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I picked up a Wouxun KG-UV980P, like new in box, on ebay, and thought I'd give some of my impressions now that I've used it a few days. The KG-UV980P is a quad band amateur radio, featuring 10m, 6m, 2m, and 70cm bands. It will also receive in the CB range, airband, and with proper CHIRP configuration, MURS, Marine VHF, and GMRS. The KG-UV980P is the amateur radio version of the well known (in these circles) KG-1000G GMRS radio. The KG-UV980P will transmit with 10w in the 10m and 6m bands. And it is advertised as 50w in the 2m band VHF band, and 40w in the 70cm UHF band. In testing with a dummy load, my unit comes in at a little over 10w in the 10m and 6m bands, about 46w in the 2m VHF band, and around 43-45w in the 70cm UHF band. So its marketing may be slightly overstating the VHF power, and understating the UHF power. However, it doesn't matter. For practical purposes, it's an ample mobile and base station radio in the UHF and 2m VHF bands. First obvious question: Will it work for me, a person reading posts on a GMRS website? And the answer is that through some simple configuration adjustments of the band ranges in CHIRP, yes, this will work for you. You might also ask if it will work for those people who prefer more of a Smokey and the Bandit radio band, the answer is sort of, with caveats. And some might ask if it will work for them on a band that has five VHF channels numbered 1-3,Green,Blue. The answer is somewhat, with a caveat. The caveats: On the smokey and the bandit band the radio can listen in AM mode, but I think only transmit in FM, and would need to set the power to L or M. But at "M" you're only putting out about 2.6w in the 11m band, whereas this band is FCC restricted to 4w maximum for AM and FM transmission, so you come up a little short. On the other hand, at "H" power, you're way over the limit, at 10w, so don't do that. In other words, if you're buying this for the Superbowl band, it's not ideal; only FM, and wrong power levels. As for the 5-channel VHF band starting with the letter M, there is no power setting that brings you down to compliance, as the lowest setting is a little over 5w in the 144+ VHF band, and the M band is limited to 2w. So if you're buying this for the M band you're making a mistake; it cannot meet the technical limitations required for that band. The final caveat is this radio is an amateur radio, not type approved for bands that require type approved equipment. If you have your amateur license, it's useful. If not, radios specific to your license make more sense. About our on-topic band: Low power will comply with the technical restrictions of channels 1-7 -- narrow band or wide. Medium and High power will comply with the technical restrictions of channels 15-22 and the repeater inputs -- narrow band or wide. The radio's lowest power setting in UHF is about 5w, and it's a mobile radio, so, like all mobile radios, it will not meet the restrictions for channels 8-14, which must transmit below a half watt. The radio: it's two in one. This radio has two radios inside. It has two volume knobs. Its display has a left side and a right side, each of which corresponds to one of the radios. It literally can play both sides at the same time. It can function as a full-duplex repeater, and as a full-duplex cross-band repeater. It can receive and transmit at the same time, in repeater mode. Some radios have a left and right side, but only one radio on the inside. Those radios achieve this trick by rapidly shifting the one internal radio to listen on the channel set on the left, and then on the channel set on the right. This is how the RA87 works. This is how the UV-5G or UV-5G Plus work. But the Wouxun KG-UV980P doesn't need such a trick; it has two transceivers in it. This is a really nice feature for some people. The mic: It's well balanced, and weighted. My RA87 mic feels like it's mostly air -- like a hollow chocolate bunny. The KG-UV980P mic feels like a MaBell desk phone from the 80s. It feels nice. Its keypad works well, and has all the features you would want on it (better so than the faceplate even). There is a speaker in the mic handset, and there are two speakers on the base unit. There is a volume control on the mic, a monitor button, menu button, band selection, direct frequency input, and a lot more. It's a good mic, and from what people who have heard my voice over this radio say, it sounds awesome. The speakers: With a speaker in the mic, and two speakers on the base unit, it sounds good and offers nice options for listening. There are also two external speaker