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Wondering why the radio has the open option for other bands if it's not "rated" for them? What radios are specifically certified for ham (I might want one)? Had my DB20(G) for about a year, unlocked it once I got my ham ticket and it's worked great since day one, on all bands/frequencies that it is programmed for... oh yeah, another happy and satisfied CA guy here, enjoying experimenting in the hobby and staying radioactive!

There is no such thing as a "certified radio" for HAM! If someone opens up the DB-20G specifically to transmit on 2 meters and 70 cms; more power to them (about 18 watts on 70 cms and 20 watts on 2 meters ?) And that's Mr. CA guy, to you!

Sorry to hear about that misadventure with the NMO. I always remove interior lights and use inspection mirror and tiny flashlight to have a good visual of the roof crossbeams to avoid this exact scenario.

FWIW: I've had my 779UV for about two months now. It was delivered with version 2.26 firmware (software for inside the radio) which had its problems but I uploaded version 2.30 and haven't had a bit of problem with it. I really don't see the need for an over-featured, 50-watt radio -- 20 does me just fine. Anytone threw in the programming cable, which was a plus. Retevis is showing their RA25 for $93.99 on their own website (no mention of cable). Radioddity was my first choice, actually, but their DB-20G had been out of stock since the middle of June (the reason I got the Anytone). Hmmm... Radioddity appears to have theirs in stock now on their website (comes with programming cable, like Anytone).

Hey, Marc You are loosing it, man. Your granddaughter's reflection diary starts with https://schoolloop.com/...

I don't think Sad Ham means what you think it means. Alex isn't a sad ham... he's a decent guy and so is Randy. The thing is Randy @OffRoaderX has been correct with most of his statements and he has some pretty solid opinions that I haven't really been able to rebut. However, Randy (or at least his online personality) also doesn't care if your feelings are hurt by the truth or his opinions, and that upsets some people... which I find THAT ironic! LoL

Another reason to: "Be sure to FIRST download and save the default Codeplug that comes pre-installed."

I know that's a rhetorical question, but if they "lock" the radio back to GMRS, then it is type-accepted again. But you knew that already.

Channel spacing on GMRS is 25 kHz. 462.550, 462.575, 462.600 and so on. And indeed, channel spacing for low power and FRS-only channels is 12.5 kHz. Channel bandwidth is something entirely different, related to how much information could possibly be pushed through the specific channel. Term is not really applicable to what we are talking about. What chinese manufacturers can't properly translate is an occupied spectrum. For most of the radios I'm familiar with, it is 16 kHz for wide band, and 11 kHz for narrow band.

Good point. Not too mention the sad hams complaining about your post. LOL they don't even see the irony. Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk

I'd have to double check version, but I've used radioddity's software with my 2 Anytones as well, and have not checked for firmware updates either.

It might require tweaking the dimensions some to return to the desired band tuning.

Practically speaking, wall thickness matters only for resistance to physical damage.

Might be difficult to detect, given that FM itself is sort of "doppler" -- the frequency is deviating around the center (tuned) frequency to carry the voice signal. Now... AM (old CB with a 10ft 1/4wave whip bumper mounted) I could see doppler, as the carrier frequency is moving around (along with the side bands) it would show as a tuning error. SSB it would show as a change in voice pitch (as the offset from tuned frequency determines pitch, and if the sideband is moving en-bloc, the pitch will move with it)

"Frequencies at will" isn't quite what I'd call it. ? At least, not for GMRS usage. Scanner usage on other bands/services may be somewhat "at will" but will still be from FCC listed frequencies (except for Amateur, and maybe the AM Aircraft bands, all services use FCC defined frequencies -- Amateur is granted a frequency range, and may use any ad-hoc frequency within that range -- channelization is by Amateur convention in the VHF/UHF bands and even that is not constant [some regions use 25kHz spacing on 2m, others use 20kHz spacing to fit in more "channels"]) Basically -- don't bother changing frequencies for the factory pre-set channels. For radios that permit adding "channels" basically copy the nearest matching pre-set and then modify tones/power level/name as needed. For the Portland repeater, that would be copy the .550 repeater channel (#23 in most linear schemes) to an empty slot, change the name, set Tx/Rx CTCSS tones to 100.0, ensure wide FM, give it a default power level (High, most likely). Done! For general scanning (Weather if not built-in, for example), the critical items are the Rx frequency and bandwidth (25/20/12.5kHz), though setting Tx to match Rx may reduce confusion. Tones should be NONE, power should be irrelevant as the unit should not be trying to transmit on these (if there is a Tx Inhibit option, for safety, select it on the channel). Most Land Mobile is on 12.5kHz these days; Amateur (and Weather) are still 25kHz I believe. MURS 1-3 are 12.5kHz, 4&5 are nominally 20kHz [25kHz is safe] but 12.5kHz is allowed.

