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kidphc

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Posts posted by kidphc

  1. You will need the accesory cable and connector use the remote on wire and tap into a 12v switchable powered source (car am/fm radio wire/fuse is the favorite).

    Then go into cps and configure the ignition sense under radio information/accessory configuration/ignition sense type.

    Then, when ever the ignition energizes the wire (in example above car radio). It will auto turn the radio on. Turn off the car and it should go off. Unless the remote wire is connected to a power delay accessory. Then it will turn off when the wire is not powered, usually at driver door open or some pre-configured time out.

    EDITIED to clarify things because I suck at explaining things the first time around.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk





  2. Fail!  There's no periods between the letters H - A & M!
    It's not an abbreviation...
    Sheesh!!!
    Next you'll be asking about which provision in Part 97 mandates the Roger Beep! 
    I know you are messing/joking with him.

    We should just be as informative as politely possible and encouraging as we can be. Especially, when someone is asking for help. Could turn them off, more so if they take it the wrong way.

    /rant Overall impression, I get from non-amateur radio people is that we can be condescending, know it alls that bitch too much about everything. Some of it true, especially since we do most of the self policing.

    Can't tell you how much of the public safety/lmr groups think we amateurs are a joke and don't want to invite us out for events. With our relay forms and other politics and attitudes. Then those same guys praise people like Marc, can't tell you how many times I hear " I trust Marc and his small group". Because why? They do everything possible to get the objective done, then cross the tees and dot the I's later, with minimum fuss or bs.

    We should aspire to be the best spoke person for the hobby

    /rant

    Still love your comment but I get it. Not everyone will.

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  3. You may be confusing the FRS rules which mandate that the Antenna on every HT MUST be non-removable!
    Think he is referring to the gmrs radios capable of data burst, they can not have removable antennas.

    My reasoning is that the fcc didn't allow it to limit range. Can you imagine somebody strapping an 11 element yagi. They want that type of shanigns on the amateur service.

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  4. If you can take the practice 3x and pass each time with about 85%. Your are way over ready to take the test.

    Remember, you just need to pass. No one will ever know the score.

    Study for the general and technician at the same time. They crossover informatuon for both the test is like 75%.

    If you pass the technician, they will let you test for general on the same day.


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  5. Thanks for putting that up here. I like his videos but had not seen this one. This product may be pricey but it sure is a clean install and that would be worth it to me. I have a question about the version that has two antenna mounts, is there any issue with having a ham antenna and a GMRS antenna so close to each other? 
    Yes, mobile installs are all comprimises. You want about 1/2 wave length of the longest minimal separation, if you can. But that is not always possible.

    I have about 8 feet from my 2m/70cm antenna and gmrs/70cm antenna. I noted the other night even when transmitting at 5watts on the 2m/70cm antenna (I was using 70cm fusion at the time). It was tripping out the xtl5k (gmrs/70cm) really badly. Like opening squelch on a frequency, i was scanning gmrs repeaters on the xtl5k. From my calculations, it was about 30MHz difference.

    The physical radios are some 6 feet apart. One in the glove box. The other on the third row molle panel.

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  6. I have a diplexer and a triplexer and they are both good to 500 MHz or above.  I checked The Antenna Farm's website and all the ones they carry that are VHF/UHF split (no HF or 220) go to at least 470 MHz, with most going to 540.  Cost is around $50 or so 
    Good to know. A lot of stuff just barely works for gmrs and the other frequencies.

    I will have to check again.

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  7. Take a look at this antenna. It does work well on GMRS a is a 20" length. Super-Elastic Signal Stalk — Signal Stuff
    I tested (in the amateur section of the forum) it optimized for 70cm/ gmrs. Wasn't messing with the vhf side. It worked but for gmrs/70cm it's a 3/4 wave design, so it was just a shade above 1/4 as far as transmission and reception.

    I would NOT recommend it for gmrs if that is the primary service. Might be good for vhf, as well almost look like a factory antenna.

    My recommendations doe antennas.