outputs. Remember, it has two radios in it. And this is why. I've used the radio indoors, and in my super quiet 2014 F150. In those environments, the speakers are plenty loud. I have not tried it out in my old Bronco with a 5.8L v8, 3" exhaust, every rattle known to man, and a thin shell of a roof. I suspect that just like my RA87, which is mounted in the Bronco, its speaker will be almost adequate unless I'm at highway speeds. However, the fact that it has a mic speaker may help in noisy environments. The faceplate: The radio's faceplate is removable, and can be mounted separately from the base unit. It comes with a short connector for mounting the face plate on the base unit, and it comes with a long connecting cord, as well as a dash mount to allow the faceplate to be located a few feet away from the base unit. CHIRP: This unit can be programmed with Wouxun's kooky Windows software, or it can be programmed very easily from CHIRP. You will need to purchase a data cable, as it doesn't come with one. The cable is not expensive. With CHIRP you can program its 999 channels, set the band limits, set many other options, and even allocate channels to ten different scan groups, of user-defined size. This allows you to set it to scan only 2m repeaters, or only GMRS, or whatever other scan groups you can imagine that fall within its band capabilities. On my Linux laptop, the cable required no additional drivers; just download and install CHIRP, which I already had, plug in the cable, download the code plug from the radio, modify it, and upload it back to the radio. Modes: The "left side" radio supports AM and FM. The "right side" is FM only. Despite supporting 10m, it doesn't have SSB. It also doesn't have any digital modes. Transmit bands: 10m(&11m), 6m, 2m(+...), 70cm(65cm). Receive bands: 11m, 10m, 6m, VHF from 144-179, UHF from 420-470, plus airband (123), and 33cm. Heat: I don't talk nearly as much as I type, so I haven't really gotten it hot. It has a fan, and the fan can be set to always on, on while keyed up, or on when it reaches a certain temperature or is keyed up. Heat dissipation doesn't seem to be a problem. I keyed it up for 90 seconds into a 50w dummy load at high power, and it got warm enough to feel the warmth, but not hot. Nevertheless, dash-mounting the radio and then rag chewing in southern Arizona may not be a great plan. If you're going to dash mount it, dash mount the faceplate, and put the base unit somewhere shady in the vehicle, with sufficient ventilation. Programming: The menu is not too difficult to understand, but it's sure easier using CHIRP to get the radio configured, and then to just rely on the menu system for a little tweaking here and there. That goes for programming channels, too. Just do it in CHIRP, upload, done. Overall quality impressions: The radio is hefty, solid, has nice sound, close-enough power, good venting, great features, and great mounting options. Antenna choices: The closest I have to an antenna that will cover this radio's capabilities is a Comet CA2X4SR-NMO. I don't have a General class license, so I don't spend time in the 10m band. And nobody uses 6m in my area, from what I can tell. The CA2X4SR-NMO covers the 2m, 70cm, and closely adjacent bands nicely, so that's what I use. Odds and ends: Independently configurable Tx and Rx tones, compander, over-temp detection, high/low power input detection, scan groups, CTCSS and DCS scanning/detection, and very important to some, a roger beep. Very important to others, the roger beep can be disabled. DTMF, call groups, lots of features you'll never use. Should you consider this radio? Well, it depends. It's not cheap, at about $380-$400. There are far cheaper ham radios out there, and far cheaper GMRS radios. You might even find less expensive quad-band radios. But the build quality and sound quality are pretty darn good. If you are only GMRS licensed, get the KG-1000G Plus. It's the same radio but type approved for, and configured for GMRS. You'll be very happy with that radio. If you're a CB person, no, get a proper CB because it will have the appropriate power levels available, and will be type approved. If you're a MURS person, no, get the KG-1000M radio (which is serious overkill -- so really get an inexpensive MURS radio). If you're an amateur who operates in the SSB portions of the 10m band, get a proper HF radio so you can also enjoy 12m, 15m, 17m, 20m, and 40m. But if you're like me -- rather addicted to nice equipment, enjoying both amateur and GMRS, needing flexible installation options, and appreciating the features this radio offers, it's a pretty decent choice.

