kidphc
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Posts posted by kidphc
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Normally, you do need 2sdrs. One for control and 1 for scan.Haven't tried Unitrunker. I thought you had to have at least two SDR receivers to track trunked systems. I just have one at the moment (DX Patrol) but looking at getting different as a 2nd SDR receiver - looking at a RSPduo but find it hard to stomach the $300.
Always thought the duo was built for contesters. Kinda gave it a glancing thought for trunking work. But then you are getting into sds100/g5 prices.
Frugal radio on YouTube setup trunk tracking and scanning with 1 rtlsdr (cheapest option I know of).
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Have you unitrunker? How is it? I recommended giving it a try to someone whom was trying to listen to p25 and dmr trunked systems.SDR Sharp with Simple APCO (p25) and Simple DMR plugins most of the time. Simple point and click the waterfall for analog and most unencrypted DMR and P25 traffic. Kinda like HDSDR for the limited HF I listen too though. I'm a Windows guy and currently have HDSDR, SDR Console, SDR Sharp, SDR Uno, SDR++, SDR Trunk and SDR Angel installed. Spektrum is a pretty cool as well, makes your SDR dongle into a quick down and dirty spectrum analyzer and actually works pretty good.
Out of of a lot of the software that was kinda free it had something that had something like a GUI vs dsd+ (I think that is what it was called).
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Sounds like you will be upgrading the jeep again. Maybe the new one with the fully floating rear axle and a diesel.. lol
I thought about buying an inexpensive used pop-up travel trailer. Depending on how the year goes, that may happen next year.
I've been eyeballing a motorized cart with big inflatable tires and a 500 lb capacity. It costs about $1,000. Maybe as we closer to the end of the year.
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- SteveShannon and marcspaz
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Actually, Marc ever thought about a small trailer with a motorized trailer dolly?
Only since you do the events so often?
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Looks like it isn't trailer accessible. Do you guys lug out all the gear in a wagon or pack mule like a bernard?
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I have had several head mri's. Couldn't tell you what they sound like. Was wearing ear plugs, still defeaning. When people ask I don't know, like putting you head next to a jet engine with rocks in it?!As I approached a hospital today, GMRS 17 started buzzing loudly, in some pretty distinct sequences. This started about 3/4ths mile from the hospital. I was on my way to an MRI appointment. And when in the machine I quickly realized what I had been hearing on GMRS 17 was the MRI sequences. For anyone who has had one, the sequences are unmistakable and probably unforgettable.
I just found it interesting that the interference started so far away from the hospital, and was so reliably attenuated to channel 17. I didn't hear it on 16 or 18. And the sound my radio made was just like what I was hearing inside the apparatus. And it was an intense level of interference.
I don't have a question, just reflecting on the situation.
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Try unplugging the mic and make sure it seats properly. I have had problems with rj11 and rj45 connectors with boots. Where they aren't fully seated and the mic acts funny.
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You could build a low power repeater. Problem will be you will need an indoor and outdoor antenna. When the repeater transmitting. You will lose half of the power to each antenna. Plus a mess of other things that could go wrong.
I had looked at passive repeaters/antennas. But the usefulness of them are low. In your case. I would investigate this an option. Don't expect much, but to spend money. You could try to build a dipole indoors connected to a yagi outside pointed at the area of intrest. But again passive repeaters aren't in high use for a reason.
Another option is to get a kg100g, or any radio with a Bluetooth option. With a Bluetooth mic and connect the kg to an external antenna.
For hams, I have contemplated buy a uv578 with Bluetooth head control mic. But always just walk over to one of my digital radios and use the hotspot. Haven't seen a gmrs (tuned) hotspot yet. Guess that will be on a to do list.
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Using sdr console. It's a windows install.
Ham centric. Little things like the pre-installed save for ham bands. The visual marker for saves etc.
Lots of people like replay software. I didn't personally.
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Most can't be passed through without leaving a big hole and requiring a grommet to seal said hole.
I have used a coax that had an fme connector (barely larger then rg58). Came with a fme to pl259 adapter. It was pretty slick if you ask me.
Most of the time you need to snip off the connector to get it through tight spaces and crimp on a new connector.
Contact the vendor to see if it can be disassembled for installation with instructions.
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I had a fender mount that was introducing a lot of rfi in the middle of the gmrs band. 2m/70cm cap modded radio.I'd also be curious about antenna location, and what might be close by.
I get a ton of RFI from some Amazon special LED headlight bulbs, to the point of 2m being near unusable. It wasn't an issue previously, with the antenna on the roof, but once I moved the antenna to the front fender, major RFI.
I've read of using copper scouring pads to shield noisy LED/HID ballasts, but keep forgetting to track some down to test with.
Installed a dedicated gmrs radio and antenna (back 1/3rd of roof). Noise was manageable with just a hair of squelch.
Turns out the rfi noise was caused by a failing brake accumulator, and hydraulic leak into the abs computer. My generation landcruiser and some 4runners use a electric motor to build brake pedal pressure. God awful expensive part. The rfi went away when the brake module was replaced.
When I find leds that make rfi noise that is noticeable, in the trash it goes. It's the driver, lots of leds you can't replace the driver.
A neighbor of mine has decent inverters on his solar panels. Only really made noise when at peek power, sunlight going full tilt on the panels. My noise floor goes from s3 to almost s6-s8, usually not home at those times. His plasma screen was terrible also, thank God he upgrade the tv. A lot of rfi comes from cheap electronics and poor shielding, sigh.
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Rfi, or installation issue from the electronics running on the car.
Seems like the shielding is kinda crappy on alot of Chrysler products. Turn off the car and rfi is gone. Some times the delayed accesories can still introduce noise till about 5minutes after shut off.