Unless using a repeater, or on very open terrain, your range may be much less than 5 miles. UHF is considered a "line-of-sight" service -- for a radio held 5 feet (I'm presuming a "typical" person, if you are all basketball stars running 6.5' or more the numbers will change some) the horizon distance is 2.7 miles. Call it 2.5 just to clear the actual horizon and have the signal pass on... Open fields would then be you 5 mile range (person A to 2.5 closest approach to earth then another 2.5 miles to get to person B). Woods and buildings will rapidly reduce the range (though UHF can get /into/ buildings slightly better than VHF -- the wavelength at UHF is smaller then many window frames; metal frames at VHF tend to act as a shield). Frequencies? GMRS is (in current FCC regulations*) split into four channel groups. 462MHz GMRS Main (simplex) channels (in the current consolidated numbering scheme: #15-#22), allowed up to 50W output power, (wide) FM. Note that these are also the output frequencies for repeaters, so you may hear repeater traffic on these channels 467MHz GMRS Main (repeater) channels (#23-#30 on some units, or #15-#22 with an R/RP/RPTR notation on the display). Again up to 50W, (w) FM. These are transmit only frequencies, for 467.xxx you listen on 462.xxx 462MHz interstitial channels (#1-#7). These were channels created in the 90s I believe -- they are centered between the main channels and partly overlap the main channels. Limited to 5W ERP (not transmitter output, but effective power in the main beam of the antenna -- using a high-gain antenna with a 5W transmitter can exceed the 5W ERP!). (w) FM. 467MHz interstitial channels (#8-#14). Until the 2017 FCC reorganization, these were FRS-only channels. They split the Repeater input channels. To avoid repeater interference, these channels are restricted to 0.5W ERP and Narrow FM; use of any gain antenna will definitely exceed the ERP limit for practically any GMRS radio on low power (mobile radios do not have these as they typically have 5W as the low power AND have gain antennas). Unless you are working through a local repeater, you probably won't use ANY channel with 467MHz. Without a repeater no one will hear you if you are transmitting on 467MHz repeater frequencies; the 467MHz interstitials are too low in power to get through any vegetation at the distances you are considering (at close range -- say within a camping site -- 0.5W could be usable). If everyone is running 5W HTs, the 462MHz interstitials would be candidates (if there are repeaters in the vicinity, you won't come into conflict). If mobiles are in play (or there are too many kiddies with FRS radios sending calling tones on the channels and you need to find a clear frequency), you might use the 462MHz main simplex channels -- a the mobile could use more than 5W power. CTCSS/DCS tones (many manuals may refer to these as "privacy" codes) may not be desired for your use. The tones do NOT make your transmissions "private" -- anyone with a radio configured for "no tone" can hear you. What the tones do is /block/ transmissions from others that are not using the same tones. You'll probably be keeping the channels in High power (5W vs 0.5W low) -- unless, as mentioned above, you are in a close range situation where 0.5W is sufficient. High/Low BAND refers to UHF/VHF frequencies, and likely applies mainly to setting up channels for receive-only/scanning use. Valid frequencies are listed in FCC Part 95 E. Simplex frequencies will have the same frequency for Tx and Rx; repeater channels will have 467.xxx for Tx and 462.xxx for Rx (note that main channels have 3 digit .xxx [or end with a 0 as in .xxx0; interstitials are .xxx5]). * If you haven't, I recommend perusing FCC Part 95 E https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-47/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-95/subpart-E [use the Print/PDF item to get a local copy]

Mag mounts can work really well. I hate the rust spot it left on my Suburban after 2 months of use. Not to mention the pinched coax. Personally, I say drill the hole. If in doubt, drill from the inside. It is harder to get accurate measurements, so it might no be centered properly but atleast you won't have my problem. I got lazy and paid for it. If it works for you and you are ok with the compromises. Then you do you and blank out the nay sayers.

Welcome to the forum! Congrats on the perfect first post. Look everybody, another trooper from the NotaSingleclue Brigade.

I can't believe all the sad hams now whining about GMRS.