    1/4 gmrs/uhf for repeaters.
    5/8 over 5/8 for fringe repeater and simplex. B4505 series.
    5/8 b4503 series for mixed simplex/repeaters for those with clearance issues.
    Slim jim roll up ( toss it as high up a tree as you can) for base camping simplex/repeater work.


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  8. Thanks all for the input. Yes, good assumption on the amateur frequencies.
    I think I've narrowed my options down to these - basically optimizing for GMRS and living with whatever VHF performance I get:
    1. Find a good 1/2 wave GMRS antenna and hood mount it (symmetrical to the radio antenna) - this would actually look pretty cool on the truck.
    2. Go with the 1/4 wave antenna and roof mount it - I will have a power moonroof, but I think I can find enough room for this option. This would basically be the most stealth option but performance outside of GMRS wouldn't be great.
    Alternatively, is there a device (is it a diplexer?) that would allow me to have a hood mount 2m/70cm antenna and the GMRS roof antenna? I even toyed with the idea of a physical switch, but something automatic would be even better.
    A diplexer will not work real well, 70cm and gmrs are too close.

    With the right diplexer (most stop at 450MHz, the ones that go up to 500MHz can get expensive and sometimes difficult to find). You could use a bcn4503 (5/8th) or similar tune it to 450mhz, get most of 70cm band and all of gmrs on one antenna. Then install a separate vhf antenna.

    Generally, for dual service 70cm/gmrs the 1/4 waves work really well. They are for the most part, pretty wide banded. Watch out for some of the ghost types, because of the matching network they might not be widebanded enough.

    Any particular reason you are keep going with 1/2 vhf antennas?





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  9. You didn't mention if the vhf/uhf bands were for amateur or lmr services. So I will assume for this post you are talking about amateur vhf/uhf.

    To be honest not really many options and you have one of them. Gmrs is skewed to lmr/commercial frequencies. Amateur bands are just far enough from those bands, as you saw you end up with more comprimises.

    Part of the comprimises on he 2x4sr (not a terrible antenna) are it doesn't get the best swr for gmrs. It's a thick not forgiving antenna, this is to try and stretch the bandwidth.

    I had one mounted, where you plan on mounting. Mine was mounted to a ditch mount. The weight of the antenna shook the mount violently over any bump. So much so I went back to the 2/70b. Both the 2/70b and 2xsr, where better on the roof, on the fender mount expect about 65%-75% on the fringes of what you had on the roof. With some skewing of signals due to a pillar.

    Marc had mentioned the diamond version did better with the swr. We have a thread in the amateur section.

    Btw, current setup is a 5/8 wave on the back of the roof and the 2/70b on the fender. I am currently tossing up the idea (cheaper route) of putting up a vhf/uhf/7-800 antenna or a triplexer ($200+ for triplexer alone) with each band tuned.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk





  10. Least amount of loss, aircore hard line. Like heliax. Usually, used on repeaters. Avg $2-7 a foot.

    Most commonly used for 100ft. Probably lmr400. Acceptable cost and acceptable losses. Avg $1-4 a foot. You could also look at lmr600, but it gets to aircore levels of stiffness, which can make routing difficult.

    Keep in mind the connectors also come into play. Really high quality "n" connectors can average $25 each.

    So it's best to set the budget. Your expectations and meet in the middle or what you are comfortable with.




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  11. I looked it up earlier this year and there were something like 13 thousand more active ham licenses last year than the year before.  That doesn’t point to it going away.
    Basic testing is necessary in order to ensure that people have learned the bare minimum regulations and a small amount of the science.  Many of the most basic questions that people ask when they become involved in radio are those things that a person learns while studying to pass the Technician test.  Not only that but the questions are all publicly available. Eight year old children pass the test.  Some ham clubs even have one day cram and test days where a person goes through the material for a while and then immediately tests on it.
    The test is truly not a barrier unless a person is unwilling to put forth any effort at all.
    Our numbers have been dwindling. Mostly to our Elmer's no longer being with us. We we were always a small number what is it 1% of the global population.

    But there are certainly a lot of new hams. Always 2-3 new technicians on one local weekly club net.

