UncleYoda

I'm 3000mi from you so proof isn't possible. But, the best answer I can think of are the power level settings on my Yaesu mobile: 5W, 10W, 30W, 75W. Doubling (or more) the power at each step can make a difference of whether the signal is copy-able or how strong/loud it sounds based on distance and intervening terrain. Years ago I did compare FRS bubble-pack radios to old Cobra 2W GMRS radios with stock, short antenna and the Cobras were better (good signal 1/2-3/4 mi.) Note: I used the ham radio for an example because my DB20G in GMRS mode has no power adjustment. Haven't done any tests on my GMRS HTs (UV5G) because they're good enough.

Yep, I had found that one and have it marked to order. It fits other 5RM models like my K5+. A ham friend strongly endorsed that one a few years ago. I didn't get it after reading the negative reviews. I recall there's another one that some reviewers say performs equally for half the price. They do often fall apart (even TV/stereo headphones at the local big box store are the same inferior quality). The best quality I've found is CommMountain. It's a lapel clip style. The mic holes are tiny and clog easily.

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@TerriKennedy If you have any influence with BTech, two things I'd like to see them make higher quality versions of are (1) battery eliminators (my experience is with ones for UV-5R and compatible models), and (2) speaker mics. A third would be earphones with mic button with a more durable cord (I've replaced a bunch of those). I use the earphones indoors but would like to use the speaker mic outside if there was a good one available.

Calm down Queenie. I was trying to get him to understand it's not "dual on both". Sounded like by both bands he may also be thinking of bands A and B as the two frequency bands in VFO mode, rather than Line A and B.

Sounds like you're misunderstanding. There is no "dual monitoring on both bands". It alternates automatically between checking Display A and Display B. It only receives on one or the other at one time. And the dual watch setting is called TDR on the UV5R function menu.

What I've noticed with some of these CCR vendors is they use fake American sounding female names for either a Chinese person or an automated bot. With the use of AI increasing, expect more of that.

So, did those places complain about the radios? Anyway, I never claimed there weren't places with the name. Just isn't relevant IMO. Everyone can read their own labels so no need to argue that point further. As I wrote earlier, I don't think anyone else cares. Most people still don't pronounce it correctly either. :) My opinion is BTech doesn't have any radios that are unique, just some minor tweaks and a custom label.

The battery isn't - the contacts are on the inside face. It's a 5RM or 5RH variant not a UV-5R.

The story I heard wasn't about a place name. It was that Baofeng is a family name and the family objected to its use for these radios. That's when I first started seeing Pofung as a brand. But I wasn't referring to branding but rather what it shows on the manufacturer label on the back of a recent radio I bought. And as far as that Fuji Nana stuff goes, I've also seen other stuff like Quansheng Electronics. It's apparently whatever they want to call it - neither companies nor brands mean the same thing in China as here. My UV-5G says "Po Fung Electronic(HK) International Group Company" and that's from 2022. p.s. I don't know what your Pro version is but the BFF9 I got (supposed to have been an improved BFF8 with 8 watts like an HP) was terrible, extremely low power on 440 and same as 5W models on 2m. Worst UV5R type I ever got.

You'll learn not to take many of his posts seriously.

If being like everyone else is the definition of sane, I'm content to be crazy. Using a post card instead would be more friendly.

What Steve said, plus Baofeng the company is actually Pofung. Not that anyone in America cares as long as it still has Baofeng on the front label.

By "two lined version" are y'all both referring to plain UV-5G? Holding down "8" while turning on does nothing on my plain UV-5G. Holding 3 still works though to give the firmware number (and it isn't what Chirp shows).

The actual ground (i.e., dirt) can be a conductor of lightning that hits nearby, especially wet ground in a thunderstorm. By installing grounding wires, you may be increasing potential of that getting to your electronic devices inside. For ordinary folks, disconnecting the devices from the AC and antenna lines is the best option.

I have experienced what Marc described, but I learned to avoid them so it has no impact on me. If they are becoming less common it's mostly because the old farts are dying out. Adding to what Marc described, a lot of HAMs want to only have meaningless social chat, which is not what I got radios for. I deleted all the nearby repeaters from my channels because I'm fed up with these people. I asked about joining a club in my hometown and was told no, to start my own. After I moved I went to the nearest club meeting and was mocked for only doing 2m (and 440). I've asked about starting nets twice and was turned down. Gave up on ARES when they made training and deployment as criteria. Skywarn was moved to a repeater I won't use because of policy. Really nothing left for me on HAM. GMRS turned out to be disappointing as well, but I monitor it more now than HAM. Back on topic, there is a new GMRS repeater only up 30ft but the owner wants to link to a node (did he miss all the brouhaha?). Same frequency used by other repeaters that likely overlap his area. From what I recall the linked system owner shut down so I don't know why this is even still available.

@Raybestos It's never stopped working for me. I did create a new password when prompted. The only update in SC in the past week is a short range repeater near Carowinds. If you need something in particular, I'll check on it for you.

All linking is a violation of GMRS regs. That shouldn't be really hard for people to grasp.

Unless your UV-5G is different from mine, it can't be changed from the radio. It requires editing in Chirp. The Shift-D set to "Off" is the same as blank in Chirp, which is the setting for simplex transmit.

One of Chirp's quirks is that for DTCS, you only enter the code in the "DTCS" column and leave the "RX DTCS" blank and it sets both TX and RX to the same tone.

There's no advantage; you could just get a UV5R.

No

Some cigarette light adapters work OK with some radios; some cause problems, typically noise like whining. I haven't heard of any radios being damaged. For me they mostly work at low power. One issue I know of is power may drop relatively quickly when the car isn't running, so for a base station multiple batteries are a good idea. p.s. any kin to Samuel F.? my GG-grandfather apprenticed under him

Isn't it chaos already when people's posts are being downvoted just because of who they are? IMO, that violates the rules anyway.

Only in your mind. I was commenting on the setting being available in the software. It's there, that's it. I will test it when I feel confident again in Chirp not messing the radio up. You still don't understand that this is different than fully open. Fully opening makes it a non-compliant radio. Just putting in other GMRS frequencies at the appropriate power level does not. But you can't seem to grasp the difference so I'm done with this.