I don't disagree that things that are blatantly against the rules should NOT be encouraged. Equipment modifications are a no brainer for crap you don't do. And yes, the linking seems murky, but the linking seems to get people on the air. Which gets people to buy radios, get licenses and renew licenses. An issue the ham community is fighting with above 50Mhz currently and one they seem to be loosing. This leaves people that wanted to TALK on the radio (what a concept) bored and lacking enjoyment of the ham radio hobby. I realize that talking on the radio is PART of the ham radio hobby, but it's the most important part. Because at the end of the day when you have built some cool new antenna, or radio accessory, or even possibly a radio you want to test it and show off your accomplishment. And if there is no one to talk to about it, whats the point. Part of feeling accomplishment is recognition. Again, take that away and for many there is no longer a point. And while I agree with the statement that lack of enforcement is not a license to forget the rules and turn things into a free for all. I would NEVER encourage someone to do stuff like operate DMR or P25 on GMRS. But I sure would like to do it myself,,,, legally. Which of course isn't possible at this time.

God, I just found this by accident, and couldn't agree MORE. I posted earlier today on eHam about this very thing. Ham's seem to WANT to piss off all comers that are new to the hobby to the point they toss their equipment in a closet, and allow their license to expire in ten years, never really getting involved with the hobby because they came across this mentality and figured it wasn't worth the effort to remain in the hobby.

Or as my chemical spill response instructor and CERT instructor called it Methyl Ethel Bad Stuff. It's funny how the things that can kill you in one specific state are ok to posses in 49 other states. BTW, how are you handling the fact you can't charge you government mandated electric car while you have rolling blackouts? I wonder if the blackouts effect the folks that vote for liberals and the conservative voters equally.

I think the reason people care is because they paid and someone else didn't. It's just a matter of them feeling that if they are keeping the rules, why is nobody else? Yes, hall monitor mentality. I've thought about it. I paid my $35. I hear no call signs being uttered except for when there is a net in operation, or people working a repeater. And I do mean none. Nobody. Never. I never hear another person using a call sign on the GMRS / FRS frequencies except in formal nets or repeater use. Even some nets aren't identifying with call signs. There's nothing that can be accomplished by being grumpy about it. There are tens of thousands of GMRS or FRS radios that have been sold in the past few years within a 25 mile radius of me... of any of us. Maybe more than tens of thousands. One or two grumps are not going to stem the tide. Not even a few hundred. Remember the Internet around 1993-1994? It was well behaved (or at least conformed to a consensus standard). Spam was almost unheard of. Then ever fall a new set of students would get their school-issued accounts, and Usenet would blow up with stupidity for awhile until they were flamed into submission or departure from the medium. And then everything changed: The Internet became popular. AOL started sending out hundreds of million of CDs. There were news stories on the Internet. Books. Magazines. Globally the world was racing to get online. And these newcomers had no idea about, or no interest in stodgy convention. The net-police could flame all they wanted, but there was no stemming the tide of dumbing-down of the Net. All was not lost. It turns out that the Internet became a whole lot more useful when there were droves of people using it. It expanded into use-cases none of the old guard could have dreamed of. And of the unwashed masses? They're fine, it turns out. The real issue is the fraudsters, scammers, and hackers. So enforcement focuses in those areas. All this to say, there's really no point for an end user trying to enforce a policy that not even those who made the policy have any interest in enforcing. Let the FCC spend its time dealing with truly awful abuses, and leave the blister-pack kiddies and hard working businesses alone unless they're really, really causing harm.

Many people lately are asking to change their myGMRS username from their callsign. Seems that they think this is providing some kind of extra security, but it really isn't. Any site user can easily look up a username to see the associated GMRS callsign or vice versa, so picking a different username provides no extra security. I've been using the PO Box method for many years now, and it's really the best way to go if you're concerned about your home address being visible. However, as others have mentioned, you might want to Google your name first and see all the websites that publish a copy of your public records such as your property records and phone numbers. These websites are much more dangerous, and you should go to each one and request they remove your information. There's usually a "Do Not Sell My Information" link in the footer of the website and you can fill out a form to have the information purged. It'll be available for a while in Google, but eventually it'll be gone (notwithstanding websites or people that already grabbed the information). And if you're worried about the Federal government using any of these tools to "find you", you've been living in a hole. If they really wanted to know, they could know which room of your house you're currently in and all your dirty secrets from over the years. Unless you're living off the grid with no technology, you're very easy to find. So try to be a little more rational.

Can you please expand on this statement? I have several, and have used them at altitudes from 30 - 3000 feet (mostly listening for satellites), and have never experienced anything I would remotely classify as "going bonkers". Are you saying they can receive more signals at altitude? And if so, why wouldn't that be expected?

This is ideology is a result of the constant barrage of ham radio operators acting like snobs, idiots, and whatever (take your pick) in online forums every day seemingly doing their best to chase away newcomers to the hobby. And yes, GMRS users also do this, but strangely, many of them also have ham callsigns listed on their forum signatures.

Who actually listens to FM radio on a CCR anyway ? Is that a thing ?