    Food for thought. This snapshot was 40m. For those unaware, each vertical line is a transmission.FB_IMG_1683641662054.jpg

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  12. There are plenty of folks running around with GMRS who already don't follow the simple rules (identify transmissions, no swearing, etc.).  Can you imagine if these same folks decided to do the same on analog public service bands (telling cops and fire bogus information)?  And no, I am not an amateur radio licensee.
    We have those types. Like I say aholes and jerks in every group.

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  13. Posted from other discussion.

    If the Hams are willing to help others to become Hams, then why don't they help in doing away with the Test that is required to get a license? I can see the purpose in the test for the advance license levels but, for the entry level license, I can see that will keep people in the future from being a HAM and the hobby will eventually be nearly non-existent, maybe not tomorrow, but I feel the future will be on the horizon very soon.

    That is probably why GMRS is becoming so popular with the younger generations. I know the older Hams won't agree in doing away with the entry level license test because they had to take the test but they better think about the future of the hobby before their frequencies become less crowded with Ham hobbyists as time marches on.

    It will be interesting to know the stats on the number of people becoming Hams today as opposed yesteryear.

    Well. The are things that are essential to the technician test that really are relevant. It is a real easy test (depending on skill and background) most people test with in a month of studying the material. Crap some do it in little less then 2 weeks.

    Gmrs/frs like cbs are compartimilized/channeled. Lmr/commercial radios the license is set to the entity and not the user. Hence, why front panel programming is really limited if even avaible. Non radio people mucking with a radio isn't a good idea.

    Most ham radios we can spin the dial (vfo) to whatever frequency in or out of band as we want to a point. Depends on the radio, we get limited also to prevent inadvertant interference. Still happens on band edges. We don't just do what ever, because of interference to adjacent frequencies and band plans as well as etiquite. Don't be that guy.

    Believe or not gmrs/frs frequencies are actually stitched between lmr/commercial frequencies. Could you imagine the chaos/interference if the service wasn't channelized.

    Really about 75%-80% of the questions on this forum could almost be answered by just studying the technician material.

    It covers quite a bit of information. From rf exposure, what antenna style does what the best and its negatives. Different modes of operations as well as light legal information.

    I for one, do not want to have it go away. It's an easy test, fast and cheap. Gives some rudimentary information on a broad spectrum of radio topics. People miss understand amateur radio a bit. It is amazing the different things you can do.

    Think about this for a second. We technicians can blast away at legal limit 1500watts. Do we? Nope for the most part no. Several reasons why, but to the average person whom had no knowledge (unfortunately most license by device or no skill test) first thing they would do would be to price the cheapest ht, highest gain antenna and the cheapest most powerful amplifier to out reach and out talk everyone else.

    Crap if you are close by (30 minutes or so), I will hand you old material, help you study. If you needed the support hold your hand as you walk in to take the test.


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  14. 10 hours ago, WRKC935 said:

    Interesting..  Would like to hear a recording of what you are hearing.  Curious if you have your radio programmed narrow band on the repeater channels or not.  COmmon mistake that will cause audio issues on receive and transmit. 

    Truth is that radio is radio.  Commercial, Ham, GMRS, FRS, it's all FM modulated carrier.  It should all work about the same and sound about the same. 

     

     

    On 5/7/2023 at 12:07 AM, WRDC898 said:

    Outstanding point when hitting an IRL repeater! But, I also hear it on a local repeater where, yeah, you can tell if someone is on a mobile or HT, bit it's not that "wuan, wuan, wwwaun 9 wauuuun 7 won" I hear every day.  I think I'm just totally spoiled listening to 2m nets where the people sound like they're  sitting next to me or just crystal clear. Granted, some of these guys have thousands just into their desk mic not to mention their equipment. 

     

    2 Different services. Most of the quality ham gear starts in price, where the most expensive chinacom (not all are bad) gear ends in price. Even the beloved KG100G is a ham radio with new firmware to lock it down for GMRS. Is it a bad radio? NO, its a great to even fantastic radio. Even then there were compromises made to get it into a price point. But the target audience was different.  So you always kinda get what you pay for, more features and better components etc. 

