SteveShannon

That worked well!

Man I know that feeling. So many online accounts, so many passwords and I’ve been trying to not reuse passwords. Post-it notes everywhere! (Kidding) Password managers help some but not if you have more than one and it seems each and every browser has one built in now. I did try to go look at my license pdf to see if I could find the typo, but this device isn’t one with the right password manager or I’m in the wrong browser or something else.

Look at it this way: I’m a ham and a gmrs licensee. Once the GMRS license comes down and the ham license goes up, I’ll still be paying exactly the same average cost for comm licenses. ?

You already posted it, but did you find the typo? ?

My understanding of the OP is that he/she found a misspelling on the official pdf license and he/she is challenging us to find it.

Yeah, I would think so! Good job!

It was the twelfth post on the first page where I posted this link: https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Radios-NMO-SC-Suction-Antenna/dp/B08177PQPH

I’m curious why the vacuum mount wouldn’t work.

The easiest path to getting a license is online studying. I really liked HamStudy. It’s like flash cards but with explanations of every concept. It emphasizes those questions you don’t get and leads you to other information. Although it could be used to simply study for the test it really allowed me to learn the concepts. It’s up to the user.

This happens frequently when you install as a user or install as an administrator without being logged in as the administrator. Log in as administrator and reinstall it. You might have to uninstall it first.

I see amateur radio as something for nearly everyone. There are people bouncing signals off the moon, building equipment, fox hunting, rag chewing, and just about anything a person could want. It started as a hobby for people fascinated by a new technology. It continues to reflect new technology. ARRL simply reflects that.

I just joined ARRL and faced the same choice. It kind of depends on how you like to read magazines and whether you’re someone who keeps them and goes back through them. Look at the sample issues online before you choose. I looked at On the Air online and thought it had less content, so I ordered QST. I tend to keep magazines after I read them. 73 de AI7KS

Well, my wife and I did share a bottle of Prosecco this week and I had great baked clams for lunch today, so maybe that’s why I could find it… ??

That's what I get if I click on it from the Forum level or in my Account or Profile settings. I have to go all the way back out to the home page (https://mygmrs.com/), click on the bars in the upper left corner, and then click on My Subscriptions to get to the place where I can subscribe.

For $50/year (or $5/month) you can experience the site without advertisements and there are other benefits: https://mygmrs.com/profile/subscriptions

Here's some actual measurements. Sitting at my table the other day transmitted to the local DMR repeater. I watched the results using the "Last Heard" window on the Brandmeister website. The Brandmeister window displays a bunch of useful things, including the signal strength of each transmission heard on a repeater on the network. It's a great tool for diagnosing issues with DMR. Without moving from my chair, I swapped antennas back and forth. The long one was a 17 inch TIDRadio 771 (not sure if it's a knock off or privately branded by Nagoya) on a 70 cm DMR HT and the short one was the 6 inch rubber ducky that came with my HT. Using the longer antenna, when I transmit to the local repeater, which is 16 miles away with lots of buildings and trees in-between, I get an S8 reported by the repeater. Using the standard rubber ducky I get an S6, which is 12 dBm lower. In my opinion that's not insignificant. During our weekly network check-in, using a Baofeng and a 24 inch antenna, a guy 45 miles away hit a 2 meter repeater at the same site. I am impressed by the difference the longer antennas make. I'm sure there's something much better, but for the price, It may be good enough.

@rdunajewski is the one person who can help diagnose this. I'm not sure whether it's best to tag him, like I just did, or to report the content, which would get his attention, but could have a negative connotation. Good luck, Richard Leach!

Really, that’s interesting and good to know. So they must do something clever in the radio. Does it matter where the volume control is set like with some radios? Thanks! Added: of course that simply adds to the uncertainty for the OP. Based on WyoJoe’s comments the GM-30 requires an active cable, such as the FTDI. If the OP has a direct connect cable that could explain the issue.

Yeah, I was being lazy and not looking at the manual for the GM-30 (or remembering back three posts ?). I think any cable that plugs into the K1 style connector must be an active cable. It’s basically acting like a modem or UART.

I don’t know whether the GM-30 uses an active chip based programming cable or if the cable is completely passive, but you’re exactly right that the computer should detect a device on the port when the radio and cable are plugged in together, although it might simply see it as an unidentifiable device, which would then require a driver. If the computer doesn’t see anything on the port at all (which is totally consistent with everything you have said all along) then either the USB port is disabled (security rulz or BIOS settings) or as you say a dead cable. If the radio requires an active cable, such as one with the FTDI or Prolific chip, then simply plugging in the cable should trigger a USB response of some kind. If you plug anything else into the USB port is it recognized? If so then it’s not the BIOS. Are you logged in as the admin? I prefer not to run that way generally, but sometimes you have to to diagnose things like this.

Those are the frequencies to scan. For amateur radio users, the transmit frequencies are calculated by taking the correct offset for the band and either adding it to or subtracting it from the receive frequency, based on the sign in the parentheses. For 2 meter band the offset is 0.6 MHz. For 70 cm or GMRS the offset is 5 MHz. Maybe a couple of examples would help: For the 145.290 repeater the transmit frequency for hams would be 145.290 - 0.6 = 144.690 MHz. For the 444.400 repeater the transmitter needs to be set to 444.400 + 5.0 = 449.400 MHz.

That’s an interesting question. At first I was going to say that I believe the “transmitter output” refers to the circuit, not the physical box, but I’m not sure.

I asked a couple of times what you see in Device Manager, but you’ve never answered that question. That’s the best way to diagnose what’s going wrong with a driver. Until the driver works, you won’t get an acknowledgement. A screenshot is best, but if not, then look for an exclamation point in Device Manager.