BoxCar

It won't work though. The transmitter will interfere with the receiver as they are both on the same frequency. The site would need to be a store-and-forward configuration to use a single frequency. Simplex, by definition means a single frequency is used for both transmit and receive between two stations alternating transmissions.

The 10 AH LiFePo4 battery will run the radio for several hours with 80% of the time listening. It could stretch up to 24 hours depending on how much time is spent transmitting. A better choice for a battery is this one from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/XZNY-LiFePO4-Rechargeable-Suitable-Emergency/dp/B09QPX38GG/ref=sr_1_12?crid=PZ83AN1KXVYM&keywords=16ah%2Bbattery&qid=1697761072&s=electronics&sprefix=16ah%2Celectronics%2C145&sr=1-12&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840&th=1. It has twice the capacity at about 2/3rds the cost of the Dakota battery you chose. The Woxun radio you like is out of stock and a better choice (IMO) is the Radioddity DB-25G with slightly more power but many more empty channels to store repeater configurations in. The complete radio package from Amazon is $210 including antenna and mag mount. Add a lithium charger https://www.expertpower.us/products/epc125-5a and you are set. The only thing missing are the connectors for the battery to the radio. You'll need 2 1/4 inch quick disconnect spade connectors crimped to the radio's power cable.

A lot of fun and wierdness.

A better radio choice is the DB-25G (Radioddity DB25-G GMRS Mobile Radio | 25W | Quad Watch | UHF VHF Scann) and for portable power, a battery box with a LifeO4 battery is much better. The radio draws about 8 amps while transmitting so a 1- 16 AH battery for less than $60 is a better choice. You can put in a box, like the Apache 3800 (3800 Weatherproof Protective Case, Large, Black (harborfreight.com)) and a cigarette socket (Amazon.com: CERRXIAN 12V/24V Fixed Thread Cigarette Lighter Socket Extension Cable,20A 13AWG Waterproof Cigarette Lighter Female Socket Replacement Cable-0.3m/1ft : Automotive) sets you back about $120.00. You'll need to put connectors on the cable to connect to the battery, but the socket can be used to both power the radio as well as charge the battery. All total, including radio is around $250 without the antenna.

Try calling any of the commercial radio shops. There are several in the DFW Metroplex.

Too mean for them?

you can do that search on the fcc website ULS.

I have no problems with fan noise as the unit never warms to where the fan is needed. Mine sit on a metal rack with free space on all sides.

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Converter-Transformer/dp/B08LDC41B6/ref=d_pd_sbs_sccl_4_30/135-1923186-9436811?pd_rd_w=Wslc0&content-id=amzn1.sym.7a9b9953-4675-430a-a4f6-ea3f74308c2f&pf_rd_p=7a9b9953-4675-430a-a4f6-ea3f74308c2f&pf_rd_r=60MTN08G2YW0XDCP4PKR&pd_rd_wg=EISxf&pd_rd_r=93bfd9e3-29a5-4b73-af18-62ffd1028969&pd_rd_i=B08LDC41B6&th=1 I have two for my ham radios.

https://thewireman.com/product/1175-uhf-female-n-male/ https://thewireman.com/product/50ft-rg8x-mini-low-loss-pl259-installed/ You can't do much better.

A Yeasu FT-4XR will set you back about $100 and the unlock is done by entering a code through the front panel.

You may be better off with a simple dipole. A 1/4 wave will have the vertical radiator about 19" long. A panel mount SO239 connector can be had for less than $5 and the needed wire can be found in the big box hardware stores. https://www.americanradiosupply.com/so-239-uhf-female-4-hole-panel-mount-coaxial-connector/

The way field days are run, as a contest, I refuse to participate other than seeing if I can make a contact. I don't submit my logs either.

Their end.

Log into the FCC web site and query your FRN on the Universal License System (ULS) to see if your call sign has been issued. The only reason it should take more than 72 hours is the VEC mailed your results to the FCC rather than filing electronically.

The 462 number goes in receive, the 467 in transmit. The DPL number is the digital equivalent of a CTCSS frequency and would go in the slot for digital code transmit. Don't worry about the split, you have that between the transmit and receive.

As you state you have the most problem with the electronics questions in the ham tests have you considered taking an electronics course at your local community college? An electronics course would teach you about AC and DC current, resistance, inductance and capacitance and how they affect both voltage and current. The course would also teach Ohm's Law and how to calculate resistance, voltage or current flow through a circuit or component. You would learn about reactance and its effect on AC circuits, how transformers work along with basic digital circuits and digital logic. Three basic formulas are needed for the Technician test, Ohm's Law (E=IR), power (P=IE or P=I squared R) and wavelength (L=V/F) or velocity divided by frequency. Other than memorizing the electronic symbols for a transistor, diode, transformer, resistor, and capacitor, that's pretty much it on the electronics side.

No, NO, NO. They are ham bands not Hamas bands.

The ID only needs to be sent when the transmitter has been keyed. If the transmitter is sitting on standby and hasn't been keyed in over 15 minutes its not necessary for an ID to be broadcast.

Not legally. The FCC regulations generally prohibit different services from cross connecting.

Please think this through. You can't contain radio waves to a single country. There are enough issues with frequency assignments along the Canadian border (Lines a & C) and with Mexico in the south. Add into the mix the digital modes which can link to the Internet and you have another issue. The Tech test is not that difficult and for a person with some basic knowledge of electronics and radio it only takes an hour or so of reading through the rules to gain enough knowledge to pass the test. The training course from the ARRL is designed for those who have no knowledge of electronics or radio other than where the power and volume controls are located. There are enough people on both sides of the fence advocating for both higher and lower requirements to keep this argument going aover possible changes to "improve" the service or its attractiveness to new users.

Is the unit still supported by the manufacturer and/or are parts readily available? What's needed to program the unit and does the software on your computer.

Antenna analyzers like the Rig Expert won't do a good job on measuring the SWR on a HH antenna. You can get a better idea of its performance using a Vector Analyzer but, like Marc says, it takes both training and understanding of how antennas work.

I have the radio and it's pretty good for an entry level unit. I'm not impressed with the menu system on the radio, but the RT system software makes programming it fairly easy. I built mine into a small go-box with a 15 AH lifep04 battery. My primary V/UHF is the ICOM ID-5100. The display is much better.

That's a boat load of questions and right on point. As far as antennas, height is king. The higher the antenna, the further it is to the radio's horizon and coverage area. The type of antenna is dependent on what you are attempting to accomplish, the height above the average ground level in your desired coverage area and what the area contains as ground cover. Ground cover includes buildings so include them in your calculations. As for building out a repeater, go to repeaterbuilder.com for examples of needed materials and issues with the planning and construction of a repeater. For your power supply needs, add the required amperage needed for the transmitter running at its highest power and the amps needed for the receiver (and yes - you do need both) then add 20% for overhead. The questions you haven't asked will be about gain and losses in your transmission line and antenna. Antenna gain is reported using 2 scales, dBi and dBm. The one that counts is dBm as this is measured using real power rather than theoretical Dbm is dBi minus 2.l or a difference of about 40%. A 3 dB difference is either 50% less or twice the input power measured at the antenna input depending on if it is loss or gain measured in watts. For the best estimate of how your system operates, either as a base station or repeater requires a VNA or Vector Network Analyzer as it's the best device to measure transmission loss in your feedline and to tune your antenna to resonance. Yes, all antennas require tuning for optimal performance. Good luck on your dream.