconnects two N connectors, one at the common and one at whichever switched port you choose. It appears to be a run of coax internally as well.
I think a transfer switch is just another name for a coax switch. There are also some that are manual but which have power for indication. It would be a bitch to buy one of them only to find out it isn’t remotely controlled.
Here’s a schematic for one of the Transco transfer switches. I like the fact that when it’s unpowered the common defaults to port one. I would hook that to either a dummy load or ground.
https://www.hamanuals.com/MMans/Transco Switch - Schematic.pdf
Here’s another that has an attractive price. https://www.rfparts.com/switches/switches-coax/82152-146c70100-8.html
If you don’t get this one I might. Although I just picked up a Bird manual 718 coax switch that’s just really cool. ?
Based on the label of another switch you apply voltage to the common terminal and the terminal labeled to match the coax output. Seems straightforward, plus you should be able to find documentation
For the antennas in the attic just run all the wires internally. You don’t need lightning protection for them and the HOA should never know or care.
Only run the coax for the HF outside.
What about one of these surplus coax switches. Several use SMA or N switches. Here’s one in particular that only requires 24 vDC to actuate and it latches.
https://www.rfparts.com/switches/switches-coax/062-b37-a1c-4a2-loral-p.html
For the antennas in the attic just run all the wires internally. You don’t need lightning protection for them and the HOA should never know or care.
Only run the coax for the HF outside.
Compare the specs:
Tram 6.5 dBd, which is ≈8.6 dBi
Fong 2.2 dBi - it has about the same gain as a dipole
Tram is fiberglass encased
Fong is contained within PVC
On paper the Tram looks better.