Your coax can act as a big antenna, routing can make a difference. Generally, a good practice in mobile installs is to keep the coax ad far away from power and canbus lines as possible. Cross those lines if possible at 90 degrees with the coax.
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Try the 4505. The 5/8 over 5/8, other then the size it is a very, very impressive antenna. Did I say impressive.On my truck I have a Laird BB4503 (NMO) on a mag mount. It is a 5/8λ ground plane required. Each time I use it I am impressed with its quality and performance. It does need to be cut for proper tuning, and they provide the center frequency and length, so you're not guessing. I'm only running 14-18w into it, and for repeaters with a 250-300' AGL receive antenna I can hold the repeater, and talk out to 50 miles or so, as long as I have a good line-of-sight.
For the car I am considering getting the Laird BB4502 (1/2λ) which is a no-ground plane required, since I don't have a good mounting location. It won't perform as well as the BB4503, but should be pretty close, and probably not enough of a difference for me to notice.
Only difference between the "B" and the "BB" models is that the base is black, instead of stainless.
I am running a 4503 right now. It's not bad, just a bit more deaf than the 4505.
Crap i might be selling mine. Even uncut it was about 1.2 to 1.3 in gmrs repeater frequencies. Still have not cut the 4505 or the 4503 just really no need to.
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Personally, I am all over the place. From ¹/4, 1/2, 3/4, 5/8 over 5/8. Also using a ham base antenna in the attic.
I'll be using a diy yagi made by a local named Roland next.
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Personally, depending on location. Ie mountains and repeater availability.
Usually, 20 watts or so are nice and adequate. Most will let you trim the power back some even enough to get on the frs interants and still be close to inbounds according to some rules. Plus most are economical compared to a 50 watt model.
Most 40/50 watt radios can't turn the power down enough to play with the entire allocation. Hence some channels are blocked etc. But it is always nice to bump up the power when at the fringes of a repeater or in the woods.
With uhf and vhf. Gmrs is uhf. Focus on the antenna setup more then the radio. 15w with a properly setup 5/8 antenna gets you out further and cleaner then a 50w with unity gain antenna with no groundplane and crap coax.
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk- WRYF638, wayoverthere, WRUU653 and 2 others
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Yes, but mainly for hand helds. Btech makes one. The input voltage is usually set to 1 watt or less.
For mobiles, yes they sell amplifiers. But the radio needs to put out about the same wattage as handheld and most radios that put out more then 20watts can't be lowered enough
Normally, it is easier to get a more powerful mobile. Gmrs is already limited to 50 watts, which really is enough. Hell with a good antenna system you could get away with about 20 watts 80-90% of the time.
The question I want answered is why are you asking? -
You mean like an amplifier?
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Wiring and Accessories
- Canbus Terminator
Unlike the Motorola Canbus like on the XTL series and newer. The Harris radio wasn't self terminating. Think old fire ring/token ring networks where you had to terminate connections or the ring would fail. So we need a couple of terminators.
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Original Part# CD-014027-0001
- These were supplied with the radio when new. Most are long gone, or in a box somewhere in a radio shop.
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Substitute Part# MACDOS0010
- These were originally XG-75m, 7300m, and 5300m series radios
- About $11 a piece
- Generally, most radio setups will need 1-2, but if you add multiple heads then you may need several extras
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Microphones
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DTMF
- MC-103334-040
- MC-103334-041 Included with MAMW-NMC9C
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Standard
- MC-101616-040
- MC-101616-041 Included with MAMW0NMC72
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Noise cancelling
- MC 103334-050
- MC 103334-051 Included with MAMW-NMCSD
- Avg $20-100 depending on stock and condition
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DTMF
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Speaker and cable
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Speaker Cable
- Part # 1000005812-0001-REVB
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I plan on using my speaker from the XTL. The speaker cable is basically that 4 prong box connector that Motorola uses.
- Originally part of the installation kit.
- Avg $18-23
- Again carry over from XG-75m, 7300m, and 5300m series radios. SEE A TREND YET?
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Speaker If you have to have your speaker have Harris on it.
- Part# LS102824V10
- Avg $20 new
- Again carry over from XG-75m, 7300m, and 5300m series radios. SEE A TREND YET?
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Speaker Cable
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Canbus Cable
- Part# ca-009562-030
- Supplied with original installation kit
- I am using a new/old stock Macom cable. Again carry over from XG-75m, 7300m, and 5300m series radios. SEE A TREND YET?
- Abg $25 ebay $98 new
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Power Cable
- Part# CA-012616-001
- Unable to Find
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Used cut Pigtails About $15
- THIS Ebay seller- they will make custom cables with ignition sense
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Programming cable
- It is a Rs232 9pin Straight serial cable. I opted for an FTDI usb to rs232
- NO rib box necessary
- Rs232 female on the head and back of the radio.
- Avg $20-40
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Antenna connectors
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VHF HIgh, UHF and 7/800
- TNC female on the radio brick.
- So you will need a Male TNC to your chosen antenna connector.
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VHF Low
- BNC female on the radio brick
- Again adapter if necessary.
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GPS port...
- I am not utilizing the GPS
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From my understanding the radio will provide NMEA formatted data.
- this will be on several pins on the 44 pin serial port.
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VHF HIgh, UHF and 7/800
Reference photo of back of radio on page 18 Figure 3-2
One Portable mobile radio setup for multiple vehicles?
in General Discussion
Posted
Not really any issues but wear and tear and the cost of the installs on each vehicle.
For the battery charger issue, might want to contact midland to see if there would be an issue. Really wasn't designed for the way you want to work it.
I thought something similar using an xts5000 hand held, several XTVA units (dock for the ht) in different cars. Problem was the amplifier, it just got expensive.
It would of been cheaper to have a anytone 779/radioitty 20g in each car.
So there are several ways to skin the cat.
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