    My fengs have always gotten the under driven, under modulated, you are readable but scratchy comments. Wonder if the mics are garbage, actually I know the answer, they are.  So not completely shocked about the comments about the UV5R.

    Wooxun to me has been a good company like Allinco and Anytone, for the most part. Crap a lot of radios now a days, seem just to be retags/reboxed/relabelled of the same 4-5 manufacturer's radios. So generally, you get similar performance across that radio style regardless of it being a bs19999ht 100 watt ht or myass200000ht.

    I get what the OP is saying. I have been spoiled by ham and lmr gear. I guess I shouldn't say spoiled but kinda had my bar of expectations high.

     

     I think some of the Harris radios the receive audio I wish was more like a Motorola. Damn, Motorola radios receive beautifully and most of the speakers have left me with no desire for improvement. Which for me says a huge amount.

  15. Before spending your money try to track down the data sheet for the switch. Many times you can find it on line. In other cases sending a friendly email off to the company's sales or tech support department might work.
    The other thing to look at is the power handling capacity of the switch. A switch you're interested in might be cheap because it won't do more than maybe a few watts.
    Yup. Kinda weary of the used or older ones for that reason.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

  16. Yea, I was searching last month for a switch that would hold up at 1200MHz. Couldn't find a single one. Well, if I remember, there is an old bird switch that is NLA, but was about $2000. I decided the project would have better results if I just went and ran individual hardlines for what I needed, and either manual switch at the base station, or physically move the coax between radios. 
    There are spdt and dpdt switches. But then you would have to do everything. They are also very expensive as you get up to shf frequencies. Guess because they are often marketed to cell providers.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

  17. Going to have a lot of polarization mismatch losses -- most all 2m/70cm (and GMRS) are vertically polarized signals (mobiles and HTs)
    The 2m/70cm yagi were for ssb with the ft991a. The x200 was for ht/repeater/ fm work again with the ft991a.

    The gmrs yagi is set for vertical
    polarization with either a xtl5000 or one of the cdm1250s I have laying around.

    Sorry for any confusion.


    Got word back from Mfj, not going to work around 500MHz.

    The ebay seller said around 450 MHz it is a vswr of 1.5 and climbs fast.

    So I guess I am running another lmr400 run. Then saving up for a 2-4 port remote switch for the other yagis, vertical and fan dipole.

    Thanks to all for entertaining this thread.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk


  18. 1 minute ago, WRUU653 said:

    It just means it transfers one source to another for a common output. 
    P.S. I like where you’re heading with this solution. ?

    Thanks I guess. lol...

    If the Ameritron 8v was rated to more the 250 Mhz. This thread would not exist. Might contact Ameritron to see what the VSWR is like 250 MHZ up from the rated 250 and 1.2. Might be the turn key reasonable priced option I was looking for.

  19. 2 minutes ago, Sshannon said:

    Right - I wouldn’t buy one without having something to go by.  

    Kinda a big worry. I contacted an Ebay seller of ip addressed wifi remote switches. 

    I asked to see if he had anything spec'ed for DC- 800Mhz or so. Keeping fingers crossed.

    I guess I was hoping for a diy kit I could modify with different relays so the losses and the cost wouldn't be obnoxious. Either case starting to lean to surplus 12vdc radial (nominal 10vdc-14vdc) coaxial switches. Then i can simply it power it from the power supply of the radio.

    Should be an costly learning affair.

  20. 2 minutes ago, Sshannon said:

    Here’s a schematic for one of the Transco transfer switches.  I like the fact that when it’s unpowered the common defaults to port one.  I would hook that to either a dummy load or ground.

    https://www.hamanuals.com/MMans/Transco Switch - Schematic.pdf

    No clue what the difference is between that and a transfer switch. Hell not 100% positive on what they mean when an ad says its a transfer switch. Just kinda figured it was a mechanical latching style switch. Might just be overthinking it. To the point, I also noted most almost all the transfer switch default to port one.

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