I get my Wouxun KG-1000 G Plus Mobil Today - Base Antenna Discussion

[Tiercel]

Its like Christmas.  My I get my Wouxun KG-1000 G Plus Mobil Today.  It is out for delivery.  The only issue is that my play time is reduced because I have several irons in the fire including my upcoming Ham tests which I have not studied for recently.  I just inherited a WWII Mauser my great uncle brought home from Europe after the war so I am cleaning and researching.  I am trying to sell some estate property, and my son just sent me the book "One Second After" which is a pretty riveting and interesting book so not enough hours in the day.  I am not complaining,  It could be worse.

I will start by setting it up as a base just so I can get used to it without sitting in a car and have it next to my PC for programming.  I do have a laptop however so that is not a big issue.

[SteveShannon]

3 hours ago, WRZM228 said:

Hi,

    Trying to get this antenna for the GMRS frequency. I'm just a bit unclear on the grounding system. Did I understand that the correct way of grounding typically like at the both ends of the connector (radio and antenna) and connected to lets say 14 gauge and the wire goes down to a copper ground rod 6 feet or more under. Is that correct? Thank you.

Don’t worry about grounding the antenna at the mast end. A j-pole like that is already in contact with the mast (although clamps would be better than tape).

Just run a ground wire at the bottom of the mast to your ground system. 
Then, where the coax enters the house, install a lightning arrester and run its ground to the same ground system.

The Reeve document I posted above does a pretty good job of explaining the requirements.  
Here is a link to it:

https://reeve.com/Documents/Articles Papers/Reeve_AntennaSystemGroundingRequirements.pdf

[BoxCar]

For coax, go here: https://thewireman.com/product-category/feed-lines/coax/?product_count=48. The Wire Man provides the private branded RG-8 coax sold by DX Engineering. Same coax, half the price,

[WRUU653]

1 hour ago, WRZM228 said:

I'm not really sure how it works because I'm just new to this site. I just looks at what was written and I just dont want to circumvent the owner. So do you mean this is open like whats indicated the picture? Thanks.

 

 

It says it’s an open system and it shows the tones so you have what you need to access the repeater. They ask for you to fill out the request so they know who’s using it so if you did that you’re good to go. That’s the way I interpret it. Looks like there are a few repeaters near you so that’s nice. 

[SteveShannon]

6 hours ago, WRZM228 said:

That's not what I said. Its very clear in the "previous picture" the request didn't pass. 

There’s no need to snap.  Depending on how the answers are sorted the “previous picture” is completely out of context.  A type 500 error is a problem that only the person responsible for the website can diagnose.  

My friend @WRUU653 is exactly right that you have done everything that was requested.  I would suggest that you send a PM to the owner of the repeater and let him know about the type 500 error and let him (or her) know you intend to occasionally use the repeater.  Then get on the repeater and if the owner shows up mention the website error to them.

[SteveShannon]

49 minutes ago, WRZM228 said:

I gotta get me a mast, lightning rod, coax, ground rod, 14 gauge ground wire, clamps, new UHF SWR meter and coax connectors. They already shipped the antenna this morning. Do you guys think 8 footer rod will give me 100% grounding?

 

You might want to read this relatively short document on grounding.  

https://reeve.com/Documents/Articles Papers/Reeve_AntennaSystemGroundingRequirements.pdf

14 ga. is too light for ground wire. 8 ga. or larger is required.  

You might not need a ground rod, but if you use one it must be connected to your service ground.

I don’t know where you plan to mount a lightning rod, but a lightning arrester where the coax enters the house is a good idea.  It needs to be grounded to the same ground as everything else to prevent current from flowing through your antenna shield conductor. 

[WRYZ926]

I should get my KG 1000G Plus tomorrow according to USPS informed delivery. I'm still waiting on my seat bolt mount for the car so I can install my 2m/70cm radio and my KG 1000G Plus.

[WRWE456]

Nice! Lots of cools stuff happening. That's a scary book by the way. You will want to read all three I'm sure. You may become a prepper after reading them. You will want more radios that's for sure.