Great report, full of factual information based on actual observations confirming your research. This spring/summer consider putting the two batteries in parallel for added capacity even if the LiFe one has to be removed before winter to prevent freezing.

It depends on your climate and how much use it will see. The RT97 draws about 2 amps on high power and .09 amps when in stand-by. I am running an RT97 on solar power here in Alaska. During the summer when we have lots of sun a 9 amp hour battery and 30 watt panel do just fine. Everytime I checked on it the battery was at 100% capacity. During the winter we have a few issues that make it more difficult. During winter solstice there is only around 4 hours of sunlight. We also have cold weather to deal with. Drop a lead acid battery to around 0 degrees F and you are down to around 80% of its capacity. Last winter I had it running on a 30 watt panel and a 14 amp hour battery. It wasn't enough. By November the battery was already being run down to the cut off voltage of 11.2 volts. 75% of last November the repeater was down. We didn't have enough snow to prevent me from getting to the site so I was able to get to it and swap it battery out for a 9 amp hour one I had. Yes it is smaller but I wanted to save the larger, more expensive, battery from damage. It lasted for about a week before going down again. I would come back up after a week or two for a few days and then go down again. From there it only got worse. The solar controller shut down the repeater for the majority of winter. Low voltage and cold temperatures resulted in a frozen battery sometime between December and February. Once frozen the voltage dropped to near zero and the solar controller shut down completely. My repeater site is inaccessible once winter sets in due to snow level and steep grades. This spring I changed a few things. Keep in mind all my components need to be hiked up to about 2400 feet by hand. The components had to fit in or attach to a backpack or two. POWER GENERATION: This spring I added a 50 watt panel. This brought up the solar power to 80 watts total. The 80 watts of panels should generate enough solar energy on a 4 hour cloudy day to replace the 2.2-ish amps that the RT97 uses while in stand-by for 24 hours. I based this on monitoring the output of the panels on an overcast day this summer. I waited until the sun's elevation (as informed by a smartphone app) matched that it in the winter and saw the battery being charged at a rate of about 800 milliamps. 4 hours at 800 is 3.2 amps. That is 1 extra amp...in theory. POWER STORAGE: I upgraded to a 35 amp hour battery and put it underground by over a foot. Just being a foot underground shields the battery from the extreme highs and lows. At that depth theory says it should be at the avg daily temperature. If this setup works through the winter I am relocating the repeater to an even more remote location and will try to get the battery further down. Being underground also has the benefit of keeping the battery cool in the summer, which in theory, should prolong it's life. This 35 amp hour battery chould, in theory, keep the repeater running in stand-by mode for about 13 days or it could support about 14 hours of non-stop transmission in the winter with ZERO solar input. This factors in a 20% reduction in capacity due to cold temperatures. With these two upgrades the battery should really never be run low unless we have significant activity on the repeater without any days of decent solar generation. The larger battery helps store "extra" power from the sunny days and/or the additional hours of overcast days before/after winter solstice. This keeps the battery at a higher level of charge. Being kept at high charger levels and buried underground protect it through the colds snaps. Since I implemented the changes the repeater has been running 24/7. The past several weeks have been COLD here. The avg daily temperature as been between -5 and 5 degrees fahrenheit. Lows have been down below -20 degrees. For the past two weeks I have connected into the myGMRS national net for about 4 hours on Sundays. This has resulted in about 3 to 4 hours worth of transmission time each Sunday on the repeater as people talk across the nation. So far the battery appears to be doing fine as the repeater has not gone down. Hours of sunlight will continue to decrease through December at which point it will start picking up again. The skies will also start to be clear of clouds more often as we push past mid winter. So for me, it looks like 80 watts of solar power and a 35 amp hour battery are needed but again that is due to cold winter conditions with low sun levels. I don't know where you are but if you are in the lower 48 I would say the system could be more like my first attempt, 30 watts solar and a 9 amp hour battery and I would bet a 50 watt solar and 14 amp hour battery would give some extra head room. I have a few other posts up detailing my experiences with the RT97. If you register you can browse them. Solar Panel: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Efficiency-Charging-Applications/dp/B07GTH79JP/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2OBPM6JH5RIF2&keywords=50%2Bwatt%2Bsolar%2Bpanel%2Brenogy&qid=1637621917&sprefix=50%2Bwatts%2Bsolar%2Bpanel%2Breno%2Caps%2C318&sr=8-4&th=1 Solar Controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q79TC2L?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-ypp-ro-model_ypp_ro_model_k0_1_10&crid=LSOHLRTW8QW2&sprefix=10+amp+sol Battery: https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/slaa12=35c Battery-S-12330.pdf