Thanks for this! I am sure a lot of people considering one of these will find it helpful.

Thank you for taking the time to do a review. I'm sure it will be helpful for those considering the KG-U980P I have only used Wouxun GMRS certified mobile radios and they work well and are easy to program. I do have the quad band KG-Q10H hand held that covers 2m, 1.25m, 70cm, 6m out of the box. It is unlock able to work on MURS and GMRS. It works well and is the hand held I use most.

NO, it means Normal, as opposed to inverted which would be "i" "code" and "tone" are the same thing, but you are probably looking in the CTCSS section.. Check the DTC/DCS section of the chart to find 053 It's on the chart (probably) but if not, you do not need it.. the RECEIVE tone is 100% optional, so forget about it for now. The TX (Transmit) tone is the only one you really need to care about These are very nice, easy to use GMRS radios, although they are limited in what they can do (like most Midland radios), but having actually used them, I can confirm that they are good radios that perform 100% as well as any other GMRS radio. And, just like all GMRS radios they are 100% compatible with all other GMRS radios, FRS radios, and even the Motorola XTL5000 radios in both of my Jeeps and my handheld Motorola XTS5000 radios. Anyone here claiming otherwise has 1) never used or tested one, and 2) is just trying to get attention to make up for the attention that their mother never gave them... Those people should be ignored.

I'm looking for an antenna that is pretty much waterproof as it will be submerged at times. Possibly a Laird Phantom antenna will work? The surface area and curvature of the roof should give ample ground plane and have an optimal takeoff angle. It will need to withstand impacts from underwater obstacles. When on land, grounding shouldn't be an issue as there will be four grounding points, plus one auxiliary ground.

Depends on the coverage area of both repeaters. If they overlap, you will have interference when both are transmitting at the same time. Having different squelch tones is not the same thing as having different frequencies. My suggestion - Set the second repeater at a different frequency to avoid potential problems.

Retevis has updated the page numbers so that (reference to missing page 36) is now page number 16. Please see this update /visit their site to download the PDF for the latest revisions. Best Regards!

Gmrs 460mhz antennas don’t need to be grounded however most will be ground plane antennas. And in this case no good ground plane exists. A mag mount won’t work and it’s going to be hard to get access under the roof for an nmo mount. You’re gonna have to go with a no ground plane and an articulating lip mount. A Rear fender might be the best spot.

Part of the problem with aluminum wiring in homes was an issue with dissimilar metals and how they expand and contract at different temperatures. Special outlets were used with aluminum screws but if the wrong outlet was used which typicaly had brass srews or copper wires joined with the aluminum and a joint compound (antioxidant, aka Noalox) wasn't used then arcing and oxidation would occur and it's all down hill once the arcing starts. Later people started using stab style connections on new outlets and these are a recipe for disaster. Larger feeders isn't an issue when wire is prepared properly and isn't as prone to outside movement like an outlet in a home that gets plugged into and out of constantly or your DIY people installing things incorrectly. Back in the day electricians would put noalox into wire nuts and use this for splicing. Then some manufacture saw this and made wire nuts with the compound pre installed and got UL listing and a patent. Damn why didn't I do that moment . More info than anyone wanted I'm sure. Anyway it does not hurt to put a thin layer of Noalox when connecting aluminum to another metal. You don't need a lot.

Wouxun in the title...seems to be a trigger for him, was guaranteed a negative response from him.

Stop being such a looser. I doubt you even read it.

You do not need a diplexer or dual antennas on radios that have only one antenna connection and have cross band repeat functions. I use cross band repeat quite often on dual band radios. Just set Side A to the 2M frequency, usually a repeater, and then set Side B to a 70cm frequency that you want to use on your HT. Then go into the radio's menu and turn cross band repeat on.

Exactly this ^^^ The info was always there, it was just the reference to pages was incorrect in quite a few places if not all. I would just use a search on key words in the PDF to find relevant info to what I was looking for. I keep a PDF of all my manuals to reference and just replaced this one with the updated version. Shoutout to @dosw for passing along info of updated version.