Do you have a power supply for it yet? My KG-1000Gplus is my base radio as well. I have not felt the need to program it yet as I have a scanner right next to it that covers the local Sheriff, fire and EMS and stuff that I am interested in and is much faster. Don't use or need repeaters here. These Wouxun radios are easy to program from the front panel if you just need a few additions. I have added a few frequencies to monitor on my KG-935Gplus its not hard. One of the reasons I bought them (I have three) in fact is for emergency use and don't want to have to rely on a computer if I need to make a change during an emergency.

[WRYZ926]

The Wouxun radios are easy to program from the front panel or mic. The XS20G Plus was easy enough and very similar to the 935G Plus I helped program for a friend. My next purchase will probably be the KG935G Plus or I might splurge and get the KG Q10G.

[Tiercel]

4 hours ago, WRWE456 said:

That's a scary book by the way. You will want to read all three I'm sure. You may become a prepper after reading them.

Do you have a power supply for it yet? My KG-1000Gplus is my base radio as well...I have a scanner right next to it that covers the local Sheriff, fire and stuff that I am interested in and is much faster. 

I was not aware there was more than one book.  Is it a continuation of the same events?  It could make a good movie.  I am surprised if I has not been done. 

I have considered getting a top end scanner /radio that was in the $600 range.  That's a lot for a receiver but it had rave reviews. I think it received almost everything from HF to SSB etc.  I don't know much anymore about scanning first responders since I think many have encoded transmissions. 

I do have a power supply.  I got Tekpower 30A power supply for $100.  I saw some positive Youtube reviews on a couple Ham channels so I took a chance on it. 

Right now I have the KG1000-G Plus hooked up next to my desk with a Midland Mag antenna on a 4 drawer metal file cabinet on the second story of my house..
 

 

[WRWE456]

The book is the first of a three part series.

You must be looking at the Uniden SDS100 or SDS200 scanners. I would love to have one of those but would be a wast of it's talents here. It really depends where you live as to what scanner you will want. As I mentioned in my rural area everything is still analog so I get by just fine with a $130. analog hand held.

A 30 amp PS is fine. Leaves room for other accessories.

 

One thing I would caution about that set up is the RF energy radiation so close to you at high power settings. I would keep it to 5 watts until you can mount it on the roof or somewhere above and away from people.

 

[WRYZ926]

If you decide to use your KG-100G as a base station, look at the Comet CA-712EFC antenna, that is if you don't have to deal with any restrictions on antennas.

I have the Comet CA-712EFC and have been very pleased with it. I have it mounted to a j mount on the top of my roof so the base is 18 foot above ground level and I have no problem talking to people 20 miles away with rolling hills and lot of woods between us. I can talk to guys using an HT at that distance depending on the terrain between us.

According to USPS, my KG-100G and seat bolt mount are out for delivery so I will be busy installing everything tomorrow. I am going to the VA for a couple of appointments today.

[WRWE456]

WRYZ926 which radio have you been using with your Comet antenna?

[WRYZ926]

1 hour ago, WRWE456 said:

WRYZ926 which radio have you been using with your Comet antenna?

Right now I am using my Midland MXT500.

[Tiercel]

I appreciate recommendations on a base antenna.  I have no restrictions other than how much I want to climb around on the roof of a two story house.  My base will be in my upstairs office/study just below the attic window.  I can open the window facing west and bend out and reach my stone chimney so an antenna mounted would only need 25ft or less of coax.

Issues:
Not crazy about climbing around on the peak of the roof even though I used to be a climber that contracted with the power company to top trees over power lines.  I trust a rope and saddle climbing rig but I am not crazy about ladders.  

I am also not crazy putting straps around my stone chimney.  I have no experience ridge mounting an antenna and I also wonder if I ridge mounted it near the chimney if the chimney will create a shadow blocking the signal.

I have considered whether it is possible to rig some sort of a mast that extends from the attic window and upward a little higher than the chimney. 

I have also considered whether it would be feasible to to mount on my back porch roof in the corner and extend a mast up from there.

[wayoverthere]

What about mounting off to the left in that view? Thinking 2 or 3 sections of top rail for the mast; it'll cost a little extra in coax, but I'd want to get it away from those utility lines, both for potential RFI and for drop hazard. That attic vent could be a nice spot for the coax to exit, though.

[WRWE456]

However you mount it it will work better on the roof and clear of all obstructions.

A mast and stand off mounts could work. Could maybe be done from a ladder from the ground.

Know any construction workers that are comfortable working from ladders?

Here is what I mean by wall stand off mounts. They come on different sizes depending on your roof overhang.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/roh-wm8d

DX Engineering is a good place to shop for all manner of radio gear. Though not really GMRS.

[WRWE456]

2 hours ago, WRYZ926 said:

Right now I am using my Midland MXT500.

That is also a 50 watt rig. Just curios why the KG-1000 to replace it?

[Tiercel]

I just looked at the Comet CA-712EFC and was surprised that it only weighs 3 pounds.  It seems I could mount a J-pole antenna mount on the attic window/vent frame and a support bracket on the fascia.  I could run the coax in the attic so it would not be visible.

Those power lines are only a 220V insulated wires and would be more than 10ft from the base of the antenna so I am thinking there would not be an RF issue.  My mag mount antenna is on a file cabinet right inside the window much closer and it seems to cause no issue.  

I think it is obvious that I have to ground this antenna.  I am guessing this is done by bolting a copper ground wire to the mast and bolting the other end to a conductive metal stake driven a few feet into the ground.  Is this known to protect equipment or just save me from being fried? my guess is the latter and it is best to disconnect during a storm.

[WRYZ926]

 

2 hours ago, Tiercel said:

I just looked at the Comet CA-712EFC and was surprised that it only weighs 3 pounds.  It seems I could mount a J-pole antenna mount on the attic window/vent frame and a support bracket on the fascia.  I could run the coax in the attic so it would not be visible.

The standard J Mount works well for radio antennas. You will get better reception if you can get the base of the antenna higher than the roof. I bought a 40" tall j mount from Amazon for mine.

5 hours ago, WRWE456 said:

That is also a 50 watt rig. Just curios why the KG-1000 to replace it?

For one the KG-100G is superheterodyne while the Midland is a SOC. I can tell a difference between the two. Plus I like the ability to mount the head separate from the main body in my vehicles and on my desk top. Plus I am just not very impressed with Midland radios after using the MXT500.

[SteveShannon]

14 hours ago, Tiercel said:

I just looked at the Comet CA-712EFC and was surprised that it only weighs 3 pounds.  It seems I could mount a J-pole antenna mount on the attic window/vent frame and a support bracket on the fascia.  I could run the coax in the attic so it would not be visible.

Those power lines are only a 220V insulated wires and would be more than 10ft from the base of the antenna so I am thinking there would not be an RF issue.  My mag mount antenna is on a file cabinet right inside the window much closer and it seems to cause no issue.  

I think it is obvious that I have to ground this antenna.  I am guessing this is done by bolting a copper ground wire to the mast and bolting the other end to a conductive metal stake driven a few feet into the ground.  Is this known to protect equipment or just save me from being fried? my guess is the latter and it is best to disconnect during a storm.

I spent 23 years working for an electric utility.  I knew a lineman who was killed by “just 220”.  It’s not the voltage. It only takes 0.10 amps to stop your heart.

Hooking the mast to a separate ground is a mistake. If you’re planning to ground the mast, which isn’t a bad idea, you are required to connect that ground to your service ground, which should be right there where your service entrance is anyway.  I’ll come back and post a link to a short and easy to understand article, here:  https://reeve.com/Documents/Articles Papers/Reeve_AntennaSystemGroundingRequirements.pdf

For your antenna feedline, you should ideally bring it into a lightning arrester first before bringing it into your house, but disconnecting it outside whenever it’s not in use will offer protection.  Disconnecting it inside the house protects your radio but still gives lightning a path into your house.

[WRYZ926]

I know talking about grounding everything can and does cause arguments. The PDF that @Sshannon posted is a good read and simple to understand. NEC and local building codes will determine what is needed for grounding everything.

Grounding rods and 6 gauge grounding wire is cheap enough and worth the protection. I grounded both my masts to ground rods. I also have a ground rod right below the bulkhead where my cables attach and go through the wall into the house. All of those groups are also bonded to my service ground. I still need to add lightning arresters to the cables. The lightning arresters also help discharge any static electricity too.

I put a ground rod right at the base of the taller mast that my 2m/70cm antenna is since it is on the far side of the house from my shack. The GMRS antenna is right above the shack and bulkhead so I used one ground rod for that mast and the bulkhead. My service ground is half way between the two so I ran 6 gauge wire between the two ground rods to the service ground.