Single. So if you are going to crossband with it I imagine you would feed an inexpensive diplexer. I don't know how successful crossband repeater mode would be with a single dual band antenna. Seems like that would be rather hard to test without a posse of people who can hit the repeater and listen while you tinker with settings. Another thing to mention: I'm not sure if this is standard, but the power cable on mine came with Anderson connectors on the end. It could be the previous owner installed them. But fortunately my PSU has an Anderson port, and I've installed one under the hood in my truck, as well.

Nice review, entertaining and informative. I apologize if I missed it (and I did go back and reread it), but does it have a single SO239 or one for each transceiver?

Download the PDF from online. The manual has been updated. Your version was an early translation that was missing pages. The current PDF version online (I think on the Retevis website) has all the pages.

Community Note / Readers Added Context: To identify someone based on their callsign takes 10 seconds and can be done by anyone in the world with access to the internet. To identify someone based on their license plate number in most states takes a lot of work/knowing the right people/filling out the right forms/paying a lot of monies, IF it is even legal to do so in your state.

You will still get some interference from the other repeater in overlap areas due to the phasing of the signals. Overall, it will work with the same frequency/tones.

Yea, i have as well.. Water and moisture surelty contribute to the corrosion factor. About 10 years ago i restored a 1970 Yamaha 250 Enduro Motorcycle. It sat in my dads back yard for over 30 years. Many of the steel bolt used for the aluminum casing were seized with some destroying the threaded casing. The bolts that were steel to steel cam out with ease.

Once upon a time aluminum was used for house wiring but there were fires in some places. It’s a little trickier to work with aluminum because aluminum oxidizes very quickly and aluminum oxide is a pretty good insulator. We still use aluminum for utility conductors but with quite a bit of extra training to do it right when joining copper and aluminum. Gil @WRUU653 would be much more likely to understand the process than me. But that’s at DC and and 60 hz. RF travels through molecular thin oxide layers pretty well and I agree with you that stainless steel and aluminum don’t appear to bother Comet.

If the tones are the same, both repeaters would come up and 'repeat' your transmission at the same time. No loop could be created. If you set it to different tones, then the only issue to watch for is mistakenly causing interference. The users of each repeater would probably need to just transmitting a tone, but not using tone squelch. This way they can tell if the frequency is in use. Either that or they would need to 'monitor before transmit' if they have a monitor button on their radio.

The fan appears to be a rather standard-sized commodity PCM fan. You could probably replace or upgrade it with one from Amazon. With the TDR function on the 'C' key you can pretty quickly switch off the second band, but you're right, automatic muting as an option would be nice.

I've had this radio for about 2 years and it's a rock solid performer. Lots of compliments on how I sound from it. Functions very well, puts out full advertised wattage. Easily unlocked for full TX range to match the RX range (murs,marine vhf, gmrs,CB and more) on it using chirp. I've had zero issues with this radio and it gets used quite a bit. Yeah the 10m band is kinda useless without sideband unless your doing CB on it. Very nice radio and for what it does, it's pretty cheap compared to the mainstream HAM mobiles. My only complaint with it is the fan tends to make noise in cold weather. So you get in your truck and it's 10 degrees, the fan makes a bunch of racquet until the vehicle or radio warms up. The KG-1000G's do the same thing. The fan needs a redesign or different bearings or something. But it's never prevented it from working. The noise is short lived. That and I wish there was a setting like the 935H added over the UV8H to mute the secondary area while TX'ing on the main area.

Right, and that's what I did. It was a little harder than I would have preferred because the masthead doesn't provide its own good ground plane, the forestay, backstay, and upper shrouds can actually influence the apparent ground plane in weird ways, too. A mobile antenna such as the Comet CA2X4SR would have been broad-band enough, but not compatible with the wonky ground plane 30 feet up the mast. I ended up with a base-station broad band dual-band antenna that provided acceptable SWR from 2m through GMRS, including Marine VHF. I don't remember the model I went with, but at this point it works nicely. I prefer keeping a dedicated Marine VHF radio, as they offer marine-specific features not found in amateur radios. So that rig will always be a Marine VHF / GMRS dual radio setup.