Sorry for the derailment of the thread but safety is important.

[Tiercel]

WRZ926, I don't consider any discussion of proper grounding as hijacking the discussion whether it is my setup or that of others.  I have yet to the study the document Sshannon provided but I am anxious to do so.  I have to jump on some Ham test study ASAP however.

My PA house was built before most public utilities (1878).  While my service box(s) are grounded, most of my circuits are two wire ungrounded circuits.  The exception is my kitchen.  I have put ground fault receptacles on some of the other two-wire circuits which complies with local code. My point is that my electrical situation is less than ideal.

I will definitely get the antenna higher than the roof and at least some of the antenna (if not all) higher than the chimney.  I will study the provided article to see what I can learn.  I clearly understand the difference between V and A.  Amps kill not volts (a difference I first learned when playing jokes on friends with an ignition coil condenser as boy on the farm). Later, working over very high voltage/amperage transmission lines in my 20's I observed arcs and fireballs trailing powerlines that remain vivid in my memory. My thought about the 220 volts was not to suggest to anyone that 220V at ANY likely amperage is not dangerous because it is.  I could be wrong on this but my point was that it was unlikely to cause any RF interference on an antenna over 10ft away since it seems to cause none on my mobile antenna that is right inside the window about 4 feet away.  If I am wrong on that point, please speak up.

I am interested in this comment

On 11/14/2023 at 10:24 AM, WRWE456 said:

One thing I would caution about that set up is the RF energy radiation so close to you at high power settings. I would keep it to 5 watts until you can mount it on the roof or somewhere above and away from people.

Is this a real concern in the short term if I am 5 ft from a mobile antenna or is it a theoretical or perceived danger.  We are all bombarded by RF ever second including cell phones, WIFI routers sitting 2 feet away, and every signal a multiband receiver can pick just to name a few.  I think about the houses I know that live very close to commercial broadcast transmission antennas that make 50 W look like a joke.

[WRWE456]

32 minutes ago, Tiercel said:

Is this a real concern in the short term if I am 5 ft from a mobile antenna or is it a theoretical or perceived danger.  We are all bombarded by RF ever second including cell phones, WIFI routers sitting 2 feet away, and every signal a multiband receiver can pick just to name a few.  I think about the houses I know that live very close to commercial broadcast transmission antennas that make 50 W look like a joke.

You are right and it is all harmful and anything you can do to reduce exposure is helpful. There are recommended limits of exposure for every wireless device. The real issue today is that there is ever increasing amounts bombarding us constantly with all the new tech people keep adding to their lives. If you take every device separately it is not so bad but it is the collective exposure to all of it that it becomes harmful to biological life. That is all life including wildlife, your pets even plants. There are pros and cons to everything and wireless tech is no different. The tech company's downplay it because they don't want lose profits just like any other big industry. Think cigarettes.

In the short term maybe not a big deal but exposure damage is cumulative. Anyway just something else to think about.

[SteveShannon]

2 hours ago, Tiercel said:

My PA house was built before most public utilities (1878).  While my service box(s) are grounded, most of my circuits are two wire ungrounded circuits.  The exception is my kitchen.  I have put ground fault receptacles on some of the other two-wire circuits which complies with local code. My point is that my electrical situation is less than ideal.

That won't affect your radio stuff at all.  Other than your power supply, nothing else plugs into the house service.  Also, GFIs are sometimes sensitive to RF, so you don't want your radio power supply plugged into one.

[WRYZ926]

If you end up using a window pass through bulkhead, you can have a piece of 1/4" all thread sticking out both sides. This allows you to ground the bulkheads and coax to an outside ground rod. And on the inside you can also ground all of your radio chassis to the bulkhead if you want. Old homes should still have a service ground so you will want to bond everything to it too.

Here is the 40" j mount that I am currently using for my GMRS antenna.

 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GBWLMQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

And the pipe is 1 5/8" in diameter so you can get some 1 5/8" fence posts to extend it if needed and use these 1 5/8" couplers to connect them together.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BCFTBL4H?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Just remember that if you go much higher than the j mount you will most likely want to guy the mast. With a light weight vertical antenna, you can use the proper guy rope. I didn't add any more pipe to my j mount so I did not need to guy it.