I wasn’t thinking about cross banding as much as having a dedicated antenna connection for the 10 meter antenna.

You're absolutely correct - UNLESS you're one of THOSE PEOPLE silly enough to have personalized plates with their hams call on it...then once again, 10 seconds is all it takes.

Going back to the original post. While it's true that using you call sign does in fact identify you, so do your license plates. And while I don't believe that most conversations are going to open you up to a situation that could be either dangerous or result in being robbed while you aren't home, a bit of operational security is always a good idea. Things like not discussing a vacation trip you are PLANNING to take with others prior to your departure and return. I would never tell anyone over the air that I was going on vacation for any amount of time, unless I am planning on staying home. I don't discuss any departure or arrival times for even going to work. Not that I don't trust the people I talk to on the radio, but I am NOT just talking to them. Anyone with a radio or scanner can hear what's being said, and can act on that information. I do have a tendency to discuss the security camera's at the house, and the fact that there are multiple DVR's and I get alerts on my phone when a camera is tripped due to motion. I don't discuss actual camera locations, overlaps of coverage or weaknesses. Any discussions are typically about adding additional camera's. Which is a deterrent alone. But 'opsec' which is operational security said in a real cool way, is really nothing more than sitting and considering what you can and can't say / advertise about your day to day life. And the dumb stuff like getting the mail and newspaper delivery stopped when out of town falls into that opsec stuff. And it's a good idea to have that conversation with your wife and kids. We can't block anyone and everyone from knowing our vacations and travel plans. The work place makes it really hard to keep all that quiet. The bosses will want to know what's happening, and while you can avoid saying much, saying too little can be detrimental as well. And telling them outright that you aren't going to discuss your travel plans will only put them on edge. Mostly because it's not 'normal' to not brag about taking a cruise or going to Disney or similar far away attraction. But don't concern yourself with the idea that criminals are sitting around a GMRS radio waiting on someone to announce they are going away on vacation to go rob their house.

I Called buytwowayradios.com about a few revision ideas, and they said a software or firmware update wasn't likely.

Ok, that's what I thought. I misunderstood. Thank you.

No, if you program your radio with TSQL, you won’t hear anyone else unless they are transmitting using the RX tone or code you have programmed. Anyone listening using Tone will hear your transmissions. Squelch mode only affects your own radio reception.

I Failed as soon as I saw it !

But then I wouldn't get to watch my pitbull bite their leg off on my surveillance cameras.

Stainless steel and aluminum won't interact as much as carbon steel and aluminum will. Though you do take the chance of galvanization anytime you mix any type of steel and aluminum. I use to hate working on vehicles with aluminum rims when previous owners/repair shops would not use anti-seize on the rims. The aluminum rims would seize to the steel if one did not rotate tires on a regular basis.

Welcome Tim! Jeffrey Davis, WSDV406 here, in Hermitage. The Gallatin Repeater at 650 is by far the most active that I hear, in the area I'm able to monitor at least. Other than that, Brentwood 600 and Brentwood Grasslands (also at 650) are the next most active for me. I can't currently reach a lot of yall's great repeaters further south with my current setup. Looking forward to reaching you soon though. Welcome to the group brotha. Looking forward to making contact with ya

Hello, Tim Roper WRMN250 in Fairview. I run a Retevis RT95 on a Comet GP-3. I’ve been checking into nets on the Gallatin repeater, but am looking forward to this club and learning which repeaters y’all use.

I guarantee that dude has never seen real boobies in his entire life...

Oh please people, just relax! Let them give it to us and then we worry about what we do. I am sorry, may be I am the only one with the body of an adult (a sexy one, if you must know, ), but the wonder of a child. They haven’t given them to us and I am already thinking about all the possibilities. Like a child about to get a new toy. Even though, I am sure that the FCC in their infinite wisdom will ruin it but coming up with some crazy restrictive regulations. Our government doesn’t like it when we have too much fun and freedom. Oh well, sometime is better than nothing.

Wow. Thats a load of useless info.